Help With My New Cs3

[vidura]

today i got ELM327 scanner and tried to connect through the torque free version but application says Scanner cannot connect to the vehicle ECU

anyone able to work with ELM327? or any better software to communicate?

[Chathurike]

does any one know from whre can i replace these interior parts in my Lancer CS1 ??

[Rumesh88]

today i got ELM327 scanner and tried to connect through the torque free version but application says Scanner cannot connect to the vehicle ECU

anyone able to work with ELM327? or any better software to communicate?

No you cannot do that because the initial protocol is different. You need the paid version of torque which has an option to insert a custom header to the protocol. If you can connect to your ELM327 as a Com port then you can try the method explained i post #120.

[Davy]

does any one know from whre can i replace these interior parts in my Lancer CS1 ??

What's wrong with the ones you have? I remember that some early CS1s didn't have the insulation, doesn't yours have them too?

The agents will get them down for you but at a very high price. Best bet would be to hunt around Delkanda to see if you can find a half cut with the parts still on (There is a white half cut CEDIA in a shop close to Kottawa. Saw another one around but can't remember where). Even if you find one, you'll have to get the seller to agree to give you just the parts you need.

[vidura]

No you cannot do that because the initial protocol is different. You need the paid version of torque which has an option to insert a custom header to the protocol. If you can connect to your ELM327 as a Com port then you can try the method explained i post #120.

im having the paid version of torque can i know which protocal that i need to select and where from the app?

[vidura]

No you cannot do that because the initial protocol is different. You need the paid version of torque which has an option to insert a custom header to the protocol. If you can connect to your ELM327 as a Com port then you can try the method explained i post #120.

i used the command that u mentioned ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 by adding as custom command under car profile but still it not connecting to ECU

[carson]

hi fellas, sorry I was kept away for some time. Happy to see this thread progressed so much.

I've driven my CS3 for about 1 1/2 months.

I drive daily during busy hours in traffic within town. I get around 9Km/L. I enquired the agents and they say its good.

Any ideas?

[Chathurike]

What's wrong with the ones you have? I remember that some early CS1s didn't have the insulation, doesn't yours have them too?

The agents will get them down for you but at a very high price. Best bet would be to hunt around Delkanda to see if you can find a half cut with the parts still on (There is a white half cut CEDIA in a shop close to Kottawa. Saw another one around but can't remember where). Even if you find one, you'll have to get the seller to agree to give you just the parts you need.

yeh its a 2004 cs1 and doesn't have any and thnx for the tip. ill try

Edited February 11, 2014 by Chathurike

[vidura]

hi fellas, sorry I was kept away for some time. Happy to see this thread progressed so much.

I've driven my CS3 for about 1 1/2 months.

I drive daily during busy hours in traffic within town. I get around 9Km/L. I enquired the agents and they say its good.

Any ideas?

after tuneup my one doing 10KMPL in city and done 13KMPL in kandy trip. But still some people are saying it should do more like 10-12 in city

[The Don]

after tuneup my one doing 10KMPL in city and done 13KMPL in kandy trip. But still some people are saying it should do more like 10-12 in city

Those people live in the stars

[nagaya]

Exactly. That's paid version of Torque. Before you spend on the app you can try it by opening a terminal on whatever the com port (I used Terminal 1.9b simple but versatile serial com) your ELM327 appear on. Then send the following from a text file.

ATIB 96

ATIIA 13

ATSH8213F0

ATSP4

0100

Then you get a reply from the ECU with current status.

It worked on two Toyota JDM OBD IIs. Unfortunately once I confirmed I could hack it, I lost the interest and stopped pursuing it further. That of course is one of my weaknesses.

I tried these codes on my CS3A YOM2011

It didn't work any other AT commands if someone used to connect to the ECU using ELM327 (cheap ebay one)

Check the image

[Davy]

Welcome to the forum nagaya.

Nice to see so many people trying to get this to work on the CS3. I gave up after little effort, but seeing all this makes me want to start again and get this to work.

