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Help - Engine Problem


lasa

Question

Guys i have a problem and hope any of you guys have a solution. My dissel wagon(Toyota corolla DX - CE 106) had a problem in starting in mornings(sometimes in evenings also). When i try to start, even though car gives indications of stating but doesn't start. Then on second time when try to start engine get started but gives indication of stopping untill i accelarated several times. I thought the problem is in FEED pump and disel filter and replaced them with orginal one yesterday, But again on today morning car didn't start on first try and gave usual trouble again. Any og you guys have idea about this? Also does any of you know a reliable, place to get a "compression test" done on my engine?

Edited by lasa
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Guys i have a problem and hope any of you guys have a solution. My dissel wagon(Toyota corolla DX - CE 106) had a problem in starting in mornings(sometimes in evenings also). When i try to start, even though car gives indications of stating but doesn't start. Then on second time when try to start engine get started but gives indication of stopping untill i accelarated several times. I thought the problem is in FEED pump and disel filter and replaced them with orginal one yesterday, But again on today morning car didn't start on first try and gave usual trouble again. Any og you guys have idea about this? Also does any of you know a reliable, place to get a "compression test" done on my engine?

Any one to help me?

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Any one to help me?

Dude from what i know you have to switch it on and wait until you hear a small sound like "tung". Thats i think is the coil. Even the coil light is off sometimes it takes time. So try to start the engine after that. This is what i got to know from my friends car. So try it out. I'm not an expert but im sure theexperts will post there opinions.

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Guys i have a problem and hope any of you guys have a solution. My dissel wagon(Toyota corolla DX - CE 106) had a problem in starting in mornings(sometimes in evenings also). When i try to start, even though car gives indications of stating but doesn't start. Then on second time when try to start engine get started but gives indication of stopping untill i accelarated several times. I thought the problem is in FEED pump and disel filter and replaced them with orginal one yesterday, But again on today morning car didn't start on first try and gave usual trouble again. Any og you guys have idea about this? Also does any of you know a reliable, place to get a "compression test" done on my engine?

you do pre-heat the engine before you start it right?

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you do pre-heat the engine before you start it right?

Yes i do that. I always wait few seconds before start after switiching on, till i hear the sound from engine(beep sound) which indicate i can start.

Edited by lasa
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Guys i have a problem and hope any of you guys have a solution. My dissel wagon(Toyota corolla DX - CE 106) had a problem in starting in mornings(sometimes in evenings also). When i try to start, even though car gives indications of stating but doesn't start. Then on second time when try to start engine get started but gives indication of stopping untill i accelarated several times. I thought the problem is in FEED pump and disel filter and replaced them with orginal one yesterday, But again on today morning car didn't start on first try and gave usual trouble again. Any og you guys have idea about this? Also does any of you know a reliable, place to get a "compression test" done on my engine?

It seems your Diesel pump problem. Take your car to good diesel pump service centre. They will sot out the problem.

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Guys i have a problem and hope any of you guys have a solution. My dissel wagon(Toyota corolla DX - CE 106) had a problem in starting in mornings(sometimes in evenings also). When i try to start, even though car gives indications of stating but doesn't start. Then on second time when try to start engine get started but gives indication of stopping untill i accelarated several times. I thought the problem is in FEED pump and disel filter and replaced them with orginal one yesterday, But again on today morning car didn't start on first try and gave usual trouble again. Any og you guys have idea about this? Also does any of you know a reliable, place to get a "compression test" done on my engine?

Hey lasa try reheating the engine several times before u ignite. Ur car should have an engine advance knob which can increase the idle rpm. Increase that a bit in the mornings until the car gets heated up properly. U can reduce it afterwards. Whats the mileage of the car? Has the engine been overhauled previously?

If the milleage is over 200,000kms I would recomend u to do a compression test.

Cheers

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Hey lasa try reheating the engine several times before u ignite. Ur car should have an engine advance knob which can increase the idle rpm. Increase that a bit in the mornings until the car gets heated up properly. U can reduce it afterwards. Whats the mileage of the car? Has the engine been overhauled previously?

If the milleage is over 200,000kms I would recomend u to do a compression test.

