Voltage Stabilizer

[kelum_wj]

Will the voltage stabilizer drain the Battery if the car is not used frequently ?

[shanX]

In your Maruti? Anyway are voltage stabilizers effective?

[kelum_wj]

Anyway are voltage stabilizers effective?

I think upto some extent

The stereo sounds louder and the idling has improved

Edited January 18, 2011 by kelum_wj

[kelum_wj]

In your Maruti? Anyway are voltage stabilizers effective?

[tiv]

Bringing up an old thread, just a question.. Experts please drop in a word..

Would voltage stabilizers have any effect on a Diesel?

and what would you do if you had a Dual battery setup?

Thanks

[Komisiripala]

Aren't you smack in the middle of final exams??

[tiv]

Hahaha thought of it during a 'break'

planning a heap of mods and DIYs for the post exam period..

Edited March 3, 2014 by tiv

[Komisiripala]

Hahaha thought of it during a 'break'

planning a heap of mods and DIYs for the post exam period..

aney bung. no better than your seniors no? ela ela. waren ko gedara

[Ripper]

Bringing up an old thread, just a question.. Experts please drop in a word..

Would voltage stabilizers have any effect on a Diesel?

and what would you do if you had a Dual battery setup?

Thanks

Stabilizer or the voltage regulator?

haven't seen stabis on cars myself...regulators yes

Regulators just ensure the voltage doesn't go beyond safe limits when revving up to prevent damage to battery and other electricals bits.

Since these are nowadays built into the alternator itself, dont see how there can be a drain since to my knowledge alternator circuit isn't powered without the ignition switch in "ON" position.

However...bad electronics in the rectifier/regulator unit on the alternator can end up not charging your battery properly.

On dual battery...assuming it's a 12v system stock and two batteries are wired for power and not voltage (wired parallel)

still there's no issue of a power drain

The only question is if the alternator power outing is enough to charge two batteries properly.

Each alternator has a max wattage capacity

[tiv]

Stabilizer or the voltage regulator?

haven't seen stabis on cars myself...regulators yes

Regulators just ensure the voltage doesn't go beyond safe limits when revving up to prevent damage to battery and other electricals bits.

Since these are nowadays built into the alternator itself, dont see how there can be a drain since to my knowledge alternator circuit isn't powered without the ignition switch in "ON" position.

However...bad electronics in the rectifier/regulator unit on the alternator can end up not charging your battery properly.

On dual battery...assuming it's a 12v system stock and two batteries are wired for power and not voltage (wired parallel)

still there's no issue of a power drain

The only question is if the alternator power outing is enough to charge two batteries properly.

Each alternator has a max wattage capacity

Yup its a 12V system factory spec wired parallel,

I was referring to the above unit, seen heaps for sale and they claim power gains and stable voltage with amps etc. Just wanted to know how n why,

and they fit in-between the battery terminals (if I am not mistaken), so what do you do when you got 4?

I've barely done 12k miles in it so the electrical bits are quite new,

Edited March 3, 2014 by tiv

[tiv]

aney bung. no better than your seniors no? ela ela. waren ko gedara

Lol you should definitely make a trip this time! and show that Teg some windy roads

[Rumesh88]

Yup its a 12V system factory spec wired parallel,

I was referring to the above unit, seen heaps for sale and they claim power gains and stable voltage with amps etc. Just wanted to know how n why,

and they fit in-between the battery terminals (if I am not mistaken), so what do you do when you got 4?

I've barely done 12k miles in it so the electrical bits are quite new,

This unit comes with two additional grounding connections. You can use one for the chassis grounding and other for the engine block or the audio system. As for the improvements, they could be marginal if the stock wiring is still good (less than 10 year old vehicle for example). However, they filter out the electrical noise and should provide an improvement in audio quality. There have been lots of arguments for and against the use of these stabilizers, hence take the manufacturers' hype with a pinch of salt. After all if you feel a difference after fixing the the unit that's what matters (same goes for the concoctions made of rhino horns! ) not what others say about it nor the trivial arguments.

[The Don]

Does anybody have any suggestions for old wiring. The voltage on my old Mitsu is certainly not what it used to be and everything goes dim when the head lights and the AC are both operating at the same time? I assume the first course of action is to clean the terminals and re seat battery connectors and grounding wires?

[Ripper]

Does anybody have any suggestions for old wiring. The voltage on my old Mitsu is certainly not what it used to be and everything goes dim when the head lights and the AC are both operating at the same time? I assume the first course of action is to clean the terminals and re seat battery connectors and grounding wires?

voltage does drop on thinner gauge wires and chances are as old they get, the resistance only increase.

this is why high heavy gauge wires are used for audio amps and stuff on cars.

not only for power handling but also to reduce voltage drop.

If it's just the headlights, why not use the stock wiring only to power a relay and have fresh wires from the battery switched though the relay to power the lights?

This way the stock wiring will only run the relay and they they very little power.

A direct line off the battery properly fused should sort it out imho

[Rumesh88]

Does anybody have any suggestions for old wiring. The voltage on my old Mitsu is certainly not what it used to be and everything goes dim when the head lights and the AC are both operating at the same time? I assume the first course of action is to clean the terminals and re seat battery connectors and grounding wires?

Before going for the fist course of action above, if possible take a couple of minutes to measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals and the alternator output between alternator body and its output terminal (taking care not to short circuit) with all electrical loads on and engine at 2000 rpm. If the difference between the two readings is in the region of 0.1V or more then you have a problem with the supply side wiring (could be the grounding connections, connectors, terminals etc). Usually most auto-electricians tend to focus on the load side losses but ignore those at the supply side. Just my 2 cents.