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Corolla Ae 110 Fuel Consumption Issues?


lkshan

Question

Dear Friends,

I owned Toyota corolla ae110(L-Grade) 1998 model which is automatic transmission. the problem is it does 9km/l maximum in city area. everybody says this model does 12km/l.

I have tied to driven it by changing different methods like managing the RPM, controlling the speed & gear shift timing. but the problem still exist.

I kindly requesting advise & Help from you experts to get my problem fixed.thank you in advance.

some more details as follows,

Engine-5A FE (done 200,000km)

the repairs recently have been done

Engine tune up

fuel filter & Air filter replacement

Timing belt replacement

(mechanic said the spark plugs can do some more KM as it still show pure white on the ceramic tip without any sign of worn but one more thing that i can see the distributor has been adjusted(advance) more than 3/4)

Edited by lkshan
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Dear Friends,

I owned Toyota corolla ae110(L-Grade) 1998 model which is automatic transmission. the problem is it does 9km/l maximum in city area. everybody says this model does 12km/l.

I have tied to driven it by changing different methods like managing the RPM, controlling the speed & gear shift timing. but the problem still exist.

I kindly requesting advise & Help from you experts to get my problem fixed.thank you in advance.

some more details as follows,

Engine-5A FE (done 200,000km)

the repairs recently have been done

Engine tune up

fuel filter & Air filter replacement

Timing belt replacement

(mechanic said the spark plugs can do some more KM as it still show pure white on the ceramic tip without any sign of worn but one more thing that i can see the distributor has been adjusted(advance) more than 3/4)

Well just check yr alignment as well, but on an average thats the rating these cars do in town, get a pollution report done you can check the proper reading and fuel wastage there. :sad-smiley-067:

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Thanks you very much for your kind reply.

@nilantha- I have change engine oil & Gear oil.

@chan5- actually I'm out side of colombo where there is no traffic

@camry300- I'm pretty sure there is no alignment problem as steering system is very smooth with no affect to the tyres. but I never gone though the emission test.

it would do any changes if I replace the spark plugs? could you please provide me if any one knows the correct make & the part number for these spark plugs. & cost as well

thank you very much.

Edited by lkshan
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I owned Toyota corolla ae110(L-Grade) 1998 model which is automatic transmission. the problem is it does 9km/l maximum in city area. everybody says this model does 12km/l.

You need to find a new "everybody". A 15 year old car with 200,000 shown? You can do what Nilantha and Camry said, there might be some gain, but I doubt there will be a remarkable improvement, not up to 12 anyway.

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check weather that your tyre size is exact as factory size.because when sometimes people change tyre sizes with alloy wheels, it gives undervalued speedometer.example , if you travel by 100kmph in real , your meter shows something like 90kmph, so does the odo, .if so you're getting wrong readings from your meter panel.

Edited by chan5
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I think it is normal in AE110, you can not get 12km/l in everywhere right?

Hope you believe my CE110 (Diesel) does 7.5-8.5km/l in extreme condition but it goes 18.5km/l in calm long running and mixed condition it does 10-12km/l

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thank you very much for your kind advices. I will try what you have said & let you know the improvement.

i can tel you one experiment. but it is not cheap. may be your auto gear box worn out also the engine. :speechless-smiley-006:

also if your tyre size is 175X70R13 then you can take some fuel efficiency. i think now you have 185X70R14

Edited by Nilantha
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i can tel you one experiment. but it is not cheap. may be your auto gear box worn out also the engine.

please ignore this retard,his condition is worse by now i guess ?

What are the parts which you're talking about , which affect the fuel efficiency so much ? Torque converter ? do you know what's inside autobox apart from the oil ?

Edited by chan5
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Can you explain this little bit ?

More scientifically?

i don't know how to explain.

i got experience when i using 165X70R13, my van was doing 100km from 6.5L now i use 185X70R14 now only can run 90km from 6.5L when do long run

Edited by Nilantha
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please ignore this retard,his condition is worse by now i guess ?

What are the parts which you're talking about , which affect the fuel efficiency so much ? Torque converter ? do you know what's inside autobox apart from the oil ?

seems you don't have general knoledge

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i don't know how to explain.

i got experience when i using 165X70R13, my van was doing 100km from 6.5L now i use 185X70R14 now only can run 90km from 6.5L when do long run

it's related to your tyre size as explained...

On 165X70R13(OEM) Your meter is working accurately according to manufacturer's calibration, so 100km in real world is 100km in your odo.

With 185X70R14, you're using a tyre with more diameter and it gives underrated values on your speedometer , odometer .

So 100km in real world will show low reading in your odometer (will say 90km).

I guess that's the reason for your change,you can go for pinpoint calculation with tyre size calculator if you need.

Basic Maths. . . . .

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i owned sprinter EE111 97 MODEL AND I ALSO Had This PROBLEM .........and

when i went to garage ,they checked and tald me to replace tha spark plugs.....and i replaced with genuine spark plugs,which cost me Rs.800/ each.from toyota lanka...now i get 14+ in long run & 12+ in short run

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it's related to your tyre size as explained...

