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Project Moggie - Body & Electrical work



Bodywork started after disassembling almost all parts. Remain only the outer shell of the car with wiring harness which can not pullout easily. Gauge 14 & 18 zinc coated metal sheets used for most places.


Firstly cut the right side of the chassis and welded new bar.


Then the left side and floor board plates one by one. All door bottoms, front and back wings repaired. Mean time door hinge pins refilled at a lathe workshop.  Finally attached all doors and wings again to check the aligning.


Carbide 9kg and a oxygen cylinder consumed for this works.

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Wow! That's a lot of work. Do you do your own tinkering? So once you cut out the chassis bar how do you prevent the roof from warping? The B pillar is not supported at the bottom, so doesn't the weight of the roof warp the structure? 

Edited by varotone
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I dont have tinkering skills to do the job. So got a professional tinkers service. He visited my home and did the job. Its took round 20 days. Seems he did the job well. Also according to my requirements. Welded iron bars across the edges before cut the chassis bar to prevent roof warping. Also the Morris Minor workshop manual refereed to find extract dimensions in this case.

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Making good progress @kusumsiri! Keep it up!

One thing I can advise you on is to keep the wiring well away from the welding torch. While your tinkerer is cutting out external panels, there might be wires that go through small cavities that'll get torched in the process if not moved away or properly shielded. 

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2 hours ago, Davy said:

Making good progress @kusumsiri! Keep it up!

One thing I can advise you on is to keep the wiring well away from the welding torch. While your tinkerer is cutting out external panels, there might be wires that go through small cavities that'll get torched in the process if not moved away or properly shielded. 

Thks @Davy for the advice. You are correct. They are not caring about other things when working. If happened something will say "ටේප් කෑල්ලක් ගැහුවම හරි". I know those type of answers. So tried to be with him possible every seconds and told the things in friendly manner some times in jokes too. image.thumb.png.c85d4af95f089a19071530bae5a20bba.png

But unfortunately he damaged the control box cover. See the small hole. Might be he try to open it in wrong manner.

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May I suggest removing all the wires while tinkering is going on. If wires can't pass through the holes in the firewall because the connectors are larger than the holes, remove the connectors. Note how wires are connected and remove all of them. Once it is outside, you can thoroughly inspect the wires for damages and fix it. It's easier to fix the wiring when it's taken out.

Regarding the damaged voltage regulator, how about upgrading to an electronic one? They stabilizer voltage better than the electromagnetic ones and don't need adjusting regularly. Just my two cents.

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Most wires released from the clips, rolled and kept under the dashboard. But your suggestion seems better. Unfortunately tinkering work finished before your suggestion  :sad-smiley-050:. Also the previous owner said head lamp fuse burning time to time. So willing to check complete wire harness by removing all insulation tapes and check each wire for damage in the rewiring process.

Voltage regulator A alternator (3 wire) fixed already and the dynamo removed. The alternator should have a built in regulator which I dont need to worry about charging. But willing to keep the regulator as it is to have vintage look.

Some history : My father had a Austin lorry (a one like below) which had a dynamo. So I know the headache of charging. That is the lorry my father taught me driving. No serve brake, no power steering and the starter motor not functioning well because of that poor dynamo. Still remember that nice time period.?


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It doesn't have a headlight relay right? And the rated power for headlights is 35/50W? Maybe the sealed beams are of a higher power. Might be the reason for blown fuse. I suggest you add a relay. Even the 35/50 would be brighter with the relay due to the decreased voltage drop. You can even upgrade to brighter lights later.

When you repair the wire harness route the wires through flexi tubing. Electrical wiring shops have something called flexi / flexi tubing. A corrugated flexible PVC tube. Get some black color heavy-duty ones and run the wires through it. Added protection from rodents and elements. Looks neat too. Especially useful for exposed wires in the engine bay. I just finished repairing all the wires in my project car. Assembled everything as it would be on the car with all the switches, lights and motors, and made sure all worked. Used the flexi also. Unfortunately I don't have photos of the whole setup on my phone.

Alternator is a worthy upgrade. Clean the gunk off the voltage regulator and attach some wires to keep the looks!



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Yes. It dont have any relay. Your relay suggestion is good and seems practical. Deeply thinking about it.

About flexi tubing : The hardware guys call them as flexible hose and I already planned to use those. I will update here once done.

Regulator : Yep, thinking to attach some dummy wires to it. Now it have only 1 and seems isolated.

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Update : Because we already discussed about electrical works in this thread added the relevant images here. To suit it changed the thread name from "Project Moggie - Bodywork" to "Project Moggie - Body & Electrical work". First two images shows the control box and fuse box in the way they were.


This is how the viper motor and flasher were there.



Below images are the present status of wiring. The hole on the control box cover was repaired and added some dummy wires to it for better look. Thank you @varotone for suggestion about flexi tubing.


Original status and present status


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1 hour ago, Twin Turbo said:

How bouts an alternator conversion?

One previous owner converted the wiring to negative earth and an alternator also fixed. It is a 3 wire alternator having inbuilt regulator. But the control box fixed as a dummy.

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