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Auto Gear


ajwad

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Hi Every one!!

My Mazda is a 6BJ 1600cc year 2000 Auto gear model.

1.My problem is that, in the morning when i shift the gear to "D" the car doesn't move forward for about 20 seconds. when i accelerate the engine revs but the car doesn't move forward according to the acceleration.

2.The other issue is that when i am holding the brake on "D" at traffic perhaps, the car vibrates allot. In fact i have changed all 4 engine mounts also.

Could some sincerely help me out here.

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The oil is red. But i think i found the solution for this without removing the gear box or replacing one. According to a mechanic i know, he advised me to put the auto transmission treatment of wynns product and i did and the car is normal now. I think it works. and it did!!!

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  • 1 month later...

Hi ajwad

did this work 100% for your car?? as mine also giving similar problem as in the morning and when the engine is fully cold, it delays about 2 -3 seconds to connect o the gear. but its normal with R gear.

please advice

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well my car took atleast 6 seconds to move forward in D. but after using wynns i t is much more less than 3 seconds on the clock. i suggest you try it cause nothing to loose. also BG has a brand which is a little expensive. i assume its better. it is available at Laugfs. i think you should try that.

let me know if there is any difference.

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well my car took atleast 6 seconds to move forward in D. but after using wynns i t is much more less than 3 seconds on the clock. i suggest you try it cause nothing to loose. also BG has a brand which is a little expensive. i assume its better. it is available at Laugfs. i think you should try that.

let me know if there is any difference.

Whats BG?

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These kinds of problems most of the times you cannot resolve by changing the ATF. These should be repaired. Otherwise those 2,3 and 6 seconds will grow up for 1-2 minutes even. i had this problem with my vehicle. you will have to replace some plates and rubber rings inside the gear box. I can provide contact details of the AT repairing technician which i got repaired my vehicle if any one wants.

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These kinds of problems most of the times you cannot resolve by changing the ATF. These should be repaired. Otherwise those 2,3 and 6 seconds will grow up for 1-2 minutes even. i had this problem with my vehicle. you will have to replace some plates and rubber rings inside the gear box. I can provide contact details of the AT repairing technician which i got repaired my vehicle if any one wants.

Pls provide the details to [email protected]

Thanks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everybody!

mine is BJ5P -2000 and it gives the same problem not only when starts ..some times suddenly feel no acceleration or a acceleration delay even drove for a long distance...i thought that was because of a 'miss' in engine..please provide me the infomation if anyone can.Thanks.

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The most probable cause is the internal oil rings get hardened due to the aging, causing pressure leakage.

With heating up those parts get swollen and hens stop leaking so gears working normal in the running temperature but the gear box will probably give up working in near future!

At the first place you should not have used those additives; those additives will cause all internal rubber parts to get swollen yet no control.

I suggest you to go for for complete auto box repair or replacement with reliable used box asap

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  • 4 months later...

These kinds of problems most of the times you cannot resolve by changing the ATF. These should be repaired. Otherwise those 2,3 and 6 seconds will grow up for 1-2 minutes even. i had this problem with my vehicle. you will have to replace some plates and rubber rings inside the gear box. I can provide contact details of the AT repairing technician which i got repaired my vehicle if any one wants.

Could you pls give me the contact cause i am facing the problem once again. By the way exactly what did you do????

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The most probable cause is the internal oil rings get hardened due to the aging, causing pressure leakage.

With heating up those parts get swollen and hens stop leaking so gears working normal in the running temperature but the gear box will probably give up working in near future!

At the first place you should not have used those additives; those additives will cause all internal rubber parts to get swollen yet no control.

I suggest you to go for for complete auto box repair or replacement with reliable used box asap

Do you know a place where i coul get a a gear box??? how much will it cost???

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i am holding the brake on "D" at traffic

This isn't a good practice as when in "D" the car moves forward even without accelerating but with the brake that movement is stopped. So when sitting in traffic for long stops, particularly at red lights, with the shift in "D" simulataneously holding the brakes, the transmission is trying to push the car forward and the brakes are stopping it. With time....transmission problems.

When sitting in traffic with the brakes on, specially at red lights, shift one notch to "N". That way there is no strain on the gear box and also minimises problems. Ever thought what that "N" was for just in front of "D" ?

Edited by Magnum357
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These kinds of problems most of the times you cannot resolve by changing the ATF. These should be repaired. Otherwise those 2,3 and 6 seconds will grow up for 1-2 minutes even. i had this problem with my vehicle. you will have to replace some plates and rubber rings inside the gear box. I can provide contact details of the AT repairing technician which i got repaired my vehicle if any one wants.

So are you still using the same repaired one??? I am in a situation to decide what to do. cause if i have to change to a gear box, i have to be lucky to get one which will not give any problem. And at the same time its going to be a waste if repairing is not success. will have to take a gamble here.

