what is everyone's opinion on the new Honda City RS?

kiwisunset · July 24

will I take a massive hit on the resale value if I go for the City RS instead of popular/trendy choices such as Raize, Suzuki Fronx or KIA Sonet? I would've loved to go for the latter 2 but badge snobs that I live with (this is a car for the entire family not just my personal joyride so I have to listen to them) vetos any non Honda or Toyota. And I didn't like the lack of features of the Toyota L*nka Raize and the price premium of the non TL Raize.

Feel free to make suggestions, recommendations within 10-15.5M budget.

Hyaenidae · July 24

It has the dreaded wet belt (belt-in-oil) so I would avoid it if I were you

Go for a Toyota Taisor (Rebadged FronX) if you want to please the brand snobs

Edited July 24 by Hyaenidae

iRage · July 24

I was going to suggest Taizor - the rebadged Fronx if the badge is an issue.
The JDM Fronx is becoming quite popular over here in Japan (we get both a FWD and AWD variant). Simple motoring with modest creature comforts. Rides and handles well too. We only get a 1.5L mild-Hybrid variant even though it competes with the Raize (1L and 1.2L). Performance-wise, the Fronx over here performs better than the Raize. SL gets the 1L variant and, on paper, seems to be better than the 1L Turbo Raize. Given the choice between a Raize and Fronx, I would go for the Fronx (JDM mid-grade is equipped as well as the highest spec Raize - interior looks more modern). Now I have no idea if all this translates to the Fronz you get in SL. Going with a Taizor/Fronx gives you the added benefit of being able to stay-away from questionable car importers (especially when things go wrong).

I would say go with the Suzuki badge - the source model. Historically, the source model has always done better than rebadged versions. This is because of technical support after end-of-life of the model. The rebadges have to go to the source manufacturer for parts (which can take time) or the customer just gets sent to them (i.e. Toyota needs to get parts from Suzuki or Toyota sends the customer directly to Suzuki).

Suzuki is as reputable as Toyota and Honda. It's kind of like the under-dog. Don't forget: the fact that Toyota takes Suzuki (India) models and resells them with nothing but a Toyota badge stuck on it shows that they are a pretty good car manufacturer (Suzuki Baleno = Toyota Starlet/Glanza, Suzuki Alto (Indian ver) = Toyota Vitz, etc...).

As for the City RS....it is a pretty good car. Has taken the spot of where cars like the Civic, Corolla, Sunny used to be (these cars have grown up to a higher market segment). The only issue with the City RS is the wet timing belt. In the long run this will kill the desirability of these cars. Nevertheless, there will be a group of City owners who are in denial and would insist that their cars are worth as much as they were when new (kind of like the 1L Civic owners who are completely oblivious to the good and bad of the model).

If you are open to a City RS, have you considered something like a Bezza, or is the Perodua badge way too off-stream for the badge snobs?

kiwisunset · July 25

9 hours ago, iRage said:

I was going to suggest Taizor - the rebadged Fronx if the badge is an issue.
The JDM Fronx is becoming quite popular over here in Japan (we get both a FWD and AWD variant). Simple motoring with modest creature comforts. Rides and handles well too. We only get a 1.5L mild-Hybrid variant even though it competes with the Raize (1L and 1.2L). Performance-wise, the Fronx over here performs better than the Raize. SL gets the 1L variant and, on paper, seems to be better than the 1L Turbo Raize. Given the choice between a Raize and Fronx, I would go for the Fronx (JDM mid-grade is equipped as well as the highest spec Raize - interior looks more modern). Now I have no idea if all this translates to the Fronz you get in SL. Going with a Taizor/Fronx gives you the added benefit of being able to stay-away from questionable car importers (especially when things go wrong).

I would say go with the Suzuki badge - the source model. Historically, the source model has always done better than rebadged versions. This is because of technical support after end-of-life of the model. The rebadges have to go to the source manufacturer for parts (which can take time) or the customer just gets sent to them (i.e. Toyota needs to get parts from Suzuki or Toyota sends the customer directly to Suzuki).

Suzuki is as reputable as Toyota and Honda. It's kind of like the under-dog. Don't forget: the fact that Toyota takes Suzuki (India) models and resells them with nothing but a Toyota badge stuck on it shows that they are a pretty good car manufacturer (Suzuki Baleno = Toyota Starlet/Glanza, Suzuki Alto (Indian ver) = Toyota Vitz, etc...).

