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Advice on buying a classic Toyota


Nate

Question

Hi guys, 

I want to buy a classic (is that the right term?) Toyota, AE100, or 110/111 , and I have a few general questions, I hope it's OK to ask here.

First off, as this is a 20-30 year old car, it's obviously going to need work/restoration - are parts generally available for these cars? I am assuming that parts for the 100/110 are somewhat available?

Also, is there a decent garage who can take the car when I buy it and do the basic mechanical work? I am not very concerned about cosmetics/appearance but want to get the important stuff such as engine, transmission, suspension carefully done. Ideally I'd like to do a basic restoration when I buy it..

Also, does anyone have an idea of the current actual price range to pay for these cars these days? 

Any tips on where to get the car inspected before buying? I am guessing the agent may not inspect as it's a very old car? (Edit: searched and I found recommendations of companies that can inspect the car before purchase, thanks)

Thank you all.

Edited by Nate
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2 hours ago, Nate said:

I saw an E110 "facelift" car with a carburettor. This was a surprise for me, I assumed the carburettor was phased out for EFI before the facelift. Maybe they switched the engine or something? Nice looking car though.

I think what you inspected was a brand new import - Japanese manufacturers kept on shipping carbureted cars for emerging markets like ours. It was probably a 2E carb engine. Many brand new imported tercels as late as 1998 are equipped with the 2E carb engine. So I wouldn't be surprised. At the same time it could be a face-lifted locally.

 

3 hours ago, Nate said:

The car sales were most fun..I went there to understand the cars (not to buy).

roughly 10 years ago I spent several months looking for a car - learnt an absolute LOT about the used car market in Sri Lanka and specially why a sale should be avoided like the plague. 

3 hours ago, Nate said:

Another thing that amazed me is how quickly some of these cars sold. I would look at a car which is falling apart, .by the end of the day someone has purchased it.

It's because of limited choice -with no imports on the horizon, people if the need arises will go for a car if it runs, has an automatic gearbox, and has the 'assurance' that it will be easily resold. The 90's cars can take a lot of abuse hence prime candidates for this kind of usage. 

My advice is to keep looking  - for that elusive 10% of good cars. also, try to go for slightly rare cars that do not have a mass appeal - for instance instead of looking for a Carina look for a Corona. 

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3 hours ago, Nate said:

I saw an E110 "facelift" car with a carburettor. This was a surprise for me, I assumed the carburettor was phased out for EFI before the facelift. Maybe they switched the engine or something? Nice looking car though.

It probably was an export variant. If the chassis code was EE110R it would have has a 1.3L 2E engine and if it was AE111R then it would have been a 1.6L 4A engine. Some were imported by Toy#ta L#nka for UN agencies (remember them getting a fleet of like 10 white sedans). However there were a lot imported from Thailand and Singapore (mostly taxi variants). Also, when it comes to the Corolla there is a lot of badge engineering going on. Like people sticking SE Saloon badges etc...hoping that they can con someone into believing that their pimped-out LX with upgraded seats from Delkanda is an original SE Limited from Japan and lovingly taken care of.

3 hours ago, Nate said:

It seems the modus operandi is to use the car 20 years with zero maintenance, then paint it nicely. That's all that's needed to sell it.

Yes...that is the general case with Corollas, Sunnies and since the late 2000s the Allion and Premio.

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Following up on this! 

I had been unable to login as I lost my password and the reset email doesn't work. Luckily I found it and I was able to login. I've been tied up with work and couldn't look at a lot of vehicles. Also I'm usually out of Colombo. I'll be going again in the end of December and if anyone has tips I'd be grateful. 

To recap my journey do far

I expanded what I'm looking for, to include these vehicles (auto transmission)

- Corolla wagon (late 90s to 2000)

- Corolla/ sprinter car ae100/110/

- Nissan wagon (90-2000+)

- Nissan fb15/n16

I am looking for

- a vehicle where parts are still available

- relatively easy to fix

 

Most of the cars I've seen have been unserviceable. I did see one or two fb15s which were functional (at least, to my untrained eye) but the prices (4m+) didn't seem reasonable. 

My plan is to take the potential vehicle to the agent, also one of the inspection companies for a checkup before buying.

