Honda Fit Hybrid 2013 (Gp1) Vs Honda Fit Hybrid Rs 2013 (Gp4)

[arun-online]

These days im planning to buy a Honda fit hybrid. Im considering YOM 2013 models of above cars.

GP1 comes with IMA 1.3 engine, 88Hp and GP4 comes with IMA 1.5 engine, 114Hp…

Personally I prefer GP4 because it has a sporty look and a powerful engine than GP1.

But I have no idea about fuel efficiency of this two models, Probably GP4 has the same engine on Honda insight ZE3. please share your ideas regarding this two models considering fuel economy and performance.

Thanks...

[Naweed]

Get the GP4. You'll love the ride and feel. That extra bit of power is worth it.

[arun-online]

what about fuel consumption....

[ramishkad]

If your budget can stretch to get a FIT RS, why dont you simply go for a GP5 which comes with a 1.5 engine as well? Newer hybrid tech and lithium ion hybrid batteries too if i'm not mistaken.

[Magnum]

If your budget can stretch to get a FIT RS, why dont you simply go for a GP5 which comes with a 1.5 engine as well? Newer hybrid tech and lithium ion hybrid batteries too if i'm not mistaken.

I was gonna suggest the same thing and GP5 has a huge leg room for a car of that size

[iRage]

If your budget can stretch to get a FIT RS, why dont you simply go for a GP5 which comes with a 1.5 engine as well? Newer hybrid tech and lithium ion hybrid batteries too if i'm not mistaken.

LOL...lets just presume he wants the stiffer sportier suspension with all-four disk brakes and maybe even a MT ?

[arun-online]

GP5 is a good option... bt my budget is maximum 3.0million. GP1 is ok for me. bt it is possible to import Fit RS with a lower auction grade, higher mileage or auction grade R within that price range.

[iRage]

I would not recommend you purchase an Auction Grade R car. R cars are usually cars hat have gone through repairs. Granted some repairs are minor. The issue is at auction unless you are physically there to check the car there is no way to figure out if the damage that was repaired was significant (and even if it has been properly fixed) or if the damage was minor and required very minimal fixing. So stay away from R. I would personally say stay away form anything lower than a 4...3.5 and lower grade cars can look pretty decent in pictures but in reality will look worry-some. That is why most of the reputed companies I know refuse to buy anything less than a 4.0 over here...

As for higher mileage cars....no comment....

Edited December 7, 2014 by iRage

[arun-online]

Most of Sri lankan car sales, they are selling auction grade R vehicles, some of them have repair shops in japan and they buy accident vehicles and do the repair works and send to Sri Lanka. Nobody knows the history of the vehicle and they are selling vehicle saying auction grade 4.5 or higher. When we importing personally selected vehicle from auction we cant expect brand new condition from a R vehicle but we can have it lower than market price (about 300,000 depending on vehicle).

What I meant by higher mileage is above 30,000kms and bt not higher than 50,000kms on ODO. normally vehicles will not give much trouble up to 100,000kms other than changing brake pads, tires etc (in my opinion and personal experience). even some cars with 4.5 auction grade goes considerably lower value if the millage is high.

in my idea its better to stay lower than market price, after 2 or 3 years when we selling it, loss from the vehicle may be minor. How ever luck plays a big role when buying R vehicle..

*Edited - Sri lankan

Edited December 7, 2014 by arun-online

[iRage]

Most of car sales, they are selling auction grade R vehicles, some of them have repair shops in japan and they buy accident vehicles and do the repair works and send to Sri Lanka. Nobody knows the history of the vehicle and they are selling vehicle saying auction grade 4.5 or higher. When we importing personally selected vehicle from auction we cant expect brand new condition from a R vehicle but we can have it lower than market price (about 300,000 depending on vehicle).

What I meant by higher mileage is above 30,000kms and bt not higher than 50,000kms on ODO. normally vehicles will not give much trouble up to 100,000kms other than changing brake pads, tires etc (in my opinion and personal experience). even some cars with 4.5 auction grade goes considerably lower value if the millage is high.

in my idea its better to stay lower than market price, after 2 or 3 years when we selling it, loss from the vehicle may be minor. How ever luck plays a big role when buying R vehicle..

the point my dear kid that you have missed is you will be taking a HUGE risk buying a R grade car in Japan. You have no way of checking it prior to purchase UNLESS you have someone there to go to the auction yard and inspect it (i.e you have no way of knowing the history). Then considering auctions are all over Japan you are going to have someone to run all over Japan checking R grade cars. In my experience if a R grade car is 300,000yen lesser than the average price you should stay the h#!! away from it.