As for the City RS....it is a pretty good car. Has taken the spot of where cars like the Civic, Corolla, Sunny used to be (these cars have grown up to a higher market segment). The only issue with the City RS is the wet timing belt. In the long run this will kill the desirability of these cars. Nevertheless, there will be a group of City owners who are in denial and would insist that their cars are worth as much as they were when new (kind of like the 1L Civic owners who are completely oblivious to the good and bad of the model).

If you are open to a City RS, have you considered something like a Bezza, or is the Perodua badge way too off-stream for the badge snobs?

How big of an issue is the wet timing belt of the City RS?

What is your opinion on the KIA Sonet ? There is a possibility of being able to convert them to accept KIA due to the 5 year 150k warranty.

What about the Nissan Almera ? I liked its blue interior and it's about 1.2 mil cheaper if I go for the 2024 version. But I have heard Nissan/Jatco transmission have horrible reputation.

Hyaenidae · July 25

3 hours ago, kiwisunset said:

How big of an issue is the wet timing belt of the City RS?

🤏 <-This big

Jokes aside please watch the video, it has the A-Z explanation. Manufacturers are phasing out the wet belt system - Honda themselves ceased offering the Civic with that tech, City would be next

iRage · July 26

On 7/25/2025 at 6:13 PM, kiwisunset said:

How big of an issue is the wet timing belt of the City RS?

It is big. As it is it can be a significant repair. It is fine when the car in new and you keep up with proper maintenance. But as it gets old...that is when things get dicey. When I say old I don't mean a few decades, I am talking about a few years. It is hard to say when it would happen.

No idea about the Sonet.

On 7/25/2025 at 6:13 PM, kiwisunset said:

What about the Nissan Almera ?

Decent car...personally feel it is the comfiest in the segment. Comes well equipped as well.

On 7/25/2025 at 6:13 PM, kiwisunset said:

Nissan/Jatco transmission have horrible reputation

The Nissan variants of JATCO transmissions in the past have had issues (use of plastic components, etc...). Nissan claims to have improved them. I honestly don't know if those issues persist in the new Almera. What I can say is that the CVT7 (JF015/020E) transmissions are being used in Mitsubishi Delicas and Suzuki Hustlers, Swifts and Spacios and a whole host more and they don't have any issues. So unless Nissan has done some wierd wizardy on the transmission (which is highly possible) it should be okay.

Edited July 28 by iRage

kiwisunset · July 27

On 7/26/2025 at 10:23 AM, iRage said:

The Nissan variants of JATCO transmissions in the past have had issues (use of plastic components, etc...). Nissan claims to have improved them. I honestly don't know if those issues persist in the new Almera. What I can say is that the CVT7 (JF015/020E) transmissions are being used in Mitsubishi Delicas and Suzuki Hustlers, Swifts and Spacios and a whole host more and they don't have any issues. So unless Nissan has done some wierd wizardy on the transmission (which is highly possible) it should be okay.

so out of the two the Almera seems to be the safer bet. I am also now considering the Hybrid Raize, anything I need to look out for in that ?

Also many Japanese imports include a 3 year warranty (plus some included services) from KOBE, Sterling and M*gcity, are these legit ? or are they some scam/fake promises ?

iRage · July 27

22 hours ago, kiwisunset said:

so out of the two the Almera seems to be the safer bet

Out of the two means the City ? Yes...the Almera (technically) on paper is the safer bet. Both cars have been around for around the same amount of time and both cars are heavily used in South East Asia (Taxis, rental cars and personal cars). The issue is the City has the stigma of the wet belt and the Almera stigma of Nissan's past. How the Lankan market would react to these cars when they are of age is a gamble.

Personally I think you should keep the Fronx in the running. Has more road presence than both those cars and doesn't look like a budget vehicle (especially compared to the Almera).

As for the Raize..tried and tested yes...but it does feel old. Even over here in Japan sales have been slowing down (especially after the Daihatsu scandal) as there are other more modern options available. Besides, for the same amount of money as the ALmera, City and Fronx won't you be getting a base/low-trim Raize even though it is JDM ?

22 hours ago, kiwisunset said:

Also many Japanese imports include a 3 year warranty (plus some included services) from KOBE, Sterling and M*gcity, are these legit ? or are they some scam/fake promises ?

