Help With My New Cs3

[vidura]

Done the cleanup on last week and still didn't notice the RPM fluctuation after that. Hope issue is solved thnx for the great help

Regarding the display that we discuss early stages finally i end up with my own installation like this

[vidura]

planing to buy alloy wheel set for my car any cheep good place around colombo?

[Davy]

planing to buy alloy wheel set for my car any cheep good place around colombo?

Try JJ Lanka at Mount Lavinia.

[vidura]

does CS has seal belt warning light. It was their in my manual. But really not exist in my car. Does my bulb gone? but i cant see the wire that connect to seat belt

[Davy]

does CS has seal belt warning light. It was their in my manual. But really not exist in my car. Does my bulb gone? but i cant see the wire that connect to seat belt

The ones that were imported brand new doesn't have the seat belt indicator as far as I know. The manual generally has everything, for example I'm sure it has info on how to operate the sun roof and cruise control as well.

[vidura]

yes this car is brand new imported fro permit. As i know airbags on only if seat is belt wear. SO in that case if my car does not have sensor to check seat belt status does air bag is on always?

[Davy]

yes this car is brand new imported fro permit. As i know airbags on only if seat is belt wear. SO in that case if my car does not have sensor to check seat belt status does air bag is on always?

The seat belt needs to be worn regardless of whether there is a sensor or not. The primary reason for having the seatbelt is to keep the driver and passengers on the seats and to deploy the airbags directly at them (if available). If seatbelts are not used, it's possible that the occupants are thrown all over the car and are injured/killed in the process (maybe even injured by the airbag itself).

Some models of the CS came with pre-tensioners for the seatbelts which are equipped with the sensor for the seat belt indicator. As far as I know, the brand new CS imports does not have pre-tensioners for seatbelts (and therefore no indicator). What the pre-tensioner does is, it tensions the seat belt upon impact so that the occupants are pressed to their seats before the airbags are deployed. I'm guessing that the respective airbag is not deployed if the seatbelt is not worn for models that does have pre-tensioners. But for the rest, they work based on the G sensor's signal only, so all airbags are deployed upon collision.

[vidura]

The seat belt needs to be worn regardless of whether there is a sensor or not. The primary reason for having the seatbelt is to keep the driver and passengers on the seats and to deploy the airbags directly at them (if available). If seatbelts are not used, it's possible that the occupants are thrown all over the car and are injured/killed in the process (maybe even injured by the airbag itself).

Some models of the CS came with pre-tensioners for the seatbelts which are equipped with the sensor for the seat belt indicator. As far as I know, the brand new CS imports does not have pre-tensioners for seatbelts (and therefore no indicator). What the pre-tensioner does is, it tensions the seat belt upon impact so that the occupants are pressed to their seats before the airbags are deployed. I'm guessing that the respective airbag is not deployed if the seatbelt is not worn for models that does have pre-tensioners. But for the rest, they work based on the G sensor's signal only, so all airbags are deployed upon collision.

Thnx for the information. Hope my airbags will work when it needs

Anyway did you see the my display installation (posted 2-3 articles before)?

Does anyone know the place to make eyebrow

http://www.e-shoppinghouse.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=1191

[Davy]

Thnx for the information. Hope my airbags will work when it needs

Anyway did you see the my display installation (posted 2-3 articles before)?

Does anyone know the place to make eyebrow

http://www.e-shoppinghouse.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=1191

Yeah, saw it. Looks good. Two concerns I had were whethere it doesn't obstruct your field of view and whether there is a way to hide the wires dangling all over the dashboard. I wish there still was a double din conversion kit for the CS.

As for the eyelid, you may want to check out ACCOLADE at Ja-Ela. They manufacture and export all over the world and I remember them having a CS specific eyelid (amongst their vast array of other stuff for the CS).

[vidura]

Yeah, saw it. Looks good. Two concerns I had were whethere it doesn't obstruct your field of view and whether there is a way to hide the wires dangling all over the dashboard. I wish there still was a double din conversion kit for the CS.

As for the eyelid, you may want to check out ACCOLADE at Ja-Ela. They manufacture and export all over the world and I remember them having a CS specific eyelid (amongst their vast array of other stuff for the CS).

regarding the display It didn't obstruct field of view much . I place the display as much as lower for clear view. Regarding the wires hear i post the image just after fix the display yesterday i don the wiring for the display and hide all the wires that were in all over the dashboard. I will upload a image soon.

