Starter Motor Failing - Mitsubishi L200

[andunslg]

One day my brother was driving my L200 1999 2 Wheel and it got stopped suddenly because he lost the clutch balance. After that when we hit the ignition, nothing happened. Only a "TIK" sounds comes up. We thought the starter motor was jammed and after hitting it few times smoothly, it worked.

Another day same happens. But that time issue was there very long.

Thus I went to a motor repair person. He inspected the starter motor, disengaging clutch. His guess was, motor's brushes lost its contact. Thus he did a service to the motor by cleaning the contacts and all the other parts. After that it was OK.

Today again same thing happens two times. "TIK" noise and no ignition. But without hitting the motor it worked the 2nd or 3rd ignition.

Do I need to look at other issue?

Thanks

Andun

 

[andunslg]

Yep it was solenoid! And replaced it!

[Davy]

The click sound means the solenoid is being engaged. It's just that the motor doesn't spin when it does.

If the contacts are also properly secured, the only other reason I can think of why the motor doesn't spin is because the solenoid doesn't send positive power to the motor. This can be because the contacts inside the solenoid are faulty. There is switching mechanism at the back of the solenoid that sends power to the motor when the key in the "START" position. This needs to be checked.

[MV-5]

This sound is closer to "CLIK" than "TIK" , then it is the starter solenoid, which is a part of the starter and can be replaced without replacing the starter motor. this works as a relay, it connects the battery and the starter motor directly when the relay got the signal from the ignition key.

Edited September 5, 2016 by MV-5

[Davy]

Whenever I see a post related to L200, I know it's this guy.  Asking to stick to one thread doesn't seem to be working.

First of all, what's the duration between the first and second incidents?

If your starter motor was serviced and repaired properly, one other reason for the motor to not spin is because of improper connections between the battery and starter. Check if if both positive and ground connections to the starter are okay (starting from the battery terminals all the way to the motor).

[andunslg]

Sry If I spammed the forum. I thought that high-level categories are more important than the user or the vehicle. That's why I split. the questions to different threads.

According to http://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-the-starting-system-works to solenoid act as a relay. The "CLICK" sound is the relay on sound. I checked the battery wires. They are properly contacted.

I saw that brushes are properly contacted. Thus I guess the solenoid's main switch contact point are week to pass the current. Can that be the case? If so we need to replace it right?

This happens between two months.

[hrm]

We had a similar issue in our old Nissan cab sometime ago. There I can start it normally when engine is cold but could not start if it's warm. Only a click sound come and has to wait for engine to cool down a bit to start. It was traced to solenoid too.

[MV-5]

On 9/6/2016 at 9:49 AM, Davy said:

The click sound means the solenoid is being engaged. It's just that the motor doesn't spin when it does.

If the contacts are also properly secured, the only other reason I can think of why the motor doesn't spin is because the solenoid doesn't send positive power to the motor. This can be because the contacts inside the solenoid are faulty. There is switching mechanism at the back of the solenoid that sends power to the motor when the key in the "START" position. This needs to be checked.

Yes , exactly, if first attempt it just make the "click" sound and in the second or third attempt if motor spins, 99% it is bad solenoid.

Edited September 8, 2016 by MV-5

[MV-5]

1 hour ago, Twin Turbo said:

Here's a guaranteed solution to the complex ed prob, Why not get a new starter?

why don't you suggest to buy a new vehicle?

[Rohnd]

There are several reasons contribute to this,

1. Wiring problem (poor connections in middle connectors/ dirty connectors etc)

2. Solenoid issue ( mostly mechanical linkages associated,armature bush wear)

3. Motor issue ( dirty commutator/motor & wear in the brushes)

4. Ignition/starter switch problem (low ohm resistance instead of  near zero at Start position)

All above conditions provide not enough current  being produced to the Solenoid for real operation.

The Isolation of the problem cause may be difficult. For example, if 1 or 4 persist , replacing of whole motor with the solenoid does not help. 

 

 

 

 

[Twin Turbo]

+

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 9, 2016 by Twin Turbo