Jump to content
  • Welcome to AutoLanka

    :action-smiley-028: We found you speeding on AutoLanka Forums without any registration! If you want the best experience, please sign in. Safe driving! 

Toyota C-HR - Problem in Fuel Injectors (GDI)


gayanath

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
On 8/14/2020 at 2:22 PM, gayanath said:

Update:

Next, he immersed the injector in a solvent bath for about two days (tip only) and then cleaned the injector 3 times by ultrasonic cleaning. and tested with WD40 as well. No improvement in static flow rate (still 45 ml) but all other things were perfect(spay pattern in different modes, coil parameters, etc). He also cleaned the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel tank, and applied injector cleaning additives to new fuels. The injectors were reinstalled last Sunday and has been running so far without any issues or errors up to now. 

Latest update just after one year: 

Last week, his car again got engine malfunction errors (same as before) + parking brake locked. Millage is 42,000+ km. Finally he had to replace the malfunctioning injector (TL price Rs. 65,000 including 10% discount).

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 10/9/2021 at 11:59 AM, gayanath said:

Latest update just after one year: 

Last week, his car again got engine malfunction errors (same as before) + parking brake locked. Millage is 42,000+ km. Finally he had to replace the malfunctioning injector (TL price Rs. 65,000 including 10% discount).

So can we say that this issue is a design failure?

When I was researching around this vehicle model for a personal buy, this issue was mentioned frequently. Some said it would come around 40km mileage.

But one guy from TL said it could be an inherent issue and might occur at any time irrespective of the mileage.

Experts, any update on this regard?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/7/2022 at 5:23 PM, Trump said:

So can we say that this issue is a design failure?

When I was researching around this vehicle model for a personal buy, this issue was mentioned frequently. Some said it would come around 40km mileage.

But one guy from TL said it could be an inherent issue and might occur at any time irrespective of the mileage.

Experts, any update on this regard?

Well..could be a combination of many things....

It could be Toyota using a part that has a tolerance lesser than what is required (but still within their range of acceptabiity and would not necessarily trigger warranty claims or requre a recall) or has an acceptable tolerance level only under a very specific circumstance (eg...very specific type of fuel). 

Which also makes what the TL guy said also valid, if it is an inherent issue the issue can happen at anytime. After all it is not like there is a mileage/time counter that tells it to malfunction.  Certain circumstances (like at present) causes it to fail at the 40-50k range...but if the factors of those circumstances are intesified it could very well occur earlier...and if the factors are weakened then it would come later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, ajm said:

Yes it a combination of Toyota gdi design problems with our fuel quality (sulfur etc.)

Which makes me wonder how these new cars are coping these days with fuel quality being somewhat (supposedly) questionable.  Some of these problems might get aggrevated and users might start to see issues such as this occur sooner/earlier than otherwise expected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/2/2020 at 11:03 AM, vitz said:

Yes, compared to EC, the Carbon built up in the CHR is substantial. We have done already 37000 km in CHR but no warning lights yet.

But I feel the smoothness of the CHR engine is pretty inferior compared to the EC. I did not get a chance to compare that with another CHR.....

Now we have clocked 62000 in our Ch-R. Oct 92 throughout, no issues up until now... Almost time to change brake pads. Just to tell you, brake pads of Ch-R held for 62000 but Eclipse cross brake pads lasted just only for 30000 km!!!

Edited by vitz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/14/2022 at 6:02 AM, vitz said:

Now we have clocked 62000 in our Ch-R. Oct 92 throughout, no issues up until now... Almost time to change brake pads. Just to tell you, brake pads of Ch-R held for 62000 but Eclipse cross brake pads lasted just only for 30000 km!!!

Same here. I have an AWD version .

Done 72k kms.

Used 92 octane petrol

Changed brake pads around 57k kms

Changed tyre set at 50k kms

No any other issues upto now

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/14/2022 at 6:02 AM, vitz said:

Now we have clocked 62000 in our Ch-R. Oct 92 throughout, no issues up until now... Almost time to change brake pads. Just to tell you, brake pads of Ch-R held for 62000 but Eclipse cross brake pads lasted just only for 30000 km!!!

Our CHR now clocked 50k. used 92 octane. no injector issues or any issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/23/2022 at 9:49 PM, sathyajithj99 said:

Same here. I have an AWD version .

Done 72k kms.

