Davy

Was it confirmed that there are no vacuum leaks and that your booster is properly working before it was determined the problem was in the ABS module?

Welcome to the forum! Is this a recent development or has it been this way all along? Not sure about the HB11, but some older cars required the gear lever to be pushed down towards the floor before shifting into reverse. This is done to prevent accidentally engaging reverse gear while the car is moving forward. Drivers who don't know this often struggle trying to put the gear into reverse. Make sure this is not the case in your car. Members who have experience with HB11s should be able to comment. If there is actually an issue, it could be due to worn out linkages and bushes. The linkages (starting at the foot of the gear lever) should be inspected to determine if friction or an obstruction is causing the difficulty. If your transmission fluid has not been changed in a while, you might want to check the condition and level of the oil as well. I have come across difficulties in engaging certain gears which was due to bad oil in the gearbox.

I have been following this thread closely, but I never got the chance to respond. I have a soft spot for music from the 80s and 90s. Back when music was simple, yet most songs had a meaning that made the hairs on the back of your necks stand up when you listen to them. Call me old, but only a few modern songs makes me feel that way. As a kid, I remember listening to UB40, Jimmy Cliff, Bob Marley, Bee Gees, Boney M, ABBA etc. a lot while riding on the back seat of my father's 4 Sri Volkswagen Beetle. Whenever I hear a song like Kingston Town, it takes me back to moments in the past. Being overseas and away from home, the nostalgia is overwhelming sometimes. So for me, there is no great feeling like taking the car out for a spin while listening to some good old 80s music. I've been filtering out 80s songs for a couple of weeks now and building a Spotify playlist with my favourites. This is what I have so far. I plug my phone into the car, turn up the volume and drive to these tunes. I often catch myself taking a longer route to the destination, just because I want to listen to that next song! Let me know if you guys can think of anything else that I can add to this list. Ones that are not too slow to make you fall asleep on the wheel. I'll share my other car playlists when time permits.

Really? We have an entire thread dedicated to the Viva Elite and it has 4 years worth of content in it. If you couldn't find it, you were not searching properly.

According to my memory, it has a distributor with a single coil inside the distributor housing. @Liyo, Welcome to the forum! It can be due to the coil, but there are other possibilities as well. Can this be experienced always or just when the engine is warm? When the issue comes up, you can get a mechanic to check if each plug gets a spark from the distributor.

Oh right. I was a bit confused about the ignition coils for a minute there. If there is a gasket leak, there is a very slim chance for coolant residue to be deposited over the spark plug electrode that in turn cause their resistance to become higher and thereby causing the corresponding coil to overwork, heat-up and fail prematurely. This again is thinking out loud while being a bit paranoid. But anyway, have you checked your spark plugs? Did you change them and maybe the new ones are of higher resistance? I think you have a few things to check now for issue #1: - Ground connections - Alternator and charging (idle, load etc.) - Condition of spark plugs (this might give you an indication of a gasket leak, but not if the leak is very small) As for the coolant level drop, check the heater element inside the car and the lines + what others have suggested above. If it's a gasket leak, there's no way to find out without taking the valve body out. I have one of these to diagnose issues without taking stuff apart. Can take the 4 plugs out and insert the camera through the plug hole and look around for trails of coolant + corrosion. I wonder if any local garage has a industrial version of this type of "endoscope".

In the layout diagram of the engine fuse box, locate the relay that is against a symbol that says "A/T" and get that relay checked. It shouldn't be too expensive to replace, so I'd get it replaced anyway if I were you. This I believe is the first point of diagnosis.

The Cerato has a bottle type ignition coil? I find that hard to believe. Pretty sure it has a regular "coil over plug" set up where each coil powers either 1 or 2 cylinders. I'm gonna assume this is the case and base my response on this assumption. 1. The coils are supplied power through the ECU by determining many engine parameters including the crank position sensor. If the ECU supplies more power than the rating of the coil, it will eventually burn out. So it could be that your replacement coils are simply wrong (were they used?) or your ECU might be at fault. Just my 2 cents. Having said that, first you need to make sure that none of your engine's ground connections are bad. Especially the ground connection from the battery and the one(s) connecting the engine to the car's chassis. Also, make sure you get the alternator and charging system checked to make sure that the battery is not being overcharged. 2. Might be a very small leak where the coolant evaporates before it even hits the ground. Hope you thoroughly inspected the engine compartment (water lines) for coolant trails or smudge marks. The bright colour of the coolant should allow you to spot it fairly easily. The leak might be in the AC heater element as well. Didn't you have a brake issue with the Cerato a couple of months back? 3. You can do a simple test to determine if the booster is operational: Hope this helps.

