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How Important Is The Thermostat?


VVTi

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OK machan.. will check.

One question about Wurth, That one litre bottle, is it to be mixed with water or used as is?

Yes, that's the one

Drain the system, pour 2/3rd of the bottle in, fill up with distill water, bleed/burp the system. Fill the balance in to the coolant reservoir and gain top up to the Fill/Max level with distilled water.

For your Mitsi, I would say use the Valvoline stuff that is available at Unimo. Nilanka who does work on my Subie said the Valvolone stuff is what he uses. I was too lazy to drive to Hyde Park and buy the can, hence the easy Wurth path.

But so far, quite happy with the results.

Edited by VVTi
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Yes, that's the one

Drain the system, pour 2/3rd of the bottle in, fill up with distill water, bleed/burp the system. Fill the balance in to the coolant reservoir and gain top up to the Fill/Max level with distilled water.

For your Mitsi, I would say use the Valvoline stuff that is available at Unimo. Nilanka who does work on my Subie said the Valvolone stuff is what he uses. I was too lazy to drive to Hyde Park and buy the can, hence the easy Wurth path.

But so far, quite happy with the results.

Thanks machan.. car ran with wurth up untill my radiator top tank raplaced couple of months back. i could not recall how it was used, thats why asked.Will pay a visit to Unit#d Mot#rs If i happen to go by Union Place in coming days. Else it will be the easy Wurth parth for me as well. :)

Any how I will do it this weekend.

On a side note, Unit#d Mot#rs uses Valvoline engine oil as well, didn't know it up untill recently. If i had known it would've gone for it since the car is a brand new import. Valvoline should be what they have used when the car was serviced under warrenty. I'm Using Mobil btw.

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Great thread indeed. @ VVTi Thanks for open it. Learned a lot. I'll definitely arrange that thing for you in Passikudah soon :) @Rumesh fan finally came on at half mark. Today I bought Wurth coolent and distilled water for a coolent change. Hope everything will be OK though I'm having a water phobia these days.

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  • 3 months later...

Guys. My car had no thermostat earlier and I bought the genuine part and fixed it. Now the temp gauge rises to the half mark quicker than before ( it takes 2-3 minutes when driving and around ~5 minutes of idling). The question is, it takes around 10 minutes to kick in the fans when idling (with some occasional revving) even though the temp gauge reaches half mark in 5 minutes ( and stays there). Do I have to worry about this ?

Edited by NRX
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Guys. My car had no thermostat earlier and I bought the genuine part and fixed it. Now the temp gauge rises to the half mark quicker than before ( it takes 2-3 minutes when driving and around ~5 minutes of idling). The question is, it takes around 10 minutes to kick in the fans when idling (with some occasional revving) even though the temp gauge reaches half mark in 5 minutes ( and stays there). Do I have to worry about this ?

Very simply no. The fan's are not needed as the circulation itself through the radiator is often enough to keep the temperature stable. If the temperature guague does not rise further, the system is in good working condition.

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Very simply no. The fan's are not needed as the circulation itself through the radiator is often enough to keep the temperature stable. If the temperature guague does not rise further, the system is in good working condition.

Understood. Thanks Don :)

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Okay..

New thermostat went in today.

Observations, gauge started to move quicker than before and went tad bit above the quarter point in about two minutes. After about 10 minutes drive in normal traffic conditions, it reached the half mark and stayed there.

So guess now its working as it should. Rumesh I'lll see how and when the fans kick in tommorow and update you.

Hope everything will be ok.

Fingers crossed!!

Oh ho now you do DIY's ah good good......Wonder why you not checking with Sura's trusted grease monkey PRADEEP

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Oh ho now you do DIY's ah good good......Wonder why you not checking with Sura's trusted grease monkey PRADEEP

Pissu da bang,,, it was installed at Unit#d Mot#rs.,.. :P

Sura's Pradda.. ammo he is made for sura and his jeep only,,, ha ha ha

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  • 2 months later...

Hi All,

Back again with the subject. Lately i observed that the temp gauge indicating two different temp levels when driven in night & day time (Hot & Cold environment).

During the day time, gauge comes to the halfway point within about 5 minutes of driving and stays there without any issue. But when driving in night time or in rain temp gauge stops at around quarter mark and does not go up no matter how long the drive is (both in heavy traffic & in less traffic long drive situations).

When the temp is like that car performs in two different ways,

1. With AC on, car does not pull as it sould and even when picking up in first gear it makes lot of ignition noise (that kara kara sound). Also you can hear the ignition noise when you give some gas in the neutral. Engine idles at around 700rpm.