Could you pls give me the details ahere i can get this repaired as well.

Pls help!!!!!!

Edited by ajwad
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When sitting in traffic with the brakes on, specially at red lights, shift one notch to "N". That way there is no strain on the gear box and also minimises problems. Ever thought what that "N" was for just in front of "D" ?

I have heard this is not good practise, and If you have the correct idle speed no need to do that.

Edited by whmsujith
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I have heard this is not good practise, and If you have the correct idle speed no need to do that.

Oh!! So what isn't good in it and what is the damage that could happen??

Even with the usual idling 750rpm shift into "D" and see what happens, the car moves forward even without accelarating. Similar to "clutch balancing" on inclines, it wears out the clutch plate faster in this instant in reference to automatics it creates gear slipping and various other problems with time.

Edited by Magnum357
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This isn't a good practice as when in "D" the car moves forward even without accelerating but with the brake that movement is stopped. So when sitting in traffic for long stops, particularly at red lights, with the shift in "D" simulataneously holding the brakes, the transmission is trying to push the car forward and the brakes are stopping it. With time....transmission problems.

When sitting in traffic with the brakes on, specially at red lights, shift one notch to "N". That way there is no strain on the gear box and also minimises problems. Ever thought what that "N" was for just in front of "D" ?

Oh!! So what isn't good in it and what is the damage that could happen??

Even with the usual idling 750rpm shift into "D" and see what happens, the car moves forward even without accelarating. Similar to "clutch balancing" on inclines, it wears out the clutch plate faster in this instant in reference to automatics it creates gear slipping and various other problems with time.

Absolute utter bullshit ! ! ! !

If you dont know what you are talking about dont talk at all, stop misguiding people .

Auto transmissions dont have a Clutch to start with, they have something called a "torque convertor" and there is no clutch slipping happening cause there isnt a clutch in the first place. The torque convertor does not have plates touching each other, the connection between the input shaft and the output shaft is established through oil and it does no damage what so ever to any part when one leaves the car in "D" and pressing the brakes for long periods. Again if you dont know what you are talking about just STFU !

For those of you who are confused here is how a torque convertor works

. Ever thought what that "N" was for just in front of "D" ?

We got a real smart one right here :rolleyes:

No you dumbass its for towing purposes ! ! ! If you had to constantly shift between D and N why the heck would one call it an "Automatic transmission", i dont see much difference between a manual and an auto if it was designed to do all this meddling around.

When sitting in traffic with the brakes on, specially at red lights, shift one notch to "N". That way there is no strain on the gear box and also minimises problems. Ever thought what that "N" was for just in front of "D" ?

sheessssshhhhhh, unbelievable :rolleyes:

How the hell can you have transmission issues when there isnt a single part inside the transmission moving when the brakes are applied ? When one applies the brakes all the parts leading up to the torque convertor (Axle > Gears > Output shaft) stop moving cause of the force from the brakes and only the input shaft from the engine is spinning. Get your facts straight ! ! !

Edited by The Stig
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Absolute utter bullshit ! ! ! !

If you dont know what you are talking about dont talk at all, stop misguiding people .

Auto transmissions dont have a Clutch to start with, they have something called a "torque convertor" and there is no clutch slipping happening cause there isnt a clutch in the first place. The torque convertor does not have plates touching each other, the connection between the input shaft and the output shaft is established through oil and it does no damage what so ever to any part when one leaves the car in "D" and pressing the brakes for long periods. Again if you dont know what you are talking about just STFU !

For those of you who are confused here is how a torque convertor works

We got a real smart one right here :rolleyes:

No you dumbass its for towing purposes ! ! ! If you had to constantly shift between D and N why the heck would one call it an "Automatic transmission", i dont see much difference between a manual and an auto if it was designed to do all this meddling around.

sheessssshhhhhh, unbelievable :rolleyes:

How the hell can you have transmission issues when there isnt a single part inside the transmission moving when the brakes are applied ? When one applies the brakes all the parts leading up to the torque convertor (Axle > Gears > Output shaft) stop moving cause of the force from the brakes and only the input shaft from the engine is spinning. Get your facts straight ! ! !

Spot on, stiggy. Completely correct on all three counts

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Absolute utter bullshit ! ! ! !

If you dont know what you are talking about dont talk at all, stop misguiding people .

Auto transmissions dont have a Clutch to start with, they have something called a "torque convertor" and there is no clutch slipping happening cause there isnt a clutch in the first place. The torque convertor does not have plates touching each other, the connection between the input shaft and the output shaft is established through oil and it does no damage what so ever to any part when one leaves the car in "D" and pressing the brakes for long periods. Again if you dont know what you are talking about just STFU !