A few concerns:

How do I check if the paperwork is ok? I guess look at the registration document send compare with the owners ID, check chassis/engine numbers? 

For the purchase, I would follow the instructions here? https://dmt.gov.lk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=24&Itemid=148&lang=en

Does anyone have any tips on safety/precautions in the purchase process?

I do wonder if there will be a slight drop in prices as vehicle imports are opened up ..

 

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, Nate said:

Corolla wagon (late 90s to 2000)

Be very careful. There are plenty of van variants that have gotten "converted" into wagons. But 100% conversion is not possible. So buy an actual wagon. OR buy a clean and actual van. Wagons will have the chassis code xx100G while the vans will have the chassis code xx100V. Also, vans will have leaf springs in the rear.

16 hours ago, Nate said:

Corolla/ sprinter car ae100/110/

Lot of junk out there. I would stay away from any sort of Corolla (wagon or sedan) unless a clean example falls on to my lap.

16 hours ago, Nate said:

Nissan wagon (90-2000+)

Which Nissan wagon ? a Wingroad ? Again...make sure that they are actual wagon variants and not converted van variants.

16 hours ago, Nate said:

Nissan fb15/n16

Better chances of finding a cleaner vehicle than a Corolla. Especially the N16. The typical budget conscious owners stayed away from the N16 because it had a reputation for being thirsty.

Tips:

Vehicle inspections are a must.

I believe you can still do a document check with the RMV. However, you will need the owner's consent. Also, stay way from any car with open papers. 

 

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2 hours ago, iRage said:

Be very careful. There are plenty of van variants that have gotten "converted" into wagons. But 100% conversion is not possible. So buy an actual wagon. OR buy a clean and actual van.

My bad, I meant the van version with leaf springs. That's likely what I will get, unless I can find an original wagon based on chassis code etc.

By the way, do the 2 inspection companies do any checking of the paperwork?

Yes, I'll definitely not consider open papers etc.

Edited by Nate
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After a fair bit of searching, I found two reasonably serviceable cars. I made an offer for one. The owner has it on open papers (which I won't buy), he says he can get it transferred to himself and I can then buy it (I am ok with this) 

Does anyone know if the DMT has a waiting period between transferring vehicles, for example if he transfers it to his name tomorrow, do I need to wait X amount of time before I can transfer it to myself?

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11 hours ago, Nate said:

Does anyone know if the DMT has a waiting period between transferring vehicles, for example if he transfers it to his name tomorrow, do I need to wait X amount of time before I can transfer it to myself?

As far as I know this should not be a problem - you can call them up and ask. DMT are usually helpful on their hotline. 

Fines are applicable ONLY when there is a difference between the transfer dates of the new owner submitting the MTA form and the old owner submitting their version of the form. 

 

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18 hours ago, Nate said:

Does anyone know if the DMT has a waiting period between transferring vehicles

to my knowledge, one day transfer can be done only once per 6 months. If you transfer today in 1 day service, you cannot transfer the same for 6 months.

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4 hours ago, amsandun said:

to my knowledge, one day transfer can be done only once per 6 months. If you transfer today in 1 day service, you cannot transfer the same for 6 months.

Can I do a normal transfer? Or does this mean that for 6 months I can't transfer the car?

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On 12/30/2024 at 8:49 PM, Nate said:

Can I do a normal transfer? Or does this mean that for 6 months I can't transfer the car?

I don't think a normal transfer has the restriction that @amsandun mentioned. In your scenario I'd suggest you asking the current owner to do a one-day transfer to himself- then do a normal transfer to you. But as i mentioned before, check with DMT. Call their hotline. 

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14 minutes ago, matroska said:

I don't think a normal transfer has the restriction that @amsandun mentioned. In your scenario I'd suggest you asking the current owner to do a one-day transfer to himself- then do a normal transfer to you. But as i mentioned before, check with DMT. Call their hotline. 

I just asked from a guy that handles these vehicle transfers as a side job for extra cash. He said for a normal transfer there's no such barrier but might take 4-5 months to receive the new registration book. In this case, I also think the best option for @Nate is what you have advised above. One day transfer for previous owner and apply a normal transfer to himself.

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On 1/1/2025 at 1:04 AM, amsandun said:

I just asked from a guy that handles these vehicle transfers as a side job for extra cash. He said for a normal transfer there's no such barrier but might take 4-5 months to receive the new registration book. In this case, I also think the best option for @Nate is what you have advised above. One day transfer for previous owner and apply a normal transfer to himself.