Used 92 octane petrol

Changed brake pads around 57k kms

Changed tyre set at 50k kms

No any other issues upto now

 

 

Did you get done the Brake Work from the TL? or out side. If so, were you able to find out genuine parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, vitz said:

Did you get done the Brake Work from the TL? or out side. If so, were you able to find out genuine parts.

Since there is no TL in Nuwara Eliya , I did it from somewhere else I personally know . I bought brembo pads from a spare parts shop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/25/2022 at 8:08 PM, sathyajithj99 said:

Since there is no TL in Nuwara Eliya , I did it from somewhere else I personally know . I bought brembo pads from a spare parts shop.

Great. I may try that option too. What is the Brembo part number. How the electronic parking brake was released by your machanic.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/27/2022 at 7:56 PM, vitz said:

Great. I may try that option too. What is the Brembo part number. How the electronic parking brake was released by your machanic.

 

 

 

Here are some photos.

Didn't check. Let me ask him and tell you 

 

20220329_070026.jpg

20220329_070005.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hunting for brake pads......no luck in Kandy. Anyone can help me to get it.

We are going through a terrible time, most auto shops hide the stock expecting high prices. Really fed up with the life in SL!!!:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
On 3/29/2022 at 7:03 AM, sathyajithj99 said:

Here are some photos.

Didn't check. Let me ask him and tell you 

 

20220329_070026.jpg

20220329_070005.jpg

Hi All,

I replaced Genuine Brake pads of my CHR with Brembo as used by Sathyajith. Surprisingly,  After 7500 km the rear brake pads are almost gone (even hear the warning noise), but the front ones are as it was fixed. I expected other way round. Its remarkable that the genuine one which was done almost 55000 km is now less worn than the Brembo.

I am wondering what is going on here!!!! Has something wrong with brake pads (both are from the same material)? Whether it is not compatible? or mechanical error (I found dried caliper pins in rear break, but rear wheels did not show any sign of stucked brake pads) 

One observation I made!!!! When reversing I could hear the break wear warning noise, without pressing brake pedal!!!!though it is strange!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, vitz said:

Hi All,

I replaced Genuine Brake pads of my CHR with Brembo as used by Sathyajith. Surprisingly,  After 7500 km the rear brake pads are almost gone (even hear the warning noise), but the front ones are as it was fixed. I expected other way round. Its remarkable that the genuine one which was done almost 55000 km is now less worn than the Brembo.

I am wondering what is going on here!!!! Has something wrong with brake pads (both are from the same material)? Whether it is not compatible? or mechanical error (I found dried caliper pins in rear break, but rear wheels did not show any sign of stucked brake pads) 

One observation I made!!!! When reversing I could hear the break wear warning noise, without pressing brake pedal!!!!though it is strange!!!

Well....different types of brake pads wear out in different ways and at different rates. If you take performance pads, they give good feedback, has good heat tolerance, stops really well but they do not last that long as standard brake pads. So Brembo, Endless or whatever, it is important that you get a model that is intended for street use. Even then, they will not last as long as some of the stock pads. So it is not uncommon for performance pads to wear out somewhat faster than stock pads. Sadly most shops selling things like Brembo pads, etc...have no idea or care about these things as they just focus on selling the brand.

So, as for your issue, 7500km even for performance pads seem a bit excessive unless you were driving really hard. Are you sure what you here are the replacement pins making the noise ? Performance pads do tend to make more noises than standard pads. You should pop off the wheels and actually measure the thickness of the pads.

Having said that, it could be that the model used is for track use (or something) and with your driving style it just wore out. Could you have gotten a fake set? Improper installation could cause wear as well as the pads are fitted in a way that makes them constantly grinding against the disk (but then for both sides to be improperly installed whoever fitted it has to be really really bad at it.); or something is wrong with your hubs or something that is causing the disks to be misaligned causing brake grind (atleast in reverse)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/23/2023 at 5:36 AM, vitz said:

Hi All,

I replaced Genuine Brake pads of my CHR with Brembo as used by Sathyajith. Surprisingly,  After 7500 km the rear brake pads are almost gone (even hear the warning noise), but the front ones are as it was fixed. I expected other way round. Its remarkable that the genuine one which was done almost 55000 km is now less worn than the Brembo.

