Weird Transmission Problem

[GayanR]

Hi guys,I have a fb14 auto with a GA15de engine.When i select gears from P to D or P to R car just jumps forward and backwards bit hard.I do keep applying breaks.But the shiftings are really smooth when driving and there's no delay in engaging gears.I have replaced all my engine and transmission mounts.But the problem still exist.No the car doesn't idle high.Can the gear lever bearings lead to this problem because i feel like the gear lever is bit loose.(no it doesn't jump i just feel like) or can it be a ecu issue??

Note:This is my second transmission unit (i have replaced with a reasonably good used one) but the old one had the same problem.

Note:It's only when selecting P to D or P to R,R to D or like wise if i select P or N to direct 1,2 it doesn't jerk.

Edited December 13, 2012 by GayanR

[jana]

Hi Gayan,

First of all this is not a weird problem, it is usual in all auto cars, please check your gear box mount, and tight them properly. this will solve your problem

[GayanR]

  On 12/13/2012 at 6:26 AM, jana said:

Hi Gayan,

First of all this is not a weird problem, it is usual in all auto cars, please check your gear box mount, and tight them properly. this will solve your problem

HIi i can grantee you that all mounts are placed perfectly.

[GayanR]

Does anyone know where to find the universal joint in my car

[GayanR]

Guys can you plain explain me about U joints are they on the drive shafts?and how many are there?

[terrabytetango]

There is always a light jerk in the cheaper cars. My Vios actually lurches forward when I shift into D with only a light foot on the brakes. The jerk is the different oil circuits re-pressurizing after passing Neutral/Park. That's why you don't get a jerk when shifting from D to 3 or 2 whatever other forward gears you have. The system is already under pressure.

Edited December 13, 2012 by terrabytetango

[GayanR]

  On 12/13/2012 at 12:25 PM, terrabytetango said:

There is always a light jerk in the cheaper cars. My Vios actually lurches forward when I shift into D with only a light foot on the brakes. The jerk is the different oil circuits re-pressurizing after passing Neutral/Park. That's why you don't get a jerk when shifting from D to 3 or 2 whatever other forward gears you have. The system is already under pressure.

HI terra tanx for the info..Anyway in my one i just can't ignore the feeling.It's so hard that i feel like it would break the mounts.it's jerks that hard.I googled the symptom's and found out it's because of bad u joints in the drive shaft..

are there cv joints on both side if this axle?where it connect to transmission?tanx

Edited December 13, 2012 by GayanR

[The Don]

  On 12/13/2012 at 12:47 PM, GayanR said:

HI terra tanx for the info..Anyway in my one i just can't ignore the feeling.It's so hard that i feel like it would break the mounts.it's jerks that hard.I googled the symptom's and found out it's because of bad u joints in the drive shaft..

are there cv joints on both side if this axle?where it connect to transmission?tanx

Yes there are CV joints on both sides of the drive shafts and while one (the one on the wheel side) you can replace by itself the other on the gearbox side is integrated to the shaft so you have to replace the shaft, at least this is what I've observed in the vehicles I've had.

You can only buy the entire unit brand new at considerable cost. A used item sourced from Delkanda maybe a more economical (and practical) replacement here if you can't afford the brand new item.

A machine shop can also temporally repair it by filling in the worn out side.

But first check if they are actually worn out.

[GayanR]

  On 12/13/2012 at 1:35 PM, The Don said:

Yes there are CV joints on both sides of the drive shafts and while one (the one on the wheel side) you can replace by itself the other on the gearbox side is integrated to the shaft so you have to replace the shaft, at least this is what I've observed in the vehicles I've had.

You can only buy the entire unit brand new at considerable cost. A used item sourced from Delkanda maybe a more economical (and practical) replacement here if you can't afford the brand new item.

A machine shop can also temporally repair it by filling in the worn out side.

But first check if they are actually worn out.

Thanks don.I have replaced both wheel side cv joints before.so guess now its transmission side.If its intergrated my bad.have to check.Do you know how roughly the price will be brand new vs used one.tanx

Edited December 13, 2012 by GayanR

[The Don]

  On 12/13/2012 at 1:41 PM, GayanR said:

Thanks don.I have replaced both wheel side cv joints before.so guess now its transmission side.If its intergrated my bad.have to check.Do you know how roughly the price will be brand new vs used one.tanx

Gayan, I have no idea about current prices. But in 1998 Car Mart quoted 17000 for the CV joint and drive shaft (I think) while the CV joint from Panchikawatte (I think the brand was JDK or something) was 3250.

[rasikan]

@GayanR Does this issue solved?? Any update. Coz im facing the same issue

[Twin Turbo]

What's your idle speed?

[Twin Turbo]

  On 5/8/2023 at 4:00 AM, Twin Turbo said:

What's your idle speed?

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As a high idle speed will do this

[matroska]

  On 5/7/2023 at 4:17 AM, rasikan said:

@GayanR Does this issue solved?? Any update. Coz im facing the same issue

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This thread is over 10 years old and GayaR seems to be inactive since 2021. I doubt you will get a reply to this 🙂 but maybe other members might be able to shed some light