Engine Produce Sound After Engine Oil Change To Different Grade

buddikat · March 17, 2015

Hello,

I have Nissan March AK-12 (YOM 2007) and currently done 72k. Recently I have noticed when I start it (cold start) engine running with bit rough sound and after engine running few minutes that sound decreasing gradually. I suspect that due to the engine oil that it used and I have checked with the service agents. They used 20W-50 Castrol GTX oil which is not recommended for AK-12 as per the manual. Couple of days back I have taken my car to have the regular service and I asked them the issue I had and use a lower viscosity engine oil. This time they used 5W-30 Castrol GTX mineral oil for my engine.

After service is done I travelled 500km ride and noticed the engine sound is bit increased than previous and when I accelerate it produce a sound coming from beat silencer. I visually checked under the bonnet and there were no any suspicious remark like oil leakage.

I’m so worried about this and I’m clueless about this. Is this happened due to oil change or any other reason? Does it want to flush the engine before use different grade oil?

Car engine model - CR12DE

Recommended engine oil – 0W-20

Thanks,

Buddika

The Don · March 17, 2015

Sounds like a beat silencer?

Can't it be a simple case of a leak from the exhaust system (exhaust manifold, pipes, links, catalytic convertor and back box)?

Amila_Silva · March 17, 2015

Well, I don't have direct experience regarding an issue like this but an year ago I tried to find out the best engine oil grade to put into my car. Even confused whether to put synthetic oil. So I ended up by purchasing an owners manual of the vehicle model from Ebay.

According to the owners manual, the grade of the engine oil differs according to the ambient temperature.

So for the tropical countries like ours they have recommended something like 10W - 40 (As far as I could remember but not sure though. I'll check and update the post later) and I have been using 15W - 40 grade oil (Mobil Multigrade) from the day I purchased the vehicle. So I decided to keep it that way and the engine never had problems with that oil.

From where did you find out that 0W-20 is the correct grade for your engine? Is it from the owners manual of the car or from a blog / forum in the internet?

Kavvz · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 1:49 AM, buddikat said:
Hello,
I have Nissan March AK-12 (YOM 2007) and currently done 72k. Recently I have noticed when I start it (cold start) engine running with bit rough sound and after engine running few minutes that sound decreasing gradually. I suspect that due to the engine oil that it used and I have checked with the service agents. They used 20W-50 Castrol GTX oil which is not recommended for AK-12 as per the manual. Couple of days back I have taken my car to have the regular service and I asked them the issue I had and use a lower viscosity engine oil. This time they used 5W-30 Castrol GTX mineral oil for my engine.

After service is done I travelled 500km ride and noticed the engine sound is bit increased than previous and when I accelerate it produce a sound coming from beat silencer. I visually checked under the bonnet and there were no any suspicious remark like oil leakage.

I’m so worried about this and I’m clueless about this. Is this happened due to oil change or any other reason? Does it want to flush the engine before use different grade oil?

Car engine model - CR12DE

Recommended engine oil – 0W-20

Thanks,

Buddika

20w-50 is a pretty heavy oil, and I doubt that's the correct oil for your car.

Usually petrol cars use a oil with a viscosity of 30. (0w-20 seems like it'll be too light as well.) I'd check the manual for the recommended grade and unless it specifically states a viscosity of 20 I'd stick with an oil with an oil that has a viscosity of 30 if I were you.

Splat · March 17, 2015

Oh.. dear, Please don't feel worried. Think positive and I'm sure some one will be able to help you out .

The distance between the piston and the cylinder wall is called " piston to cylinder wall clearance " What I know is that engines that are still new have a very very small gap between the piston ring and the piston sleeve (cylinder wall) as they have not got wasted yet [ the gap is in micrometers ] . so a low viscosity (thin) oil is able to spread through the small gap to reduce friction (lubrication). as time passes due to ware and tare the gap increases so a thicker oil is used. after years and years and putting on km's but you have a long long long way to go for that .

Flushing engine oil is not a good idea as the detergent's may cause problems with gaskets and seals so please be cautious.

Edited March 17, 2015 by Splat

Kavvz · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 3:50 AM, Amila_Silva said:
Well, I don't have direct experience regarding an issue like this but an year ago I tried to find out the best engine oil grade to put into my car. Even confused whether to put synthetic oil. So I ended up by purchasing an owners manual of the vehicle model from Ebay.
According to the owners manual, the grade of the engine oil differs according to the ambient temperature.

So for the tropical countries like ours they have recommended something like 10W - 40 (As far as I could remember but not sure though. I'll check and update the post later) and I have been using 15W - 40 grade oil (Mobil Multigrade) from the day I purchased the vehicle. So I decided to keep it that way and the engine never had problems with that oil.

