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Which Car To Go For Within 5.5M


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I own a vezel. Well, i heard most of the people argument over vezel and have to say most of them are assumptions. Vezel is not a SUV. it is a crossover. But it "was" the very feasible solution for brand, price, comfort, MD, fuel consumption, design and quality. Well it will be not the best option with new tax reversion. But if you are deviating from Vezel to some other car first carefully analyze "what exactly your requirement". Then see the options. Just dont reply on what people say, search the internet (reputed sources) , drive your self some vehicles. take your own decision. :) . just any new car make your drive smooth. In that case my old swift beetle was very smooth in highway even 130-140 speed levels. look for all options before jump.

Thanks for the advice, I will have to test drive some cars before deciding as you said.

If you are buying a used BMW, try to buy a 2008+ 320D. It might be slightly over budget but have a look. I reccomend this over the E60, because the model is very popular, its the second edition of the E90 (face lift) so they have ironed out some of the issues in the original E90 and the N46 engine is a fairly solid engine (there were a couple of issues reported with timing chains etc but thankfully not very common).

It is important you get a car serviced at the agent or at one of the specialists. Poor maintenance is the single biggest issue with BMWs.

Super Diesel only, and the car will deliver excellent fuel economy (not that thats a reason to buy a BMW). Note expensive run flat tyres were standard and you didn't get a spare wheel. You can switch to normal tyres and keep a spare wheel, jack etc in the boot though.

Thanks for the update, I will look in to this.

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Supra_Natural" data-cid="271990" data-time="1423825473"><p>

<br />

You my friend, have absolutely no idea what you are on about.</p></blockquote>

Lol. Mazda 3, Accord n Camry in one group. Toyota n Honda might file a law suit ?

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You (the OP) mightget a bit more focused replies if you specify what you need. You went from Vezel, which is a mini/baby crossover (I say baby cross over as the traditional RAV4, X-Trail, etc..have taken the crossover route as well since recently); to a BMW 520D which is a sedan.

So..are you willing to settle for a SUV, Crossover (std and mini), Sedan or Hatchback as long as it is =<5.5 mil and YOM >= 2005/6 ??

Apart from what the others have said...if you are looking for a cross over; 2006 onwards RAV4s and CR-Vs go for around 4.8mil onwards (obviously things like lesser mileage, newer YOM adds to the price). Not sure about the X-Trail but I reckon that too would be around that price mark. Really not certain about the prices of Euro crossovers.

The whole mentality of Japanese cars being cheaper to maintain is just a state of mind that is re-enforced by the availability of cheap parts from China to Timbuktoo; which is not really "maintaining your car". As someone else mentioned good parts for Japanese cars too are as expensive.

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You (the OP) mightget a bit more focused replies if you specify what you need. You went from Vezel, which is a mini/baby crossover (I say baby cross over as the traditional RAV4, X-Trail, etc..have taken the crossover route as well since recently); to a BMW 520D which is a sedan.

So..are you willing to settle for a SUV, Crossover (std and mini), Sedan or Hatchback as long as it is =<5.5 mil and YOM >= 2005/6 ??

I was looking at the Vezel only because of its features and the fact that it was brand new. However, after reading some posts on AL I noticed that most older cars had these features and since Vezel was so common I decided on asking around to see what I could get for my budget. I dont think I can get a crossover or SUV with a YOM >= 2009 for my budget. Primarily looking for a newer vehicle, because I want to avoid many repairs. Therefore I dont mind going for a Sedan which is newer (YOM>=2009).

I looked around for a BMW 320D like @The Don suggested and I found some 2011 models ranging from 5.4M-6.1M. Is this price range okay for this car?

I guess I will go have a look at them. Besides the maintenance logs, is there anything specific I need to be looking at to ensure that they have been maintained properly?

What sort of depreciation am I looking at with the beemers in 3-5 years? Can it be resold easily?

I will test drive the Mazda 3 1.6L too, but with 105hp I dont think I can expect much out of it.

I am just looking at all my options in the Sedan market currently, so if you have any other cars in mind please list them as well.