[NeroX]

Agree with iRage. The whole auction business is quite messy. As you correctly said even graded vehicles could be R types which have been repaired an auction sheets forged. Unless you have someone there to personally to inspect the vehicle there's no way of knowing. A R grade is bound to be even worse. Remember that nowadays even condemned vehicles can be repaired to look good, but god knows how long they'd run.

A friend of mine thought the same as you & got down a R grade axio. Once he got it down, on his way back from Mattala the car indicators went crazy & he got a permanent ABS fault indication. He somehow got the vehicle out of E01 & put the car for inspection at toyota lanka. There he realized the vehicle had undergone far worse accident than indicated by the auction sheet. The auction sheet only showed one of the rear fenders being repaired, but the inspection showed that the opposite side front fender was also repaired & the ABS sensor wiring was messed up. It seemed the impact from behind made the car go hit from front as well. Luckily repairing the wiring sorted the issue, but he certainly lost the love for his car. The guy who imported refused to return the car as the Auction Report didn't mention any issue.

So unless you want to go through something like that, save up & buy a properly graded car. If budgets are tight, buying a well-maintained specimen locally with proper history will make much more sense financially.

[arun-online]

thanks iRage and NeroX, your comments are correct, i agree with you all. but my requirement is different,

One of my frnd who is involved in vehicle import, Import a Fit shuttle 2013 to my brother with highest grade, Pearl white, auction grade 5A, Milage 3500km two months ago. costs him more than 3.8 million, one of my another frnd is using a fit shuttle 2013 aution grade R which has costs him about 3.4 million. both of them are driving the same car. Bt my bro, who is bothered about a accident free vehicle, lower millage and full options lost Rs 0.4 million just before registration, don't know what will happen when he sell da car after 2 or 3 years.

Please note that i dont want you to buy auction grade R vehicles, its better to buy a highest grade cars. but at the moment i need a reliable hybrid car (to be used by my sister) thats why i strictly consider on price of the vehicle. however it is possible to test run the vehicle in japan just after releasing form the auction, frnd of mine in japan will do the job and repairs can be done too before shipping the vehicle. if the vehicle is in worst condition it can be re enter to the auction in japan too.

[NeroX]

Well if you're objective is to get a reliable hybrid car for dirt cheap, an R grade GP1 is the best choice. Make sure you get a high mileage one. It'll give you fuel economy a little better than a Maruti. With the money you save you could easily get a new paint job done if the panels don't match & even get a new battery if they've knocked that also. Good luck with your buy bro! Post some pics when you get down the machine (y) Cheers!!!

[iRage]

Again you are missing the point and being contradictory! You want the car to be reliable BUT u r willing to gamble and buy a R grade car (with only lord knows what damage) just to save 300k? I would say buy something like a brand nee Viva elite or its replacement model.I hear it is reliable and economical/frugal on gas and you will save quite a lot on the purchase price. Besides you should calculate the long term ownerdhip costs brtween a hybrid and a peradua. The hybrid might not be sensible, especially if u r considering a R grade car.

Your friend was lucky. For one the damage might have been small and no matter what properly fixed as well. When reselling ina few years time yhe next buyer might be weary if signs of the initial accident is there. So your brother might get a better price (but this is SL where a ... Is born rvery minute). Not all cases are like that of your friend. If u want to buy a R grafe vehicle u need a VERY good person at the other end to pick a proper R grade (repair history) car. An auction sheet (even the original) does not provide a comprehensive damage report (at times none what so ever and at times just what has NOT been fixed). Personally if you want to buy a car with a repair history buy a car off of a car sale where the car is being sold to be used in Japan. Because of the need for a shaken only properly fixed csrs are put bavk to yhe market (others auctioned off for export or scrapped for parts). Then those are not that much cheaper.

Edited December 7, 2014 by iRage

[NeroX]

Hey iRage! Let the kid buy his car men. Don't you know getting a car for cheap has bragging rights nowadays. He might get lucky & get away with a small defect, if not its a good learning. I'm sure his family could afford that 3M easily. Also since his sis is driving we can assume she won't drive fast. So even in an accident no metal bars can come up from messed up crumple zones firing that thing up or pile-driving the driver