Project A72V

[varotone]

47 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

Out of curiosity, what's the mileage shown on the odometer?

17,346.3 to be precise. It has only 5 digits. I wonder how many times it could have hit 99,999.9 (Or how many times it was reversed) ?

[Davy]

6 hours ago, varotone said:

17,346.3 to be precise. It has only 5 digits. I wonder how many times it could have hit 99,999.9 (Or how many times it was reversed) ?

Mine cycled twice during the 13 years of ownership.

It's pointless worrying about the mileage of a 40 year old car which you've purchased to restore. You're eventually going to strip out the engine for overhaul anyway. 

8 hours ago, varotone said:

BTW, where can I find connector terminals?

From a salvage yard if you want to find the exact connectors. You can substitute it with aftermarket ones if you're unable to find originals. From experience, most Japanese connectors follow similar design, so you should be able to find matching ones. Auto Electrics shops in Panchikawatte should be having them. 

Edited November 6, 2018 by Davy
Added more content

[varotone]

Some electronics shops have new terminals. But they don't fit mine. They look flimsy too. If I'm buying them, I'll have to get both male and female ones. Thanks for the info. I'll look at Japanese reconditioned parts shops.

I'm not at all worried about the milage. It would be nice to know how many times the car could have traveled back and forth to the moon!?

[Hyaenidae]

15 hours ago, Davy said:

Mine cycled twice during the 13 years of ownership.

It's pointless worrying about the mileage of a 40 year old car which you've purchased to restore. You're eventually going to strip out the engine for overhaul anyway. 

2

OFC but wouldn't it be awesome if it had 6 digits and recorded the correct mileage... 

[varotone]

UPDATES

Our garages are notorious for cutting the wiring just because they are too lazy to properly remove them. Mine has also suffered the same damage. Instead of buying a reconditioned harness, I decided to restore it myself. I spliced one connection today. Here's the steps briefly.

1. Clean the area. You'll see the color coded wires, any damages well, and helps the solder and insulation tapes to stick well.

2. Figure out which wires go where. Note it down in a paper or label the wires with masking tape

3. Cut the frayed ends and strip the insulation.

4. Tin the wire ends. (Tinning means to coat the wire with soldering lead)

5. Slip in a piece of heat shrink tubing

6. Solder the ends.

7. Cover the splice with the heat shrink tubing. Heat it up.

8. Wra the wires with insulation tape. Remember this insulation tape is not actually meant to insulate the wires. The heat shrink sleeve should do the insulation. Wrap the insulation tape to keep the wires organized and tidy.

9. Check the resistance across the splice and for short circuits with nearby wires.

Here's how the damage before repair.

This is the result

 

[varotone]

A very big thank you to @Davy for buying a Haynes manual for me. When I mentioned that I want to buy a workshop manual, he was very helpful in dropping me a PM about this manual being up for sale and offered to buy it for me. He even said that I can pay after I had received it! Davy is by far the most helpful person that I have met online. Sir, I don't know how to thank you enough for this favor.

It's an unused Haynes manual. If anyone needs a photo copy, drop me a PM.

 

[varotone]

The manual describes some features like 'hold speed function' a rudimentary cruise control, seat belt warning chime, high speed warning chime, EGR, shock absorbing buffer attachments, and door open light. Are these features available in this particular one? YOM 1983 JDM version.

Lookslike the Japanese automotive technology had achieved everything in that era (looks like today's cars just throwed in a bunch of electronics to just complicate an already existing, simple setup)

[Davy]

On 11/9/2018 at 9:43 PM, varotone said:

Sir, I don't know how to thank you enough for this favor.

No worries at all. Glad I could help.

2 hours ago, varotone said:

The manual describes some features like 'hold speed function' a rudimentary cruise control, seat belt warning chime, high speed warning chime, EGR, shock absorbing buffer attachments, and door open light. Are these features available in this particular one? YOM 1983 JDM version.

The door open light is standard I'm pretty sure. Yours should be having it as well. High speed warning chime as well (mine was activated at 110 km/h. Sounded like a Xylophone. Just two notes that sounded sort of like a doorbell ) 

I think the shock absorbing bumper is a safety feature that was mandatory at the time in some markets like the US and Australia. I have seen this attachment in some A72 Lancers in Sri Lanka as well. It makes the bumpers stick out than normal, so ruins the look of the car a little. 