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I don't know if you checked there are a few 2008 RAV4 on AL advertised for 4.4, Seen a few 2009 RAV4s and CR-Vs being asked for 5mil but I am sure the prices are negotiable. Seen CR-Vs around that mark too.

I guess Allions/Premios are out of the question since they are too run of the mill, seems like you need some exclusivity ? In which case that eliminates most of the Japanese cars

@tcfern1: test drove Vezels in Japan when it first came out. I liked it. It was well put together, had a nice feel to the interior (although my 3 yr old managed to break some flappy thing in the back of the rear console). The first one I drove felt sluggish and the dealer said the software had some issues and called me back o drive a different one. Didn't feel much of a difference. The complaint is that I felt it was a bit under powered going up hills (Nagasaki is full of HILLS), especially the gasoline version which just was out of breath. The Hybrid did a bit better but the Hybrid felt lazy off the mark (which the gasoline didn't...if that makes sense)

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Rs. 5.5 Mn. is decent amount of money to buy a brand new car from the agent or zero mileage Jap import, this will be the best.

You can run it for 3-5 years 40-60k without any issues, routine service apart.

Japanese cars give issues usually after 5-6 years and Euros / Koreans start early 3-4 years.

If you don’t believe me check on any of the company maintained cars and see how many things have been attended.

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I am in the market for a new vehicle and was looking at the Vezel (I know i know!)

However after giving it some thought, seeing how the hybrid tax has gone up and reading some advice on AL I thought I should ask for suggestions from the experts.

I saw someone list used BMWs as a better option than the Vezel and so I thought of giving it a go. My motive is to get a newer car so I face fewer repairs. I only sold my older car (Civic 2003) because I was tired of repairing it every 4-6 months.

I saw a couple of beemers advertised on AL. I saw some E60 520D 2006 facelift models which look nice, however a friend told me to steer clear of the diesel engines because they have a lot of maintenance involved and SL has poor quality diesel. Can someone shed some light on this? What sort of repairs can I expect from a 2006 model?

I also heard that servicing a beemer costs 35k+, but they have some long lasting oil so the service is done at a longer interval than regular car. Is there any truth to this?

I also want to know how the resale is like for beemers, because with any car you expect to resell it after sometime. How much could I sell this model for after about 3-5 years?

If you think I should go for another car (that is available for purchase on the AL site) for this budget please feel free to let me know.

I sold my car recently and I am stuck without a vehicle. I guess it was for the best, because if I had rushed I would have probably ended up with a Vezel.

Diesel engine parts are costly, yes. And it costs 35k per service from agents every 8000 km or 6 ,months. They use castrol which is quite good. If you have the bucks for maintaining, go for it. It will be super fun.

Edit: It will cost you 120k for a change of break pads which is about every 40000km and tires around 55k each if you want to use run flats. :) you'll need to change A/C filter, diesel particle filter etc every 2-3 services.

Edited by sasika
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Euro cars are not about being big and spacious. Its about clever use of space. The X1 has fairly decent space. The 3 series is not as spacious but its good enough. But you don't buy a BMW for any of those reasons. You buy one for the way they drive. You cannot explain it, you have to experience it. And you can check this, the BMW Diesels in particular do not have many problems at all. I have a number of friends who own 320Ds in SL and most have only had standard service and consumables like brake pads.

+1

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Sasika, Are you done with your vezel nonsense.

Talk about sh*t that you know. How come Diesel parts be more expensive compared to their petrol counterparts. I have been using diesel Euro vehicles for past 15 years from my experience both parts costs almost same in fact Euro diesels are cheaper to maintain,more reliable and fun to drive.

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I don't know if you checked there are a few 2008 RAV4 on AL advertised for 4.4, Seen a few 2009 RAV4s and CR-Vs being asked for 5mil but I am sure the prices are negotiable. Seen CR-Vs around that mark too.