Thank you both so much. Yes, I'll let the owner do the one day transfer, and do a normal transfer for myself. 

A few questions: 

- the vehicle (E110) requires some suspension work - all four shock absorbers must be replaced and a few other things have to be done, including replacing boots and other things in the steering rack. Is there a good garage to do this, also a place to get shock absorbers, any idea what the shock absorbers should cost/where to get them? 

- I should probably get the timing belt replaced (need to check) any tips where to get that done and approx cost?

- I am also wondering about safe ways to slightly increase the vehicle height (as I live out of Colombo and roads are rough. Ideas include slightly larger diameter tyres etc.

 

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On 1/1/2025 at 11:34 AM, amsandun said:

I just asked from a guy that handles these vehicle transfers as a side job for extra cash.

this guy doesn't happen to be from Maradana area working in shipping by any chance would he? 

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3 hours ago, Nate said:

Thank you both so much. Yes, I'll let the owner do the one day transfer, and do a normal transfer for myself. 

A few questions: 

- the vehicle (E110) requires some suspension work - all four shock absorbers must be replaced and a few other things have to be done, including replacing boots and other things in the steering rack. Is there a good garage to do this, also a place to get shock absorbers, any idea what the shock absorbers should cost/where to get them? 

- I should probably get the timing belt replaced (need to check) any tips where to get that done and approx cost?

- I am also wondering about safe ways to slightly increase the vehicle height (as I live out of Colombo and roads are rough. Ideas include slightly larger diameter tyres etc.

 

Most of your requirements above are basic stuff and the E110 is a fairly well understood and simple car, so any decent place that you are used to should be able to handle this (specially since you mentioned you're based out of Colombo) 

As for increasing vehicle height, the 110 has fairly decent ground clearance, unless you travel on really bad roads -it can cope. 

As far as I know the 110 comes with 13 inch wheels stock, so you can go for slightly larger wheels. Other methods that are used to change vehicle height such as coil overs  can be should be done carefully, as it may compromise things like stability and comfort.

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20 hours ago, matroska said:

Most of your requirements above are basic stuff and the E110 is a fairly well understood and simple car, so any decent place that you are used to should be able to handle this (specially since you mentioned you're based out of Colombo) 

As for increasing vehicle height, the 110 has fairly decent ground clearance, unless you travel on really bad roads -it can cope. 

As far as I know the 110 comes with 13 inch wheels stock, so you can go for slightly larger wheels. Other methods that are used to change vehicle height such as coil overs  can be should be done carefully, as it may compromise things like stability and comfort.

Thanks, that makes sense.

A few more questions

- for the vehicle transfer (normal service) it mentions handing over the revenue license - do they look at this document and give it back? I assume we need it to drive the vehicle. I spoke to the DMT and the person I spoke to didn't know.

- I am told the normal service takes about 3 months. Is this a reasonable estimate? I am fine with 3/6 months etc.

I requested a no objection letter from the seller (certified by grama niladarali) and their ID copy also, though I think the book objection letter doesn't need to be certified.

I will take certified photos (of myself) and other documents as needed for the one day service. My understanding is they can do one day service if whoever in charge is satisfied with the documents, if not, they can do the regular service. I figure it's no harm to try for the one day?

 

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23 minutes ago, Nate said:

Got an emissions test done. Does anyone know if these results are reasonable/good? I tried to search on Google but didn't get much insight.

IMG-20250106-WA0028~2.jpg

ChatGPT says:

Vehicle Health Report (Based on SL standards):

1. Emissions Compliance

  • Overall Status: The car has successfully passed the smog test, indicating compliance with emission regulations. This is a strong indicator that the vehicle is in good mechanical health and is running efficiently.

