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Transmission Fluid


Sumzy

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Niranjan, you have been very specific in defining your requirement in exact words just like a good commercial lawyer would do in drafting an agreement. Being so specific on your terms of reference, what is the guarantee that you get genuine Matic -J ATF if you were to buy it from a place other than A*W?

If I were you I would have listened to The Don's advice, unless of course you are looking for ATF for a mission critical application.

Edited by Rumesh88
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Niranjan de Silva,

Friend of mine got this oil from Singapore, shipped through air cargo. I checked from him he informd the cost only today.

According to him it cost him under Rs. 8000.00. For 3 cans.

Air freight cost was high more than the oil. Delivery to home duty paid by UPS.

He emailed this link to me to try.

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-999MP-MTJ00P-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B00AKYOTQC

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

Mr. Sylvi Wijesinghe, I don't think that is a viable option since amazon do not ship this particular product to Sri Lanka.

Also,

Niranjan, you have been very specific in defining your requirement in exact words just like a good commercial lawyer would do in drafting an agreement. Being so specific on your terms of reference, what is the guarantee that you get genuine Matic -J ATF if you were to buy it from a place other than A*W?

If I were you I would have listened to The Don's advice, unless of course you are looking for ATF for a mission critical application.

Well Rumesh88, I hope you do not know me. Still your point is completely valid. If you refer my initial post I stated that the only place I found Matic-J in Colombo (after a quick search) was at A*W. Still there is another place in Kurunegala which sells matic-J, but in measured quantitites as they import in bulk. I did not want to take the risk of buying ATF "loose" so to speak. I will go to some of the places suggested to me as selling matic-J, and will revert back. Still if the cans containing the ATF is sealed and if there is nothing fishy or out of the ordinary then I guess the decision of buying it from A*W or another party will depend solely on the reduction of the price, if any.

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Please sorry for disturb but I have a question relating to this. My car manual says use something equivalent to Dextran III I changed all the fluids of my car (except steering) when I bought it. At that time I had to use C*ltex Tex*matic DIII ( Which was the one previous owner had used ). Now I'm near next ATF change. Please tell me any bad reviews or reliability issues for this brand or shall I move to Mob*l as you all suggested?

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Please sorry for disturb but I have a question relating to this. My car manual says use something equivalent to Dextran III I changed all the fluids of my car (except steering) when I bought it. At that time I had to use C*ltex Tex*matic DIII ( Which was the one previous owner had used ). Now I'm near next ATF change. Please tell me any bad reviews or reliability issues for this brand or shall I move to Mob*l as you all suggested?

Go with Mobil or Castrol.

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Interesting developments in the 'mazda' transmission fluid thread :)

So I think ATF-M-V will not always suit your gear box, you need to check the type of gear box whether it's CVT or other and based on that select the gear oil, and I feel Mazna motors is the safest choice since the guy knows about it

Let me know your view/opinion guys

The reason for you not finding mazda cvt oil at the agents is possibly because the number of cvt boxes in mazda is still very low in SL. Certainly none of the 3 or 6 models imported by these dealers hv the cvt box (not sure) and all older 2004-2009 models (3/Axela, 6/Atenza, RX-8) are either EC-AT or MT.

Lalith is probably the most knowledgeable person on this, so it's no surprise he has the cvt oil in stock. My only wish is that he's more reasonable in his prices - but you can't beat him for parts availability or know-how.

And I saw someone mention above that they don't trust the wholesale (i.e. barrel) imported fluids. Well, in that case most of the Mazda's in Colombo are f**ked because majority of M-V (@ either car mart ratmalana, colonial battaramulla or mazna pepliyana) are dispensed off barrels. I call a load of bollocks ;)

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Go with Mobil or Castrol.

Thanks VVTI. Another thing, there are two types advertised in SL mobil agent's site Mobil 1 and just ATF. What do you recommend ? I mean when it comes to Engine lubes they say though you are running less still have to change in 6 month as fully synthetics will start chemical break down with time. Is that rule still applies here?

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Thanks VVTI. Another thing, there are two types advertised in SL mobil agent's site Mobil 1 and just ATF. What do you recommend ? I mean when it comes to Engine lubes they say though you are running less still have to change in 6 month as fully synthetics will start chemical break down with time. Is that rule still applies here?

