Help With My Eg8

kmcsb · July 8, 2014

speedmoeter is working now.....

my other gauges are working well also except temp....

when i switch on my temp needl goes top high end....(red mark)

my previus meterboard temp was woking well...

also do you know any plz/person to adjust mileage..??

Davy · July 8, 2014

On 7/8/2014 at 7:01 AM, kmcsb said:
speedmoeter is working now.....
my other gauges are working well also except temp....

when i switch on my temp needl goes top high end....(red mark)

my previus meterboard temp was woking well...

also do you know any plz/person to adjust mileage..??

Does the temp needle come back to it's normal reading when you start the engine?

For your question about adjusting mileage, I don't think anyone on the forum is allowed to answer that question. Since this is a genuine question, your best bet would be an auto electrician.

kmcsb · July 8, 2014

ok ill ask from technician ..

when i start the engine temp needle goes directly to high mark(when hot engine)....and needle goes to middle position (@ cold engine)....but when i switch off car needle come to low position...

The Don · July 8, 2014

On 7/8/2014 at 9:45 AM, kmcsb said:
ok ill ask from technician ..
when i start the engine temp needle goes directly to high mark(when hot engine)....and needle goes to middle position (@ cold engine)....but when i switch off car needle come to low position...

Was the new meter board out of use for a while? If so its possible some contacts have just corroded a bit leading to inconsistent operation. Most things are electronic in most newer instrument clusters.

As many have suggested, just take the car or the meter cluster to a good auto electrician or an expert in repairing meter clusters and the issues can be resolved.

If you search the forum you might find some details or fellow member komisiripala said he knows a good guy in Bellanwila

Edited July 8, 2014 by The Don

Komisiripala · July 8, 2014

yeah i was about to recommend malinga in bellanwila. he's an ace at this sort of thing. and odometer recaibration can be done as well. simple thing. but will cost you. he doesn't come cheap.

apparently i have a "reputation" for recommending hideously expensive baases/mechanics. one member has been kind and snide enough to point out. so i'm warning you. bugger is NOT cheap. there are some of us who don't mind paying money to get GOOD work done.

so don't go there if you're expecting all this solved for 200 rupees. but he will solve this for you, and once you go there, you'll see why we pay him what we pay him!

number is 0773072840

MasterDon · July 8, 2014

That member making "snide remarks" would be me.

Is it a coincidence that all the places that Komi recomends are the places with the most hype?

Why don't you post up the cost of getting things done by Ashan and Sacha eh?

It's is not like other people skimp on their cars.The thing is we get better work done with half the cost and more efficiently.Because we don't go running to Sacha everytime we to get a tube bent.they don't go running around like a rabid dog to Ashan or Zakkie just cos of a misfire...

Dude the time that baas is taking to do that Datsun's tinkering is frankly embarrasing.It'd be a days job for my people at most...but then again why not milk their cash cow to the max neda?

I have always told Komi he can spend whatever he wants on his own cars but when reccommending other places to newbies to atleast mention the cost...because they might think his way is the only option.

You may have seen when I or a few other people here reply to a post we give out several options so the original poster can decide for himself what must be done....This going to outrageously expensive places or nothing method that Komi has introduced is harmful on so many levels ans displays his inexperience.It's because people like him that many think project cars are expensive business.Actually it most definately is not If you are smart.Trust me.

That's it.i only replied cos my name was mentioned offhandedly...I will not reply anymore unless further attacks are made toward me cos it can get very ugly.

Edited July 8, 2014 by MasterDon

Komisiripala · July 8, 2014

1. i'm yet to get anything done by sacha. i can't afford him. but i admire his work.

2. i tried skimping on the teg and learned hard lessons. compromising on quality does have its repercussions and i have suffered them. and in my threads i have documented those instances jsut as well as the ones where i have not compromised on quality. so i don't know what you're mooning about

3. recommendadtions are jsut that. RECOMMENDATIONS. i assume people here are sentient adult human beings who have an idea how much money they have with them, so they can go to a place and get a QUOTATION, and then go ahead if they can afford it.

4. watch frozen. sing "let it go" a few times. might help.

