2017 Civic Air Conditioning

anushax · February 15, 2019

Hi Guys,

Need a little help here. I just imported 10th gen civic 1.0l hatchback, and it seems to be blowing hot air. No matter what setting I use, it continuously blowing hot air. Is there a setting I can turn it off, or can it be a mechanical problem?

Twin Turbo · February 15, 2019

HI,

is the A/C button on,..? is the compressor/cooling fans switching on ? air temp selector in cold (blue) re-circ m function - on.

IF Yes, you'll have to consult a specialist for a system checkup.

Cheers,

TT.

matroska · February 15, 2019

On 2/15/2019 at 10:19 AM, anushax said:

Hi Guys,

Need a little help here. I just imported 10th gen civic 1.0l hatchback, and it seems to be blowing hot air. No matter what setting I use, it continuously blowing hot air. Is there a setting I can turn it off, or can it be a mechanical problem?

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Ok that's weird - can you post a pic of the current setting/s you have might be able to help

ajm · February 15, 2019

maybe Gas leaked during shipping?

anushax · February 15, 2019

could be. I initially thought if it was a settings issue.

anushax · February 15, 2019

On 2/15/2019 at 10:40 AM, Twin Turbo said:

HI,

is the A/C button on,..? is the compressor/cooling fans switching on ? air temp selector in cold (blue) re-circ m function - on.

IF Yes, you'll have to consult a specialist for a system checkup.

Cheers,

TT.

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AC Buttons - On

Cooling Fans - On

Air temp selector is not blue, it's some what blue and red in the display. I'm not sure if that is correct.

PRAGIN · February 15, 2019

It seems settings are okay. Therefore it's best to get it checked out the gas level. But it can't be checked by local makabas because new R-1234yf A/C refrigerant is damn expensive. Even agents doesn't have that A/C refrigerant (I checked last month). So before you put it to any workshop please check with them whether they are capable of handling that type of gas used vehicles or not.

Twin Turbo · February 15, 2019

You got the heater slightly on

\Reduce the settings for temp on the two sides of the display currently at 23.5 TO THE LOWEST POSSIBLE.

anushax · February 16, 2019

On 2/15/2019 at 6:31 PM, Prangi said:

It seems settings are okay. Therefore it's best to get it checked out the gas level. But it can't be checked by local makabas because new R-1234yf A/C refrigerant is damn expensive. Even agents doesn't have that A/C refrigerant (I checked last month). So before you put it to any workshop please check with them whether they are capable of handling that type of gas used vehicles or not.

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Thanks for the help. Do you have any suggestion. Surely I don't wanna put these vehicles with local makabas

anushax · February 16, 2019

On 2/15/2019 at 9:29 PM, Twin Turbo said:

You got the heater slightly on

\Reduce the settings for temp on the two sides of the display currently at 23.5 TO THE LOWEST POSSIBLE.

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I tried that too. Put it to Lo position, but doesn't seem to work. At least heat is reduced. But no cold air.

Insedious · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 1:00 AM, anushax said:

I tried that too. Put it to Lo position, but doesn't seem to work. At least heat is reduced. But no cold air.

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Did this happen instantaneously? With refrigerant leaks, you would start noticing that the AC is cooling less and less till you don't get any cooling at all ( You might also smell the refrigerant/oil if the leak is on the evaporator) and the AC clutch is no longer engaging.

The reason for the question was, in similar situation (with a different) car, I found the compressor relay had died this happened while I was driving.

Our friendly AC repair guy initially check the coolant pressure and and then checked the voltage on the clutch leads and when the clutch engaged properly when given direct power, checked the harness (to see if any rat had a 3 course meal at the expense of the leads) and replaced the bad relay.

Just sharing the experience hoping it would help someone. Hopefully your situation is not this grave.

anushax · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 2:06 AM, Insedious said:

Did this happen instantaneously? With refrigerant leaks, you would start noticing that the AC is cooling less and less till you don't get any cooling at all ( You might also smell the refrigerant/oil if the leak is on the evaporator) and the AC clutch is no longer engaging.

The reason for the question was, in similar situation (with a different) car, I found the compressor relay had died this happened while I was driving.

Our friendly AC repair guy initially check the coolant pressure and and then checked the voltage on the clutch leads and when the clutch engaged properly when given direct power, checked the harness (to see if any rat had a 3 course meal at the expense of the leads) and replaced the bad relay.

Just sharing the experience hoping it would help someone. Hopefully your situation is not this grave.

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Actually I got this out of the port like this. I just got this thing cleared, and noticed AC is not blowing hot air. Initially I thought it's a settings issue. I didn't smell anything special at the time. Actually it pumps good enough air but the problem is Air is hot.

Insedious · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 2:14 AM, anushax said:

Actually I got this out of the port like this. I just got this thing cleared, and noticed AC is not blowing hot air. Initially I thought it's a settings issue. I didn't smell anything special at the time. Actually it pumps good enough air but the problem is Air is hot.

