Engine Knock Sound

[osanda19]

hi guys.i have a toyota vitz(scp10) 1000cc YOM 2001..which has done 135000km on the clock (100% genuine)

since last month when i accelerate the car (while driving only)something like engine knock sound("kata kata") something like rattle sound (but not a engine knock) coming from engine after few seconds its vanished.but no any difference with engine performance ..pickup or gear changing.last week i did a engine tuneup & sensors checked .but no luck with that too.my mechanic says he cant predict it tooo because car performance is very well...what should i have to check now?does any one had a similar problem like this??pls guys help me

Edited April 7, 2015 by osanda19

[bycap]

does this happen only when you accelerate ?

are the engine mounts and gearbox mount good ? may be broken mounts generate such sounds when accelerating.

[Rumesh88]

hi guys.i have a toyota vitz(scp10) 1000cc YOM 2001..which has done 135000km on the clock (100% genuine)

since last month when i accelerate the car (while driving only)something like engine knock sound("kata kata") something like rattle sound (but not a engine knock) coming from engine after few seconds its vanished.but no any difference with engine performance ..pickup or gear changing.last week i did a engine tuneup & sensors checked .but no luck with that too.my mechanic says he cant predict it tooo because car performance is very well...what should i have to check now?does any one had a similar problem like this??pls guys help me

Does the engine sound like a tractor when you pick up.? If so during the tune up did they not clean the Oil Control Valve (OCV) filter? If not done recently get that cleaned and see if the situation improves. More often than not tune up guys ignore cleaning of the OCV filter. You need not do it every time you do a tune up but at least once in 100,000 kms would do some justice.

Edit: Though of adding a few more lines on the OCV filter removal. This is kept sealed with a 6mm (or was it 8mm?) allen key type plug. The mechanic must have the proper tool (ie a 6mm or 8mm allen key with an extension for extra leverage) otherwise they will spoil the plug head.

Edited April 7, 2015 by Rumesh88

[osanda19]

thanks for the quick reply guys!!

Edited April 7, 2015 by osanda19

[osanda19]

does this happen only when you accelerate ?

are the engine mounts and gearbox mount good ? may be broken mounts generate such sounds when accelerating.

yes!

yes bro all mounts are ok.

[osanda19]

Does the engine sound like a tractor when you pick up.? If so during the tune up did they not clean the Oil Control Valve (OCV) filter? If not done recently get that cleaned and see if the situation improves. More often than not tune up guys ignore cleaning of the OCV filter. You need not do it every time you do a tune up but at least once in 100,000 kms would do some justice.

Edit: Though of adding a few more lines on the OCV filter removal. This is kept sealed with a 6mm (or was it 8mm?) allen key type plug. The mechanic must have the proper tool (ie a 6mm or 8mm allen key with an extension for extra leverage) otherwise they will spoil the plug head.

no..engine acceleration sound is normal..

i have no idea about OCV thing.i think he didn't do that.ill ask him tomorrow & ill check that thanks bro.

[osanda19]

my mechanic called me now. hes saying that hes predicting this is happening because of carbon deposits on pistons!!

[VVTi]

my mechanic called me now. hes saying that hes predicting this is happening because of carbon deposits on pistons!!

Change your mechanic.

Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON),

Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC.

Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off.

It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too..

But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.

[The Don]

my mechanic called me now. hes saying that hes predicting this is happening because of carbon deposits on pistons!!

This could cause a pre ignition knock, as petrol might ignite as it comes into contact with hot carbon, before the spark plugs gives a spark. The solution is what VVTI suggests above. Its worthwhile doing it anyway even if its not the exact issue.

[osanda19]

thank u so much mr VVT-i & DON.. tomorrow ill going to try that Italian ..ha,,haa,,

[bycap]

Change your mechanic.

Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON),

Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC.

Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off.

It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too..

But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.

hey I did this without knowing it has a name. :D I did not have any issue though. just to run engine with full capacity. its like stretching after few hours sitting ...

[Ruslan]

Change your mechanic.

Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON),

Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC.

Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off.

It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too..

But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.

Did the same trick with BG44K (available @ laughs). Switched OD off and driven in high rpms.

[Schiffer]

Change your mechanic.

Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON),

Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC.

Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off.

It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too..

But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.

Couldnt someone who wanna do this just shift into L or 2? coz i am assuming the high revs are what matters and not the speed of it. so the guy can do this witin the speed limit. (although whoever that is might look like uninteligent man for others)?

[MAS]

Did the same trick with BG44K (available @ laughs). Switched OD off and driven in high rpms.

I did this once with BG and took the car on the highway with a return trip. Two days later, the low oil pressure light lit up continuously. My mechanic said he cleaned a valve (I wasn't there at the time) and the oil pressure came back to normal. I didn't say to my mechanic what I did.

Maybe some cleaned up gunk got stuck in a valve. Since then, I'm a bit worried to add anything into the petrol tank.

Yes, I'm too having a slight sound (like spray paint can rattle) under the engine. Only during acceleration and engine load (between AT gear 1 and 2). Cannot seem to figure out the problem.

So to OP, please update this thread if you get yours fixed.

Edited April 8, 2015 by MAS

[NRX]

I did this once with BG and took the car on the highway with a return trip. Two days later, the low oil pressure light lit up continuously. My mechanic said he cleaned a valve (I wasn't there at the time) and the oil pressure came back to normal. I didn't say to my mechanic what I did.

