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Ek3 Rear Suspension


sira

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Dear friends

I noticed that my EK3 rear suspension is not very much comfortable. Because when i had FB13 and it was very comfortable with rear and front.

i was using this EK3 since 2011 and changed all the struts units 4,5 months back with brand called "tokiko" and i notice the front suspensions are really good. But rear is not that good.

I believe this EK3 made with some sport type of design. The shock absorbers are looks sport type with small inner diameter of coil springs…etc so cannot have more comfortable with this.

Do you think this is nature of this car?

Some time back when I take a bend with on a irregular road (few small bumps on the bend) and noticed that rear side is dragging . so I think the shocks are not very good. But they were new and should not having any issue.

sira

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Dear friends

I noticed that my EK3 rear suspension is not very much comfortable. Because when i had FB13 and it was very comfortable with rear and front.

i was using this EK3 since 2011 and changed all the struts units 4,5 months back with brand called "tokiko" and i notice the front suspensions are really good. But rear is not that good.

I believe this EK3 made with some sport type of design. The shock absorbers are looks sport type with small inner diameter of coil springs…etc so cannot have more comfortable with this.

Do you think this is nature of this car?

Some time back when I take a bend with on a irregular road (few small bumps on the bend) and noticed that rear side is dragging . so I think the shocks are not very good. But they were new and should not having any issue.

sira

Your ride height is not determined by the quality of your shock absorbers, if your replacements conform to oem specs. If anything they are determined by the spring but then your spring is the original spring.

Ironically as shocks become weaker, you get a softer ride (albeit slightly bouncier ride) which some people find more comfortable in bumpy roads. But this is a fault rather than something beneficial. So when you switch to new shocks the ride might feel a little uncomfortable. But rest assured they are doing their job. Remember shocks perform two functions. They provide relative ride comfort but they also help with handling and breaking. If the shocks are too soft there would be excessive body roll and the car won't be able to maintain grip.

You can't compare a FB 13 to an EK3. Each car is setup differently for their markets. Honda would obviously be setup more towards better handling resulting in a slightly harder ride.

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Thanks Don

do you think the tokiko's are not good? i feel so. After i noticed this issue i dismantle the shock absorber and inspect the strut unit. they looks ok and in 3-5 sec the rod will raise.

Before the tokiko i had used kyb for a few weeks time from y friend as a used shocks. They will come up in 7-8 sec. what i believe (pls correct me if this wrong) the when the spring is pressed , it should be released slowly with pressure of the strut unit. if the strut is quick then it feels the so hard.

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Thanks Don

do you think the tokiko's are not good? i feel so. After i noticed this issue i dismantle the shock absorber and inspect the strut unit. they looks ok and in 3-5 sec the rod will raise.

Before the tokiko i had used kyb for a few weeks time from y friend as a used shocks. They will come up in 7-8 sec. what i believe (pls correct me if this wrong) the when the spring is pressed , it should be released slowly with pressure of the strut unit. if the strut is quick then it feels the so hard.

The hardness you feel is when the spring is compressed and the shock absorber has contracted but has not retracted yet. So in the next bounce the spring is still compressed. This is done so that the car does not start to bounce around in a rough road, but after a few bumps you will start to feel the bumps more as the spring does not get the opportunity to fully uncompress (bump after bump after bump).

Tokico shocks are good. But the important thing here is you replace like for like.

I think you are worrying over nothing.

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Thanks Don

I also noticed when I drive over the cat Eye (metal square) I feel so hard on rear wheels, I can feel that front wheels are absorbing and rear wheel are not. they bump hard with sound.

is there any posibilty to spring become hard due to age...etc?

or may be tokiko is not compatible with spring.

any EK3 owner noticed this issue so far?

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Thanks Don

I also noticed when I drive over the cat Eye (metal square) I feel so hard on rear wheels, I can feel that front wheels are absorbing and rear wheel are not. they bump hard with sound.

is there any posibilty to spring become hard due to age...etc?

or may be tokiko is not compatible with spring.

any EK3 owner noticed this issue so far?

Do you have the same brand of tyre on both your front and back?

Spring tension do not normally change with age.

I think for your model the OEM is Tokiko.

