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Nissan N16 Bluebird Sylphy Over Heating


autocruise

Question

I bought a nissan n16 bluebird sylphy recently and it started overheating when running normally and then i showed it to a mechanic and he said i need to replace the gasket. Then we started removing the engine and found that the gasket needs replacing and further more the piston rings needs replacing as well. while doing all that the mechanic removed the water pump and was surprised to see the state of the water pump and the blades were all broken and it was like empty inside the water pump. so now decided to replace water pump as well. will doing all this sort my problem and is this the right way to do it..

Appreciate if anyone give there ideas as the engine is removed at the minute and i can do everything the right way..

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  On 2/16/2014 at 2:31 PM, autocruise said:
its 123xxx something.. not exactly sure how genuine it is.. bt seems genuine

is this QG18/QG15 ?

123xxx shouldn't be a mileage for such an engine to go kaput if the car has been maintained properly. Time to get everything checked properly, things could be waiting to pop up any minute.

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  On 2/16/2014 at 2:42 PM, NRX said:
is this QG18/QG15 ?

123xxx shouldn't be a mileage for such an engine to go kaput if the car has been maintained properly. Time to get everything checked properly, things could be waiting to pop up any minute.

it is the QG15 and yes when speaking with the mechanic he says that the previous owners had tried to repair but haven't checked the water pump which according to him is the main issue... he showed me the water pump all the 6 blades were broken.. the engine fully removed now and according to the mechanic water pump, gasket and piston rings would do.. i wouldn't mind spending more and getting more parts if required but according to him that's all you need.. so hopefully it goes well

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  On 2/16/2014 at 2:46 PM, autocruise said:
it is the QG15 and yes when speaking with the mechanic he says that the previous owners had tried to repair but haven't checked the water pump which according to him is the main issue... he showed me the water pump all the 6 blades were broken.. the engine fully removed now and according to the mechanic water pump, gasket and piston rings would do.. i wouldn't mind spending more and getting more parts if required but according to him that's all you need.. so hopefully it goes well

Check the timing chain and the related parts as well. To be on the safe side inspect your brakes and steering components too. ( Going by VVTi's 300K theory :) )

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  On 2/16/2014 at 2:54 PM, NRX said:
Check the timing chain and the related parts as well. To be on the safe side inspect your brakes and steering components too. ( Going by VVTi's 300K theory :) )

Yes changing the brake pads.. and will be checking the rest as well... my main concern is doing all this should solve the issue right.. :S

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  On 2/16/2014 at 2:58 PM, autocruise said:
Yes changing the brake pads.. and will be checking the rest as well... my main concern is doing all this should solve the issue right.. :S

You might have to resurface the head if it's warped :)

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Since this is an issue with the cooling system that blew the gasket, I can suggest that you take off the radiator and give it a thorough clean-up as well. The deteriorated water pump's parts might be blocking a few lines in the core.

Edited by Davy
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Thanks guys for all your inputs... appreciate it :)

the engine is now fixed and car is ready but the check engine light is coming up now... does this usually happen when an engine is fully assembled and fixed or from a sensor.. car is still in the garage thinking of taking it for a scan tomorrow...

any ideas are welcome :)

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  On 2/18/2014 at 4:07 AM, Davy said:
Since this is an issue with the cooling system that blew the gasket, I can suggest that you take off the radiator and give it a thorough clean-up as well. The deteriorated water pump's parts might be blocking a few lines in the core.

this is the first thing that came in my mind as well, after reading the water pump condition. i hope that big chunks are not stick anywhere in the water paths. cleaning the radiator and pipes is recommended.

some cars' electronic systems have ghosts in side them. Like the FB 15 i had earlier. Disconnecting the engine senor connectors while battery is connected will send a signal to the computer indicating an error in the system. This will sometimes stay in the memory and even if everything is working properly the indication comes on. Best thing is to do is to connect an analyzer and check the system and if there are any stored errors to remove them, will cost you about Rs 1000-1500. This is what i did most of the time with my FB 15.

BTW does anyone know if there are any big chunks stuck in the engine block how we can remove those??

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  On 2/25/2014 at 4:22 AM, charithtg said:
BTW does anyone know if there are any big chunks stuck in the engine block how we can remove those??

For removing debris you can access some parts, if not all, of the water path by removing the water jackets(plugs) around the engine block. However, this is usually done during an engine overhaul.

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  On 2/25/2014 at 4:43 AM, Rumesh88 said:
For removing debris you can access some parts, if not all, of the water path by removing the water jackets(plugs) around the engine block. However, this is usually done during an engine overhaul.

is using high pressure water when the engine block is not completely dissmantalted is an option?? not only to get the brownish sedimants out but to get the larger debris out as well, in this case a corrodded water pump fin (if any are stuck).

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  On 2/25/2014 at 5:52 AM, charithtg said:
is using high pressure water when the engine block is not completely dissmantalted is an option?? not only to get the brownish sedimants out but to get the larger debris out as well, in this case a corrodded water pump fin (if any are stuck).

It is unlikely for the broken water pump fins to end up in the engine block because usually the debris first enter from the radiator tank top and settles on top part of the core except for those small enough to get through the core. You cannot pass a high pressure water flow through the block unless you remove the water pump along with the thermostat which will stand in the way of the water path. I do not think you have to go to that extent to clean the engine block in your case.

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well had to change the piston rings as well so the engine block n everything was removed and cleaned with high pressure water... everything is fixed now and car is in running condition.. its done about 200km since the repair and so far no issues so hopefully it stays like like...

Should i do an engine tuneup now? or run as usual for sometime

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