From where did you find out that 0W-20 is the correct grade for your engine? Is it from the owners manual of the car or from a blog / forum in the internet?

For tropical countries like ours the first value (ending in W) can be ignored. That just states that the oil will remain at the same viscosity until that temperature Celsius. For example 15w-40 grade = a viscosity of 40 between 15 celsius and 100 celsius. So ignore the first value and focus on the latter for Sri Lanka.

Therefore 15w-40 and 10w-40 equal the same viscosity = same grade of oil for Sri Lankan / tropical climates.

hrm · March 17, 2015

For small 3 cylinder petrol engines most of the time engine oil would be 10W30 or 15W30.

Crosswind · March 17, 2015

If the agent suspected excessive engine wear, they would use 20W-50 or 10W-50 that's ok. Your 72k could have been clocked.

I have this feeling the sound is actually coming from the timing chain or one of the adjusters, because it goes away once the engine heats up (due to expansion of metal). Are you sure its coming from the engine itself and not the alternator, a belt, AC compressor or any other component?

buddikat · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 3:50 AM, Amila_Silva said:
Well, I don't have direct experience regarding an issue like this but an year ago I tried to find out the best engine oil grade to put into my car. Even confused whether to put synthetic oil. So I ended up by purchasing an owners manual of the vehicle model from Ebay.
According to the owners manual, the grade of the engine oil differs according to the ambient temperature.

So for the tropical countries like ours they have recommended something like 10W - 40 (As far as I could remember but not sure though. I'll check and update the post later) and I have been using 15W - 40 grade oil (Mobil Multigrade) from the day I purchased the vehicle. So I decided to keep it that way and the engine never had problems with that oil.

From where did you find out that 0W-20 is the correct grade for your engine? Is it from the owners manual of the car or from a blog / forum in the internet?

I requested the recommended details directly from Nissan customer care center

On 3/17/2015 at 4:15 AM, Kavvz said:
20w-50 is a pretty heavy oil, and I doubt that's the correct oil for your car.
Usually petrol cars use a oil with a viscosity of 30. (0w-20 seems like it'll be too light as well.) I'd check the manual for the recommended grade and unless it specifically states a viscosity of 20 I'd stick with an oil with an oil that has a viscosity of 30 if I were you.

Yeah. I suspect that was caused for my first issue. That's why I decided to go with 30 By referring most of blogs/threads.

On 3/17/2015 at 4:16 AM, Splat said:
Oh.. dear, Please don't feel worried. Think positive and I'm sure some one will be able to help you out .
The distance between the piston and the cylinder wall is called " piston to cylinder wall clearance " What I know is that engines that are still new have a very very small gap between the piston ring and the piston sleeve (cylinder wall) as they have not got wasted yet [ the gap is in micrometers ] . so a low viscosity (thin) oil is able to spread through the small gap to reduce friction (lubrication). as time passes due to ware and tare the gap increases so a thicker oil is used. after years and years and putting on km's but you have a long long long way to go for that .

Flushing engine oil is not a good idea as the detergent's may cause problems with gaskets and seals so please be cautious.

Thank you for the advice.

On 3/17/2015 at 4:18 AM, Kavvz said:
For tropical countries like ours the first value (ending in W) can be ignored. That just states that the oil will remain at the same viscosity until that temperature Celsius. For example 15w-40 grade = a viscosity of 40 between 15 celsius and 100 celsius. So ignore the first value and focus on the latter for Sri Lanka.
Therefore 15w-40 and 10w-40 equal the same viscosity = same grade of oil for Sri Lankan / tropical climates.

Thanks mates for your kind helps regarding this. I feel the thing I did was not bad. But my doubt is the sound that produced after recent service. They replaced oil filter (as normally in regular service), air filter (That was pretty dusty) and oil change.

GayanR · March 17, 2015

Are you sure about the 72k mark?Anyway first start with simple things like checking the fuel pressure changing the fuel filter,air filter and doing a tune up.Check for any vacuum leaks or gasket leaks.Do a compression test won't cost a lot.Also check ecu for any sensor failures.

GayanR · March 17, 2015

.

Edited March 17, 2015 by GayanR

GayanR · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 5:18 AM, Crosswind said:
If the agent suspected excessive engine wear, they would use 20W-50 or 10W-50 that's ok. Your 72k could have been clocked.
I have this feeling the sound is actually coming from the timing chain or one of the adjusters, because it goes away once the engine heats up (due to expansion of metal). Are you sure its coming from the engine itself and not the alternator, a belt, AC compressor or any other component?