Edited July 8, 2014 by Komisiripala

MasterDon · July 8, 2014

Watched 'Frozen' but I like 'Tangled' more...so I think I'll keep hanging on and not let go. : D

kmcsb · July 8, 2014

i asked from fb guys..some are recomand priyantha motors -kiulapone ...do you know them.some of saying he's resonable..how about his work and price??

normally how much is cost for reset odometer???

The Don · July 8, 2014

There is another meter cluster, ECU specialist in Kiribathgoda or somewhere close. If somebody has the details please share.

Edited July 8, 2014 by The Don

H.C · July 9, 2014

I think I can help you , if you are willing to go in DIY path. Ive replaced my needles and gauge faces along with malfunctioned speedometer mechanism sometime back and encountered few of your issues. (You can easily remove the cluster and individual gauges after going through the service manual)

This is the fix for the temp gauge;

1).First remove the new gauge cluster and remove the top plastic cover.

2) Fix the cluster back temporally without the cover

3). Then start the vehicle and let it comes to working temperature. (Wait till your radiator fan comes on and off twice)

4.) According to your post now needle would be at H area.Then very gently turn the needle to normal position (just below the mid point in EGs). Then turn off the ignition and turn on again.

5).Then remove the cluster carefully without touching needles and put the cover back.

H.C · July 9, 2014

How did you calibrated your fuel gauge. Ideally you have to turn the fuel gauge needle to old ones mark to get the right calibration. Only option available now is pump full tank and turn it to highest position.

(Ive done most of above in my gauge cluster and it still working fine and hope you too have a working cluster at the end. Remember not to put excessive force when working with gauge cluster and go through online DIY projects beforehand)

H.C · July 9, 2014

For the speedometer, you can swap the old mechanism with the odometer .(surprisingly those are made by seiko)

Only issue is that you have to remove the speedo needle to remove the old mechanism. You can use a fork to remove the needle but I won't recommend it unless you are good with these sort of diy work and brave and may be little crazy!

Davy · July 9, 2014

On 7/9/2014 at 3:03 AM, H.C said:
For the speedometer, you can swap the old mechanism with the odometer .(surprisingly those are made by seiko) Only issue is that you have to remove the speedo needle to remove the old mechanism. You can use a fork to remove the needle but I won't recommend it unless you are good with these sort of diy work and brave and may be little crazy!

Crazy is a must!

Well I think OP has found a good source of info here who has hands on experience in doing this. All you need to do now is put on your crazy hat and get to work!

kmcsb · July 9, 2014

my friend H.C ..for fuel gauge reset i did a trick ...

1.remove cover and remove both connectors..

2.very gentely rotate fuel needle to high mark...

3.then plug onlt right side connector only (10 pin)..and turn ur ingingtion on.. then youll notice your needle come to down litllt by little and stop some point..( i think thts the fuel level mark)

4.then turn off igingation..

5.then plug the other connector (12pin)...

6.fix the cover ..

7..and reistall gauge cluster..

anyways i tried tht temp will work on you method...

Edited July 9, 2014 by kmcsb

kmcsb · July 9, 2014

rumesh i read you pdf top to bottom and diagnosost my problem i think.. i found out tht #20 vaccum line has no vaccum.... only got outter hose( tht goes to a/c idel boost soloneid valve )..when ac is on..

idle boost throttle controller has both vacuum..it means controller is working right??

#20 vaccum hose no vaccum mens there a problem in idle boost soloneid valve (in cotrol box)..isnt it ??? i tried to remove top cover of contol box but im unable to do it...

if it is tht issue will tht valve able to find it in local market...??

kmcsb · July 9, 2014

Rumesh88 · July 9, 2014

On 7/9/2014 at 4:54 AM, kmcsb said:
rumesh i read you pdf top to bottom and diagnosost my problem i think.. i found out tht #20 vaccum line has no vaccum.... only got outter hose( tht goes to a/c idel boost soloneid valve )..when ac is on..
idle boost throttle controller has both vacuum..it means controller is working right??

#20 vaccum hose no vaccum mens there a problem in idle boost soloneid valve (in cotrol box)..isnt it ??? i tried to remove top cover of contol box but im unable to do it...

if it is tht issue will tht valve able to find it in local market...??