I guess Allions/Premios are out of the question since they are too run of the mill, seems like you need some exclusivity ? In which case that eliminates most of the Japanese cars

@tcfern1: test drove Vezels in Japan when it first came out. I liked it. It was well put together, had a nice feel to the interior (although my 3 yr old managed to break some flappy thing in the back of the rear console). The first one I drove felt sluggish and the dealer said the software had some issues and called me back o drive a different one. Didn't feel much of a difference. The complaint is that I felt it was a bit under powered going up hills (Nagasaki is full of HILLS), especially the gasoline version which just was out of breath. The Hybrid did a bit better but the Hybrid felt lazy off the mark (which the gasoline didn't...if that makes sense)

i wonder why are you keep on promoting 5,6 years old RAVs and CRV's when they are not worthy considering ROI , the maintenance cost, old, cost for repairs, etc: , but 260 Aliion may sounds as good option.

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Diesel engine parts are costly, yes. And it costs 35k per service from agents every 8000 km or 6 ,months. They use castrol which is quite good. If you have the bucks for maintaining, go for it. It will be super fun.

Edit: It will cost you 120k for a change of break pads which is about every 40000km and tires around 55k each if you want to use run flats. :) you'll need to change A/C filter, diesel particle filter etc every 2-3 services.

The original brake pads for a E90 is about £220 for front and back. You don't need to change them every 40K as it depends on how you drive. There are just as good alternatives from brands like Pagid for hell of a lot less if you don't want originals. You do have to change discs after a while (you have to in Jap cars but nobody cares and ignores this) which is again about £200. These are things any mechanic can do but some will chose to get it done at the dealers. In the UK its £165 to change rears which include new wear sensor and labour and £195 to change front with the same.

A run flat tyre is about £100 a piece. There are multiple brands available. In SL you will have to add a premium because of duty but its not 55K. I believe they are like 30K a piece. Else you can opt for a tyre change kit (the older kit from the E46 works, you just need an extra spare) and go for normal but the E90 does not have a bay for the spare wheel so it takes up luggage space. The other option is to have a flat tyre repair kit.

And the Cabin filter is advised to be changed every service but the cost is neglibible.

The Diesel Particulate Filter, you might never have to change in your cars life time if its maintained properly. Diesel cars are not for people who do only short runs, and cars equiped with DPF (irrespective of Japanese or Euro) requires an "Italian tune up" once in a while.

Also generally speaking Diesel engines are hardier and develop less issues compared to petrol due to their simpler construction and the fact they live in the lower rpm range for most of their life. But they do tend to be run a lot more hence it might seem as if they need more maintenance. But maintenance is based on mileage not age.

Also before talking about servicing costs, check with Stafford their costs for a Vezel.

Please do not make misleading comments about things you obviously don't know about.

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i wonder why are you keep on promoting 5,6 years old RAVs and CRV's when they are not worthy considering ROI , the maintenance cost, old, cost for repairs, etc: , but 260 Aliion may sounds as good option.

The cost of ownership of a vehicle is directly relative to how the car has been maintained. It is my experience this matters more than age.

Everybody thinks newer cars will develop less problems. This is not true. My 1993 Mirage has far less issues than our 2005 Swift. The only difference is the Mirage is maintained by me, the Swift by my sister :)

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Sasika, Are you done with your vezel nonsense.

Talk about sh*t that you know. How come Diesel parts be more expensive compared to their petrol counterparts. I have been using diesel Euro vehicles for past 15 years from my experience both parts costs almost same in fact Euro diesels are cheaper to maintain,more reliable and fun to drive.

Err I have a diesel Beemer and I had a petrol merc. Shall I send you the Bills? Agreed on fun to drive part. But hey, go to a service station and ask. I was referring to regular servicing and not repairs or stuff like that. What the f**k is wrong with you people? Talking like s**t? Edited by sasika
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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="272516" data-time="1424365217"><p>Â <br />

The original brake pads for a E90 is about £220 for front and back. You don't need to change them every 40K as it depends on how you drive. There are just as good alternatives from brands like Pagid for hell of a lot less if you don't want originals. You do have to change discs after a while (you have to in Jap cars but nobody cares and ignores this) which is again about £200. These are things any mechanic can do but some will chose to get it done at the dealers. In the UK its £165 to change rears which include new wear sensor and labour and £195 to change front with the same.<br />