[vidura]

hi i got 2 issues recently hope you guys can help on this too

1. my reverse light + reverse sensor didnt work from last week. Bulbs and others are ok hope the issue in reverse light switch. Can i know where is it? Can i replace/repair it at home or do need to go to garage?
2. When i do sudden breading at speed more that 20KMph i hear some "kata kata" sound like coming from front side. Not immediately like 1 second after breaking. No sound in normal breaking only on sudden stop. I replace all the break pads 2 months back too. Is it due to ABS? Or any other issue?

[Davy]

hi i got 2 issues recently hope you guys can help on this too

1. my reverse light + reverse sensor didnt work from last week. Bulbs and others are ok hope the issue in reverse light switch. Can i know where is it? Can i replace/repair it at home or do need to go to garage?
2. When i do sudden breading at speed more that 20KMph i hear some "kata kata" sound like coming from front side. Not immediately like 1 second after breaking. No sound in normal breaking only on sudden stop. I replace all the break pads 2 months back too. Is it due to ABS? Or any other issue?

1. Reverse light issue:

Check the fuses first. The reverse light sensor is plugged into the gearbox. It's located right underneath the air filter air duct and where the clutch hydraulic line enters the gearbox. Check the connector to see if it has come loose. You can manually check the reverse light switch by switching on the car and putting it into reverse (engine doesn't have to be running) and using a multi meter to check whether the reverse light switch actually works.If everything else is alright and the switch is not working, then you will have to replace it.

I had an issue where the reverse lights would work only intermittently when shifted into reverse. the cause was a small engine oil leak from the cam position sensor housing directly onto the reverse sensor connector. Fixing the oil leak and cleaning up the connector solved my problem.

2. Braking issue:

Did you use genuine or aftermarket brake pads? If you used aftermarket cheap ones, you might want to check if the pads are cracked or damaged. Also, if aftermarket pads were used, they might not be sitting properly on the caliper and causing the caliper pins and the shims to be moved under heavy braking, causing noise.

[vidura]

1. Reverse light issue:

Check the fuses first. The reverse light sensor is plugged into the gearbox. It's located right underneath the air filter air duct and where the clutch hydraulic line enters the gearbox. Check the connector to see if it has come loose. You can manually check the reverse light switch by switching on the car and putting it into reverse (engine doesn't have to be running) and using a multi meter to check whether the reverse light switch actually works.If everything else is alright and the switch is not working, then you will have to replace it.

I had an issue where the reverse lights would work only intermittently when shifted into reverse. the cause was a small engine oil leak from the cam position sensor housing directly onto the reverse sensor connector. Fixing the oil leak and cleaning up the connector solved my problem.

2. Braking issue:

Did you use genuine or aftermarket brake pads? If you used aftermarket cheap ones, you might want to check if the pads are cracked or damaged. Also, if aftermarket pads were used, they might not be sitting properly on the caliper and causing the caliper pins and the shims to be moved under heavy braking, causing noise.

Great i will check this weekend and update you.

Yes i used aftermarket brake pads it cost me around 4000/= for frond disk pads

[vidura]

Great i will check this weekend and update you.

Yes i used aftermarket brake pads it cost me around 4000/= for frond disk pads

replaced the reverse switch with japan one cost 2750/=

regarding the break sound my mechanic guy told it is normal and comes due to ABS activation.

[iRage]

replaced the reverse switch with japan one cost 2750/=

regarding the break sound my mechanic guy told it is normal and comes due to ABS activation.

From your first description I am more inclined towards what Davy said...another option is had a few work vehicles that were fitted with aftermarket pads which didn't fit well in to the caliper; when fitted left a small gap on the sides which every time when braking made a knocking noise.

So maybe you should get a second opinion on the brakes ?

If it actually is ABS I have to ask how hard are/were you braking ?! Do you get a pulsating feel as well ? It is hard to imagine that you activate the ABS every time you break "suddenly" <unless when you say suddenly you are just slamming on the brake pedal>

[vidura]

From your first description I am more inclined towards what Davy said...another option is had a few work vehicles that were fitted with aftermarket pads which didn't fit well in to the caliper; when fitted left a small gap on the sides which every time when braking made a knocking noise.

So maybe you should get a second opinion on the brakes ?

If it actually is ABS I have to ask how hard are/were you braking ?! Do you get a pulsating feel as well ? It is hard to imagine that you activate the ABS every time you break "suddenly" <unless when you say suddenly you are just slamming on the brake pedal>

just like i want to stop car in a 1 second while it run nearly 30KMph. Sound is not coming just after break. it comes after some time may be car going to start skid. That is why mechanic guy told it is due to ABC. SO he break on place that has more sands (more slippery) and sound comes more quickly than normal road.