This.First on cold start open your bonnet hear and check exactly from where the sound is coming from.I can remember in my previous fb14 there was a noise like this on cold start.Some garages wanted me to change the head gasket

also.Turns out to be a bad radiator fan bearing.

buddikat · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 5:18 AM, Crosswind said:
If the agent suspected excessive engine wear, they would use 20W-50 or 10W-50 that's ok. Your 72k could have been clocked.
I have this feeling the sound is actually coming from the timing chain or one of the adjusters, because it goes away once the engine heats up (due to expansion of metal). Are you sure its coming from the engine itself and not the alternator, a belt, AC compressor or any other component?

Previous time, yes when engine runs some times the sound gone away. But this time the sound keeps... Yeah sound is coming from the engine, seems others are ok

buddikat · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 5:21 AM, GayanR said:
Are you sure about the 72k mark?Anyway first start with simple things like checking the fuel pressure changing the fuel filter,air filter and doing a tune up.Check for any vacuum leaks or gasket leaks.Do a compression test won't cost a lot.Also check ecu for any sensor failures.

On 3/17/2015 at 5:28 AM, GayanR said:
This.First on cold start open your bonnet hear and check exactly from where the sound is coming from.I can remember in my previous fb14 there was a noise like this on cold start.Some garages wanted me to change the head gasket
also.Turns out to be a bad radiator fan bearing.

Yeah mate. . I honour to my car. Mmm... that means I need to contact the service agent. Thanks for your advice

Edited March 17, 2015 by buddikat

Rumesh88 · March 17, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 1:49 AM, buddikat said:
Hello,
I have Nissan March AK-12 (YOM 2007) and currently done 72k. Recently I have noticed when I start it (cold start) engine running with bit rough sound and after engine running few minutes that sound decreasing gradually. I suspect that due to the engine oil that it used and I have checked with the service agents. They used 20W-50 Castrol GTX oil which is not recommended for AK-12 as per the manual. Couple of days back I have taken my car to have the regular service and I asked them the issue I had and use a lower viscosity engine oil. This time they used 5W-30 Castrol GTX mineral oil for my engine.

After service is done I travelled 500km ride and noticed the engine sound is bit increased than previous and when I accelerate it produce a sound coming from beat silencer. I visually checked under the bonnet and there were no any suspicious remark like oil leakage.

I’m so worried about this and I’m clueless about this. Is this happened due to oil change or any other reason? Does it want to flush the engine before use different grade oil?

Car engine model - CR12DE

Recommended engine oil – 0W-20

Thanks,

Buddika

If your mileage is genuine and the car has been regularly serviced over the years, 20W-50 could be a wee bit heavy but that factor alone should not cause a problem when you change to a lesser viscous oil. IMO your problem may not be related directly to oil viscosity. You say that this rough sound was there even before the recent oil change. Does your engine rev up automatically and then settle down to its running idle speed at cold start? Does it sound like a noise from a chain?

Rumesh88 · March 18, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 11:46 AM, The Don said:
Sounds like a beat silencer?
Can't it be a simple case of a leak from the exhaust system (exhaust manifold, pipes, links, catalytic convertor and back box)?

I missed/misunderstood the beat silencer part. In this case my verdict is that the problem is with a stretched timing chain (and/or bad tensioner) causing the valve timing to retard. In this case, however, you would get a CEL, indicating a cam sensor fault at least intermittently? Is the CEL indicator working? (Prompted to ask this question 'cos I came across a car which was repaired by a makabass by disabling the CEL).

Edited March 18, 2015 by Rumesh88

buddikat · March 18, 2015

On 3/17/2015 at 11:46 AM, The Don said:
Sounds like a beat silencer?
Can't it be a simple case of a leak from the exhaust system (exhaust manifold, pipes, links, catalytic convertor and back box)?

On 3/18/2015 at 3:32 AM, Rumesh88 said:
I missed/misunderstood the beat silencer part. In this case my verdict is that the problem is with a stretched timing chain (and/or bad tensioner) causing the valve timing to retard. In this case, however, you would get a CEL, indicating a cam sensor fault at least intermittently? Is the CEL indicator working? (Prompted to ask this question 'cos I came across a car which was repaired by a makabass by disabling the CEL).

Checked the car today morning and yes it was bloody crack on silencer joint. . Taken to Elcardo, Nawala as per recommendation and they welded that. Now its OK. Thanks for the help and advises given everyone.

Rumesh88 · March 18, 2015

On 3/18/2015 at 7:27 AM, buddikat said:
Checked the car today morning and yes it was bloody crack on silencer joint. . Taken to Elcardo, Nawala as per recommendation and they welded that. Now its OK. Thanks for the help and advises given everyone.

Oo! The Don was right then . Simple things first!!