 <br />

A run flat tyre is about £100 a piece. There are multiple brands available. In SL you will have to add a premium because of duty but its not 55K. I believe they are like 30K a piece. Else you can opt for a tyre change kit (the older kit from the E46 works, you just need an extra spare) and go for normal but the E90 does not have a bay for the spare wheel so it takes up luggage space. The other option is to have a flat tyre repair kit.<br />

 <br />

And the Cabin filter is advised to be changed every service but the cost is neglibible.<br />

 <br />

The Diesel Particulate Filter, you might never have to change in your cars life time if its maintained properly. Diesel cars are not for people who do only short runs, and cars equiped with DPF (irrespective of Japanese or Euro) requires an "Italian tune up" once in a while.<br />

 <br />

Also generally speaking Diesel engines are hardier and develop less issues compared to petrol due to their simpler construction and the fact they live in the lower rpm range for most of their life. But they do tend to be run a lot more hence it might seem as if they need more maintenance. But maintenance is based on mileage not age.<br />

 <br />

Also before talking about servicing costs, check with Stafford their costs for a Vezel.<br />

 <br />

Please do not make misleading comments about things you obviously don't know about.</p></blockquote>1.pirelli cinturato 17" 94W cost 56500/= each. I bought four recently. Continental is even higher in places I checked.<br />

2. Diesel particulate filter needs changing (as dealers said) and I changed it.<br />

3. My break pads worn out in 44k<br />

In fact the wear sensor is programmed to 40k.

That's about the Beemer.

4vezel costs 11000 for a service (5000km) and if you want a 10000km oil in it, costs 18000 rupees<br />

I have commented about things I have first hand experience on. ok?

Edited by sasika
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i wonder why are you keep on promoting 5,6 years old RAVs and CRV's when they are not worthy considering ROI , the maintenance cost, old, cost for repairs, etc: , but 260 Aliion may sounds as good option.

I was not promoting them. I frst brought them up because the OP was not clear on what s/he wanted (crossover, SUV, sedan). I brought it up the second time because the OP was under the impression that newer ones were out of his budget range.

At the end of the day things like ROI and what is considered 'worth" are relative. For some people buying a brand new Vezel 4.5+ mil with X number of years use and the cost of replacements like the batteries, etc is worth it, for ME/US having the current RAV4 for 7 years at a total purchase cost of 5.7 mil with nothing but running and preemptive maintenance costs have been worth it (same goes for the past RAV4s and CR-Vs).

As for cost, apart from the lower KMPLs the rest I would say is no more nor no less than other cars. The last "full' service I did cost 6750/= for the RAV4.. In fact compared to my dad's colleagues' Allions/Premios and even the company Sunny and Demio; the CR-V and now RAV4 has had zero issues and taken a lot of abuse a lot better than the sedans that under go the same. Especially when it comes to suspension components and nasty dashboard rattles :sport-smiley-004: .

I get the feeling the OP wants something a little less mainstream than an Allion and something that has less of a "stigma'. (okay having a SUV/crossover too has its own stigma).

The bottom line is whether a car and its ROI is worth it or not can only be determined by the OP (or who ever is going to buy the car).

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Euro cars are not about being big and spacious. Its about clever use of space. The X1 has fairly decent space. The 3 series is not as spacious but its good enough. But you don't buy a BMW for any of those reasons. You buy one for the way they drive. You cannot explain it, you have to experience it. And you can check this, the BMW Diesels in particular do not have many problems at all. I have a number of friends who own 320Ds in SL and most have only had standard service and consumables like brake pads.

Couldn't agree more. It's so much fun

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Thanks for the update, I will keep this in mind.

Do you state this because of the maintenance involved?

Seems like they are priced pre-budget, however now they seem to be costing higher. Hybrids seem like a lost cause unless you go for a new vehicle no one has. This is because in 3-5 years time those who purchased hybrids pre-budgets will sell at the rate they bought for or slightly less and if someone purchased a hybrid after this budget then they will lose a lot of money on the resale.

Mazda 3 seems like a good car but the 1.6L is too under powered. I was driving a 115 hp car before and I am reluctant to move a 105 hp now.