2. With AC off, performance is moderate and does not give ignition noise what so ever. Engine Idles at 900rpm

In both 1 & 2 theres petrol smell coming from the car as well. Also car burns more petrol when driven in night.

In the day time I checked how the fans kick in, in a cold start and they get activated when the temp gauge reaches the quarter point.

This is same in the night time as well.

What could be the reason for this.

p.s. During day time, engine idles at 900 rpm with AC and there's no ignition noise. Car pulls well and no petrol smell.

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Hi All,

Back again with the subject. Lately i observed that the temp gauge indicating two different temp levels when driven in night & day time (Hot & Cold environment).

During the day time, gauge comes to the halfway point within about 5 minutes of driving and stays there without any issue. But when driving in night time or in rain temp gauge stops at around quarter mark and does not go up no matter how long the drive is (both in heavy traffic & in less traffic long drive situations).

When the temp is like that car performs in two different ways,

1. With AC on, car does not pull as it sould and even when picking up in first gear it makes lot of ignition noise (that kara kara sound). Also you can hear the ignition noise when you give some gas in the neutral. Engine idles at around 700rpm.

2. With AC off, performance is moderate and does not give ignition noise what so ever. Engine Idles at 900rpm

In both 1 & 2 theres petrol smell coming from the car as well. Also car burns more petrol when driven in night.

In the day time I checked how the fans kick in, in a cold start and they get activated when the temp gauge reaches the quarter point.

This is same in the night time as well.

What could be the reason for this.

p.s. During day time, engine idles at 900 rpm with AC and there's no ignition noise. Car pulls well and no petrol smell.

Sounds like too much petrol is being injected into the combustion chamber and its not all being burnt off. Is your car carb or EFI?

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Sounds like too much petrol is being injected into the combustion chamber and its not all being burnt off. Is your car carb or EFI?

Carb. Recently tuned using genuine carb repair kit.

Forgive me for my ignorance but how does unburnt petrol causing the engine to cool down? Shouldn't the thermostat be controlling this thing?

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Carb. Recently tuned using genuine carb repair kit. Forgive me for my ignorance but how does unburnt petrol causing the engine to cool down? Shouldn't the thermostat be controlling this thing?

Sorry Trinity, I was only commenting on one symptom. What you described very rarely happens on EFi hence my question because the ECU will just make the mixture lean.

Probably the fuel is not being burnt off because the engine isn't running warm enough.

The question is why. Are your fans running direct or are they being properly regulatd by the fan thermostat and relay?

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Sorry Trinity, I was only commenting on one symptom. What you described very rarely happens on EFi hence my question because the ECU will just make the mixture lean.

Probably the fuel is not being burnt off because the engine isn't running warm enough.

The question is why. Are your fans running direct or are they being properly regulatd by the fan thermostat and relay?

No worries Don. Thank you for taking interest in this.

How to determine whether the fans run directly or not? I'm sorry again I'm not helping much here. Still learning.

I'm sure Davy knows the answer for this, he knows my car more than I do. Davy please help.

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Fans should not come on as soo ans you start the engine unless AC is on.

try this tomorrow morning, get up early... :)

Start the car. open the hood, let it idle and see how long the car takes to come to normal operating temp. Then wait for the radiator fan to come on. It should come on about 5-10 mins of idling on a cold morning, if it is starting way too early, it could mean your stat is opening earlier. Or some other electrical glitch.

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No worries Don. Thank you for taking interest in this. How to determine whether the fans run directly or not? I'm sorry again I'm not helping much here. Still learning. I'm sure Davy knows the answer for this, he knows my car more than I do. Davy please help.

Try what VVTi has suggested.

The problem might be the way your AC circuit is wired. Basically when the AC is on normally both fans would come on automatically. The engine should compensate using the thermostat by stopping the flow of water. So the extra cooling provided is compensated.

This is normally only an issue at dusk and at night when its colder. Try running without AC at night and see if the situation improved.

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Carb. Recently tuned using genuine carb repair kit. Forgive me for my ignorance but how does unburnt petrol causing the engine to cool down? Shouldn't the thermostat be controlling this thing?

The Don is correct. A rich mixture would cause the engine to run at a lower temperature (If you use a color tune kit you would notice a yellowish/reddish flame inside the cylinder not the expected bluish flame). Your car is a CS1 with a 4G13A engine and a variable venturi carb (bothal carb) am I right?

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Fans should not come on as soo ans you start the engine unless AC is on.

try this tomorrow morning, get up early... :)

Start the car. open the hood, let it idle and see how long the car takes to come to normal operating temp. Then wait for the radiator fan to come on. It should come on about 5-10 mins of idling on a cold morning, if it is starting way too early, it could mean your stat is opening earlier. Or some other electrical glitch.

