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Help With My New Cs3


carson

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I highly doubt that you'd be able to find it in regular spare parts places. Check with Samarasinghe Windscreen house panchi..

My thoughts exactly. Mahinda might have though. But I'm not sure if he'll agree to just give away the small glass, unless one of the doors he's got can only be used for parts.

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can i have the number to check?

I'll reply to that quoting a post from trinity to guess who...? You!

Would you please search the bloody forum

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys . i recently purchased a Lancer CS3 . Ive had one of those cheap ebay elm scanner for some time and figured out that they only work mostly on EOBD protocols . reading through this post i understood that Mitsubishi uses some other Protocol which isnt available in EOBD and that a software called Evoscan could be used for communicating with the ecu , but unfortunately this software works with some other device called openport which is rather expensive compared to an ELM scanner .

So has anyone been successful in finding a cheap alternative for communicating with mitsubishi ecus ?

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Hi guys . i recently purchased a Lancer CS3 . Ive had one of those cheap ebay elm scanner for some time and figured out that they only work mostly on EOBD protocols . reading through this post i understood that Mitsubishi uses some other Protocol which isnt available in EOBD and that a software called Evoscan could be used for communicating with the ecu , but unfortunately this software works with some other device called openport which is rather expensive compared to an ELM scanner .

So has anyone been successful in finding a cheap alternative for communicating with mitsubishi ecus ?

Ah Dushiya, so you sold the mini? Congrats on the purchase!

The protocol could be MUTII/MUTIII and yes, the scanners are somewhat expensive. I'm not sure whether there's a cheaper solution.

Japan implemented their OBD2 standard in 2003 as far as I can remember. What's the YOM?

Edited by maxxarox
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Yhea bn . sold it :P and bought the lancer YOM 2008 . It comes with a OBD port which its not EOBD but is JOBD which the cheap ebay scanners do not support . I think it has something to do with the protocol used by the obd software . tested on a 2003 mitsubishi and a 2008 mitsubishi . both had the same outcome where the software says that the Protocol could not be detected .

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/2/2016 at 9:28 AM, Dushyantha said:

Yhea bn . sold it :P and bought the lancer YOM 2008 . It comes with a OBD port which its not EOBD but is JOBD which the cheap ebay scanners do not support . I think it has something to do with the protocol used by the obd software . tested on a 2003 mitsubishi and a 2008 mitsubishi . both had the same outcome where the software says that the Protocol could not be detected .

 
 

Yeah I have tried to plug a HUD device that plugs into the OBD port, but it did not pick anything except getting power from the socket... 

Edited by HashanJay
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yes . eventually i discovered that although these have an obd port the communication protocol which is used by mitsubishis cannot be intergrated into cheap obd scanner circuits (something to do with the timing or frequency of the chips used in the scanners according to what i understood) .So using the MUT scanner which is there with the dealers is the only thing that can give heaps of data about the sensors and working of the ecu. 

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On 9/10/2016 at 3:34 PM, Dushyantha said:

yes . eventually i discovered that although these have an obd port the communication protocol which is used by mitsubishis cannot be intergrated into cheap obd scanner circuits (something to do with the timing or frequency of the chips used in the scanners according to what i understood) .So using the MUT scanner which is there with the dealers is the only thing that can give heaps of data about the sensors and working of the ecu. 

Hi, Can you check your ELM with below app ? In options, there a tick for JOBD, I lost my ELM sometime ago so couldn't check now. Please check and share the results :D So I can buy another ELM later

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugeLite&hl=en

Anybody has used this ?

http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-obdii-cables/details/13/1/performance-vehicle-pc-diagnostic-interfaces/openport-13d-usb-obdii/mutiii/ssmii-datalogging-cable


I saw in some places that only cars made before 2006 uses MUT protocol. So after 2006, is it using JOBD or MUT3?

Edited by nagaya
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  • 2 weeks later...

had to replace Ignition coil set (2) and plug oil seal and tapet cover seal. cost 18500/= from company.

they informed that one of my Ignition coil also damaged and better to replace. Ignition coil cost 20000/=

Any idea about the price in the local market and any recommended place?

How about import from ebay according to the part number?

Edited by vidura
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40 minutes ago, vidura said:

had to replace Ignition coil set (2) and plug oil seal and tapet cover seal. cost 18500/= from company.

they informed that one of my Ignition coil also damaged and better to replace. Ignition coil cost 20000/=

Any idea about the price in the local market and any recommended place?

How about import from ebay according to the part number?

Did you replace the ignition coil?  By damaged do u mean that the coil itself is damaged or is it the rubber part that goes inside the engine which is damaged?  

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2 hours ago, vidura said:

had to replace Ignition coil set (2) and plug oil seal and tapet cover seal. cost 18500/= from company.

they informed that one of my Ignition coil also damaged and better to replace. Ignition coil cost 20000/=

Any idea about the price in the local market and any recommended place?

How about import from ebay according to the part number?

So the oil seals alone cost 18.5K? That's insane! I remember @trinity replacing all spark plug oil seals in 2014 or so for a couple or hundred rupees.

20K seems about the right price at the agents, but you can buy brand new ones from eBay for about 8000 LKR (both). There are used ones for sale for cheap too, but for components like ignition coils, new is always better IMO. 