This is one thing that I find interesting. I am not sure what it means but I guess I wont know if I dont drive one lol. Do you think the BMW model I listed is a reliable? Any friends who drive this particular model that can vouch for it?

I am worried because the YOM is 2006 and it is currently 8+ years for that car and it is a diesel. I just hope it doesnt give me that many repairs.

Do you have suggestions for any other BMW model within my budget that is highly reliable?

If you are ok with the service costs, then X1 is in your budget. It's like 5million now

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="272516" data-time="1424365217"><p>Â <br />

The original brake pads for a E90 is about £220 for front and back. You don't need to change them every 40K as it depends on how you drive. There are just as good alternatives from brands like Pagid for hell of a lot less if you don't want originals. You do have to change discs after a while (you have to in Jap cars but nobody cares and ignores this) which is again about £200. These are things any mechanic can do but some will chose to get it done at the dealers. In the UK its £165 to change rears which include new wear sensor and labour and £195 to change front with the same.<br />

 <br />

A run flat tyre is about £100 a piece. There are multiple brands available. In SL you will have to add a premium because of duty but its not 55K. I believe they are like 30K a piece. Else you can opt for a tyre change kit (the older kit from the E46 works, you just need an extra spare) and go for normal but the E90 does not have a bay for the spare wheel so it takes up luggage space. The other option is to have a flat tyre repair kit.<br />

 <br />

And the Cabin filter is advised to be changed every service but the cost is neglibible.<br />

 <br />

The Diesel Particulate Filter, you might never have to change in your cars life time if its maintained properly. Diesel cars are not for people who do only short runs, and cars equiped with DPF (irrespective of Japanese or Euro) requires an "Italian tune up" once in a while.<br />

 <br />

Also generally speaking Diesel engines are hardier and develop less issues compared to petrol due to their simpler construction and the fact they live in the lower rpm range for most of their life. But they do tend to be run a lot more hence it might seem as if they need more maintenance. But maintenance is based on mileage not age.<br />

 <br />

Also before talking about servicing costs, check with Stafford their costs for a Vezel.<br />

 <br />

Please do not make misleading comments about things you obviously don't know about.</p></blockquote>1.pirelli cinturato 17" 94W cost 56500/= each. I bought four recently. Continental is even higher in places I checked.<br />

2. Diesel particulate filter needs changing (as dealers said) and I changed it.<br />

3. My break pads worn out in 44k<br />

In fact the wear sensor is programmed to 40k.

That's about the Beemer.

4vezel costs 11000 for a service (5000km) and if you want a 10000km oil in it, costs 18000 rupees<br />

I have commented about things I have first hand experience on. ok?

Funny enough I have first hand experience as well. The wear sensor is not programmed for 40K. From about 2005 onwards BMWs have adaptive servicing, which means the computer uses an algorithm to predict when something needs to be replaced. For brakes its a combination of age, but also usage. So if you for example use your breaks a lot it will predict servicing is necessary quicker. The same thing with all aspects of the car. If you have the i drive system, you can go and see when it thinks the next services are due for various components. These change from time to time.

I'm sorry you had to spend so much on your run flats, and considering the retail price of those things, I think somebody is putting on a ridiculous mark up on the tyres. I use Pirelli PZero which are more expensive and they only cost me £108 installed per tyre (that is with wheel balancing and new valves). But as I've said a few times you do not have to use run flats. A lot of people change to normal tyres even over here, not because of cost, but because run flats are quite hard and when you switch to normal tyres you get a softer ride.

But things like break pads etc, anybody can change. You don't need the dealership. The only really costly repairs with those engines, and I'm talking post 2011 as some of the earlier N series diesels had an issue with timing chains is the turbo.

And you have to remember ultimately, there is no point trying to compare a BMW to a Honda. They are on two different classes.

And if you have first hand experience, how are you in your right mind going on about your experience with a Vezel? I mean seriously?