Couldn't do it.. :(

Although i was late, i rushed to the car as soon as i got up and started it. kept it idling about 10 minutes. Gauge reached just up to the quarter mark, but the fans did not kick in yet. I could not wait more as i was so darn late already. Since we have fingering machines at office now, cant get late like the good old days.

I will check this again tomorrow and update you.. :)

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The Don is correct. A rich mixture would cause the engine to run at a lower temperature (If you use a color tune kit you would notice a yellowish/reddish flame inside the cylinder not the expected bluish flame). Your car is a CS1 with a 4G13A engine and a variable venturi carb (bothal carb) am I right?

Yes you are right machan.

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Yes you are right machan.

Ok. In that case while observing (again!) for what VVTi had asked above, at the cold start, note the idle speed (just to confirm that your auto choke is working. There are two coolant lines connected to it. Check if the coolant flow is OK by feeling the choke body for temp rise after starting the engine) and it should come down to a stable value afterwards. Also check if you have a cooling fan motor control unit (It is a black color square unit installed on the fan itself with fan connector plugged in. I don't think you have it). What were your ECO test readings last time? Was it before or after rebuilt of the carb? You seem to be having two separate issues with adjustment of the carb and the cooling system.

Edited by Rumesh88
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Sorry trinity I just saw this, replying while reading the others' posts. A quick answer to whether the fans are wired directly or not is that they are not directly wired. The fans are controlled by a two speed fan controller module.

Will comment as I read the rest.

EDIT:

I believe VVTi, The Don and Rumesh88 have guided you in the correct direction already, so follow up on the cold start behaviour first and how long the fans take to kick in.

Last time I checked, trinity's fans kicked in as soon as the AC came on, better make sure that this is the case still as The Don has said.

My guess is that the ignition noise is something totally unrelated to the temperature issue. The ignition timing might be too low. Did our Dissanayake adjust your distributor when he did the tune-up and carb re-build?

Also, were the drive belts replaced/tightened recently?

Edited by Davy
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Couldn't do it.. :(

Although i was late, i rushed to the car as soon as i got up and started it. kept it idling about 10 minutes. Gauge reached just up to the quarter mark, but the fans did not kick in yet. I could not wait more as i was so darn late already.

Since we have fingering machines at office now, cant get late like the good old days.

I will check this again tomorrow and update you.. :)

I did tell you to get up early. :)

....and this fingering machine at your office... how does the ladies feel about it? Tell us more and elaborate pls. :)

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I did tell you to get up early. :)

....and this fingering machine at your office... how does the ladies feel about it? Tell us more and elaborate pls. :)

Finally managed to do it today. At the cold start it took 25 minutes to fans to kick in. At that point temp gauge was just a little above the quarter mark.

In a cold evening I ran without ac and found that temp rises to the half way mark without any issue. It's when I run with ac on that it doesn't do up in cold environment.

So the test results are,

1. In cold start it takes 25 minutes to fans to kick in with ac switched off. This happens when the temp gauge is just over quarter point.

2. In cold start if the car was driven about 3 kms during morning or day time, temp gauge comes up to the half way point quickly & maintain steadily without any issue.

3. In cold start even if the car was driven over 30kms in any traffic condition during night time or in cold weather, temp gauge does not go over quarter point and car performs weirdly. This is with ac on.

4. If the no 3 was done without AC temp gauge comes up to the halfway point quickly and car performs well.

Pleased to have your thoughts on the above scenarios guys.

VVTi, about the fingering machine, well let's just say we have to finger it as soon as we CAME. As for ladies, sorry to disappoint you man, there's no females at out place. Boys only.

Finally there's someone negative repping VVTis posts without any reason. You are a f**king retard! If you have something against him just be a man and say it out loud without going all girly like this.

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Finally there's someone negative repping VVTis posts without any reason. You are a f**king retard! If you have something against him just be a man and say it out loud without going all girly like this.

Real men don't care about 'negative repping' on posts...

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Also, were the drive belts replaced/tightened recently?

Davy, would this have a drastic impact on a/c, engine cooling system behavior? (not hijacking the thread, and thanking all for the very informative info here)

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Real men don't care about 'negative repping' on posts...

I believe in a forum, the given repping system should serve it's intended purpose. For example, you have over 1400 posts under your handle and if someone started negative repping your posts for no reason, your member reputation will indicate as bad and new members could see you as an unreliable source. Same goes for the repping up as well.

In that context I don't like people using this system to mislead other members in the forum.

Oh btw thank you for the tip about real men too.

Edited by trinity
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