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Heating Issue Peugeot


Clivelloydrocks

Question

Hi,

I'm using a Peugeot 307 triptronic 2002 YOM.

Currently I'm suffering with a automatic gear fault and it will be repaired in next week, however my problem is that, car start to increase the heat significantly after I stop it, the fans are on,this can be observed when I immediately switch on (not start the engine) the car but not after keeping it for a while. The entire radiator is on coolest not water.

My question is it related to the gear box ? Or something separate if so can somebody advice me what to do.

Thank you

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Since you mentioned the gearbox issue is it running on high revs than usual?when do you put on huge ignition does your fans come even on the first start?

Also check your thermostat valve? Could be clogged.

Edited by pug306xsi
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Do you have enough coolant in the system?

From what I understand, during the cars normal operation the temperature remains normal

But if you stop the car, and then move the switch to the on position, the temperature guage rises to critical level

If you leave the car and do the same, the above does not happen

Am I correct?

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Thank you very much for the reply

Spot on don can you please help? I'm only using coolent and its in the right level, further temperature gauge increase more then 90 up to 95 and around when I'm driving too.

I'm not familiar with the peugeot temperature gauge but only remember that it has to be around the middle mark. Can you tell me what temperature is on around the centre mark of the temperature gauge.

If the car is overheating it could be on of the following

1. Failed or failing fan, which might not be rotating at the speeds it should

2. Blocked radiator or themostatic valve as pug306xsi suggested

Can you also please tell me if the car is a brand new import or was imported from the UK used?

These cars also have a habit of blowing head gaskets so you need to be very careful now. I suggest take it to a peugeot specialist.

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Hi

There was a issue in a fan fuse but it was resolved, however my garage specialis said there is leak in the gasket but not in the head gasket

This is a brand new imported

The middle mark is 90

Further fan remains on for a while, so my guess that fan works well what do you think?

Edited by Clivelloydrocks
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Hi There was a issue in a fan fuse but it was resolved, however my garage specialis said there is leak in the gasket but not in the head gasket This is a brand new imported The middle mark is 90

So 90-95 is within acceptable range for this car. Nothing to worry about there. If it was brand new imported, it should have the correct sized radiator which should keep the temperature in check.

In two cars in my family, over heating was caused by malfunctioning fans. Basically the fans worked but not at the correct rpm, and in one some of the fins were broken as well. So when there isn't an obvious cause, thats a good place to start. Also check if the fans come in on time. Even when running idle you will notice the fans come in a little after your engine hits the normal running temperature in SL.

If the fans don't come on, on time, the issue is probably a faulty thermostatic switch, or faulty relay.

If the overheating happens while running, the issue is most of the time faulty fans, or blocked radiator or water line.

Is the car losing any coolant?

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No not loosing any coolent,how to check fans are starting while driving

Check the fans while stationary.

I'm not 100% sure about the circuit but in most cars they operate on a fail safe system. So if you disconnect the thermostatic switch the fans will start straight away. Turning the AC on will also start both fans so you can check if they are rotating properly and in the correct direction. But to check the thermostatic switch you have to leave the car on idle and wait for the car to get up to temperature and start the fans.

The assumption here is that if the fans come on fine and work fine when stationary they will do so while driving too. Fans are designed to draw air from outside so they are blowing or sucking towards the engine, not away. This is so that it is fresh air being used to cool the radiators.

I forgot to mention, a faulty water pump can also trigger overheating. This has to be checked by a mechanic.

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Thank you The temperature goes down when I'm driving fast in clear roads

Thats because you have ambient air going through the radiators. That doesn't prove anything, maybe that the radiator is fine (but even that can't say 100%). Check the fans and the thermostatic switch first.

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Hello Team

Suba aluth awruddak Wewa.....!!!!!!!!

I have seen Don was helping on this issue and covered most of the areas, but let me add something, i had the same issue with a RAV4 which is on sale now after fixing the issue. and issue is same below is what i have done as DIY

Change the temp switch (2 switches on RAV4) 1 to kick the fans and 1 to get the temp to the ECU

- Clean the radiator with a flush and refill the coolant

- fan's kicks in at the correct temp

- Change the thermostat

On flat roads or highway at 100km/h no problem but in the city traffic gauge climbs, i have done a compression test if any head gasket leaks but no sign of any so this is 1 mysterious issue

at last i found a guy and sorted my issue, so issue he found fan should run at 2 speeds low and HI, for some reason HI Speed signal is issue with the ECU so he fixed the ECU and sorted the issue for $150 at the end.

This is just a FYI and best to test with electronic guru about the fan speeds

regards

JC

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Next time you take the car and drive for a while, Open the hood and carefully just check all parts of the radiator is hot? If a core or a couple of cores are cold it means the radiator is blocked. Please take caution doing this.

Once mine was overheating due to a faulty radiator/expansion pressure cap. Could be simple as that. ( But since you don't have any loss of coolent not sure this applies to you).

Edited by pug306xsi
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Thank you very much any idea how much it will cost the fan and thermostatic switch

Don't think you have to worry too much about costs of themorstatic switches etc yet. To be frank the themostatic switch is probably not going to be that expensive, even a genuine replacement, which I suggest you use.

The fan will be a bit more interesting. If it is a single speed fan, you might even be able to find another fan motor locally and swap, as long as it runs at the same or similar rpm. The other option would be a used replacement, or failing which a new item. They don't tend to be that expensive either.

Dual speed fans on the other hand are a bit more expensive.