2. Idle Test (1030 RPM)

  • HC (Hydrocarbons): 274 ppm

    • Standard: 1000 ppm
    • Assessment: HC levels are well within limits, suggesting proper fuel atomization and combustion. Elevated HC could indicate issues like misfires, leaking injectors, or worn spark plugs. However, this car’s results are clean, meaning no such issues are evident.
  • CO (Carbon Monoxide): 0.12%

    • Standard: 3.00%
    • Assessment: Extremely low CO emissions indicate the air-fuel ratio is close to the ideal mix. This reflects a properly functioning fuel injection system, oxygen sensors, and catalytic converter.
  • Lambda (Air-Fuel Ratio): 1.06

    • Optimal Value: 1.00 (ideal stoichiometric ratio for gasoline engines)
    • Assessment: The slight lean mix (λ > 1) is acceptable, showing good tuning. A lean mixture may improve fuel efficiency but can slightly increase combustion temperatures, which is tolerable at idle.
  • O₂ (Oxygen): 1.49%

    • Assessment: A small amount of residual oxygen suggests the engine’s combustion process is efficient and there is no over-fueling.
  • CO₂ (Carbon Dioxide): 14.28%

    • Assessment: High CO₂ indicates complete fuel combustion, a hallmark of a healthy engine.

3. High RPM Test (2500 RPM)

  • HC (Hydrocarbons): 82 ppm

    • Standard: 1000 ppm
    • Assessment: HC levels drop significantly at higher RPM, indicating that the engine runs even cleaner under load. This suggests good spark plug performance and combustion chamber efficiency.
  • CO (Carbon Monoxide): 0.17%

    • Standard: 3.00%
    • Assessment: Slightly higher CO compared to idle, which is normal as fuel demand increases at higher RPMs. Still, the value is very low, confirming no signs of an overly rich air-fuel mixture.
  • Lambda (Air-Fuel Ratio): 1.04

    • Assessment: The air-fuel ratio remains close to optimal at higher RPMs, further verifying proper engine tuning and fuel system function.
  • O₂ (Oxygen): 1.02%

    • Assessment: Less residual oxygen at higher RPMs reflects increased fuel burning efficiency under load, as expected.
  • CO₂ (Carbon Dioxide): 14.60%

    • Assessment: Slightly higher CO₂ at 2500 RPM is expected due to increased combustion. This confirms optimal engine performance.

4. General Observations

  • Catalytic Converter: The low HC and CO levels strongly suggest the catalytic converter is functioning effectively, converting harmful gases into less toxic substances.
  • Fuel Injection System: Proper air-fuel ratio (as indicated by λ) and low CO emissions point to a well-functioning fuel injection system.
  • Ignition System: The absence of misfire indicators (low HC emissions) suggests the ignition system, including spark plugs and coils, is in good condition.
  • Engine Seals: No excessive unburned hydrocarbons imply minimal oil or coolant leaks into the combustion chamber.
  • Exhaust System: Low backpressure is inferred due to proper oxygen and CO levels, indicating the exhaust system is clear of restrictions.

Recommendations for Maintenance

  • While the vehicle passed the test with excellent results, periodic maintenance is key to sustaining this performance. Consider the following:
    1. Engine Oil: Ensure regular oil changes to prevent carbon buildup in the combustion chamber.
    2. Air Filter: Inspect and replace if dirty to maintain efficient airflow.
    3. Oxygen Sensors: Though functioning well now, these degrade over time. Replace them as per the manufacturer’s schedule.
    4. Spark Plugs: Inspect and replace if they show wear to maintain combustion efficiency.
    5. Catalytic Converter: No immediate action required, but avoid issues like unburned fuel reaching it, which can damage it.

Conclusion

This car is in excellent mechanical condition, as evidenced by its low emissions and efficient combustion performance. There are no immediate concerns, and the vehicle appears well-maintained. To ensure ongoing reliability, continue with routine inspections and maintenance.

 

 


Vehicle Health Report (Based on EU Standards)

The European Union enforces strict Euro Emissions Standards (currently Euro 6 for modern vehicles), regulating pollutants such as Hydrocarbons (HC), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Nitrogen Oxides (NOx). Based on your test data, the results are evaluated for compliance with typical EU limits.


1. Emissions Compliance

  • Overall Status: PASS
    The car complies with EU smog standards, reflecting good combustion efficiency and low pollutant levels. The results suggest the vehicle is in excellent condition and meets the expectations for its emissions category (Euro 3, Euro 4, or higher).

2. Idle Test (1030 RPM)

At idle, emissions are evaluated to check engine efficiency under low-load conditions.