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Under "common issue with EK3" topic one member called evergreen has posted some thing about the rear suspension issue due to duplicate training arm. just want to know more about it

Edited by sira
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29-30

Did you mean to say 29 front and 30 rear?

If that is the case, then you might be running with over inflated tyres at the back. Usually the front tyre pressure is higher than of the rear tyres for front-engine cars. What does your B-pillar tyre inflation pressure chart say?

If tyre pressure is good and if shocks and bushes are okay, then it could be due to misaligned rear wheels.

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Under "common issue with EK3" topic one member called evergreen has posted some thing about the rear suspension issue due to duplicate training arm. just want to know more about it

I guess you mean duplicate trailing arm. Its the suspension arm that connects the rear hub with the front of the car.

If replacing suspension components like trailing arms, wish bones, links etc, you either need to use genuine parts or good quality replacements like 555. This is because the length of these components need to be correct and the bushes in them good quality and the correct size and shape.

In SL to save money we replace just the bushes. I do the same. But if the bush isn't correctly formed and the exact size it can upset the suspension geometry causing unusual suspension movements perhps giving the sensation of bounce when you fall into a pot hole for example. This sometimes happens when the arms and links get bent due to our bad roads. There is another thread somewhere by fellow member Amila G, where he had such a problem with his CE110.

To figure out if you have such an issue you need to take it to a wheel alignment place who understands suspension geometry not one which stares at computers. The place he went to in Walana Panadura is quite famous, and so is Car Care in Wellawatte.

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I guess you mean duplicate trailing arm. Its the suspension arm that connects the rear hub with the front of the car.

If replacing suspension components like trailing arms, wish bones, links etc, you either need to use genuine parts or good quality replacements like 555. This is because the length of these components need to be correct and the bushes in them good quality and the correct size and shape.

In SL to save money we replace just the bushes. I do the same. But if the bush isn't correctly formed and the exact size it can upset the suspension geometry causing unusual suspension movements perhps giving the sensation of bounce when you fall into a pot hole for example. This sometimes happens when the arms and links get bent due to our bad roads. There is another thread somewhere by fellow member Amila G, where he had such a problem with his CE110.

To figure out if you have such an issue you need to take it to a wheel alignment place who understands suspension geometry not one which stares at computers. The place he went to in Walana Panadura is quite famous, and so is Car Care in Wellawatte.

You're right The Don. This is exactly what I meant in my earlier post when I said "misaligned rear wheels". Honda's multi-link rear suspension is composed of a few tiny links that probably end up getting a good beating on our local roads. As a result, the entire rear suspension would be extending a lot of tension on the wheels which in turn gets released as the wheel goes over a bump (or cat's eye).

Sadly, most wheel alignment places only have the facility to adjust the front suspension components. I've heard about this place in Walana. Do they check misalignment all round?

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You're right The Don. This is exactly what I meant in my earlier post when I said "misaligned rear wheels". Honda's multi-link rear suspension is composed of a few tiny links that probably end up getting a good beating on our local roads. As a result, the entire rear suspension would be extending a lot of tension on the wheels which in turn gets released as the wheel goes over a bump (or cat's eye).

Sadly, most wheel alignment places only have the facility to adjust the front suspension components. I've heard about this place in Walana. Do they check misalignment all round?

I've not had experience with the Walana place but have heard good things about them from the forum.

I take mine to car care as its closer to where I live. They are pretty good. For one they have told me that the bushes I've used to replace my rail multi link bushes ain't very good, though they did their best to get it as close to manufacturer spec as possible.

I ditched the workshop which I used for the job as they bought the crappy bushes and charged me a fortune for it when I could have just used replacement links which aren't that expensive.

On the front with the help of some camber bolts they got my camber right and the toe correct so the car now goes in a straight line when I let go of the steering wheel. The steering genuinely feels different after their treatment.

I also know the castor on my passenger side wheel is about 5cm off. This was possibly the result of an accident on the driver side or bad roads. Its not a bent wishbone. But it seems to make no big difference to the driving experience and they assured me it would be ok and does not need to be corrected. The only way to correct it properly is to hook it up to a jig and pull the mounting point forward, but I'm scared to give it to a garage as they might pull the arm forward and twist the arm instead.

So bottom line is they were very detailed in their analysis and their solutions have worked.

