## Post Whoring - Part 3 ##

[matroska]

This is fun...  

Funnily enough I do get a free coffee (at least there's a pot of cofee in the waiting area at St@fford  ) 

[matroska]

[amsandun]

I think the guy had good business which sold all the lamps and had to put up a bite shop 🤩

[fiat fan]

Someone smoked too much grass!

[amsandun]

12 hours ago, fiat fan said:

Someone smoked too much grass!

කෑගල්ලනේ ඉතින් 😁ඕවා nothing...

Edited December 11 by amsandun

[Hyaenidae]

Found this super interesting post on Reddit. A Mazda master tech posted it, but it's good advice for almost any car.

 

 Due to the fact I'm getting tons of repeating PMs, and see many repeating posts, I decided I'll make a post that covers many known issues\facts about the CX-5. This way, I can just link it. Yes, I might forget something, but that's because I'm human. I've seen about 40K work orders of Mazda's, and about 10K of those were mine to take care of. I can not comment on the diesel models, since I've never seen one. I'll be talking in miles because Americans usually have more problems with conversions than the rest of us... But I prefer metric.

1.    "Which CX-5 is the most reliable one?"

2016.5 and 2017. Older are also great, but the 2016.5 and 2017 are the latest models with "tank reliability". This is due to the fact they don't have cylinder deactivation or i-stop, and no LED headlights\taillights (depends on trim, all have LED headlights, but some have auto level and tail lights). The headlights are about $1K each if they go out! Some lower trims of 2018+ also don't have CDA, and those will be reliable as well. Some early batch 2024s are also CDA (cylinder deactivation) free. Turbos (of any car) are less reliable than naturally aspirated CDA-free Mazda's, but might be more reliable than naturally aspirated Mazda's with CDA (more on that later). When you have a part that spins at 200,000 RPM, you can't expect the reliability of something that doesn't have that part. Overall, the higher the year after 2017, the more issues I've seen per mile.

2.    Mazda OEM brakes are crap.

Most of you will experience squeals and screeches. They're not bad at stopping, just noisy. So when you need brakes done eventually, switch to Brembo rotors and Akebono pads. If Brembo isn't available in your market, any mid-range and coated aftermarket rotors will still be better than Mazda's OEM... But I'll have to insist on the Akebono pads. Go on RockAuto and search for your model. Pretty much everything on the "daily driver" or "premium" categories will be much quieter than OEM. I prefer Akebono pads because (in my experience, and I haven't tried everything), their hardware fits the best.

3.    Most common issue (all CX-5s, and all Mazdas in general) is the infotainment.

CMUs are pretty rare (I've seen 4 in 7.5 years). Most of the time it's either an SD card, which creates bootloops (can be solved with a $30 SD card on Amazon) or a full screen screen (ghost touches, can be solved with a new screen for $150 at the junkyard, or just do this: https://youtu.be/wO9IQoH_2jQ). SD cards and screens I've seen going bad at least once every 2 weeks (on a slow week).

4.    Got a transmission you think is acting up?

Do this before going to a shop: https://youtu.be/TxU0y1DqTUc In my experience, this will solve it over 80% of the times.

 5.   "How to maintain my CX-5 so it'll last?"

Transmission+differential+transfer case fluid every 50K miles (remember, there is no such thing as "lifetime fluid", manufacturer says there is just because of EPA and CAFE standards, so they could show that maintaining the vehicle requires less crude oil products... For them, "lifetime" means the lifetime of the warranty period), coolant flush every 5 years, brake fluid every 5-10 years, oil change every 5K miles at most (with none-turbo) and 3K with turbos (unless you want your engine to start burning oil early), spark plugs every 60K miles (none-turbo) and 35K turbo at most, to keep your coils healthy. Replace your engine air filter and cabin filter every year, regardless... Your MAF sensor and blower fan will thank you for it, and the better mileage you'll get from a new engine filter will pay for itself (if you'll do it by yourself, which is a 3 minute job)... Do the cabin filter yourselves too. Both air and cabin filters you can go aftermarket, because you replace them frequently. Don't get high flow filters, or filters that are too restrictive. See this: https://youtu.be/sJ3L-E-ufYo

Get yourself a $5-$10 brake fluid tester on Amazon\AliExpress, and a $10 coolant gravity tester+a $15 cheap multimeter, and test your own fluids... It only takes a few seconds, and no one will scam you to replace them ahead of time. Here's how to test your coolant with a multimeter.

Walnut blasting intake valves every 70K miles. ( Hyaenidae: Applicable for GDI models I guess) Fuel system cleaner with high PEA content (Chevron Techron, redline, or Gumout All-In-One) every 8K miles, preferably add it just before a long (100+ miles drive). Keep your fuel tank at least 1\4 full at all times, to keep the pump cool. This will extend its useful life by a huge factor.

Using 100% synthetic (different from "full synthetic") engine oil, you don't need to track time, only mileage. Best will be Pennzoil Platinum, which is derived from natural gas and not crude oil. See this: https://youtu.be/7hJU112oUg8

6. "I don't like my tires".

Yes, those aren't great as well... Just use them up and get better tires, or get a better set and sell the old ones on FB marketplace.

Overall, Mazda's reliability (even later models) is still top 3-5 (depending which year ranking), and are still one of the best vehicles you'll get for what they cost (in terms of reliability, dynamics, and premium interior and accessories).

I prefer helping out with individual issues in a public thread, so others could find it when searching online for the same issue, so please either comment or make a post, and only then PM me with the post link, and then I'll help many, instead of one.

7. "Does my engine sounds weird?".