For those of you who are confused here is how a torque convertor works

We got a real smart one right here :rolleyes:

No you dumbass its for towing purposes ! ! ! If you had to constantly shift between D and N why the heck would one call it an "Automatic transmission", i dont see much difference between a manual and an auto if it was designed to do all this meddling around.

sheessssshhhhhh, unbelievable :rolleyes:

How the hell can you have transmission issues when there isnt a single part inside the transmission moving when the brakes are applied ? When one applies the brakes all the parts leading up to the torque convertor (Axle > Gears > Output shaft) stop moving cause of the force from the brakes and only the input shaft from the engine is spinning. Get your facts straight ! ! !

My posting contained independant advise which I received from two professionals who are amply qualified mechanical engineers and are heading the workshops of two of the countries automobile dealerships. (Hyundai Lanka and LOLC Motors.)

The fact of the "clutch slipping" I mentioned was with reference to a manual transmission. Where on an incline the gear can be engaged and with the clutch engaged halfway the vehicle can be stopped from rolling backwards without the use of the brakes. When this is done the clutch plate wears out faster I was told. Similarly in an automatic when the brake is pressed in "D" the forward momentum is stopped by the wheels braking and not by the transmission disengaging, the momentum of the transmission is stopped with the resistance from the wheels. I was told when this happens the strain is on what is called the " wet-plate clutch packs" within the automatic transmission box and with time gears not engaging, gears slipping etc etc are the problems than can arise in an automatic transmission. This is not what I am saying but independantly verified by these two engineers.

Though you authoritatively informed with much pomp and glory that there is no clutch in an automatic transmission there is a clutch. They are called wet-plate clutches. Here are the components of an automatic transmission

The planetary gearset

The set of bands to lock parts of a gearset

The set of three wet-plate clutches to lock other parts of the gearset

The hydraulic system that controls the clutches and bands

The large gear pump to move transmission fluid around

So "Pundit Professor" there is something called a clutch in an automatic transmission.

I do not know what competency you have in the field of automobile engineering and whether you are more qualified and have more experience than these two individuals BUT this is the advice I received and I was just passing on that information for the benefit of the members.

Edited by Magnum357
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Members,

I got the below from the web.

Symptoms of a slipping transmission. Generally speaking, when you're talking about a slipping transmission, you're talking about an automatic. There are clutch bands in an automatic transmission that grip the various gear sets to transfer power from the engine to the wheels. If these bands do not have enough force to grip down tightly enough, they will slip and you will get various problems, most notably the vehicle will have difficulty accelerating. When you step on the gas, you might see the tachometer increase in speed, but the vehicle speed itself doesn't increase. The vehicle might not move at all if the bands are loose enough. Now there are several causes for this. There could be something as simple as not enough fluid in the transmission so that it's unable to create the hydraulic pressure necessary to engage the bands. There also could be blockages in the valve body or in the various fluid passages in the transmission that could be keeping it from engaging properly. The bands themselves could just be worn. In which case they need to be adjusted or replaced, and the solenoids that engage the bands could be failing or failed and not able to engage the bands themselves.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

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Members,

I got the below from the web.

Symptoms of a slipping transmission. Generally speaking, when you're talking about a slipping transmission, you're talking about an automatic. There are clutch bands in an automatic transmission that grip the various gear sets to transfer power from the engine to the wheels. If these bands do not have enough force to grip down tightly enough, they will slip and you will get various problems, most notably the vehicle will have difficulty accelerating. When you step on the gas, you might see the tachometer increase in speed, but the vehicle speed itself doesn't increase. The vehicle might not move at all if the bands are loose enough. Now there are several causes for this. There could be something as simple as not enough fluid in the transmission so that it's unable to create the hydraulic pressure necessary to engage the bands. There also could be blockages in the valve body or in the various fluid passages in the transmission that could be keeping it from engaging properly. The bands themselves could just be worn. In which case they need to be adjusted or replaced, and the solenoids that engage the bands could be failing or failed and not able to engage the bands themselves.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

Sylivi has quite correctly mentioned with reference to gears slipping on an automatic that the bands themselves could just be worn and in which case they need to be adjusted or replaced.

Now I have been told that one reason for these bands and the wet-plate clutches to wear out faster is depressing the brake at long stops such as at red lights with the transmission on "D" where the momentum of the transmission is forcefully stopped by the wheels through the brakes. Doing this regularly in city traffic will in a few years result in problems with the transmission.

This is similar to the practice of doing a "clutch balance" in a manual transmission on an incline, the clutch plate wears out faster.

Either of these practices is not good and that was what I posted for the benefit of the members.

This thread originated with a member having a problem with the car moving in "D" only after about 20seconds after accelerating which indicated that it was slipping in "D" and the member has also mentioned that the car vibrates while standing on the brakes with the transmission in "D", which very likely indicated a problem in the automatic gear box rather than the torque converter.

Of course the "know alls" will now come out again with a barrage of filth and irrelevencies!

Edited by Magnum357
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