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Vote & Help To Choose The Best Alloy For My Car


Hola

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Assuming that you have a Civic similar to Hola's....

Ok if u want to stay auto and gain better performance then the answer would simply be, to make your non-CVT box's performance better why not start by converting it to a CVT in the first place. Auto CVT boxes are easy to find and quite cheap, as cheap as 10k, and this way your cars originality does not suffer either. The multimatic CVT box that powers the Civic Ferio Vi/Vti will be the one to lookout for, trust me its an extremely fun experience to drive.

Also depends if your car is a VTEC or not, the VTEC technology alone in a Honda gives u about 25bhp additionally. And to my knowledge most of these JDM machines with VTEC engines having an auto tranny most definitely came with the CVT technology. So its not just the box that u can work on.

Ok so your interest in gaining better performance is as u mentioned for a drag application right....so where exactly does your car fair in the drags?

nah not really to take part in a competition as such. just want to get it move fast. i got no civic. itz a 2001 city vtec with some modz(see my profile) - (the non vtec comes wit 105hp and vtec comes wit 10 more horses in stock form)

lemme explain my current problem, my low end is currently mapped to be very fuel efficient(i got 1km/L improvement since the remap) however my high end is sufficiently powerful do give quite a bit of a kick in comparison to other 1.5L n.a. rides, but sadly even though my current cut off is at 7800rpm the auto gear changes at 6300-6800... and even worse it cuts back to 4000rpm soon after the change. even tho vtec kicks in at 4500 itz in the 5500-6000rpm range that i feel the real power of my engine start to kick in. so my objective is to stay in the power band even wit my curret gear box i got a material performance gain after chippin but i am thinking about my next step now.

how much will the CVT transmission conversion cost in full(inclusive of labor + etc.)? as u said if i go CVT i can preserve the originality up to a certain extent...

Edited by isurujosh
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:P want to buy a scooby doo....

Hola i know it makes your car dirty. but its just me i guess. I hate those mud covers. Infact most cars like BMW dont come with those,

have you noticed ?

Velo, lik i said i tried but the rear ones are hard to remove and i think i need a garage dude to get the funny bolts out. Anyway we can do something with good old fiber to take away the mud threat isnt it?

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Velo, lik i said i tried but the rear ones are hard to remove and i think i need a garage dude to get the funny bolts out. Anyway we can do something with good old fiber to take away the mud threat isnt it?

Do u go rallying or something, to worry so much of mud? :D

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Can find it...

But tell me guys, my car is all white. Is it ok? I thought white cars needs silver or chrome alloys

have you tried gold wheels... like these Rota's

rotajmags.jpg

black ones look good on a white car if they have somewhat of a highlight on them...like a colored lip

these are also Rota's AutoX version

rotabig_AutoX.jpg

or if money is not an issue:

Work Equip line

workequip03g.gifworkequip2_wheel.gif

workequip3oncar.jpg

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nah not really to take part in a competition as such. just want to get it move fast. i got no civic. itz a 2001 city vtec with some modz(see my profile) - (the non vtec comes wit 105hp and vtec comes wit 10 more horses in stock form)

lemme explain my current problem, my low end is currently mapped to be very fuel efficient(i got 1km/L improvement since the remap) however my high end is sufficiently powerful do give quite a bit of a kick in comparison to other 1.5L n.a. rides, but sadly even though my current cut off is at 7800rpm the auto gear changes at 6300-6800... and even worse it cuts back to 4000rpm soon after the change. even tho vtec kicks in at 4500 itz in the 5500-6000rpm range that i feel the real power of my engine start to kick in. so my objective is to stay in the power band even wit my curret gear box i got a material performance gain after chippin but i am thinking about my next step now.

how much will the CVT transmission conversion cost in full(inclusive of labor + etc.)? as u said if i go CVT i can preserve the originality up to a certain extent...

Alright then its a City, thats why no CVT. The City's engine is similar to the 92-95 Civic engines, they both have the same cam and VTEC mechanism, so with a few mods like intake and straight exhaust should get u to 130hp easily. The problem with your gear changing is because u dont have a fully programmable ECU, do a reading on Jun Chipped auto ecu's for Civics and u will find that those ECU's are able to control gear change as well. If u cant get your hands on one the best thing to do to sort your problem is to swap in an auto CVT box, it will hold the RPM's at around 7,000 and the gear changes will feel like a manual. So that should sort you big time.

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Alright then its a City, thats why no CVT. The City's engine is similar to the 92-95 Civic engines, they both have the same cam and VTEC mechanism, so with a few mods like intake and straight exhaust should get u to 130hp easily. The problem with your gear changing is because u dont have a fully programmable ECU, do a reading on Jun Chipped auto ecu's for Civics and u will find that those ECU's are able to control gear change as well. If u cant get your hands on one the best thing to do to sort your problem is to swap in an auto CVT box, it will hold the RPM's at around 7,000 and the gear changes will feel like a manual. So that should sort you big time.

hey tnx for the tip bro. will either do a manual or cvt conversion in july or so after my exams

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