I'll share a bit of research I did some time back when I was trying this out. I didn't go as far as opening a terminal and sending the commands because I found an extensive list of statistics done on various vehicles with ELM327 and the results (success/failure) and 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6L (which is what I have) had not been successful in connecting. Check the link below for more info:
http://emotionaltouch.myweb.hinet.net/c_OBDII/ELM327_tested.htm

Further, since Mitsubishi communicates using the MUT protocol, I was looking for a way to do this over OBDII and I did find a list of commands to be sent over a terminal but I did not try it out. They seem to be a bit different from what Rumesh has shared. Try the link below:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/7422846-post11.html

Also, a whole different approach specific to Mitsubishi vehicles is available in www.evoscan.com. The Lancer specific diagnostic information is shared in the page below:
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-vehicle-manuals/12-mitsubishi-diagnostics

The above method also works only on 2007+ Lancers, so my car was out of the question.

Hope someone finds this information useful.

[nagaya]

Thanks a lot for the valuable information Davy. I will give it a try and let you know the results.

Here are some information on my adaptor. I can connect to it but not the ECU on torque.

According to the terminal results, it seems the BUS (may be CAN BUS ?) can't be initilized in the first place.

[vidura]

Thanks a lot for the valuable information Davy. I will give it a try and let you know the results.

Here are some information on my adaptor. I can connect to it but not the ECU on torque.

According to the terminal results, it seems the BUS (may be CAN BUS ?) can't be initilized in the first place.

Same output for me as well

[Rumesh88]

@nagaya - Since your serial connection is working now it is a matter of fiddling with the header and initial protocol. I did not have time to go through links given by Davy in detail but they seem to be really useful.

@Davy +1 for the information.

[vidura]

Hi

Mi car idle RPM vary between 750- 850

But some time while in the traffic idle RPM increase to more than 1000 (nearly 1200) sometime it comes to 850. Also i have some feeling it has more acceleration when i release the paddle (that is it takes some times (10-15 sec) to come to normal 850 rpm.

Is it normal or any issue?

[Davy]

Hi

Mi car idle RPM vary between 750- 850

But some time while in the traffic idle RPM increase to more than 1000 (nearly 1200) sometime it comes to 850. Also i have some feeling it has more acceleration when i release the paddle (that is it takes some times (10-15 sec) to come to normal 850 rpm.

Is it normal or any issue?

The recommended idle RPM of the CS3 is 750 ± 50. As long as the car maintains the RPM within this range, you are OK. This of course excludes the first few minutes after a cold start because the engine idle mechanism raises the idle RPM to about 1200 in order to get it to operating temperature soon. Again, this is normal.

I'm guessing that the symptom in traffic occurs at the moment your AC compressor disengages. I have experienced the same and this is due to the Idle Control Valve (ICV) being sticky. This unfortunately is not normal. You feel as if it takes 10 - 15 seconds to come back to normal because the AC compressor engages again at about that time, and the RPM drops back to normal.

Does this happen all the time? When was the last time you did an EFI tune-up?

Edited April 5, 2014 by Davy

[vidura]

The recommended idle RPM of the CS3 is 750 ± 50. As long as the car maintains the RPM within this range, you are OK. This of course excludes the first few minutes after a cold start because the engine idle mechanism raises the idle RPM to about 1200 in order to get it to operating temperature soon. Again, this is normal.

I'm guessing that the symptom in traffic occurs at the moment your AC compressor disengages. I have experienced the same and this is due to the Idle Control Valve (ICV) being sticky. This unfortunately is not normal. You feel as if it takes 10 - 15 seconds to come back to normal because the AC compressor engages again at about that time, and the RPM drops back to normal.

Does this happen all the time? When was the last time you did an EFI tune-up?

I done tune up 2000Km back.

The issue notice during the traffic while AC is off but blower is working.

other think my RPM vary on 750-850 without AC and with AC it is 1000

Edited April 5, 2014 by vidura

[Davy]

I done tune up 2000Km back.

The issue notice during the traffic while AC is off but blower is working.

other think my RPM vary on 750-850 without AC and with AC it is 1000

Right. So you're saying that the RPM fluctuation doesn't have a connection of whether the AC is on or off. Correct? Or is it that it goes over 1000 particularly when the AC is on?

When you said tuneup, did they take the throttle body and clean that as well?

Are you noticing all this after the tuneup or was this there all along?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to rule out certain other issues before confirming that it's a faulty ICV. For now it does sound like the ICV gets stuck randomly.