On 165X70R13(OEM) Your meter is working accurately according to manufacturer's calibration, so 100km in real world is 100km in your odo.

With 185X70R14, you're using a tyre with more diameter and it gives underrated values on your speedometer , odometer .

So 100km in real world will show low reading in your odometer (will say 90km).

I guess that's the reason for your change,you can go for pinpoint calculation with tyre size calculator if you need.

Basic Maths. . . . .

brother, but from colombo my home to my kurunegala house i have to drive 82.5km. but after tyre change that distance never changed. but i have to pump fuel more. according to your method, can you give me a reason?

Edited by Nilantha
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brother, but from colombo my home to my kurunegala house i have to drive 82.5km. but after tyre change that distance never changed. but i have to pump fuel more. according to your method, can you give me a reason?

Because the odometer isn't using GPS to calculate distance. It is making an calculation based on the number of revolutions of the wheel. The distance the vehicle will travel is determinant on the diameter of the wheel. So the odometer will record an incorrect distance traveled if you have changed the diameter of the tyre from factory original.

The reason why you need to pump fuel is two fold. First the vehicle is now doing more work hence it requires more fuel (but one at this moment may argue that it is also travelling for longer for each revolution so technically these things should balance each other out). But there is also now more leverage required to turn the wheel as the outside end of the wheel is a longer distance away from the center of the wheel where force is applied. Now if the vehicle was designed for this diameter of wheel, the manufacturer would have compensated for this by altering the diff gears etc, but because this is your own modification this requires in the engine needing to work harder (you having to rev more to push it along) hence more fuel consumption.

If others can think of more explanations, please share!

PS. I've suddenly realised Chan5 has given the same explanation as me a few posts above, so credits due to him.

Edited by The Don
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Because the odometer isn't using GPS to calculate distance. It is making an calculation based on the number of revolutions of the wheel. The distance the vehicle will travel is determinant on the diameter of the wheel. So the odometer will record an incorrect distance traveled if you have changed the diameter of the tyre from factory original.

The reason why you need to pump fuel is two fold. First the vehicle is now doing more work hence it requires more fuel (but one at this moment may argue that it is also travelling for longer for each revolution so technically these things should balance each other out). But there is also now more leverage required to turn the wheel as the outside end of the wheel is a longer distance away from the center of the wheel where force is applied. Now if the vehicle was designed for this diameter of wheel, the manufacturer would have compensated for this by altering the diff gears etc, but because this is your own modification this requires in the engine needing to work harder (you having to rev more to push it along) hence more fuel consumption.

If others can think of more explanations, please share!

PS. I've suddenly realised Chan5 has given the same explanation as me a few posts above, so credits due to him.

Slapping on the wider tire would have an effect too. More contact, more grip, more force needed, tire would weigh more, etc.

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Mine did around 10kmpl (with 4 people). After a gearbox change it has come down to about 9kmpl, of course the driver is different and only one person and his stuff in the car.

I have 185/65R14s. You maybe able to do better if you have the manufacturers standard rim and tyre size. Also you may need to take into account what sorta running you do. Some times short distance running can be the issue since the engine is not given sufficient time to get into running temperature.

But if I were you I will not worry about it doing 9kmpls, after all its a 13 year old car and even modern day cars do worse.

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I have simple question, according to basic physics the force (F) of friction is equal to U (coefficient of friction ) multiply by weight of the object ® in horizontal plane, ie: F=UR

It doesnt contain anything regarding surface area.

"U" depends on the surface (Road and Tire) and "R" depends on the weight of the vehicle.

So how a wider tire tire affect the friction apart from the additional weight?

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I have simple question, according to basic physics the force (F) of friction is equal to U (coefficient of friction ) multiply by weight of the object ® in horizontal plane, ie: F=UR

It doesnt contain anything regarding surface area.

"U" depends on the surface (Road and Tire) and "R" depends on the weight of the vehicle.

So how a wider tire tire affect the friction apart from the additional weight?

simple,

the above equation applies for (F=úR) dynamic friction, which means two surfaces should slip each other to apply that.(ex-a moving carrom disk).

What a car need is limiting frictional force, which is the friction which applies when tyre is not skidding, as it roll on road. Yes it's depend on the surface area and grip pattern. That's why we see rough and wide tyres on off road vehicles, the tyre is resistant to skid , but when it starts skidding (by exceeding limiting friction) it makes NO difference with a regular tyre.

So high grip tyres on regular roads make it more load on drivetrain which results in poor fuel figures.

Narrower the tyre, higher the efficiency and lower the safety.

Since some hybrids are so keen on fuel consumption , you can see narrower tyres on prius compared to axio....(can't remember the exact sizes though)

Edited by chan5
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@ chan5,

thanks for the informative reply.

Is there any formula for friction which include surface area?

As far as I know static and kinetic friction only differs because of "U" (coefficient of friction) not the surface area.

The wider tire in off road use is probably because they are not sinking in mud.

And the tire surface is NOT moving relative to road surface in a given point unless the tire is slipping.

Just see following link

http://ffden-2.phys.uaf.edu/211_fall2002.web.dir/ben_townsend/staticandkineticfriction.htm

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