  • HC (Hydrocarbons): 274 ppm

    • EU Standard (Euro 6 Limit): 100 ppm
    • Assessment: The HC level at idle slightly exceeds the Euro 6 limit for modern vehicles, though it may comply with earlier Euro standards (Euro 3 or 4). Elevated HC could indicate minor issues with incomplete combustion, possibly due to a lean mixture or slightly aged ignition components.
  • CO (Carbon Monoxide): 0.12%

    • EU Standard (Euro 6 Limit): 0.20%
    • Assessment: The CO level is well within limits, reflecting efficient combustion and no over-fueling at idle.
  • λ (Air-Fuel Ratio): 1.06

    • EU Standard Range: 0.97 to 1.03
    • Assessment: The lambda value slightly above the optimal range indicates a lean air-fuel mixture. While this improves fuel efficiency, it could lead to increased NOx emissions, which are not directly measured in your test results.
  • O₂ (Oxygen): 1.49%

    • Assessment: A significant amount of residual oxygen indicates efficient combustion but further confirms the slightly lean mixture.
  • CO₂ (Carbon Dioxide): 14.28%

    • Assessment: High CO₂ levels indicate complete combustion, with most of the carbon in the fuel being converted to CO₂. This is a hallmark of a healthy engine.

3. High RPM Test (2500 RPM)

This test simulates real-world driving conditions by analyzing emissions under load.

  • HC (Hydrocarbons): 82 ppm

    • EU Standard (Euro 6 Limit): 100 ppm
    • Assessment: Well below the Euro 6 limit, indicating very clean combustion at higher RPM. This confirms the ignition system, fuel injection system, and combustion chambers are performing optimally.
  • CO (Carbon Monoxide): 0.17%

    • EU Standard (Euro 6 Limit): 0.30%
    • Assessment: Low CO levels reflect a proper air-fuel ratio and effective catalytic converter performance under load.
  • λ (Air-Fuel Ratio): 1.04

    • EU Standard Range: 0.97 to 1.03
    • Assessment: The lambda value remains slightly lean, which is not uncommon at higher RPM. However, this could contribute to marginally higher NOx emissions, not measured in this test.
  • O₂ (Oxygen): 1.02%

    • Assessment: Minimal residual oxygen at higher RPM indicates efficient fuel combustion and no signs of over-fueling.
  • CO₂ (Carbon Dioxide): 14.60%

    • Assessment: High CO₂ levels confirm that the majority of carbon is being burned efficiently into CO₂, which is typical of a healthy engine at higher RPMs.

4. General Observations Based on EU Standards

  • Catalytic Converter:
    The low HC and CO values indicate the catalytic converter is functioning effectively, converting harmful pollutants into less toxic substances.

  • Lambda Sensor (Oxygen Sensor):
    The lambda readings suggest the sensor is slightly compensating toward a lean mixture, possibly due to minor aging or calibration drift. This is acceptable but worth monitoring to ensure compliance with future tests.

  • Fuel Injection System:
    Proper air-fuel ratios and low CO levels confirm that the fuel injectors and intake systems are operating efficiently.

  • Ignition System:
    Efficient combustion (low HC and CO levels) indicates the ignition system, including spark plugs and coils, is in good working condition.

  • Exhaust System:
    The emissions results show no indication of blockages or leaks in the exhaust system.


Recommendations for EU Compliance

While the vehicle has passed the emissions test, these maintenance steps can help ensure ongoing compliance with strict EU standards:

  1. Inspect Spark Plugs:
    Slightly elevated HC levels at idle could indicate aging spark plugs. Replace them if they show signs of wear or fouling.

  2. Clean the Fuel Injection System:
    A slightly lean mixture (λ above 1.03) suggests the injectors might benefit from cleaning to ensure precise fuel delivery.

  3. Check Lambda Sensor Calibration:
    The lambda sensor is functioning but may require recalibration or replacement if the lean mixture persists. This ensures compliance with NOx limits, which are crucial for Euro 6 vehicles.

  4. Replace Air Filter:
    A dirty air filter can disrupt the air-fuel ratio and cause lean running. Ensure it is clean for optimal airflow.

  5. Periodic Maintenance:

    • Regularly inspect the catalytic converter to ensure sustained efficiency.
    • Change engine oil on schedule to reduce carbon buildup in the combustion chamber.
    • Verify the exhaust system for any leaks or restrictions.