John Cooper raises an interesting point. The circuit I've described is the older static fan control circuit which uses relays and a thermostatic switch. It is possible your fan is ECU controlled, so you will still have a couple of relays, but the trigger will come from the ECU based on the input from the thermo sensor to the ECU. Based on your temperature gauge readings your temp sensor is probably ok.

You can figure out if your fan is dual speed by counting the number of wires going in. Single fans normally only only have 2 wires going into them, but dual speed fans will have more (3 or 4).

But before going to these extents, just do the simple tests first.

Make sure the fans come in on time while idle

They rotate properly without obstruction or noise

They blow enough air and in the right direction

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307 has a dual speed fan.

I wonder if the high speed isn't being activated then.

You kind of need to check the service manual at this point to check how to test the fans. They normally always give parameters, like at what temp speed 1 will be activated and at what temp speed 2 will be activated, general circuitry and test method.

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From OP's explanation (temperature coming back to normal when driving fast), it does sound like the fans are not doing their job properly.

Usually, dual speed fans have a fan control module (especially when there are multiple fans). The module controls the fans simultaneously at low or high speeds. In this case, the fan motors will still have only two wires going into them. So it might be an issue with this control module as well, because the speed control module is what detects the temperature and engages the fans.

If the fan motors only have two wires, you can directly hook them up to the battery and check if it works. It should basically spin really fast. If you decide to check this yourself, be careful not to get in the way of the blades.

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Peugeot 307 has an inherited heating issue, specially in our kind of driving and climate conditions. Almost all of the 307s I've seen and experienced had temp gauge hovering between 90 to 100 and if it doesn't go beyond 100, they consider it to be "normal" !

having said that, your issue of temp gauge going beyond 100 after the car is stopped is anyway happens as there's no water flow and water trapped in the area of temperature sender (one of two sensors in some models, i think the blue color one or in some models it's just one green color sensor) gets heated. However, the moment you start the car, it'll drop a little and fans should kick in at high speed. Reason is water trapped in radiator core gets a bit cooler and they gets into the water circulation means overall temperature will drop.

few points to note

1. Does your fan keep running even after you switch off the engine? if yes, it's an indication of some abnormal condition and therefore ECU / Fan control module decides to keep the fans switched on for 5 more minutes or so.

2. To test the fans and high speed, start the engine, preferably from a cold start and keep the cap of the expansion chamber (water bottle like thing in 307) open and fill with coolant up to the mark. then let the engine get heated up till 90+ and make a note at which point the fan kicks in. Coolant level will rise and start overflow just before fan kicks in. As the fan operates, the coolant level drops. let it run for a while and again fan will stop. Again coolant level will rise and start overflowing before the fan kicks in and will drop when the fan operates. refill up to the mark and close the cap. When closing the cap, tighten it to the max and then turn 1/4 circle towards loosening side and leave.

Tell us your observation in this.

2.1 at which point the fan kicks in (reading on the temp gauge, make sure to get the reading while you're on driving seat, if you look at it from outside, you won't get the correct reading (good if you can hook her up with Peugeot Planet to get the most accurate reading). If it starts at 92 (slightly passing 90 mark) means your temp sender and fan control module aren't faulty. However, let us know.

2.2. do you see water boiling and splashing up before the fan kicks in ? or just smoothly overflowing and gradually goes down as fan starts operating ?

if it's boiling and splashing up, before the fan kicks in isn't a good sign. may be there's a clog in your water channels including radiator, blocked thermostat or blown head gasket to be the worst.

to test the fan high speed, when the car is started, remove the green color temp socket. Fan should kick in at highest speed and warning should come engine temperature too high. If it operates in normal speed, either the high speed relay or fan resistance (fan speed control mechanism in 307) is faulty.

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Hi Harshan and other Peugeot Fans,

I am not much familiar with Peugeot 307. I am asking this just for the information. When in the morning(That means engine is at cold state), if we start the car and put the AC on, for the correct operation is it expected the fans to be kick in or not? Does 307 have 2 fans? When AC on how the fans operate? As a Peugeot fan I just want to know some information...... :music-smiley-010:

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Hi Harshan and other Peugeot Fans,

I am not much familiar with Peugeot 307. I am asking this just for the information. When in the morning(That means engine is at cold state), if we start the car and put the AC on, for the correct operation is it expected the fans to be kick in or not? Does 307 have 2 fans? When AC on how the fans operate? As a Peugeot fan I just want to know some information...... :music-smiley-010:

regardless of the coolant temperature, fan would kick in the moment you switch on A/C and then will increase speed as temperature and pressure of refrigerant.

307 has single auxiliary fan. Hope this helped

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Thanks Harshan for your explanation....:). From Harshan's comment, what I can suggest "Clivelloydrocks" is to first check in the morning to put AC on as soon as car starts and check whether the fan kicks in. If it is not kicked in, then that means the fan does not work as expected with "AC" on. Because with past experience with my vehicles, I personally aware that AC significantly impact engine temperature and cooling system as a whole should be able to handle and manage this....:) Hope this helps..... :music-smiley-010:

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Hi everybody

Thanks for the replies

Harsha a answers for your questions

Fan kick start in 92-93 more towards 92 however coolent didn't splashed out , but coolent splashed after stoping the engine. Coolent had a general boil didn't blast out.

Fan seems to be ok at all the speed seems to be high and fine (didn't check by removing the shocket)

Further can you please let me know do we have to keep the engine on after a drive in parking gear before we stop the engine.

Thanks once agin for the help

Edited by Clivelloydrocks
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