Cheers

Machang this is the first time overhauled happened. Well my wagon is around 10 yrs old, but only had run around 90,000 km till today(We got this imported from japan and my father had rarely used this). Do i need to do a compression test still? You know good place to get it done?

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Machang this is the first time overhauled happened. Well my wagon is around 10 yrs old, but only had run around 90,000 km till today(We got this imported from japan and my father had rarely used this). Do i need to do a compression test still? You know good place to get it done?

If ur car has genuine 90,000KMs I don't think this problem is due to the engine compression. Does this happen all the time when u start it or is it just when the engine is cold? (Means when u start the car after long hours of non-use)

Does this 'indication of stopping' ends after a while? or does it persist even after the engine is heated up?

Anyway try what I said earlier and let us know..

Cheers

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If ur car has genuine 90,000KMs I don't think this problem is due to the engine compression. Does this happen all the time when u start it or is it just when the engine is cold? (Means when u start the car after long hours of non-use)

Does this 'indication of stopping' ends after a while? or does it persist even after the engine is heated up?

Anyway try what I said earlier and let us know..

Cheers

Well this only happen after keeping car cold. Mostly in mornings and sometimes when i goto get car from car park after work. But somedays car starts without any problems also. Also after i get car started it doesn't give any trouble after that(unless keep it cold for long time again). Hey can i know where is this "advance knob " is situated? How to increase the idle rpm? I'm not familiar with this. Thanks for support machang.

Edited by lasa
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Machan if its only happening when the engine cold then definitely a heating issue.. After some wear in the engine, proper heating is needed for the start of the engine. So Since its a diesel the culprit would be more often than not the heat plugs. Get them checked and if they r gud check on whether there is electricilty getin supplied to them.. and last option is to check the Timing Controller ( Small unit which keeps the ehat plugs on for 8 seconds and gives the beep). If its busted then again it won't engage the heat plugs.. All of these wudnt even take an hour for a mech..

Gud Luck and let us knw the progress..

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check the hose clamps and hoses to and from the pump. There can be a small air leak before the pump (diesel is denser than gasoline and when held up against gravity with vacuum, even the smallest air leak can build up enough of an air bubble) that is built up to such a size by sitting overnight that when you fire up in the morning, you mostly have air. When you finally get it to start, it still keeps sputtering as there's still air in the line until you push the fuel thru fast and pushing the air bubbles thru.

If your car has a manual pump, pump it a few times in the morning and see if that makes a difference. If it does then you can eliminate the heaters.

Get it checked and be careful overheating the heaters (if there is no feedback loop) as you could burn them up and they cost more than a few hose clamps.

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check the hose clamps and hoses to and from the pump. There can be a small air leak before the pump (diesel is denser than gasoline and when held up against gravity with vacuum, even the smallest air leak can build up enough of an air bubble) that is built up to such a size by sitting overnight that when you fire up in the morning, you mostly have air. When you finally get it to start, it still keeps sputtering as there's still air in the line until you push the fuel thru fast and pushing the air bubbles thru.

If your car has a manual pump, pump it a few times in the morning and see if that makes a difference. If it does then you can eliminate the heaters.

Get it checked and be careful overheating the heaters (if there is no feedback loop) as you could burn them up and they cost more than a few hose clamps.

Thx machang, will try manual pumping 2row and see what happen.

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Thx machang, will try manual pumping 2row and see what happen.

Well i did manual pumping(when i start pumping pump was not hard, it was little loose and i could easily press) before switching on car and after doing it i started the car and it started without any problem.

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Well i did manual pumping(when i start pumping pump was not hard, it was little loose and i could easily press) before switching on car and after doing it i started the car and it started without any problem.

looks like you have an air leak. Remove the hose coming into pump (fuel tank side) cut off about and inch and reattach with clamp and see if it helps.