Maybe some cleaned up gunk got stuck in a valve. Since then, I'm a bit worried to add anything into the petrol tank.

Yes, I'm too having a slight sound (like spray paint can rattle) under the engine. Only during acceleration and engine load (between AT gear 1 and 2). Cannot seem to figure out the problem.

So to OP, please update this thread if you get yours fixed.

He may have cleaned the oil pressure switch. If that's the case it doesn't really have anything to do with adding BG. May be some dislodged crap in oil lines due to high revving was blocking the switch.

Edited April 8, 2015 by NRX

[MAS]

He may have cleaned the oil pressure switch. If that's the case it doesn't really have anything to do with adding BG. May be some dislodged crap in oil lines due to high revving was blocking the switch.

The pressure was actually low cos the sound of the engine was different. My guess is, BG cleaned up and some dislodged crap got in the way of oil flow & pressure. I'm not an expert in this though .

I have read that if one is to use engine treatment additives, then add it just before your engine oil change interval is due.

[YALA]

Change your mechanic.

Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON),

Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC.

Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off.

It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too..

But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.

I do that without the additives every other month or just before an emission test gets the old girl to stretch her legs a bit and kick out any laziness

[osanda19]

hi guys..today morning i went to see my mechanic..he checked one piston head through spark plug whole and he said that there's very slightly carbon deposits on the piston.

hes saying that there's a BG product that called "PISTON CARBON CLEANER" which is adding that chemical to the vacuum line of the throttle body or charcoal canister.ones he did this to the mitsubishi cedia and all carbon deposits came through silencer as a liquid..also hes saying that this method may be can harm to the lambda sensor.

i called to the BG & wurth agent and asked that product.but they don't have any idea about piston cleaner like this.

i checked the net.but i couldn't found a such a product like that..

now im going to do that process by using BG44k as Ruslan & MAS did and VVTI suggested..

Edited April 8, 2015 by osanda19

[osanda19]

@MAS

whatz the BG product that u used?is it BG44K or BG 244(i think this one for diesel engines)

did your problem got fixed or not?i think that your problem is as same as my one

Edited April 8, 2015 by osanda19

[Rumesh88]

hi guys..today morning i went to see my mechanic..he checked one piston head through spark plug whole and he said that there's very slightly carbon deposits on the piston.

hes saying that there's a BG product that called "PISTON CARBON CLEANER" which is adding that chemical to the vacuum line of the throttle body or charcoal canister.ones he did this to the mitsubishi cedia and all carbon deposits came through silencer as a liquid..also hes saying that this method may be can harm to the lambda sensor.

i called to the BG & wurth agent and asked that product.but they don't have any idea about piston cleaner like this.

i checked the net.but i couldn't found a such a product like that..

now im going to do that process by using BG44k as Ruslan & MAS did and VVTI suggested..

How about your most recent Eco reading. If you just passed the test with only a small margin, there is some reason to believe that there could be enough carbon deposits to cause pre-ignition. Otherwise forget about running behind additives just to de-carbonize the engine. Instead do an Italian tune up as suggested above. That should take care of slight deposits on the piston crown and chamber. However your explanation of the sound does not seem to fit with the caption. Is it is sound like the one in this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGJZ6kKzLus. If so it is an engine knock caused by either pre-ignition or wrong timing. It could even be a simple thing like the accelerator cable rattling against something in the engine bay. Eliminate those possibilities too.

Edited April 8, 2015 by Rumesh88

[MAS]

@MAS

whatz the BG product that u used?is it BG44K or BG 244(i think this one for diesel engines)

did your problem got fixed or not?i think that your problem is as same as my one

BG44K. The "can rattle" sound is still present.

[simpleone]

As The Don said this could be pre ignition knock or detonating. It could be due to faulty ignition coil. Well at least I suspect because mine shows the same symptoms and I know one ignition coil is not too good.

[VVTi]

Couldnt someone who wanna do this just shift into L or 2? coz i am assuming the high revs are what matters and not the speed of it. so the guy can do this witin the speed limit. (although whoever that is might look like uninteligent man for others)?

Theoretically

.

But having a load on the engine is better. Besides why would anyone want to miss out on a high speed run?

[VVTi]

I would stick to known brands such as 3M or Wurth when it comes to additive.

Somehow I do not trust these BG stuff.

[Schiffer]

Theoretically

.

But having a load on the engine is better. Besides why would anyone want to miss out on a high speed run?

i see..

about the highlighted part. Someone who has a bad engine would wanna avoid a high speed run

[osanda19]

hi guys!! im very sorry for the late reply ..but i think i have to share about my experience..

at last i decided to forget about that engine knocking sound & live with it(because i had no choice)!!

but after few months check engine light came on when im travelling to jaffna..but no different with performance..but i noticed that fuel consumption is little bit higher than earlier..after returning the trip i went to meet my mechanic & got a scan report..and it says "FUEL LEAN"..then we decided to change the petrol filter ..after that check engine light gone off and that knocking sound also gone..i was very happy..but after few days suddenly came back that check engine light with that knocking rattling sound..after that we got a freeze frame data report & my mechanic analyzed it and decided to change the MAF(mass air flow sensor)...then we changed it and every thing became normal( actually better than early)engine sound became smooth..that knocking ratteling sound gone forever..fuel consumption became very low and car performance became noticeable change..