Conclusion

This car is in excellent condition and complies with EU emissions standards. It performs well under both idle and high RPM conditions, with emissions levels well within permissible limits for CO and HC. While the HC at idle is slightly higher than the strict Euro 6 threshold, this may still meet the requirements of older Euro standards. Minor preventative maintenance will ensure continued compliance with EU regulations and sustain the vehicle's performance.

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Guys, I was able to purchase the car. Unsurprisingly there's a lot of work to do, but that's fine.

I've sorted out the suspension issues, I'm now working on engine issues.

Need to get a tuneup done and to check all the sensors, etc. it seems some of the pulleys are misaligned and belts are frayed, so I want to sort that out asap 

 

Can someone recommend me a good place to do a tuneup and also some of the engine work needed (e110, 5a engine) - I basically need a place with technical knowledge and patience to do a reasonable job.

I'll separately post a thread on the learnings and resources so it can help anyone (hopefully)

 

Edit: I also need to check on the gearbox. At the least, a fluid change and service perhaps? It seems it doesn't downshift easily, but this could be a perception on my part (engine performance etc) which may be OK after a tune-up 

Edited by Nate
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3 hours ago, Nate said:

Guys, I was able to purchase the car. Unsurprisingly there's a lot of work to do, but that's fine.

I've sorted out the suspension issues, I'm now working on engine issues.

Need to get a tuneup done and to check all the sensors, etc. it seems some of the pulleys are misaligned and belts are frayed, so I want to sort that out asap 

 

Can someone recommend me a good place to do a tuneup and also some of the engine work needed (e110, 5a engine) - I basically need a place with technical knowledge and patience to do a reasonable job.

I'll separately post a thread on the learnings and resources so it can help anyone (hopefully)

 

Edit: I also need to check on the gearbox. At the least, a fluid change and service perhaps? It seems it doesn't downshift easily, but this could be a perception on my part (engine performance etc) which may be OK after a tune-up 

Congratulations !

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4 hours ago, Nate said:

Guys, I was able to purchase the car. Unsurprisingly there's a lot of work to do, but that's fine.

Congrats! Like to see a little follow up and a few pics if that's not too much to ask ! 

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Personally I think the best vehicle workshop in Kandy is Nandana Motors aka SL Chop Shop.

Almost all the tuned and modified rides in Kandy and even other areas go to them for mechanical and restoration work. Everything from the post office delicas to the Kandy big shots and the GTRs go to them. 
 

Pricey, long waiting list. But worth it. Warranty is also given on some repairs. 
 

Cant beat them for restorations in kandy or even the whole island tbh.

this is through my personal experience and customer feedback Iv got. They also got a YouTube if you want to see their work before going(what I did)

Kandy has a lot of crook mechanics. Beware.

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On 1/23/2025 at 11:36 AM, Hyaenidae said:

Where are you from? If you're around Kandy I hear the recently opened "Knight Auto Works" has the latest equipment and expertise for tuneups.

Thank you so much. Any place in Colombo? 

I urgently need to get the following done:

- Correct pulley misalignment (crankshaft, power steering) and replace belts.

- a proper tuneup. Examine sensors, clean, check, replace as needed.

 

 

On 1/23/2025 at 12:27 PM, iRage said:

Congratulations !

Thank you so much. Appreciate your help which made it possible.

On 1/23/2025 at 12:42 PM, matroska said:

Congrats! Like to see a little follow up and a few pics if that's not too much to ask ! 

Totes. I created a blog so I can post in detail. Hope it will help someone.

On 1/23/2025 at 1:10 PM, fiat fan said:

Personally I think the best vehicle workshop in Kandy is Nandana Motors aka SL Chop Shop.

Almost all the tuned and modified rides in Kandy and even other areas go to them for mechanical and restoration work. Everything from the post office delicas to the Kandy big shots and the GTRs go to them. 
 

Pricey, long waiting list. But worth it. Warranty is also given on some repairs. 
 

Cant beat them for restorations in kandy or even the whole island tbh.

this is through my personal experience and customer feedback Iv got. They also got a YouTube if you want to see their work before going(what I did)

Kandy has a lot of crook mechanics. Beware.

Thanks so much. Know any places in CMB?

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