Both the Walana place and Car Care have hydraulic pullers as well to correct some suspension issues but I've never seen one being used while I've had my cars attended to on my car or any other car over.

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I've not had experience with the Walana place but have heard good things about them from the forum.

I take mine to car care as its closer to where I live. They are pretty good. For one they have told me that the bushes I've used to replace my rail multi link bushes ain't very good, though they did their best to get it as close to manufacturer spec as possible.

I ditched the workshop which I used for the job as they bought the crappy bushes and charged me a fortune for it when I could have just used replacement links which aren't that expensive.

On the front with the help of some camber bolts they got my camber right and the toe correct so the car now goes in a straight line when I let go of the steering wheel. The steering genuinely feels different after their treatment.

I also know the castor on my passenger side wheel is about 5cm off. This was possibly the result of an accident on the driver side or bad roads. Its not a bent wishbone. But it seems to make no big difference to the driving experience and they assured me it would be ok and does not need to be corrected. The only way to correct it properly is to hook it up to a jig and pull the mounting point forward, but I'm scared to give it to a garage as they might pull the arm forward and twist the arm instead.

So bottom line is they were very detailed in their analysis and their solutions have worked.

Both the Walana place and Car Care have hydraulic pullers as well to correct some suspension issues but I've never seen one being used while I've had my cars attended to on my car or any other car over.

That's pretty good. I've never had experience with Car Care because I go to the closest wheel alignment place whenever I need to get a job done. I've not had major alignment problems yet, but I sure will keep Car Care also in mind. It's always good to go to a place that knows everything about what they're doing and explain it properly. Not many places really do that.

About your caster angle, I really don't think it would affect your driving experience. The only thing I can think of happening is the tyre coming into contact with the wheel well while taking a sharp bend (at full lock) on a very bumpy road. Highly unlikely scenario though for a 5cm offset. :)

Maybe OP can take the car to Care Care and have them check the alignment.

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  • 8 months later...
thanks Don

Yes tyres are same brand. replaced 4 of them at once. the oem shock was Showa. but the part numbers are compatible with oem and tokiko.

3736 front

2937 rear

Hi

My Tokiko's are looks very hard now. today i check with a mechanic and he inspect and said it is very hard to push the rod. he compared with OEM shock which is bit a ok. (only one unit). recently i change all the buses of my car including trailing arm ,,etc.

please advice me if the struct rod i very tight , will this happen. i can once i press the rod i will come up in 2, 3 sec.

sira

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Struts usually become weaker and softer as they age. So my opinion is that your struts are still okay. But then again if the struts have a lot of miles on them and since you did a complete rear suspension repair, it only makes sense to replace the them as well.

The OEM shock that your mechanic compared this to... Was that a new one or a used one?

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Davy

It was a used one. which i removed year ago. he said the struct cannot compress for a sudden impact . then the SHOWA can act it nicely. so i have removed the Tokiko and replaced with OEM ones y'day and i can feel it is better now. unfortunately the left one is much warn than righ. (right one the rod comes around 3-5 sec and left one will come only half)

Sira

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Your mechanic did two things wrong:

1. Comparing a used strut with a newer one, when done will obviously give the results you explained.

2. Telling you that a strut is supposed to "compress" on sudden impact. This is not really correct. A shockabsorber actually dampens the impact. It shouldn't be easily retractable.

So are you saying that your mechanic installed two older struts? Or did you buy new OEM ones?

Also, read the second paragraph of The Don's first response on this thread.

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Thanks Davy

Last September i replace all bushes on my EK3. rear thralling arm, upper arm..... and front . all together 24 bushes all were them "febest" from tech motors

the trailing arm bushes were racing one as i'm not mistaken it was febset 110.

I think that was the issue, well i will replace then with oem and see it

Thanks

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  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Finally i changed my rear struct units with Showa re-con units.  Yes. believe me , they are really smooth than tokiko and KYB. Found them on ######.lk with cheap price.

what i noticed was they are very smooth in operation. when depressed, they go very quickly and take more some time to come out comparatively other brands.  I drove n bad road with humps and holes also express way, big difference with rear side.(front is still tokioko.)

thank you for all of you who contributed with this topic. i admit that i have crated few post regarding with this issue and they should merged. do not know how to do that and is there any way i can delete other posts please

Thank you 

 

sira

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