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Funny enough I have first hand experience as well. The wear sensor is not programmed for 40K. From about 2005 onwards BMWs have adaptive servicing, which means the computer uses an algorithm to predict when something needs to be replaced. For brakes its a combination of age, but also usage. So if you for example use your breaks a lot it will predict servicing is necessary quicker. The same thing with all aspects of the car. If you have the i drive system, you can go and see when it thinks the next services are due for various components. These change from time to time.

I'm sorry you had to spend so much on your run flats, and considering the retail price of those things, I think somebody is putting on a ridiculous mark up on the tyres. I use Pirelli PZero which are more expensive and they only cost me £108 installed per tyre (that is with wheel balancing and new valves). But as I've said a few times you do not have to use run flats. A lot of people change to normal tyres even over here, not because of cost, but because run flats are quite hard and when you switch to normal tyres you get a softer ride.

But things like break pads etc, anybody can change. You don't need the dealership. The only really costly repairs with those engines, and I'm talking post 2011 as some of the earlier N series diesels had an issue with timing chains is the turbo.

And you have to remember ultimately, there is no point trying to compare a BMW to a Honda. They are on two different classes.

And if you have first hand experience, how are you in your right mind going on about your experience with a Vezel? I mean seriously?

Yeah I was foolish to go for the run flats. But the normal ones were like40k each. So decided to go for RFTs. Bought from Toyota lan*a. Mm I mentioned 40k cz that was what showed on the system when I installed it. And I don't think a honda can be compared to a Beemer. I was putting it up In the normal Japanese car mindset. Nothing Japanese I've driven could give the same fun as the BMW. Luckily my engine didn't cause any trouble at all yet :) I looked in eBay too for tires and break pads but I don't have a way to get them to here without being taxed. Please let me know if you know a place to buy Tires cheaper here in SL. Ah TL told me that they can give the Chinese made Pirelli for 45 or so. One I've got is the softer EU made one (Romenia I guess).

post-69183-0-27163300-1424448506_thumb.j

Edited by sasika
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As Crosswind has pointed out in another post, premium brands when it comes to tyres does not equal premium value. This was proven in a 5th gear test as well. Funny enough there are Chinese brands who make perfectly good Run flats. The problem is they currently come as standard only on BMWs and Mercedes of late. So the market is small and the importers are charging a premium.

A friend mentioned a figure close to 30K for run flats for his E90, though he had got his quote by searching around, not through TL.

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="272622" data-time="1424448573"><p>

As Crosswind has pointed out in another post, premium brands when it comes to tyres does not equal premium value. This was proven in a 5th gear test as well. Funny enough there are Chinese brands who make perfectly good Run flats. The problem is they currently come as standard only on BMWs and Mercedes of late. So the market is small and the importers are charging a premium.<br />

<br />

A friend mentioned a figure close to 30K for run flats for his E90, though he had got his quote by searching around, not through TL.</p></blockquote>

Yeah. Even the non RFTs of Bridgestone has high price. And couldn't find those 225/50 R17 in many places. Said Japanese vehicles don't come in that size. I don't know about that

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The cost of ownership of a vehicle is directly relative to how the car has been maintained. It is my experience this matters more than age.

Everybody thinks newer cars will develop less problems. This is not true. My 1993 Mirage has far less issues than our 2005 Swift. The only difference is the Mirage is maintained by me, the Swift by my sister :)

Yup, that sound sensible.. but we cant neglect that older cars might have high probability to to cause issues. we cant exactly assume how good original owners maintained the car ;)

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="The Don" data-cid="272516" data-time="1424365217"><p>Â <br />

The original brake pads for a E90 is about £220 for front and back. You don't need to change them every 40K as it depends on how you drive. There are just as good alternatives from brands like Pagid for hell of a lot less if you don't want originals. You do have to change discs after a while (you have to in Jap cars but nobody cares and ignores this) which is again about £200. These are things any mechanic can do but some will chose to get it done at the dealers. In the UK its £165 to change rears which include new wear sensor and labour and £195 to change front with the same.<br />

