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Car Warming Up


kmcsb

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my eg8 gets abut 5-7 minutes to warm to operation temperature (to idle)..alos even after 20 miutes my tempeture needle @bottom....to get normal temperature( needle as it for middle) gets more then 45miutes....

also when i parked my car and start it after 30 miutes its also try to warming up then idle in 2miutes..this is getting me a headache...and i feel im getting poor milage also..

i did throttle body cleanup and IACV clean also..but no sucess..is it a bad thermostat..????.

if it is hw much it willbe???

or any fault...???

plz help..

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="cmxjn" data-cid="231302" data-time="1359186153"><p>

Could be the thermostat stuck open</p></blockquote> May be some makabas has removed the thermostat before you got the car! Its around 4000rs.

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I chked when temperure needle comes 1/4 up the radiator fan become to rotate.. I think temp sensor gone bad too.. Today i travel 25km since morning but needle still @ little bit below in middle.. Thts means engine getting more time to heat..so is tht mean tht is delivered more fuel and air too...pls help guys..

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I chked when temperure needle comes 1/4 up the radiator fan become to rotate.. I think temp sensor gone bad too.. Today i travel 25km since morning but needle still @ little bit below in middle.. Thts means engine getting more time to heat..so is tht mean tht is delivered more fuel and air too...pls help guys..

Man, the parts involved are not that expensive. The problem is either with the temp sensor, the thermostatic valve or the fan circuit. Sounds like your fan circuit is ok so its probably the other two.

Take it to a competent mechanic and sort it out.

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I chked when temperure needle comes 1/4 up the radiator fan become to rotate.. I think temp sensor gone bad too.. Today i travel 25km since morning but needle still @ little bit below in middle.. Thts means engine getting more time to heat..so is tht mean tht is delivered more fuel and air too...pls help guys..

The way you sound, more than the issue with temperature you seem to have a serious problem with your fuel consumption and trying to relate it to your engine temperature. Am I right? Of course the system will deliver a little more fuel (not air except in idle!) when the engine is cold but if the fuel consumption is significantly high (let's say 20% offset from norm), then there must be another issue and you may have to get your engine tuned. Nevertheless you have to ensure that your engine can be brought to its correct working temperature within 5 minutes of starting (unless of course you live in a very cold area) before performing a tune up. As Don says above it is not a very costly thing to replace the things required. However, if the fan starts at 1/4 mark have your fan thermostat checked or replaced with a one operating at the correct temperature for this engine. Also I suspect that someone has removed your thermostat valve to keep the engine "cool". Also keep in mind to run the car for few days under careful supervision if you do all corrections and manage to bring the temperature up because now that you have run it for sometime on low temperature, there can be parts like radiator main and bypass hoses which are not used to withstand the high radiator pressure and temperature tending to burst.

Edited by Rumesh88
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The way you sound, more than the issue with temperature you seem to have a serious problem with your fuel consumption and trying to relate it to your engine temperature. Am I right? Of course the system will deliver a little more fuel (not air except in idle!) when the engine is cold but if the fuel consumption is significantly high (let's say 20% offset from norm), then there must be another issue and you may have to get your engine tuned. Nevertheless you have to ensure that your engine can be brought to its correct working temperature within 5 minutes of starting (unless of course you live in a very cold area) before performing a tune up. As Don says above it is not a very costly thing to replace the things required. However, if the fan starts at 1/4 mark have your fan thermostat checked or replaced with a one operating at the correct temperature for this engine. Also I suspect that someone has removed your thermostat valve to keep the engine "cool". Also keep in mind to run the car for few days under careful supervision if you do all corrections and manage to bring the temperature up because now that you have run it for sometime on low temperature, there can be parts like radiator main and bypass hoses which are not used to withstand the high radiator pressure and temperature tending to burst.

yep you right..i have an issue of fuel consumption and searched for an solution..although more research i fairly finds out the temp problem...mentioned above i did several things carb cleanups,spark plugs ,wires ,rotor ,idle valve cleanup..but no use.ahh anyway macn i live in kotte,colombo. normally tmorning temp maybe 25c around...thn backto topic ,i fells my car gets more time to warm up comparing other vehicles..

yesterday i visited to garage to show this error and told him abut this problem..first he ignored thn i start car abut nearly 15 minutes..also its just took 25 minute's to drive to garage..so totally it's half an hour and still its just low on middle point...thn he accept there might a problem...

and sometimes water coming out of tail pipe..first i thought it was in good shape(good tuneup)..now i think it was coolant..

he told me to rplaze both thermstat and sensore too.. (mostley maka bas arout here as H.C mentioned)asked teck they offered rs10000 both..

so guys waht you think which part should i afford first????