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Hi,

If you were here in the UK I would check that there is supply at the Glow Plugs on switching the ignition on from cooling down. If the supply is ok I would try replacing the Glow plugs. HOW EVER If you try and prime the system and the car starts properly every time afterwards It is very likely that it has a leak most probably between the filter and the pump or the pump itself. if you have some basic knowledge you can check the supply yourself by using a bulb from a indicator(Signal) light and a couple of pieces of wire. Solder the wires to the bulb. Attach one wire to the feed terminal of one of the glow plugs and the other wire to a good earth point on the engine. Now make sure the wires are seperate and the bulb is not touching anything metal. Get someone to switch the ignition on-The bulb should light up at least for a couple of seconds if the supply is ok. If it does not light up at all you need to find why-That's a job for someone who knows what they are doing.

Try

Maithri

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Hi,

If you were here in the UK I would check that there is supply at the Glow Plugs on switching the ignition on from cooling down. If the supply is ok I would try replacing the Glow plugs. HOW EVER If you try and prime the system and the car starts properly every time afterwards It is very likely that it has a leak most probably between the filter and the pump or the pump itself. if you have some basic knowledge you can check the supply yourself by using a bulb from a indicator(Signal) light and a couple of pieces of wire. Solder the wires to the bulb. Attach one wire to the feed terminal of one of the glow plugs and the other wire to a good earth point on the engine. Now make sure the wires are seperate and the bulb is not touching anything metal. Get someone to switch the ignition on-The bulb should light up at least for a couple of seconds if the supply is ok. If it does not light up at all you need to find why-That's a job for someone who knows what they are doing.

Try

Maithri

Dude sorry for the piggy back. I thought I will save the admins the space. My P11 engine runs pretty smooth since I changed over to Fully Synthetic. How ever, today I saw the funniest thing. Today I noticed that the rev needle is behaving rather erratically. I mean I was idling at the lights in Borella and the needle was showing 6000 then went 7000 and dropped to 0 and then went up to 4000./ I revved the engine and it stopped doing that, but I feel that is is showing more than I feel the engine is doing. What the reason? New battery, leads are tight, no rust, loose connections, nothing. All systems in the green.

What the story?

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Dude sorry for the piggy back. I thought I will save the admins the space. My P11 engine runs pretty smooth since I changed over to Fully Synthetic. How ever, today I saw the funniest thing. Today I noticed that the rev needle is behaving rather erratically. I mean I was idling at the lights in Borella and the needle was showing 6000 then went 7000 and dropped to 0 and then went up to 4000./ I revved the engine and it stopped doing that, but I feel that is is showing more than I feel the engine is doing. What the reason? New battery, leads are tight, no rust, loose connections, nothing. All systems in the green.

What the story?

VVTI I had a similar problem with a Mitsubishi and in my case an issue with the electronics and the ECU, I advise you get it looked at immediately, as the car revving up by itself when on idle apart from being annoying could be dangerous !! I was told these problems also happen due to vacuum problems.

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VVTI I had a similar problem with a Mitsubishi and in my case an issue with the electronics and the ECU, I advise you get it looked at immediately, as the car revving up by itself when on idle apart from being annoying could be dangerous !! I was told these problems also happen due to vacuum problems.

Thank you Don, but the thing is the engine is fine. Its the damn needle that does it. Engine doesn't rev up unnaturally. Today all the way to work from home the needle was stuck at 8000!!!!! But the car was running fine. I disconnected the batt lead and left it now to see if the ECU will reset itself by the time I leave in the evening. Lets wait and see. A friend of mine mentioned that the Dashboard circuit must be having a bug somewhere. But to see my removing the batt lead and checking.

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Is it only the rev meter that dose this if so you might wanna check rev sensor coz one of our vehicle also had the same problem we showed it to a mechanic and he just removed the rev sensor and cleaned it a little bit and fixed it back again and it was working fine!

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Is it only the rev meter that dose this if so you might wanna check rev sensor coz one of our vehicle also had the same problem we showed it to a mechanic and he just removed the rev sensor and cleaned it a little bit and fixed it back again and it was working fine!

It is only the rev meter. Rest of the needles are fine. Where exactly is the sensor?

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It is only the rev meter. Rest of the needles are fine. Where exactly is the sensor?

Actually I don t know where exactly it is since you r vehicle is diesel! But although most of the diesel vehicles get it on the Injector pump! you should show it to an mechanic and see!

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