Watch this: https://youtu.be/cdjIF4jYQow

8. I can't help with "is this a good price to buy this car?"

I was never on sales. I CAN help with "is this a reasonable price for this service?".

9. Never go to a dealership for anything!

The only exception is complex diagnostics or warranty work. Go to a private shop that isn't a chain (a shop with only one location, maybe 2, in the entire country). Dealership are 2X more expensive, and the easy work (service) is done by the newest apprentices to "learn" on your vehicle, while the licensed techs are busy with diagnostics, complex work, PDIs, warranty, and safety certificates.

If you think I forgot something (which I probably have), please add it.

10. Have a newer Mazda?

Hate the app, the subscription model, and the fact the engine turns off when you open the door? Get this one instead. Takes 15-20 minutes to assemble, and doesn't turn off unless you don't have the fob with you when you press on the brake pedal.

Edit: "Will this hold true with other models?" Yes. But the years\trims that have CDA will be different. Anything else powertrain and infotainment related is the same.

Edit: Wow, I had no idea this was going to blow up like this. Give me 6-8 weeks to try and respond to all the inquiries, and update the list with the suggestions that you reminded me of.

11. "how to tell if I have cylinder deactivation?"

Under fuel economy in the infotainment system https://youtu.be/-JAlBM-31k8 Also, if you have this part on your exhaust, you got CDA. BTW, if you have a screeching\whistling noise when you start up or turn off the car, that's the part that's doing that. It doesn't mean it has to be replaced, just mean it's slightly worn. If you're under warranty, get it replaced. If you're out of warranty, wait for your engine light to turn on before you replace it.

Edit : if I haven't answered your question, it probably means someone else already asked it and it was answered. I'm going through all the comments, and now it's YOUR turn 😏 but I'm still trying to answer even repeating questions, they just go to the end of the line, since there are hundreds to answer. PMs will be the last to be answered (but they will eventually), since that only helps one person, and not everyone.

12. Someone reminded me of another known issue, which is mirrors not folding or making creeking noise when folding. This is usually the mirror motor assembly, not an easy diy or a cheap job. About $200-$250 per side. And this one you should go to the dealer for... It's very easy to break a few things if you do it incorrectly. Some people say lubricating works, but in my experience, it worked only about 20% of the times. But you have nothing to lose by trying, so here you go: https://youtu.be/NTZZUBafZgs

Edit: "If I have to choose between a 2024 with CDA or 2024 turbo, which should I choose". Well, I don't have enough data, as there's not enough mileage on those to see long term reliability, but If I was a betting man, I would go for the turbo. Turbo problems can be delayed with more vigorous maintenance (short interval oil changes), CDA problems are uncontrollable. But again, it's just an educated guess, so take it with a large grain of salt.

13. Another issue one commented reminded me of is "sticky" command console control buttons and joystick. This is usually caused from liquid damage, as those are stupidly placed next to the cup holders. Try this: Buy electrical contractor spray. Take out the battery negative terminal, spray a huge amount (1\4 to 1\2 of the can) of contactor spray on the buttons and bottom of the joystick, while you press and play with them. Then wait 5 minutes. Do that again, wait 10 minutes, reconnect the battery, start the car and check if it worked. Repeat if\when necessary.

14. Another known issue is the coolant valve (Mazda's fancy word for thermostat). Not very common, but not rare either. They are quite expensive though (about $700 all in). The good news are that there a cheaper fix than what the dealership tell you. Insist paying the labor hours stated in the TSB! READ THIS FIRST and make sure your vehicle is included: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2024/MC-11003350-0001.pdf

Edit for companies PMing me: No, I will not put an affiliate link or promote your product, not even if it's one that I recommended here already. There are 2 reasons for this... A. It will ruin the integrity of my post\recommendations. B. What if tomorrow your product isn't good anymore, and I want to edit the post and recommend something else? I won't be able to do it, since I'm getting money from you. Reddit is to help people, not to become another breeding ground for greedy "influencers" like ticktock or Instagram. If I wanted to sell stuff to people, I would've stayed at the dealership! So please stop approaching me.

Edit: apparently people are not happy with the shorter explanation version of why CDA is bad (for all manufacturers), so here's the long one: Thermodynamics. When you turn off two cylinders and the two others are firing, it means two cylinders are running colder than the other two. All cylinders share the same block and cylinder head. When some parts of the cylinder head are colder than other parts, the rate of expansion and contraction is different between areas of the same block of metal. Those stresses, in turn, can lead to either micro fractures in the head (cracked cylinder head eventually), or out of round of the bores (oil consumption eventually). This isn't just a Mazda problem, it's a problem with other manufacturers as well. Search "Chevrolet cylinder deactivation issues", or "Honda VCM issues" and see. Same issues across the board.

Edit for new owners: Do an oil change after the first 1000-1500 miles. No... Engines aren't really "broken in" at the factory. See this: https://youtu.be/X4424Q5lLR8

Edit for fellow Redditors: Please don't give me "awards" (unless you get them for free somehow). Donate that amount to what you think is a worthy cause. Writing "thank you, that was helpful" in the comments makes me much happier than getting an award. Reddit is a 20 billion dollars behemoth... They don't need your money, as they make enough from ads.

Edit for mods\general Redditors: I'll answer here because I was asked several times. Yes, you can copy my post and put it in any forum\sub you want. You don't need to give me credit or get my permission. It's nice that you ask... But you don't need to. The more people know about this, the better. Doesn't matter if it's from me or from you.

 

Link to the original post

Edited Wednesday at 06:16 PM by Hyaenidae