The warranty service itself is legit..but it is not as extensive or straight forward as some car sales make it out to be (some car sales will go to the extent of stating they would even replace the entire engine, etc....without any question). It is a standard warranty with the usual limitations. What is questionable is the car salesperson and the appointed service agent. Sometimes they just are not good at following up with claims or doing the job properly (this includes the services). Also, in regard to JDM cars....most of these cars have been stored in Japan for some time. Because of delivery time-lines, one cannot place an order for a brand-new car with a Toyota dealer and get it in a month or two as in the past. These car exporters have been holding onto stock in Japan. So the shop exporting your car would have kept in in stock themselves or would go and buy one of these pre-stocked cars from auction (which is why you get a whole bunch of 2024 brand new vehicles despite it is being almost at the end of Q3 of 2025 - in the past these would be sold as 1 year old cars. Not brand new). So you need to make sure that the vehicle is legit (properly stored in Japan, mileages have not been tampered and it actually IS 2024 brand new,etc..). Also...the exporters still do buy crashed cars and fix it up before export. So you need to make sure it is not one of those cars. Get a Car Check report. They can do a check on the car and its history in Japan.

Edited July 28 by iRage

matroska · July 28

On 7/24/2025 at 10:48 PM, kiwisunset said:

will I take a massive hit on the resale value if I go for the City RS instead of popular/trendy choices such as Raize, Suzuki Fronx or KIA Sonet? I would've loved to go for the latter 2 but badge snobs that I live with (this is a car for the entire family not just my personal joyride so I have to listen to them) vetos any non Honda or Toyota. And I didn't like the lack of features of the Toyota L*nka Raize and the price premium of the non TL Raize.

Feel free to make suggestions, recommendations within 10-15.5M budget.

First of all, we cannot predict resale value at this point most of these models are new (maybe not the Raize) so we do not yet know what kind of issues/trends to expect with these. Usually due to various import regulations and tax structures changing, resale value of cars increase - however if they do remain constant then obviously you will lose a bit of resale value when you buy a brand new car - but this is Sri Lanka so that is a very remote possibility.

The City RS Drives well - it squeezes a lot out of a 1L engine. Decently appointed. A sedan in an age of wanna-be hatchbacks. (deserves some respect) I do have a gripe with the interior materials though. The seats have a Mahendra/Boleroesque feel to it mostly due to the material used - it just feels a tad cheap.

I don't see a 'massive' hit on resale value. Honda's sell well here - the GP1's had their oil burn issues, the GP5/Grace/Vezel unholy trinity had recurring dual clutch issues, the Civic FK6 with it's timing-belt-turbo combo issue, and yet none of them have taken 'massive' resale value hits.

Fronx - I'm yet to drive or be driven in one but at first glance it appears to be rather compact and snug, and same with the sonet.

The Raize, as you mentioned is quite spartan - the variant that TL is offering.

Wouldn't 15.5 Mn fetch you a recon 2023 ish JDM Yaris Cross? The other alternative is the 1.0L Turbo Nissan Almera which goes for around 14 Mn I think?

On 7/25/2025 at 5:21 AM, iRage said:

If you are open to a City RS, have you considered something like a Bezza, or is the Perodua badge way too off-stream for the badge snobs?

Badge impression aside, It would not be in the same league as the other options. It costs way less so it's a more value for money option but the looks are not everyone's cup of tea, and while most of the 1.0 L options discussed were turbo charged the Bezza comes with a NA 1L engine - OP might find it quite sluggish compared to the fronxes and the cities.

On 7/25/2025 at 2:43 PM, kiwisunset said:

How big of an issue is the wet timing belt of the City RS?

Too early to tell specifically with regard to the City but Honda did use this with the tenth gen civic 1L variant so can be expected. As i mentioned earlier these Honda P10 engines make a crazy amount of power from 1L engines as a result these engines run hot a lot -the problem is the belts are also located inside the engine lubricated by oil. Oil that gets very hot and in turn the belts start disintegrating around the 100,000 km mark. This will lead to particle build up in the oil, cause clogging and affect the engine including the turbo. Depending on how frequent the oil changes are done and how you run can change this a bit - for instance I know a guy who had to replace this belt at 200,000 km on a Civic and then there are those who has to do it at 80,000 Km. But the risk is there. As of now the belt will cost around 125,000/- and replacement cost will vary per garage/mechanic. The agent will quote an arm and a leg.

18 hours ago, kiwisunset said:

Also many Japanese imports include a 3 year warranty (plus some included services) from KOBE, Sterling and M*gcity, are these legit ? or are they some scam/fake promises ?

These would NOT be straightforward warranties - not quite scams but you will have a tough time claiming them. If you're concerned about warranties I think a grey import is not your cup of tea - you might be better off with a fronx.

iRage · July 28

48 minutes ago, matroska said:

belts start disintegrating around the 100,000 km mark

54 minutes ago, matroska said:

then there are those who has to do it at 80,000 Km.

