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How To Restore Your Headlights


jdnet

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What causes the blackening of the lights from the inside as oppose to the lense getting oxidated?

lens getting oxidated? I'm not quire sure what this question is and it should be reflector as oppose to lens I guess.

However, as per my knowledge, two things can happen. The lens will discoloured due to exposing to UV and the reflectors can be oxidated if it's made out of metal and chrome plated. It won't oxidated if it's plated on plastic. Oxidation can happen if the seals are broken and water, moisture get into the light, that is if the reflector is made out of metal. If the reflector is plastic, the discolouration or fading, melting can happen due to high wattage bulbs and low quality reflectors found in cheap substitutes.

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  • 1 month later...

What causes the blackening of the lights from the inside as oppose to the lense getting oxidated?

Rangii do you mean the common "smoked light" syndrome we see in most diesel vehicles ? im not exactly sure but i think it happens because of the smoke and carbon monoxide reacting with the plastic :unsure:

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Rangii do you mean the common "smoked light" syndrome we see in most diesel vehicles ? im not exactly sure but i think it happens because of the smoke and carbon monoxide reacting with the plastic :unsure:

Blackening of the rear light cluster of the diesels I used was due to carbon particles sneaked inside to the light cluster. Used to take the cluster out and clean it time to time in order to keep it in appealing color and the visibility of the lights.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Is it just me or do the lenses look cloudy after following this procedure?

I simply waxed my headlights with 3M Cleaner Wax, got rid of the yellowing without the lens appearing cloudy.

Cloudiness depends on how well the job was done. If you sand and polish it right you should be fine. While cleaner wax may have worked for you it will not work on a lens that has turned significantly yellow.

I do fail to see how cleaner wax could work on a yellowed lens though. Maybe your lights were just dirty.

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Cloudiness depends on how well the job was done. If you sand and polish it right you should be fine. While cleaner wax may have worked for you it will not work on a lens that has turned significantly yellow.

I do fail to see how cleaner wax could work on a yellowed lens though. Maybe your lights were just dirty.

Well it says on the bottle that it's a "Light Oxidization Remover".

And no they weren't dirty, I actually had to replace the RH side lamp cluster and the replacement I bought was quite yellow but cleaned up like a charm with the 3M.

Also I use it to regularly clean the fogs of my FiLs N16 that dirty up pretty fast, probably due to the close proximity to ground.

You have to rub it with quite a bit of force though.....

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  • 4 years later...

Did mine... I used 1000 and 1500 grit papers with brasso...

The first pic below shows my car's discolored left headlight and the restored right headlights.... The second pic shows both the restored headlights... however I even though we can see the crystals inside i believe it can be made more crystal clear by applying any other polish? any suggestions?

On another note, the discoloration of the fogs cannot be done from outside, cuz water has gone inside and that's why it looks black even though the fog lights work it doesnt look bright.... anyone know a place where i can take this and get it cleaned from inside?

KZCOWGA.jpgFxfKukf.jpg

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Oh no I did not.... just applied brasso... does it make a big difference after applying the clear coat... and also is there a specific brand or anything I should look into? will hardware shops have it?

I have used TOA / Leyland clear coat and it works well, Needs a sand or a polish once dried 3 coats

Will this liquid work as a clear coat? (I use this as a dashboard cleaner/shiner)

xB1Jerr.jpg

The liquid is probably a cheap wax,

It would be better if you did apply a clear coat as you've sanded the protective layer up front, Not an expert on this but a bit of reading on the net says it may weaken the lens, with mild cracks appearing with time. therefore by covering it up with a clear coat, you'd restore that layer and the clear coat does not yellow up like the original polymer.

Without a clear coat, I reckon it will be yellow in a matter of months, as there is no protective layer.

Again, not an expert; just DIY experience

Edited by tiv
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I have used TOA / Leyland clear coat and it works well, Needs a sand or a polish once dried 3 coats

The liquid is probably a wax/ sealant,

It would be better if you did apply a clear coat as you've sanded the protective layer up front, Not an expert on this but a bit of reading on the net says it may weaken the lens, with mild cracks appearing with time. therefore by covering it up with a clear coat, you'd restore that layer and the clear coat does not yellow up like the original polymer.

Without a clear coat, I reckon it will be yellow in a matter of months, as there is no protective layer.

Again, not an expert; just DIY experience

Ok, every paint shop will have that clear coat yeah?

Edited by PreseaLover
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Ok, every paint shop will have that clear coat yeah?

Yea large scale rattle can agents, the cap would be transparent, for identification.

Would be even better if you can get a 2k clear coat sprayed by a painter, and buffed out a bit for more clarity.

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Yea large scale rattle can agents, the cap would be transparent, for identification.

Would be even better if you can get a 2k clear coat sprayed by a painter, and buffed out a bit for more clarity.

Oh I already rushed into the paint store before I saw this comment and purchased it... Here is a pic below... This one noh?

bcef7ET.jpg

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Oh I already rushed into the paint store before I saw this comment and purchased it... Here is a pic below... This one noh?

bcef7ET.jpg

Spot on, be warned, its gonna haze up once you spray it, within a few hours it will clear up, but to get the ultimate clear finish you need to sand it a tiny bit, or buff it with rubbing compound. Attempt this after about a day of drying.

Edited by tiv
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Spot on, be warned, its gonna haze up once you spray it, within a few hours it will clear up, but to get the ultimate clear finish you need to sand it a tiny bit, or buff it with rubbing compound. Attempt this after about a day of drying.

Ok now I got a few questions....

1. Should I cover the body area of the car with paper or something while spraying or it doesnt affect the paint of the car?

2. how many coats of spray layers should I do? the paint shop dude said apply 2 layers, is that right?

3. What do you mean by rubbing compound? do you mean like after a day of spraying this, polish it with brasso again?

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Ok now I got a few questions....

1. Should I cover the body area of the car with paper or something while spraying or it doesnt affect the paint of the car?

2. how many coats of spray layers should I do? the paint shop dude said apply 2 layers, is that right?

3. What do you mean by rubbing compound? do you mean like after a day of spraying this, polish it with brasso again?

1 . Cover all areas, remove what you can

2. 2-3 coats

3 Brasso, super cut, v cut etc, Yes

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1 . Cover all areas, remove what you can

2. 2-3 coats

3 Brasso, super cut, v cut etc, Yes

Alright, first thing today morning was to apply the clear coat.... Following are the pics on how I did it/before applying the coat, and also how it looks as soon as i applied the coat.... Just after I did it, a big fat black cloud moved my way.... Hope it wont rain :/

gxi8N84.jpgZXZSp3y.jpg

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