VVTI reccommended brands Charith, you still need to get the type and grade your manufacturer recommends which is Dextron III

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VVTI reccommended brands Charith, you still need to get the type and grade your manufacturer recommends which is Dextron III

Don't get m wrong here but I wanna know your opinion on synthetic over normal ATF (both of above types have Dextron III). Is there any chemical degradation time for Synthetic ATF as you adviced me for Synthetic Engine oil?

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The reason is personal experience. The passo that my father is using had Toyota branded ATF. When the recent ATF change became due I could not put a lot of attention to the service (due to a personal difficulty) and put Mobil as the ATF (this was the ATF available at Automira*). The drop in performance was instantly felt by me and drastically declined from there on in. In particular gear shifting, the gear lever getting stuck between two gears and the general performance. As for the notion that nissan does not manufacture ATF in house and has the production of ATF outsourced to one of the major producers of ATF is not supported by any independent evidence. Please submit to me any information you have as if that is the case I would like to revisit my conclusion.

Just saw this stupid response. I cant believe people r still being nice to this frickkin retard!

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Just saw this stupid response. I cant believe people r still being nice to this frickkin retard!

Well first of all I do not have a frustrated life like the one you seem to be enjoying to call people names. The thread has proceeded to a number of further posts where I have made further replying postsplease refer. If you have something to say based on knowledge, personal experience etc. I will be more than happy to listen and would even consider changing my decisions based on such rather than listening to a childish rant beneficial to none.

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Well first of all I do not have a frustrated life like the one you seem to be enjoying to call people names. The thread has proceeded to a number of further posts where I have made further replying postsplease refer. If you have something to say based on knowledge, personal experience etc. I will be more than happy to listen and would even consider changing my decisions based on such rather than listening to a childish rant beneficial to none.

You are not a king or some kind of a higher being for others to "submit any information" so that you can "revisit your conclusion".

Nobody in this forum takes experienced members as some kind of subordinates.

I enjoy calling names to lowlifes like u. Just go f##k yourself.

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As long as the oil is from a reputed company (caltex/mobil/castrol/Toyota..etc) ,meets the required grades according to the car manufactures and changed at correct interval; there should not be significant difference!

I personally use Mobil for autobox (20000km) and caltex DS for engine (2500km) for my Diesel 2C

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You are not a king or some kind of a higher being for others to "submit any information" so that you can "revisit your conclusion".

Nobody in this forum takes experienced members as some kind of subordinates.

I enjoy calling names to lowlifes like u. Just go f##k yourself.

Well you forgot to quote the "please" before submit any information. I have not treated an experienced member as a subordinate which is more than clear from his replies and subsequent conduct. Please don't get worked up for others. As for my choice of words put it down to better education of which I verily believe you have none.

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="nano31" data-cid="253615" data-time="1388333846"><p>

As long as the oil is from a reputed company (caltex/mobil/castrol/Toyota..etc) ,meets the required grades according to the car manufactures and changed at correct interval; there should not be significant difference!<br />

I personally use Mobil for autobox (20000km) and caltex DS for engine (2500km) for my Diesel 2C</p></blockquote>

Caltex doesnt come under REPUTED in my book.

Simply use

Mobil, Castrol, Shell, BP or the manufacturer's product.

And just follow the manufacturer recommended oil grade and drain intervals.

Synthetic ATF is NOT decompose or break down in 6 moths or so as in Engine oils.

Using monograde DS40 or so Called barreled crap and change engine oil is in 2500km intrrval is a retarded advice from local MakaBaasas which i also have heard several times.their assumption is new oil does good.

The reson behind the multigrade oil is.

When you start the engine at early morning, technically there is no actual oil flow beacuse the high viscosity of fluid at lower temperature. So in a regular car moere than 75% of engine wear occurs at this so called cold starts to few munites.

When oil heats up.the viscosity falls and starts the proper flow between oil channels.