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Is the compressor clutch engaging when you switch on the AC? The compressor sits directly under the alternator.

anushax · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 2:18 AM, Insedious said:

Is the compressor clutch engaging when you switch on the AC? The compressor sits directly under the alternator.

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Yes Compressor is running. I can see the pulley is spinning.

Insedious · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 2:27 AM, anushax said:

Yes Compressor is running. I can see the pulley is spinning.

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The pully will always turn.. have a look below. This is how it looks when the clutch is engaged and not. Notice the outer nuts holding the clutch on the left, you will not see them when the compressor is on.

Edited February 16, 2019 by Insedious

anushax · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 3:15 AM, Insedious said:

The pully was always turn.. have a look below. This is how it looks when the clutch is engaged and not. Notice the outer nuts holding the clutch on the left, you will not see them when the compressor is on.

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Looks to me it. Thanks for guiding me in this. Clutch does not seems to be engaging.

kush · February 16, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 3:22 AM, anushax said:

Looks to me it. Thanks for guiding me in this. Clutch does not seems to be engaging.

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Check the fuse, relay and wiring

Insedious · February 18, 2019

On 2/16/2019 at 3:22 AM, anushax said:

Looks to me it. Thanks for guiding me in this. Clutch does not seems to be engaging.

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The issue might be electrical or due to low gas pressure. I think the easiest would be to get it check at a reputed AC repair place.

anushax · February 20, 2019

hello guys. Thanks for the help. I got it resolved but in the hard way. I'm posting it here so someone else would find it helpful.

Actually I went to sta**rd, and they said, there was no gas. Since they does not have R1234-yf gas with them, I went to media*a*r at peliyagoda. They checked the system and said, condenser has leaks and need to be replaced. condenser itself costs around 55k. what they have is Thailand made condenser and there seems to be no other option as agents does not have any of it. Also gas is not cheap either. They quote 65k. Also they said even some other brandnew(since mine is recon from UK) civics came with the same issue, and it seems to be a factory fault/ o(or climate issue). There were no signs of crash or any sort of thing, but condenser had leaks somehow.

ajm · February 20, 2019

if its a problem before/during shipping, ask the car-sales bugger who sold you to pay for it.

Maybe the gas has to be removed during shipping, since it seems to be flammable compared to R134a.

PRAGIN · February 20, 2019

On 2/20/2019 at 1:26 PM, anushax said:

Also they said even some other brandnew(since mine is recon from UK) civics came with the same issue, and it seems to be a factory fault/ o(or climate issue). There were no signs of crash or any sort of thing, but condenser had leaks somehow.

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The information you got from them is correct. One of my friend's vehicle had the same issue and fortunately condenser leak was in visible area. Since it was only 2000km done vehicle the technician has recommended to repair it and use. After the repairs he's using the vehicle now for 7 months. Why don't you talk to the car sale guy/exporter and explain this?

anushax · February 20, 2019

On 2/20/2019 at 2:24 PM, Prangi said:

The information you got from them is correct. One of my friend's vehicle had the same issue and fortunately condenser leak was in visible area. Since it was only 2000km done vehicle the technician has recommended to repair it and use. After the repairs he's using the vehicle now for 7 months. Why don't you talk to the car sale guy/exporter and explain this?

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Unfortunately, my condenser is leaking from everywhere. Already working with the exporter. Just shared the experience, and I find it's similar from 2016 civics as well. some other online forums has similar issue reported.

Hyaenidae · February 20, 2019

On 2/20/2019 at 2:24 PM, Prangi said:

The information you got from them is correct. One of my friend's vehicle had the same issue and fortunately condenser leak was in visible area.

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3

If the condenser is prone to leaks it would be better to replace the entire thing with a new one since the new R1234yf gas is crazy expensive, According to the famous YouTube DIY mechanic Scotty Kilmer a 30lbs canister of R134a gas costs $90 and this new gas costs $1000 per 10lbs canister, that's $3000 for 30lbs!

kush · February 21, 2019

On 2/20/2019 at 2:48 PM, Hyaenidae said:

If the condenser is prone to leaks it would be better to replace the entire thing with a new one since the new R1234yf gas is crazy expensive, According to the famous YouTube DIY mechanic Scotty Kilmer a 30lbs canister of R134a gas costs $90 and this new gas costs $1000 per 10lbs canister, that's $3000 for 30lbs!

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This is case when ever they come up with new gas i remember this was a issue when R134a came, it was crazy expensive compared to R12. But eventually prices will come down. Unfortunate these issues are cropping up early in life.

This is why it is always advisable to go with tested technology or at least have the peace of mind with a proper agent warranty which you could fallback on.

Just check on whether there were any recalls for this issue, even if your vehicle is not agent imported they may be able to help as they had to with the Vezel transmission issues.