I am wondering what is going on here!!!! Has something wrong with brake pads (both are from the same material)? Whether it is not compatible? or mechanical error (I found dried caliper pins in rear break, but rear wheels did not show any sign of stucked brake pads) 

One observation I made!!!! When reversing I could hear the break wear warning noise, without pressing brake pedal!!!!though it is strange!!!

Mine used to make the same noise when they were worn out.

Replaced pads are still doing fine. Current ODO is 84k

Regarding releasing the electronic parking brake when changing brake pads : this is only needed when you change rear brake pads . What they did was started the vehicle , applied gears to neutal position , then swiched off the engine ( now the electronic parking brake is disengaged )

While changing pads , they supplied electricity to the e brake with a backup 12V battery .

Advisable to get this done at TL since it seems a bit complicated . Next time I'm also planning to go to the agents.

Edited by sathyajithj99
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/23/2023 at 2:46 PM, iRage said:

Well....different types of brake pads wear out in different ways and at different rates. If you take performance pads, they give good feedback, has good heat tolerance, stops really well but they do not last that long as standard brake pads. So Brembo, Endless or whatever, it is important that you get a model that is intended for street use. Even then, they will not last as long as some of the stock pads. So it is not uncommon for performance pads to wear out somewhat faster than stock pads. Sadly most shops selling things like Brembo pads, etc...have no idea or care about these things as they just focus on selling the brand.

So, as for your issue, 7500km even for performance pads seem a bit excessive unless you were driving really hard. Are you sure what you here are the replacement pins making the noise ? Performance pads do tend to make more noises than standard pads. You should pop off the wheels and actually measure the thickness of the pads.

Having said that, it could be that the model used is for track use (or something) and with your driving style it just wore out. Could you have gotten a fake set? Improper installation could cause wear as well as the pads are fitted in a way that makes them constantly grinding against the disk (but then for both sides to be improperly installed whoever fitted it has to be really really bad at it.); or something is wrong with your hubs or something that is causing the disks to be misaligned causing brake grind (atleast in reverse)

Thanks IRage,

I don't think they are performance pads. its made for CH-R and a Lexus model. I got it directly from the Agent in Sri Lanka and had no hallmarks of a fake stuff, it came with all sort of things such as instruction manuals, fancy stickers etc. But, never know. 

I do agree, the wear is too much. Should not be the driving style as my Wife used it, but the stock one did almost 65000 km. I popped off the wheels and checked everything. Follow are the observations:

1. Pads were badly worn. Even on a one pad one side was chipped off. 

2. Caliper pins are quite stucked. Even rubber sleeve of one was gone. I am wondering the people did the brake pad replacement used a bad quality greased. I remembered they used STR brand stuff (not sikens)

3. Today, I replaced the stock one which was there when replacement was done. They garage guys put a quite a bill though, I could not do it by myself as retracting parking brake was necessary using the scanner.

4. Front brake was as new. Since both front and rear are same type of construction it should not be the type of brake pads. Perhaps, something might have gone wrong when manufacturing rear pads.

I am not sure what can go wrong when fixing new pads. But, we never know the quality of work of our garage people :). My suspicion goes to poor quality silcone based grease used by our garage people. The grease has ruined (expanded) in our CHR and also EC for which also pads were replaced by the same garage. Due to this issue, I checked brake pads of my EC (Used genuine stuff but replaced from the same garage), in which also caliper pins were badly stucked and rubber sleeve was expanded. I had to remove rubber sleeve of caliper pins when greasing and replacing. Lesson is, good to grease caliper pins at lease once in 5000 km (6 months). Moreover, pads of EC were not worn though pins were stucked!!!! 

It can't be a issue of the hub as the stock brake gave nearly 65000 km even leaving quite a thick pad.

 

rgds

Edited by vitz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/23/2023 at 5:51 PM, sathyajithj99 said:

Mine used to make the same noise when they were worn out.

Replaced pads are still doing fine. Current ODO is 84k

Regarding releasing the electronic parking brake when changing brake pads : this is only needed when you change rear brake pads . What they did was started the vehicle , applied gears to neutal position , then swiched off the engine ( now the electronic parking brake is disengaged )

While changing pads , they supplied electricity to the e brake with a backup 12V battery .

Advisable to get this done at TL since it seems a bit complicated . Next time I'm also planning to go to the agents.