Multigrade oils somehow manage to maintain the flow at your cold starts beacuse their bi-phasic viscosity. They have measured the viscocity at zero celcius as a standerd and represent as w value. Ex 15w40. So it protects your engine until oil temperature rises from, will say 18 celcius at early morning to 85-100 desirable temperature.but your monograde have none of this.it eat up the metal surfaces until oil reaches desired temperature. And this is the reason why some modern european diesels(passat,jetta,golf) have oil heater fitted to oil pan to heat up the oil faster in a cold start.probably to save few seconds but it saves few years of engine life.

The explanation is OT but couldnt stand silent when somebody advice to pour monograde oil to engine.

Edited by chan5
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Multigrade oils somehow manage to maintain the flow at your cold starts beacuse their bi-phasic viscosity. They have measured the viscocity at zero celcius as a standerd and represent as w value. Ex 15w40. So it protects your engine until oil temperature rises from, will say 18 celcius at early morning to 85-100 desirable temperature.but your monograde have none of this.it eat up the metal surfaces until oil reaches desired temperature. And this is the reason why some modern european diesels(passat,jetta,golf) have oil heater fitted to oil pan to heat up the oil faster in a cold start.probably to save few seconds but it saves few years of engine life.

The explanation is OT but couldnt stand silent when somebody advice to pour monograde oil to engine.

The explanation is from a typical 'pothe gura'.

Exactly which part of Sri Lanka are you from? Unless you are in Nuwara Eliya or somewhere, the early morning temperature will be at least 25 degrees even in December.

For the Sri Lankan climate, monograde oil is just fine.

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Don't get m wrong here but I wanna know your opinion on synthetic over normal ATF (both of above types have Dextron III). Is there any chemical degradation time for Synthetic ATF as you adviced me for Synthetic Engine oil?

Machang.... I just get the oil Mobil/Castrol, depending on my mood, pop the ATF drain nut (Subies are cool like that), drain all fluid. Close. Pop the new oil in, check the levels, top up if needed and get on with my life. I try not to stay up wondering about degradation and synthetic and what not... 20000 Kms later, I repeat above process. :)

Life is too short to worry about ATF... :)

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Don't get m wrong here but I wanna know your opinion on synthetic over normal ATF (both of above types have Dextron III). Is there any chemical degradation time for Synthetic ATF as you adviced me for Synthetic Engine oil?

All fluids undergo chemical breakdown. They aren't perfectly stable chemicals so will react overtime and form other substances. This is why for all fluids including hydraulics its advisable to change them based on mileage as well as age.

In terms of ATF fluid, the advice on engine oil does not quite apply, nor has there been any evidence to that. The gearbox is rather sensitive to the properties of the ATF fluid used so always use the correct grade in the correct quantity and change the filter when you do an ATF change. I'm not sure if there are 100% mineral ATF fluid, but stick to either manufacturer branded fluid or a very reputed brand.

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All fluids undergo chemical breakdown. They aren't perfectly stable chemicals so will react overtime and form other substances. This is why for all fluids including hydraulics its advisable to change them based on mileage as well as age.

In terms of ATF fluid, the advice on engine oil does not quite apply, nor has there been any evidence to that. The gearbox is rather sensitive to the properties of the ATF fluid used so always use the correct grade in the correct quantity and change the filter when you do an ATF change. I'm not sure if there are 100% mineral ATF fluid, but stick to either manufacturer branded fluid or a very reputed brand.

Machang.... I just get the oil Mobil/Castrol, depending on my mood, pop the ATF drain nut (Subies are cool like that), drain all fluid. Close. Pop the new oil in, check the levels, top up if needed and get on with my life. I try not to stay up wondering about degradation and synthetic and what not... 20000 Kms later, I repeat above process. :)

Life is too short to worry about ATF... :)

:) Thanks

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Crosswind" data-cid="253643" data-time="1388390181"><p>

<br />

<br />

<br />

The explanation is from a typical 'pothe gura'.<br />

Exactly which part of Sri Lanka are you from? Unless you are in Nuwara Eliya or somewhere, the early morning temperature will be at least 25 degrees even in December.<br />

For the Sri Lankan climate, monograde oil is just fine.</p></blockquote>

For your infornation "PRACTCAL MAN."

Just buy a cheapest thermo and measure it.

Im at Hambantota city now At 11.30 pm and temperature here is 20.4C.

You can atleast google for estimated values.

Just jabbering without proper base mislead people.....

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