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most probably someone have removed the thermostat to prevent a heating issue. Take it to a proper mechanic and see weather thermostat is intact. If you put a thermostat, just check the condition of the radiator as well and as Rumesh said, drive her with frequent eye on temp gauge. Themostat comes first in my list.

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yep you right..i have an issue of fuel consumption and searched for an solution..although more research i fairly finds out the temp problem...mentioned above i did several things carb cleanups,spark plugs ,wires ,rotor ,idle valve cleanup..but no use.ahh anyway macn i live in kotte,colombo. normally tmorning temp maybe 25c around...thn backto topic ,i fells my car gets more time to warm up comparing other vehicles..

yesterday i visited to garage to show this error and told him abut this problem..first he ignored thn i start car abut nearly 15 minutes..also its just took 25 minute's to drive to garage..so totally it's half an hour and still its just low on middle point...thn he accept there might a problem...

and sometimes water coming out of tail pipe..first i thought it was in good shape(good tuneup)..now i think it was coolant..

he told me to rplaze both thermstat and sensore too.. (mostley maka bas arout here as H.C mentioned)asked teck they offered rs10000 both..

so guys waht you think which part should i afford first????

You can test the thermostatic sensor, thermostatic switch for the radiator fan, thermostatic valve before you opt to replace particularly if they cost in the region of 10K.

What is your car?

You do need a water temperature meter for this. All of these parts react to certain temperatures. So you need to boil the water to their operating temperature and check their operation.

This link explains how to test a Mitsubishi system

http://manual.pajero4x4.ru/?wpfb_dl=3571

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My car is eg8 single car with d15b jdm.. I inspect cooling system and feels my radiator like new maybe preivus owner had replzed it..and chked around for leaks and thank god coudnt find any...

Perhaps i feel my thermostats life has expired so its not funtions correctly..

Also last year i just flush and replz coolent wth caltex brand ..

Wht do you think guys may i go thostat first??

My garge guy told tht t-stat would be nearly 2000.. But teck askd me 4700..ohh do you knw any othr plz to buy cheaper around maradhana..???

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="H.C" data-cid="231613" data-time="1359470747"><p>

most probably someone have removed the thermostat to prevent a heating issue. Take it to a proper mechanic and see weather thermostat is intact. If you put a thermostat, just check the condition of the radiator as well and as Rumesh said, drive her with frequent eye on temp gauge. Themostat comes first in my list.</p></blockquote>

Machan do you where is FITV (fast idle thermo valve) located in our engine..i looked aroud but unable to find it.. I alredy cleand idle control valve..do you know where is it?

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="kmcsb" data-cid="231628" data-time="1359481601"><p>

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="H.C" data-cid="231613" data-time="1359470747"><p><br />

most probably someone have removed the thermostat to prevent a heating issue. Take it to a proper mechanic and see weather thermostat is intact. If you put a thermostat, just check the condition of the radiator as well and as Rumesh said, drive her with frequent eye on temp gauge. Themostat comes first in my list.</p></blockquote><br />

Machan do you where is FITV (fast idle thermo valve) located in our engine..i looked aroud but unable to find it.. I alredy cleand idle control valve..do you know where is it?</p></blockquote>Actually my motor is D15b3, so it doesnt hav that. (Non JDM)Do your one have an ECU?

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yesterday i visited to garage to show this error and told him abut this problem..first he ignored thn i start car abut nearly 15 minutes..also its just took 25 minute's to drive to garage..so totally it's half an hour and still its just low on middle point...thn he accept there might a problem...

and sometimes water coming out of tail pipe..first i thought it was in good shape(good tuneup)..now i think it was coolant..

he told me to rplaze both thermstat and sensore too.. (mostley maka bas arout here as H.C mentioned)asked teck they offered rs10000 both..

so guys waht you think which part should i afford first????

It is quite normal for the majority of local mechanics to ignore temperature issues unless they are serious enough to cause boiling and spilling over. But all modern engines (Post-1980) require that they operate at the correct temperature for max efficiency. What made you think that it was the coolant that came out of the tailpipe? Don't even dream about it. It's a very serious problem if that's the case. Are you losing the coolant on a regular basis? When you open the radiator cap in the morning do you have to fill a bit? If that's the case first make sure you find radiator leaks, if any, and seal them off before doing other things.