[vidura]

Right. So you're saying that the RPM fluctuation doesn't have a connection of whether the AC is on or off. Correct? Or is it that it goes over 1000 particularly when the AC is on?

When you said tuneup, did they take the throttle body and clean that as well?

Are you noticing all this after the tuneup or was this there all along?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to rule out certain other issues before confirming that it's a faulty ICV. For now it does sound like the ICV gets stuck randomly.

RPM fluctuation noticed during without AC and didnt check with AC

When i on AC idle RPM 1000 always

yes don throttle body cleanup during tuneup

I just brought and done the tuneup and no idea about before that. Put i noticed this issue after running nearly 1500km after tuneup

[Davy]

RPM fluctuation noticed during without AC and didnt check with AC

When i on AC idle RPM 1000 always

yes don throttle body cleanup during tuneup

I just brought and done the tuneup and no idea about before that. Put i noticed this issue after running nearly 1500km after tuneup

Since the tune-up has been done only recently, we can rule out a dirty throttle body which can cause high idle RPM. The next possibility is a leaking vacuum line. Do a visual inspection around the throttle body to see if one or more vacuum lines are leaking. As for the fluctuating idle, check if your PCV valve is working properly and if the connecting tube is not blocked.

If everything is fine, it's most likely a sticky ICV. Cleaning it should solve the issue.

[vidura]

Since the tune-up has been done only recently, we can rule out a dirty throttle body which can cause high idle RPM. The next possibility is a leaking vacuum line. Do a visual inspection around the throttle body to see if one or more vacuum lines are leaking. As for the fluctuating idle, check if your PCV valve is working properly and if the connecting tube is not blocked.

If everything is fine, it's most likely a sticky ICV. Cleaning it should solve the issue.

thnx for the quick replies. I will check the vacuum lines and PCV.

How we can check the PCV and tube for blocking? Do i need to go to garage for that?

can we remove and clean the ICV valve without removing complete throttle body?

[Davy]

thnx for the quick replies. I will check the vacuum lines and PCV.

How we can check the PCV and tube for blocking? Do i need to go to garage for that?

can we remove and clean the ICV valve without removing complete throttle body?

To check the PCV, do the following:

Remove the PCV from the crank case end first. Then remove the hose on the other end of the PCV from the intake manifold. Finally, remove the hose from the other end of the PCV. Now you should have the PCV and the hose separately. Make sure the hose is not clogged.

If the PCV is working properly, it should not allow any air to travel from the intake manifold end to the crank case end. It should allow free flow on the other direction. You can carefully blow from both ends of the PCV to ensure that the above behaviour is what you get. I remember the workshop manual describing the insertion of a small wire from the crank case end of the PCV to make sure that the valve is operating, but blowing should suffice IMO. Make sure you wipe the PCV to make sure no oil gets into your mouth. Do a search, there were several threads on how to clean the PCV as well.

To your second question: Yes, you can remove the ICV without having to remove the entire throttle body. All you need is a philips screwdriver to take off the air intake assembly and the three screws holdiing the ICV onto the throttle body. Make sure you place the ICV gasket carefully to avoid vacuum leaks.

[vidura]

To check the PCV, do the following:

Remove the PCV from the crank case end first. Then remove the hose on the other end of the PCV from the intake manifold. Finally, remove the hose from the other end of the PCV. Now you should have the PCV and the hose separately. Make sure the hose is not clogged.

If the PCV is working properly, it should not allow any air to travel from the intake manifold end to the crank case end. It should allow free flow on the other direction. You can carefully blow from both ends of the PCV to ensure that the above behaviour is what you get. I remember the workshop manual describing the insertion of a small wire from the crank case end of the PCV to make sure that the valve is operating, but blowing should suffice IMO. Make sure you wipe the PCV to make sure no oil gets into your mouth. Do a search, there were several threads on how to clean the PCV as well.

To your second question: Yes, you can remove the ICV without having to remove the entire throttle body. All you need is a philips screwdriver to take off the air intake assembly and the three screws holdiing the ICV onto the throttle body. Make sure you place the ICV gasket carefully to avoid vacuum leaks.

Great and clear information thank you for every thing

I will try it this weekend.

[Davy]

Great and clear information thank you for every thing

I will try it this weekend.

Glad I could help. Awaiting your updates after the weekend. Good luck!