These are just best-case scenarios and are similar to normal timing belt replacement intervals. Sadly, that is not the case with wet timing belts and the life span can be far less than that. In Sri Lanka itself, there are quite a few reports of the wet-belt needing replacement at the 50 to 60 thousand mark. the wet-belt replacement, more often than not, can include additional repairs like attending to the turbo charger, oil lines, etc...

Now, I don't know if Honda has done anything different than other manufacturers, but, with many other wet-belt applications, belts do (and have) disintegrate at much lower mileages than the standard 80 to 100 thousand kms. Factors such as oil temperature and the efficiency of the oil and the car's cooling system in dissipating heat make a significant difference. High temperature zones and heavy use do not help either. So typically, if the car is used under what most manufacturers would consider as "harsh use", then the risk increases. Can diligent maintenance help avoid it? It might help, but there is no way to know (plenty of wet-belt cars that had premature issues had been meticulously taken care of)

So, if there is an option go with the non-wet-belt option (preferably one that doesn't have worrisome transmissions )

1 hour ago, matroska said:

Bezza comes with a NA 1L engine - OP might find it quite sluggish

True, surprisingly not by that much (especially when you are "somewhat" at speed). The Bezza is almost 200kg lighter than the City RS and Almera so I suppose it makes up for it from that. I would say it is closest to the Vitz/Yaris. Moves well provided you put your foot down at low speed but gets tired at higher speed or when under load. The Almera is somewhat the same too (has an interesting "narrow ?" power band in the low to mid rev range). I reckon the City would be much better if it retains the engine characteristics of the Civic. Also yes...the City, Almera and Fronx are far more refined than the Bezza. Although I would not say the same about the Raize (sorry...Raize is just too old and entry level - just like the Bezza).

RWD · July 29

Ideal would be the new civic with the 1.5 turbo but I heard it's going for a crazy 24 mil and up. Just not an attractive proposition anymore sadly

matroska · July 29

13 hours ago, iRage said:

These are just best-case scenarios and are similar to normal timing belt replacement intervals. Sadly, that is not the case with wet timing belts and the life span can be far less than that.

Yes there are multiple instances of belts dying a premature death - but having spoken to a few Honda Mechs they suggest going for the change around 80 to prevent it going kaput sometime between 80-100 which as per them is the usual mileage this happens.

Best-case scenarios WRT to a Wet belt is having to replace the belt at whatever mileage without any other repairs.

"I have good news and bad news"

"what's the bad news?"

"Well your timing belt is on it's last legs we need to replace it"

"Whaaaat? at Just 75,000 KM? My dads 110 ran 450,000 km with it's original timing belt and then another 75,000 km with some rubber bands from arpico"

"dude this is a different type of engine"

"OK what's the good news?"

"We only need to replace the timing belt"

13 hours ago, iRage said:

more often than not, can include additional repairs like attending to the turbo charger, oil lines, etc...

Yup and it's mostly turbo charger. So more often than not you get a combo-deal like the guy I met at a Honda shop who had to tow his car got. He had done 100,000 + oblivious to the fact that he had to check his timing belt around 80. He had to replace the turbo as well

13 hours ago, iRage said:

Also yes...the City, Almera and Fronx are far more refined than the Bezza. Although I would not say the same about the Raize

Given OP's emphasis on warranty - the Fronx with agent warranty looks the safer bet. If he had boiled down his choices to a Raize and a Bezza - selecting the Bezza at 8.5M is a no-brainer the Toyo badge is not worth a 3-4 more million.

Edited July 29 by matroska

iRage · July 29

1 hour ago, matroska said:

Toyo badge is not worth a 3-4 more million.

Toyota badge is really not worth anything more to be honest (and this is coming from..as you all tag me as...a "Toyota fan"..depite me actually having owned cars other than Toyotas )

iRage · July 29

1 hour ago, matroska said:

Best-case scenarios WRT to a Wet belt is having to replace the belt at whatever mileage without any other repairs.

"I have good news and bad news"

"what's the bad news?"

"Well your timing belt is on it's last legs we need to replace it"

"Whaaaat? at Just 75,000 KM? My dads 110 ran 450,000 km with it's original timing belt and then another 75,000 km with some rubber bands from arpico"

"dude this is a different type of engine"

"OK what's the good news?"

