Idle

[kmcsb]

hey friend,

When i start my car in ther morning usullay car getting 2-3 miutes to warm up and reduce rpm and gets idle..but since last two days my warm up isnt get idle..its took more time thn i push accerator padle once, finally t got normally fine (got idle)..today i did same metod..normally i keep let it warm and after idle i started to go forward...

but this seniro i should paddle my accerlate..why is tht..plz help

[kmcsb]

anyone there??

[CJ5]

anyone there??

Our experts don't seem to be around!

Does your car have a carb or EFI????

[kmcsb]

mine carb machan

[Rumesh88]

Just open the air cleaner cover and do a cold start. You should be able to see the choke flap operating. I do not know ur car model but the choke mechanism is usually vacuum operated first to give you a high idle and then with the help of a bi-metallic mechanism it is returned to its operating position after a couple of minutes. Did you tune the idle or any related mechanism recently, or high pressure cleaning of the engine? It may be due to leaky vacuum line on the idle mechanism. When you rev up and return the throttle to idle it generated an additional vacuum at the intake thus compensating for loss of vacuum due to a possible leak.

Edited March 18, 2013 by Rumesh88

[kmcsb]

machan if i do a tuneup will it resolve my problem...???

[Rumesh88]

machan if i do a tuneup will it resolve my problem...???

Not according to my definition of a tune up! What you need is someone to diagnose the problem, rectify it and then do a tune up as a follow up. Blindly doing a tuning up and expecting it to solve the issue is not the right approach. Now the question is if you can find the right "someone" who would solve your problem without messing it up.

[H.C]

It seems like your fast idle unloader mechanism is not working properly. As rumesh said it could be either vaccum related issue or just stuck linkage. I'll try to upload the related troubleshooting page in the user manual .

[sira]

hey friend,

When i start my car in ther morning usullay car getting 2-3 miutes to warm up and reduce rpm and gets idle..but since last two days my warm up isnt get idle..its took more time thn i push accerator padle once, finally t got normally fine (got idle)..today i did same metod..normally i keep let it warm and after idle i started to go forward...

but this seniro i should paddle my accerlate..why is tht..plz help

Is this EK3? if then this issue is one of common . because the Idle up control valve get stuck some times. it needs to be cleanned. i do not think do a tune up for this small matter

sira

Edited March 18, 2013 by sira

[kmcsb]

mine eg8 single carb

[rasika fernando]

also check your idle control diaphagram. if it stucked the engine rasied abnormally. it is also vaccum operated.

[Rumesh88]

mine eg8 single carb

Is it an EG8 with a D15B4 engine? In fact when you depress your accelerator pedal once before you start a cold engine the fast idle cam returns to its homing position and the choke closes . This is normal. As I told you before you can see this if you remove the air filter cover. If you don't mind would you explain what exactly happens in a cold start. My apologies for I am a bit confused.

[kmcsb]

Recently i put my car for AC service. Since then the engine wont get to idle and stop racing until I press the peddle. If I dont press it it's just keep in high idle.

BTW it's a D15B engine.

[Rumesh88]

Recently i put my car for AC service. Since then the engine wont get to idle and stop racing until I press the peddle. If I dont press it it's just keep in high idle.

BTW it's a D15B engine.

There you are! I misunderstood the issue with your first post but now it is clear.

What you have is a mechanical linkage and a electrically operated auto-choke to control idle. Someone may have meddled with the linkage while servicing the AC if there is some problem with the linkage now. There is absolutely no reason for them to do so but there are "monkeys" working at some of these places.

However, before coming to conclusion that there is something wrong with your idle mechanism just do the following test.

1. Before you start the engine when it is COLD, press the pedal once and slowly release it. Now you start the engine with AC, blower, headlights off. Normally your engine should go to fast idle at over 2000 rpm ad slowly fall back to 800 rpm.

2. Now with engine idling at 800 (may be slightly deviated) switch on headlights, blower and AC one by one and see if the idle is stable at around 800.

Let me know the results. Note the deviations if any from the given figures.

[kmcsb]

machan i did the cold start u mentioned...but the problem is car doing fast idle but not stop....i waited so long (about 6minuts) but car not falled back normal rpm...so i just press the gas padel once and suddly car came back to normal rpm speed...

normaly past days (before repair A/C) first car doing high idle and after 3minuts came back to normal speed...