You should be able to open the cover and access the idle control valve. I'm a bit confused with your explanation above but if you have vacuum at the input to the valve but not at the output when the ~~AC is~~ lights are on, you need to check if you get 12V (Battery voltage) to operate it. First check that before going looking for a valve.

Edited July 9, 2014 by Rumesh88

kmcsb · July 9, 2014

first i chked #20 vacuum hose by hedlight/bower/ac off......then ther has no vacuum

after tht i swich on blower and headlight only ... still no vaccum got... ( it think if valve is working ,then there should be vaccum when headlight and blow on)..is it ??

Rumesh88 · July 9, 2014

On 7/9/2014 at 6:19 AM, kmcsb said:
first i chked #20 vacuum hose by hedlight/bower/ac off......then ther has no vacuum
after tht i swich on blower and headlight only ... still no vaccum got... ( it think if valve is working ,then there should be vaccum when headlight and blow on)..is it ??

Just two things to check before you conclude 1. whether you have vacuum at the input to the valve, and 2. you get 12V to operate the valve. If both conditions are OK then it is the valve that is faulty.

H.C · July 9, 2014

On 7/9/2014 at 3:17 AM, Davy said:
Crazy is a must!
Well I think OP has found a good source of info here who has hands on experience in doing this. All you need to do now is put on your crazy hat and get to work!

You too belong to the same crazy group machan!. Only issue is its bit difficult to find time to do these crazy stuff nowadays.

kmcsb · July 11, 2014

Hi rumesh

I tried to remove that control box (vacuum box) but I'm unable to do..I need to figure out why is idle boost solenoid valve is...

I think it is the issue..is it easy to find replace part..do you have its OEM number..

Also I chked my air idle valve vaccum(eacv) hose has blocked by some maksbaas..

I cked it by removing its connector plugged and unplugged.. At that moment I heard some pop sound coming from that valve..is that mean it's working right...and I feel there's a vacuum coming inside of it...but I don't know why they blocked it...it it OK to replze new vacuum hose for that...

Edited July 12, 2014 by kmcsb

Rumesh88 · July 12, 2014

On 7/11/2014 at 4:58 PM, kmcsb said:
Hi rumesh
I tried to remove that control box (vacuum box) but I'm unable to do..I need to figure out why is idle boost solenoid valve is...

I think it is the issue..is it easy to find replace part..do you have its OEM number..

Also I chked my air idle valve vaccum(eacv) hose has blocked by some maksbaas..

I cked it by removing its connector plugged and unplugged.. At that moment I heard some pop sound coming from that valve..is that mean it's working right...and I feel there's a vacuum coming inside of it...but I don't know why they blocked it...it it OK to replze new vacuum hose for that...

This box has a lid fixed with two screws as I remember. You should be able to open it without much problem. (If you open it check the small air filter inside the box for clogging. I do not think it has ever been cleaned or replaced). I'm afraid I do not have the OEM reference of the vacuum switch but it is not difficult to find one for it is a common part. But before replacing it make sure you get the voltage to operate it. By EACV hose do you mean the hose from EACV to the air cleaner? I do not see a reason to remove it but you can connect a new hose.

kmcsb · July 12, 2014

OK that's a relief..now i trying to remove box.and I have no I idea its stuck somewhere.and I'm unable to remove the lid...and where is the filter?? How am I clean it??
For eacv ..yes some one has block eacv to air filter hose.when i inspect i saw some rubber ball inside tht hose...so I'm going to replazce with a new hose..thanks...

Edited July 13, 2014 by kmcsb

kmcsb · July 14, 2014

OK I finally I chekd both (idle solenoid valve and eacv valve)got voltage..I ckecked by electrican...

So I replaze new hose to eacv and start engine..but car got poor idle(rpm goes up and down)..so I replazed with old hose again..now idle is came back to normal..

Then I remove the vaccum box however..I saw that air filter is full of junk and half of paper is damaged to..is it difficult to find that air filter??

I cleaned it by vaccum cleaner..

I saw the idle boost solenoid valve but its far inside..unable to see it completely..but I inspect wheter there broken hose..but not..all are seems OK..

So I reset cover and start car..still same rumesh..

Idle is OK..

Ac idle is OK..but only issue is when turning on hedlights,blower,apply brake rpm goes down to low(500,300)..