Usually if your cooling system is operating correctly your temperature indicator should be at the middle within 5 minutes and/or 500m driving. However, here we all assume that your temperature indicator is accurate enough! Also you've indicated that your radiator had been replaced. Just do a comparison and see if the replacement radiator is over sized (JDM radiators are usually a bit smaller or comes with a single core). But this is not an issue as long as ur thermostat valve and the fan is set to operate correctly. First see if the thermo valve had been removed. If that's the case as H.C. pointed out u've got to replace it anyway.

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i means when i start the car and walit a few seconds a few water is coing out from tailpipe..t thought its like coolent..(but no colour similer like water)...yes machan new radiator is jdm and single core also...i think its better to buy a t-stat anyway...

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i means when i start the car and walit a few seconds a few water is coing out from tailpipe..t thought its like coolent..(but no colour similer like water)...yes machan new radiator is jdm and single core also...i think its better to buy a t-stat anyway...

Don't know if you've got this point that many has pointed out to you. You should only but the thermostatic valve if its

1. Either not there at all

2. Is there and not working

Else it will be a waste of money.

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i means when i start the car and walit a few seconds a few water is coing out from tailpipe..t thought its like coolent..(but no colour similer like water)...yes machan new radiator is jdm and single core also...i think its better to buy a t-stat anyway...

It is highly unlikely you get coolant out from your tailpipe. Also your's being a carb model do not expect significant fuel savings after you correct the cooling system. BTW did you get your carb cleaned at anytime and how is your idle speed?

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It is highly unlikely you get coolant out from your tailpipe. Also your's being a carb model do not expect significant fuel savings after you correct the cooling system. BTW did you get your carb cleaned at anytime and how is your idle speed?

yes machan i understand...an year ago i replzed my distributor....alos i had to renve my license and didi emmison test ..@tht time i saw my idle was 940.tht is preety much highr..isnt it..???last time it was 690...(2 yers ago)

also tht report i saw my HC PPm was high tooo...

so after replzmy t-stat..i just want to do a tuneup also...

machan what are the stranded ignition timing...alos wht is tht degrees???

what parts should i need to watch for get more fuel efficiency to my car back...normally carbs does 10-12kmpl...mine only 6-7...

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yes machan i understand...an year ago i replzed my distributor....alos i had to renve my license and didi emmison test ..@tht time i saw my idle was 940.tht is preety much highr..isnt it..???last time it was 690...(2 yers ago)

also tht report i saw my HC PPm was high tooo...

so after replzmy t-stat..i just want to do a tuneup also...

machan what are the stranded ignition timing...alos wht is tht degrees???

what parts should i need to watch for get more fuel efficiency to my car back...normally carbs does 10-12kmpl...mine only 6-7...

Idle RPM for this model should be 800 but even 700 would do if the engine can be tuned to run smoothly at this speed. Which year is this car?

To have a general idea of your carb first take a look at the carb window and see if the fuel level is at the middle when the car is parked on a reasonably level ground and engine on idle. If it is slightly below mid-mark you need not worry but if it is above the mark you will have ask your mechanic to adjust the level. If this is correct open the air-cleaner and peep through the carb barrel while the engine is on a idle run. At this stage you should not see any fuel delivered to the carb barrel (it is delivered through the idle path which you would not be able to see). Then slowly increase the RPM and you should begin to see fuel being sprayed into the barrel at around 1200 rpm and beyond. See if the fuel is delivered in the form of a misty spray not in large droplets. If it comes out in droplets then you may have to do a clean up. Beyond this point you need to refer the matter to ur mechanic. Was ur carb dismantled at anytime in the past? If so you need to ensure that the internal fuel jets are of the correct size.

As for the question on ignition timing, pls read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing. Unlike for mechanical contact points, there is no static timing reading for these vehicles but it is set dynamically and should be something like 16 degrees at a certain RPM as specified in the repair manual for your model. If can find a mech with a timing torch u can get him to observe timing.

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yes machan i understand...an year ago i replzed my distributor....alos i had to renve my license and didi emmison test ..@tht time i saw my idle was 940.tht is preety much highr..isnt it..???last time it was 690...(2 yers ago)

also tht report i saw my HC PPm was high tooo...

so after replzmy t-stat..i just want to do a tuneup also...

machan what are the stranded ignition timing...alos wht is tht degrees???

what parts should i need to watch for get more fuel efficiency to my car back...normally carbs does 10-12kmpl...mine only 6-7...

look for any fuel leak from tank to carb + any other return lines, also check silencer barrel condition

Edited by aps
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