"We only need to replace the timing belt"

Arpico rubber bands...sounds like they did a Nissan engine conversion

matroska · July 29

25 minutes ago, iRage said:

Toyota badge is really not worth anything more to be honest (and this is coming from..as you all tag me as...a "Toyota fan"..depite me actually having owned cars other than Toyotas )

tell that to the G superior-badged Premio fans who managed to get me kicked out of a popular Facebook group last year

BTW the Fronx-Taisor episode reminds me of the counter-campaign the Daihatsu agent did a few years back with the terios implying that the rush was somehow an inferior and dodgy product without warranty

29 minutes ago, iRage said:

Arpico rubber bands...sounds like they did a Nissan engine conversion

ouch!

iRage · July 29

3 hours ago, matroska said:

TW the Fronx-Taisor episode reminds me of the counter-campaign the Daihatsu agent did a few years back with the terios implying that the rush was somehow an inferior and dodgy product without warranty

Sri Lankan method of selling cars : Whatever you have and want to sell off is the best thing on the planet. What the other person has is absolute garbage.

Hyaenidae · July 30

23 hours ago, matroska said:

Yes there are multiple instances of belts dying a premature death - but having spoken to a few Honda Mechs they suggest going for the change around 80 to prevent it going kaput sometime between 80-100 which as per them is the usual mileage this happens.

Best-case scenarios WRT to a Wet belt is having to replace the belt at whatever mileage without any other repairs.

Belt dust and debris is not an unusual occurrence with rubber belts, it's rubber after all. Even metal transmissions and engines shed some "glitter" over their lifetime, mostly in the break in period

Issue with the wet belt is it dumps that fine dust/debris straight into the lubrication system, clogging strainers and starving the engine and the turbo of oil over time (which is not a concern with dry belts, clean off the timing cover of any rubber debris when replacing the belt and you're all set)

So even if you replace your timing belt in a timely manner and it looks pristine when you take it off it could've dumped some fine rubber particles to the lubrication system and you'd never know, the next belt won't get a chance to shed as much particles as the first before the strainers get clogged and engine/turbo starts losing oil pressure

matroska · August 4

On 7/30/2025 at 11:09 AM, Hyaenidae said:

system and you'd never know, the next belt won't get a chance to shed as much particles as the first before the strainers get clogged and engine/turbo starts losing oil pressure

In other words, the new belt get's to say 'I can't be blamed... it's the previous belts fault'

On a serious note, It would be interesting to see , while the wet-belt driven engine will certainly have this risk, how it holds up on the P10A6- I haven't been able to find anything yet on any forums from Thailand - where the 1.0 Liter variant was launched a few years ago. Suggest OP do some research on it if he's still interested in the City.

Edited August 4 by matroska

Hyaenidae · August 4

1 hour ago, matroska said:

In other words, the new belt get's to say 'I can't be blamed... it's the previous belts fault'

On a serious note, It would be interesting to see , while the wet-belt driven engine will certainly have this risk, how it holds up on the P10A6- I haven't been able to find anything yet on any forums from Thailand - where the 1.0 Liter variant was launched a few years ago. Suggest OP do some research on it if he's still interested in the City.

In other words the main reason to avoid wet belt system isn’t necessarily premature belt failure but rather the inherent design flaw of timing belt(s) gradually choking the lubrication system over time... you could have a brand new timing belt and still end up with your lubrication system clogged up with remnants of previous timing belts.

matroska · August 11

On 8/4/2025 at 8:41 PM, Hyaenidae said:

sn’t necessarily premature belt failure but rather the inherent design flaw of timing belt(s) gradually choking the lubrication system over time.

Yes. Even if the belts were somehow designed to last longer (it does not have a long life either - due to the frequent contact with high temperature oil, and these engines are pushed - close to 130 HP from a 1.0L generating high temperatures) there would still be potential future issues. Agent and mechs recommend belt change at 80 (as opposed to the usual 100 mark) but as mentioned based on previous oil change intervals etc, there could be failure much earlier. So basically once you're around 80,000 you're playing a bit of Russian roulette. This is well documented with the Ford Ecoboost, the P10A2 is a recent entrant, I still have not been able to find any material on the City though (it does run a different engine p10a6) - I mean surely the Thailand users would have crossed the 100,000 mark on their City's by now.

Edited August 11 by matroska

kush · August 12

How expensive is this to replace. One could change it every 50K km if this is the only issue in otherwise good car.

All modern cars will have at least one issue may be injectors, turbos, DCT etc..

Hyaenidae · August 12

5 hours ago, kush said:

How expensive is this to replace. One could change it every 50K km if this is the only issue in otherwise good car.

All modern cars will have at least one issue may be injectors, turbos, DCT etc..

You'll have to clean/replace lubrication system strainers + oil pickup strainer in a regular basis too

https://www.facebook.com/100065481549352/posts/pfbid0eEhMYnhJpcTezGUGQULqKVqBMA9Ej4jz8rcoGwPmGBAXC4zC3AVFRDtw479FD8KQl/?app=fbl

Edited August 12 by Hyaenidae