Damn, that's a scary one.

1. Get your brake rotors and drums resurfaced With time, the surface of rotors and drums become smooth and shiny, causing the frictional properties of the surface to lower. You can get them resurfaced (commonly referred to as "facing" in SL) which will give the surface the proper texture as well as get rid of warps and heat spots. 2. Use good brake pads The use of cheap aftermarket brake pads might be the reason for the car "dragging" even under heavy braking. I was once surprised when I changed a set of aftermarket brake pads to genuine ones, noticing how much more efficient they were. Not saying only buy genuine pads and liners, but stick to a good brand. Looking at the photos of your tyres, the tyre in the top photo seems to be too far gone.

Looks like it's the pan gasket that's leaking. A pretty straight forward fix. Take your car to a mechanic and get the gasket replaced. If the car doesn't come with a gasket, the mechanic will apply a thin layer of gasket maker and install the pan. In any case, your transmission oil will have to be drained out first. Make use of the opportunity to have the condition of the oil checked and do an oil change if required.

I'm not sure about Piduruthalagala, or the performance of the Alto in high altitudes (Who knows, "Alto" means "Up" in Italian, so maybe it just an indication of not to take it "Up" :P), but this gentleman is right about cars in general not being able to perform well at extremely high altitudes. I believe modern ECUs can deal with this to a certain extent though. The Oxygen density is far less at 2500 meters above sea level. An ICE needs sufficient Oxygen to perform normally, There was a Top Gear episode in which the trio was climbing a whopping 17,000 feet or something (twice as high as Piduruthalagala) and the engines were struggling to keep up + the presenters were struggling to breathe. Will try to find the clip on YouTube and post it here.

It's not that the sensor itself isn't sealed, it's that the sensor is not inside a sealed chamber in some vehicles. In such cases, dust and dirt to get in between the toothed wheel and the also cover the tip of the sensor.

Just curious, what exactly did you observe at Sha? Was it recently? When I got my jobs done, it was only a few months since they had setup shop and the men who worked there were pretty good. Back then, body repairs were headed by a guy (painter, tinkerer, panel beater) who had worked in the middle east for many years + who had German Tech certification. I don't remember his name now, but I can vouch for his work because I never set my eyes off my car during the month it was there and I was more than satisfied with how the job turned out. Maybe he has left. One of my neighbours also submitted their car to this place after it was badly rear ended. And they did so on my recommendation. I saw the car after the repair and they had done the job to perfection.

I don't think that matters because those are hard stickers around the knobs which you can easily take off and switch.

WoW! Great work! Please share details about what you have done for the car besides the bodywork.

I wonder if this is in violation of the AutoLanka classifieds terms and conditions.

Sorry to hear about the accident. Looks like you'll have to replace the tailgate, bumper and tail light + straighten out the inner panels behind the bumper. 2. Try "Sha Auto Park" Kaduwela. They're work is pretty good IMO. Got a full paint job done once and some other minor body repairs. I had SLIC and all I had to do was submit the car and collect it after the repair. Google for their website & directions. Note that this was during the 2011 - 2013 period, but I think they are still operational.

What's funny is the topic title saying "among these vehicles" while the 5th option in the list is "Other vehicle?" Sorry, couldn't help it.

Glad you got the problem solved. The "door" is the idle control valve. This is why I said initially that it is probably a sticky idle control valve. This means whoever did the initial throttle body cleanup on your car hasn't done a proper job.

The body style is different for Lancers some Asian countries. China, VietNam, Taiwan etc. Was the same for the CS Lancer.

Honestly, I think it's a lot better than how it used to look before. Maybe you can get some help from Dushyantha now.

Modern airbag systems are smart enough not to deploy spontaneously. The G sensor on the car needs to receive a signal in order to set off the airbag(s). So, unless there is a fault in the system, airbags will not deploy. On the CS Lancer, the G sensor is behind the dashboard, towards the centre of the car.

Well done! That's a pretty neat job. Looks like this is common on the CS Lancer. Had the same issue on my CS3 when I got it, but didn't worsen during the time I had the car, so I guess this happens as a result of parking under the hot sun regularly.