Thanks Sathyajith,

Given the same stuff we both used, I am confused with what has went wrong. It seems yours have done almost 20000 km. But better check out pads. Also, caliper pins of CHR tends to dry up very quickly, make sure to grease them once in 5000 km. Its a DIY, if you need a help regarding tools required and how to do,  pls let me know.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/25/2023 at 11:26 PM, vitz said:

Thanks Sathyajith,

Given the same stuff we both used, I am confused with what has went wrong. It seems yours have done almost 20000 km. But better check out pads. Also, caliper pins of CHR tends to dry up very quickly, make sure to grease them once in 5000 km. Its a DIY, if you need a help regarding tools required and how to do,  pls let me know.

 

Welcome. Should check mine too, but they're not making any sounds yet. If you don't mind please PM me how you do it. It would be a great help. TIA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/26/2023 at 2:53 AM, vitz said:

Should not be the driving style as my Wife used it

I am not saying your wife is the same...but I have noticed that the women in my life drive a lot on the brakes. When crawling they tend to keep the foot slightly on the brake and then they tend to be a bit hard on the brakes to come to a stop. So even the driving is slow (irrespective of gender) it can put a lot of wear and tear on the pads.

 

On 2/26/2023 at 2:53 AM, vitz said:

2. Caliper pins are quite stucked. Even rubber sleeve of one was gone. I am wondering the people did the brake pad replacement used a bad quality greased. I remembered they used STR brand stuff (not sikens)

Could be. Hate to see this but a lot of garages in SL either don't use grease at all or use standard chassis grease (yes ! chassis grease) on the claipers (chassis grease does not with stand heat).

 

On 2/26/2023 at 2:53 AM, vitz said:

Front brake was as new. Since both front and rear are same type of construction it should not be the type of brake pads. Perhaps, something might have gone wrong when manufacturing rear pads.

HIghly unlikely if they were proper genuine stuff but still probable I suppose. Is the batch number visible on the pad still ? You can always check the Brembo site if they have mentioned anything about a bad batch.

Well...seems like the issue was with the pins and grease used, etc....I suppose that made the disks to always maintain some kind of contact with the disk. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/28/2023 at 8:52 AM, iRage said:

I am not saying your wife is the same...but I have noticed that the women in my life drive a lot on the brakes. When crawling they tend to keep the foot slightly on the brake and then they tend to be a bit hard on the brakes to come to a stop. So even the driving is slow (irrespective of gender) it can put a lot of wear and tear on the pads.

 

Could be. Hate to see this but a lot of garages in SL either don't use grease at all or use standard chassis grease (yes ! chassis grease) on the claipers (chassis grease does not with stand heat).

 

HIghly unlikely if they were proper genuine stuff but still probable I suppose. Is the batch number visible on the pad still ? You can always check the Brembo site if they have mentioned anything about a bad batch.

Well...seems like the issue was with the pins and grease used, etc....I suppose that made the disks to always maintain some kind of contact with the disk. 

I agree with you. Often our garage guys are without basics. They never know why silicone based grease should be used in when rubber parts are in contact. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/27/2023 at 11:04 AM, sathyajithj99 said:

Welcome. Should check mine too, but they're not making any sounds yet. If you don't mind please PM me how you do it. It would be a great help. TIA.

Hi sathyajith,

Its not a difficult task if you are familiar with disk brake system. If you are not familiar,  get a good machanic to your place and provide raw materials (brake cleaner, silicone based grease"people callled it as "rubber grease") are the items you need to get it done!!!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
On 3/9/2022 at 2:54 PM, iRage said:

Well..could be a combination of many things....

It could be Toyota using a part that has a tolerance lesser than what is required (but still within their range of acceptabiity and would not necessarily trigger warranty claims or requre a recall) or has an acceptable tolerance level only under a very specific circumstance (eg...very specific type of fuel). 

Which also makes what the TL guy said also valid, if it is an inherent issue the issue can happen at anytime. After all it is not like there is a mileage/time counter that tells it to malfunction.  Certain circumstances (like at present) causes it to fail at the 40-50k range...but if the factors of those circumstances are intesified it could very well occur earlier...and if the factors are weakened then it would come later.

 

My 2017 NGX 50 is experiencing the same issue. I noticed misfires when starting to drive and reversing, and later while driving at around 1500 RPM. Today, I cleaned my injectors and performed a tune-up, but the problem has only worsened. It's now difficult to even drive 2 km. What could be the solution? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


AutoLanka Cars For Sale

Post Your Ad Free [Click Here]



×
×
  • Create New...