[maheshw]

why dont you check the whole idle up & return mechanism whether it's doing the correct job on time or not ? i feel the returning process is having a issue thats why only once you press the gas padel its coming back.

[Rumesh88]

Oops!. Please ignore my previous posts. In that case the problem should be with the fast idle cam unloader which is a dash pot close to the choke coil heater. There is a vacuum hose connected to this dash pot. This vacuum line comes through a thermo-valve which is made to operate on coolant temperature. If you can pull it out and temporary plug it with a stopper, you can do a cold start and see if the engine goes to normal high idle. You should not detect any vacuum if you remove the stopper at this stage. Now as the engine warms up the thermo-valve would open up and pass intake vacuum on to the dash pot. If you remove the stopper at this stage the engine would stall but you can quickly reconnect it to see if the idle drops. If there is no vacuum on this line when the engine is hot then you need to check the thermo-valve for correct operation or otherwise there is something wrong with the unloader linkage. This should be easily identifiable. The carbs that came for Honda Civics of this age are usually much more advanced and complicated than those of the other comparable Jap cars of the same age. But they are really interesting master pieces of Jap design.

Edited March 20, 2013 by Rumesh88

[H.C]

Man! this is the first time I got to know a person who knows these D15 carbs like you do,Rumesh. I learnt some of the stuff going through service manual and few Honda forums and DIY weekends .Its a releif to know that you are around to get an advise!

Edited March 20, 2013 by H.C

[kmcsb]

machan im not good in mechanical side...will it be easily repair...do i need anything to replze with (repair kits...)??? can it be repair by normal mechanic or should i bring this to honda specilist...

Edited March 20, 2013 by kmcsb

[Rumesh88]

If mechanics is not your taste then better refer it to a specialist. It is highly unlikely that you would have to replace anything but if it is the dash pot or the thermo-valve fault then you may have to replace them. But both these gadgets are highly reliable parts. Explain to the mechanic of your choice the problem and it is better if you can convince him to check the things I told you to do. It is a very simple procedure. But with some specialists this is not possible because of their attitude. BTW I do not see any urgency to rectify this for it would not cause any other problem except for a minor inconvenience. Take your time to find the right guy and get it done.

[kmcsb]

ok thanks machan..that's a realif

[H.C]

In early days of my ownership, I went to a so called Honda guru in Kesbewa area to repair the carb. When I bought it there was no thermovalve in the intake manifold and hoses were clamped. I asked him to repair it in properway and his answere was its not that important and no need to rectify it. Only good thing was it helped me to read about the d15 b carbs and got most things corrected by myself.

[Rumesh88]

In early days of my ownership, I went to a so called Honda guru in Kesbewa area to repair the carb. When I bought it there was no thermovalve in the intake manifold and hoses were clamped. I asked him to repair it in properway and his answere was its not that important and no need to rectify it. Only good thing was it helped me to read about the d15 b carbs and got most things corrected by myself.

This is exactly what I encourage people to do. You are absolutely correct when it comes to some of the carb gurus here. All they do is plug up the hoses and bypass electrical lines that they cannot understand. Then they say "mahaththaya me model eka mehema thamai". I have seen how they mess up even simple Jap carbs like those in KE20s let alone a one in a EG8. BTW I find it difficult to relate to some of the models in SL for my exposure to auto maintenance (it is not my profession though) was mainly in the ME particularly for pre-2000 models. Most of the time I ask for the engine type for it is only then I am able to recollect the exact picture.

Edited March 20, 2013 by Rumesh88

[H.C]

This is exactly what I encourage people to do. You are absolutely correct when it comes to some of the carb gurus here. All they do is plug up the hoses and bypass electrical lines that they cannot understand. Then they say "mahaththaya me model eka mehema thamai". I have seen how they mess up even simple Jap carbs like those in KE20s let alone a one in a EG8. BTW I find it difficult to relate to some of the models in SL for my exposure to auto maintenance (it is not my profession though) was mainly in the ME particularly for pre-2000 models. Most of the time I ask for the engine type for it is only then I am able to recollect the exact picture.

Spot on mate. I dont recommend any of these popular Honda gurus to any one,specially when repairing D series carbs.

[Black Death]

a dose of carb & choke cleaner might do the trick