So he told that is all because of ABS is it possible?

[iRage]

just like i want to stop car in a 1 second while it run nearly 30KMph. Sound is not coming just after break. it comes after some time may be car going to start skid. That is why mechanic guy told it is due to ABC. SO he break on place that has more sands (more slippery) and sound comes more quickly than normal road.

So he told that is all because of ABS is it possible?

Well the mechanic is describing the noise/grind/groan that you get with "ABS jitter/vibration" and you feel a pulsation in the pedal as well (albeit in some cars it is more subdued than in others)...so if that is what you feel as well then it could be the ABS like the mechanic said. So it could be...

if you are confident about the diagnosis it is all fine...but then again there is nothing wrong with routinely taking those wheels off and checking things like brakes to make sure everything is in order.

[Rumesh88]

@vidura - It could be that one or more of you wheel sensors failing to detect the wheel rotation at low speeds is causing ABS to kick in a bit earlier than necessary even if the wheel is not actually slipping. This kind of faults may not give you a CEL indication initially but if the situation deteriorate further you will definitely get an alarm. On a well leveled and dry carpeted road, apply brakes at a moderate (7-8m braking distance) and constant level while travelling at around 30kmph to bring the car to a complete stop. Do this barefooted to feel the pedal better. If you feel the pulsating sensation just before the car stops, then it could very well be one or more of the wheel sensors.

Edited May 20, 2014 by Rumesh88

[vidura]

done the service today (81k) changes gear oil, oil filter and engine oil. cost me 9200+/=

when they change the engine oil i asked the type and the guy told it was 20W-50 but when i see the bill at night it billed to engine oil type 10W-30. Wen i check the history of the servise all the time it added 20W-50.

No idea who is correct service guy or bill

If any case will 10W-30 will be harmful for engine?

[The Don]

done the service today (81k) changes gear oil, oil filter and engine oil. cost me 9200+/=

when they change the engine oil i asked the type and the guy told it was 20W-50 but when i see the bill at night it billed to engine oil type 10W-30. Wen i check the history of the servise all the time it added 20W-50.

No idea who is correct service guy or bill

If any case will 10W-30 will be harmful for engine?

10W-30 is the standard viscosity of engine oil recommended by most motor manufacturers. So for a Mitsubishi, particularly with a new engine its perfectly fine and absolutely advisable to use this grade.

As the engine ages people tend to switch to higher viscosities like 40 or in your case 50, but to be honest for newer engines this is not necessary and if anything will call a slight dip in fuel economy

[vidura]

10W-30 is the standard viscosity of engine oil recommended by most motor manufacturers. So for a Mitsubishi, particularly with a new engine its perfectly fine and absolutely advisable to use this grade.

As the engine ages people tend to switch to higher viscosities like 40 or in your case 50, but to be honest for newer engines this is not necessary and if anything will call a slight dip in fuel economy

i didn't get about fuel economy you mean 10-30 thing gives more KMpl than 20W-50

SO 10W-30 is okay for engine driven 81000+Km?

Edited June 20, 2014 by vidura

[The Don]

i didn't get about fuel economy you mean 10-30 thing gives more KMpl than 20W-50

SO 10W-30 is okay for engine driven 81000+Km?

If its genuine 81000 km it should be fine.

Basically the engine has to use its own power to pump the oil around. Thinner oil (10W-30) is requires less effort to pump around than thicker oil (20W-50) thus gives you a bit better fuel economy. Thicker oil gives you a bit more protection.

[vidura]

If its genuine 81000 km it should be fine.

Basically the engine has to use its own power to pump the oil around. Thinner oil (10W-30) is requires less effort to pump around than thicker oil (20W-50) thus gives you a bit better fuel economy. Thicker oil gives you a bit more protection.

great thanks for the quick reply really appreciate it

[vidura]

where can i buy spoiler like blow

http://www.wiseautoworks.com/index.php?ws=showproducts&products_id=33894〈=&cat=mitsubishi&subcat=

With read light in middle.

And how much will it cost? My car is blue color

[trinity]

where can i buy spoiler like blow

http://www.wiseautoworks.com/index.php?ws=showproducts&products_id=33894〈=&cat=mitsubishi&subcat=

With read light in middle.

And how much will it cost? My car is blue color

Call Hashen 0776204776