 <br />

A run flat tyre is about £100 a piece. There are multiple brands available. In SL you will have to add a premium because of duty but its not 55K. I believe they are like 30K a piece. Else you can opt for a tyre change kit (the older kit from the E46 works, you just need an extra spare) and go for normal but the E90 does not have a bay for the spare wheel so it takes up luggage space. The other option is to have a flat tyre repair kit.<br />

 <br />

And the Cabin filter is advised to be changed every service but the cost is neglibible.<br />

 <br />

The Diesel Particulate Filter, you might never have to change in your cars life time if its maintained properly. Diesel cars are not for people who do only short runs, and cars equiped with DPF (irrespective of Japanese or Euro) requires an "Italian tune up" once in a while.<br />

 <br />

Also generally speaking Diesel engines are hardier and develop less issues compared to petrol due to their simpler construction and the fact they live in the lower rpm range for most of their life. But they do tend to be run a lot more hence it might seem as if they need more maintenance. But maintenance is based on mileage not age.<br />

 <br />

Also before talking about servicing costs, check with Stafford their costs for a Vezel.<br />

 <br />

Please do not make misleading comments about things you obviously don't know about.</p></blockquote>1.pirelli cinturato 17" 94W cost 56500/= each. I bought four recently. Continental is even higher in places I checked.<br />

2. Diesel particulate filter needs changing (as dealers said) and I changed it.<br />

3. My break pads worn out in 44k<br />

In fact the wear sensor is programmed to 40k.

That's about the Beemer.

4vezel costs 11000 for a service (5000km) and if you want a 10000km oil in it, costs 18000 rupees<br />

I have commented about things I have first hand experience on. ok?

Sasika,

SL's Dealership's Workmanship is something im not happy about, they dont know a crap on many thing's

in Diesels you dont have to Change the DPF, there's a process called DPF Regeneration , so you don't have to change it,

And as don Mentioned Brake Pad wear Sensor it's not a Programmable thingy, its just a kind of a switch which is really simple in design,

for BMW diesel's SL Dealership uses the wrong oil, for new diesel's you have to use BMW LL Oil, i know couple of people who are having way shorter service interval's(try 5000km vs the 12000 miles) because of wrong oil used by the Dealership, main reason these engines have a way to know if the oil viscosity has deteriorated or contaminated when using then tell you service interval is up.(if you see the Service interval threshold's set in a cluster of an e46 you will be pretty bummed)

and for the Brake Pad's Doesn't Any car would wear out brake pad in every 40-50k KM's?

Btw Sasika, dont think im keep on coming at you, just do your research(im telling these from my experience), don't believe everything the dealer say

these new engine

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Janith Seneviratne" data-cid="273001" data-time="1424837303"><p>

 <br />

Sasika,<br />

 <br />

SL's Dealership's Workmanship is something im not happy about, they dont know a crap on many thing's<br />

 <br />

in Diesels you dont have to Change the DPF, there's a process called DPF Regeneration , so you don't have to change it,<br />

And as don Mentioned Brake Pad wear Sensor it's not a Programmable thingy, its just a kind of a switch which is really simple in design,<br />

for BMW diesel's SL Dealership uses the wrong oil, for new diesel's you have to use BMW LL Oil, i know couple of people who are having way shorter service interval's(try 5000km vs the 12000 miles) because of wrong oil used by the Dealership, main reason these engines have a way to know if the oil viscosity has deteriorated or contaminated when using then tell you service interval is up.(if you see the Service interval threshold's set in a cluster of an e46 you will be pretty bummed)<br />

and for the Brake Pad's Doesn't Any car would wear out brake pad in every 40-50k KM's?<br />

 <br />

Btw Sasika, dont think im keep on coming at you, just do your research(im telling these from my experience), don't believe everything the dealer say<br />

 <br />

these new engine </p></blockquote>

No no I'm not thinking like that :) they use castrol (dont remember the model). I think it's the recommended as the user manual specifies that oil. I knew nothing about DPF but now I am reading thanks to you guys. Break wear maybe little high maybe cz of the way I drive. Well about the break wear sensor, what I mentioned above was regarding what the computer shows. It first showed 40k km and keeps dropping. That's why I thought it's programmed to 40k. And I don't think I will go to dealers again. They just rip us off.

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