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Davy

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Everything posted by Davy

  1. Davy
    Threads merged. By the way, I think you're finally headed in the right direction by looking for a AC workshop. However, since the hot air is blown even with the AC off, I still believe it's either a duct flap that's stuck open or a leak in the firewall area causing hot air from the engine bay to be blown into the cabin while driving.
  2. Davy
    The idle RPM difference is likely to be due to the fact that the battery was disconnected during the repair which would have caused the ECU to reset. Drive about 20km and the ECU should re-learn. As for the flickering issue and Airbag warning light, it has to be something not connected properly after the repair. I'd check the ground wires and the alternator connector first. Then get a diagnostic scan done to find out the SRS system error code. Oh also... it's not the car that's stabbed you in the back, it was the garage. ? Why did you even drive the car off in that condition? Should have stayed there and demanded they fixed all the problems that they introduced during the repair. Anyway, good luck!
  3. Davy
    No offence, but what's the point in asking if you've waited one month already, and now worried if it'll last just two more days? If you're doing the repair on Saturday, don't drive the car for the next two days. If this was a general question about waiting on a blown head gasket, then I have to agree with iRage.
  4. Davy
    When you say that you had transmission fluid replaced every 30,000km, was it a drain and fill or a proper fluid change where the transmission oil pan was removed, cleaned and oil filter replaced? If you haven't done the latter, I suggest you get it done and observe the behaviour. While they are at it, ask them to inspect the valve body (especially the reverse gear solenoid) to ensure the o-rings are not leaking. A common cause of shift delays is due to low transmission oil pressure. If the oil level is okay, it's likely that the valve body o-rings are leaking.
  5. Davy
    Sounds like the fresh air vent is stuck open. It's either that or a rubber grommet on the firewall has come off. First check if you have the AC set to "fresh air" instead of "recirculate". If that's okay, take the blower motor out and observe the fresh/recirculate flap operation above the motor chamber. As you switch between the modes, the flap should move to open/close the fresh air duct.
  6. Davy
    @Dave8781 Stop spamming the forum with unnecessary threads. I must also warn you against creating a thread about every SUV (or Jeep in your words) that come into your mind. Thread locked.
  7. Davy
    The sensor at the end of the rubber hose you cleaned is the MAP sensor. From what I have learnt, it's common for the rubber hose to get blocked with carbon in these Diesel engines. Apparently Mitsubishi has addressed this issue in later model engines by relocating the EGR end of the hose before the actual EGR valve location. Your's being 2014, I assume this was the former version. Was the error you got "4WD Service Required" or just "Service Required"? I'm quite certain that they are two disconnected issues. On Mitsubishis with their AWC system, regular diagnostic scanners won't read DTCs from these systems. You have to use a Mitsubishi specific MUT3/Multi III diagnostic scanner to read issues in the AWC system. Anyway, glad you diagnosed the issue on your own and got it resolved. Kudos!
  8. Davy
    How about the 800hp Vega? Literally one of a kind at the moment. ? Apparently it's going to the Geneva Motorshow in March this year.
  9. Davy
    I'm afraid someone else would have to recommend a place. Not familiar with many places in Sri Lanka anymore. A consequence of living abroad. I remember @trinitygot one of his OZ wheels refurbished from a place in Slave Island if I'm not mistaken. JJ Lanka in Mount Lavinia also undertook alloy wheel repairs back in the day. But in all honesty, I think DIY is the best. If you have a drill, it'll make the job easier. You can use a grinding bit and take out the burs, smoothen the surface, and then use 400 through 1200 grit sandpaper to polish it (400, 800, 1200). Then use Brasso or another metal polish to finish it off. If the rim has clear coat, you will have to apply it off a rattle can or a touch up kit. Then wet sand and polish that also. A bit of elbow grease and a lot of patience needed. ?
  10. Davy
    You won't be able to follow steps in my DIY post because your alloys are diamond cut. The easiest fix would be to polish out the damage using a series of grinding bits and sandpaper (starting with coarse ones and moving on to smoother grit). Then use metal polish to get the shine back. From the photos, it looks like the diamond cut areas are clear coated as well. So you'll have to clear coat the area (or the whole wheel). Finally get the wheel balanced again.
  11. Davy
    I think I shared this before somewhere on the forum. But here they are in action. Sequential turn signals! ?
  12. Davy
    I was actually referring to the outer lens which is clear. ?