UM was advising me to replace the coils ever since the car hit 90,000km, but I never ran to issues with it. I believe it was replaced by our resident member @s.madura (who is the current owner of the car) recently. And this is after about 50,000 more KMs. Maybe he can share more info.

Having said that, the workshop manual says replace them at 100,000k Km if I remember correctly. 

Edited by Davy
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So the story is like this 

Yesterday i noticed that their is an small gap between ignition wire cap and the engine (like it is not sealed to the engine body). So i went to the company.

when they check their were some oil in the plug so they said plug oil seal is broken. Because of the oil leak ignition wires are damaged (idimila) and cant fix properly. So need to replace the plug oil seal. when replace oil seal need to replace tapet seal as well. Then I done both cost around 9000+(parts 5000+ and labor 3700+). after doing all still ignition wires cant fix because it is too big(idimila). So i finally decided to replace that 2 wires as well (cost 9000+).

So that is how total become 18500/=; I have feeling it is too much (may be i can save 5000+ if i do it outside) but I feel work and items are in good quality.

During the installation they told be right side ignition coil also damaged(rubber part is damaged). since their is no miss they told I can use to for some more days. Only coil cost is 20000/=.

 

So i thought to find  place to buy ignition coil in if i needed :)

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so you'r gonna replace the coil because the rubber part is degraded . i think this can be repaired easily with a new rubber part without replacing the whole coil. If the coil is malfunctioning then of course you would have to replace it . but if its only the rubber part , then finding an alternative first would be better

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3 minutes ago, Dushyantha said:

so you'r gonna replace the coil because the rubber part is degraded . i think this can be repaired easily with a new rubber part without replacing the whole coil. If the coil is malfunctioning then of course you would have to replace it . but if its only the rubber part , then finding an alternative first would be better

sounds cool.. I will find. Do you have any idea about this? Any place to repair the rubber. they told that rubber part come with the coil and need to replace whole thing.

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6 hours ago, vidura said:

 

sounds cool.. I will find. Do you have any idea about this? Any place to repair the rubber. they told that rubber part come with the coil and need to replace whole thing.

There were several types of ignition coils that came on the CS. Some were a single unit on which the rubber boot was permanently affixed to the coil whereas some had detachable rubber boots. Mine had permanently fixed boots so replacing the ignition coil was the only option. I wouldn't recommend repairing the ignition coil as it can lead to arching and then ignition misses etc.

However, if your coil is the type where the boot can be separated, you can buy a couple separately for about 3000 rupees. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-Repair-Kit-Rubber-Boots-Ignition-Coil-Mitsubishi-Lancer-4G18-/131955290912

Also, since two plugs share 1 coil, 2 out of the 4 plugs have ignition leads. If they're also swollen, you can buy them separately for cheap. Check link below: 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Galant-Lancer-Mirage-Outlander-Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-NGK-ME96-/320919605019?fits=Make%3AMitsubishi|Model%3ALancer&hash=item4ab84c8f1b:g:FUsAAOSwf-VWaI~r&vxp=mtr

Something that needs to be mentioned is that the coils don't need to be replaced just because the rubber is swollen ("idimila" as they say). Although the rubber boot doesn't go all the way in, there is no impact on the operation of the engine. Also, this swelling happens not because the rubber came into contact with oil, but because of the age and prolonged exposure to engine heat. I had the same issue and what I did was apply a small amount of rubber grease on the collar of the boot and use force to push it in. Never had an issue.

Edited by Davy
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4 hours ago, Davy said:

There were several types of ignition coils that came on the CS. Some were a single unit on which the rubber boot was permanently affixed to the coil whereas some had detachable rubber boots. Mine had permanently fixed boots so replacing the ignition coil was the only option. I wouldn't recommend repairing the ignition coil as it can lead to arching and then ignition misses etc.

However, if your coil is the type where the boot can be separated, you can buy a couple separately for about 3000 rupees. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-Repair-Kit-Rubber-Boots-Ignition-Coil-Mitsubishi-Lancer-4G18-/131955290912

Also, since two plugs share 1 coil, 2 out of the 4 plugs have ignition leads. If they're also swollen, you can buy them separately for cheap. Check link below: 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Galant-Lancer-Mirage-Outlander-Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-NGK-ME96-/320919605019?fits=Make%3AMitsubishi|Model%3ALancer&hash=item4ab84c8f1b:g:FUsAAOSwf-VWaI~r&vxp=mtr

Something that needs to be mentioned is that the coils don't need to be replaced just because the rubber is swollen ("idimila" as they say). Although the rubber boot doesn't go all the way in, there is no impact on the operation of the engine. Also, this swelling happens not because the rubber came into contact with oil, but because of the age and prolonged exposure to engine heat. I had the same issue and what I did was apply a small amount of rubber grease on the collar of the boot and use force to push it in. Never had an issue.

Tnx for the valuable information.

 

Seems i can save some money if i did it from outside. Nothing to do now. I will check whether i can fix the coil without replacing the whole thing.

Since i have no engine miss will i keep the coil as it is and replace when i get an issue in engine? Or you advice me to get it fix even their is no miss.

another thing i noticed is part of rubber part remain inside when he remove the ignition coil. They said it is because of damage rubber. So they cant take full this out. If needed they told that we have to open the tapet cover and remove the remaining rubber part and plug. So how many parts in ignition coil?

 

Any good Mitsubishi garage outside to do these things for reasonable price?

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