  13. Davy
    I used to work with @E L N I N O during 2009 - 2010 or so. Both of us had CS Lancers back then. Parked side by side in the office car park some days. So I'm quite aware of the personalities of the ladies. I can vouch that they have been treated with respect and care. ? About the tail lights... The earlier EXs came with a red tinted light while the later models came with a clear lens with black surround which looks bette IMO. There are some really nice tail lights for the EX, but I too like the stock tail lights. Also the stock projector headlights look awesome!
  14. Davy
    Try Auto Force on Sri Saranankara Road. My former workplace was close by and and many of my colleagues got their cars repaired and painted from there. I have heard good things about them. Take your car there and get them to give you a quote first. Their prices are a bit on the high side from memory.
  15. Davy
    @agent47, I've merged your two threads as they are related. Please stick to one thread to discuss this issue. You may also want to search the forum as Honda repair places and spare parts shops has been discussed before. Those prices look alright to me.
  16. Davy
    The manufacturer says strictly 98+ Octane for the 4B11T. My car's warranty booklet specifies that if anything lower than 98 is used, it will void the warranty. The owner's manual warns of potential engine damage as well. And then there's this on the fuel filler lid: If you read on pre-ignition, you will understand how destructive it can be. Basically, since the low octane fuel cannot withstand pressure as much as the intended fuel, it ignites before the piston reaches the end of the compression stroke. This creates massive pressure inside the combustion chamber and can cause damage (not instantly obviously). The most obvious side effect is that the engine can overheat due to the excessive pressure in the combustion chamber and the list goes on. So yeah, 98 for sure on most forced induction engines like the 4B11T.
  17. Davy
    Wasn't the CVT offered on the EX? Even on later model ones? As for compatibility, it depends on the ECU that's available with the engine for sale. If the ECU is for a manual transmission, then you have to go manual or swap the ECU as well to do CVT. I do wonder if any model with a 4B11 engine came with a conventional auto transmission instead of CVT. The EX GT came with this engine by the way. GT conversion? ?
  18. Davy
    1. Yes, the red dot takes precedence over the yellow dot. 2. If you did a wheel balance, it doesn't matter now. The dots are there so that you have a good starting balance. This helps because the number of wheel weights that need to be added to balance the wheel is less. 3. If the valve stem isn't damaged and doesn't leak, keep it.
  19. Davy
    1. They're mostly suspension repairs which are quite simple. 2. Yes, very likely to be the spark plugs or an issue in the ignition system.
  20. Davy
    If the fuel rail is loose, that's the first thing you have to get addressed. Given the error codes, it does look like one cylinder is behaving erratically.
  21. Davy
    Half a litre of oil being burnt per month is not normal. What's the mileage of the car? My advise would be to fix the oil burning problem because in your case, I believe it is contributing to the P0420. From what you have described, it could be oil clogging up your catalytic converter (explains the exhaust smell) , or a gasket leak. Even after the engine is fixed, you might continue to get the error code depending on the condition of the catalytic converter and downstream Oxygen sensor.
  22. Davy
    Best tyres I've ever used. Talking specifically of the RE003. They've been on my car for a couple of years now and they hold the road like crazy! Not sure if they're a bit overkill for a point A to B car that's mainly driven within city limits, because it's a performance tyre. But if you track the car or drive a car that's got decent power, then absolutely.
  23. Davy
    1. Manufacturers don't generally specify a replacement interval for timing chains. They are supposed to last as long as the engine. However, periodic inspections (say every 100K km) are advised to determine if the chain has wear or slack. Some modern cars even have wear/stretch indicators that cause a light to be illuminated on the dashboard. 2. As mentioned above, it should be lifetime with periodic inspections. Checking the vehicle workshop manual would confirm this. 3. Pretty much all modern petrol engines are interference because manufacturers try to achieve high compression ratios from smaller engines. As a user, it is important to understand that if the car has a timing belt, and if the engine is an interference type, the damage that can be caused if the belt snaps is far greater than on a non-interference type engine. Other than that, it doesn't really matter to a driver. 4. Interference
  24. Davy
    @MADZ Can you please look into this? Thanks! @Klord, please send MADZ a PM with your friend's email address and/or username.
  25. Davy
    While appreciating you sharing this information, please note that this thread is about car audio and GPS navigation, not GPS tracking. Also, 12,000 is expensive for a GPS tracker, unless you're tracking a fleet or something. There are so many cheap trackers on eBay for less than 3000. You can buy one of them and install a free app which gives all functionality.
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