[varotone]

UPDATES

Took apart the steering wheel and tried to fix the butchered wiring. Managed to get the switches working except for the PASS switch. So, I'm thinking about buying the whole switch stalk assembly.

Shopping list:

1. Hazard light relay

2. Connector for hazard light relay

3. Headlight relay

4. Connector for headlight relay

5. Switch stalk assembly

Appreciate if you could tell me where to find these and the approximate cost.

 

There's a light named DOOR in the dash. But the slot for the bulb is sealed from outside. There are switches in the door jambs. But the wires are missing.

EDIT:

Looked around for the switch assembly. Came across 2 reconditioned ones. None of them had all the switches functional. So don't buy it. Next would be to look in panchi or delkanda.

Edited November 12, 2018 by varotone
Added

[varotone]

UPDATES

Finally managed to restore the switch assembly on the steering wheel. Rear wire harness was restored. Had to replace the wires to the door switches. Switches themselves were working. Took longer than expected to undo all the thoughtless butchering by the previous owner. Next up is the front wiring.

 

HELP NEEDED

Can anybody identify what this is? It has two tubes and two wires connected. 

[Davy]

2 hours ago, varotone said:

HELP NEEDED

Can anybody identify what this is? It has two tubes and two wires connected. 

It's called a Vacuum Solenoid Valve or commonly referred to as the "Idle Up Valve". 

The purpose of the valve is to keep the idle RPM of the engine stable when the AC kicks in. The power line that goes into it is connected to the AC compressor trigger. So at the same time the compressor receives power, the valve activates and allows the engine to idle properly (due to the change in vacuum), compensating for the load generated by the compressor. 

[Twin Turbo]

Q: does the idle speed increase when the compressor is running?

 

[varotone]

14 hours ago, Davy said:

It's called a Vacuum Solenoid Valve or commonly referred to as the "Idle Up Valve". 

The purpose of the valve is to keep the idle RPM of the engine stable when the AC kicks in. The power line that goes into it is connected to the AC compressor trigger. So at the same time the compressor receives power, the valve activates and allows the engine to idle properly (due to the change in vacuum), compensating for the load generated by the compressor. 

Thanks for the detailed and quick reply!

4 hours ago, Twin Turbo said:

Q: does the idle speed increase when the compressor is running?

 

Not when I bought the car. It used to stall when I kept the engine on idle and switched on the AC. Now the engine revs up a little when AC is on and the car no longer stalls.

[varotone]

HELP NEEDED

The headlight (both the low and high beam) pulls power directly from the fuse box. Both are wired with a 20 SAE wire without a relay. A pair of 50W bubs exceeds the maximum rated current (8 A) when wired this way. This worries me. Besides, the schematics in the Haynes manual shows wiring through a relay. Can anyone please tell how was it wired originally?

(Wiring schematics given in the Haynes manual differs a little from what is in my car. So, I can't follow the manual to the letter. I'm currently drawing the schematics as found in my car)

 

Afterthought

Are there kits to replace the sealed beam headlight with an LED one? Switching to LED would pull lesser power.

Edited November 27, 2018 by varotone
added content

[Davy]

9 hours ago, varotone said:

The headlight (both the low and high beam) pulls power directly from the fuse box. Both are wired with a 20 SAE wire without a relay. A pair of 50W bubs exceeds the maximum rated current (8 A) when wired this way. This worries me. Besides, the schematics in the Haynes manual shows wiring through a relay. Can anyone please tell how was it wired originally?

Yes, wired through two relays that are secured to the chassis behind the dashboard, behind the right most AC vent. 

 

9 hours ago, varotone said:

Are there kits to replace the sealed beam headlight with an LED one? 

Yes. I've seen many options. Also HID. 

[Twin Turbo]

Upgrading the sealed beams will be good in many ways,.. reducing the load on the electrical system and having more light output ect,.

 But be warned of the local law of lighting mods.  as you might be caught for infringement of it.

Going with the mods, you might wanna invest in the rest of the car's bulbs in LED.  - (easily souursed through the net.)

 

Edited November 28, 2018 by Twin Turbo

[varotone]

Was it one relay for both high beams and another for both low  beams?

The wires supplying the headlights itself is too thin IMO. So, even if there was a relay in the dash, there would be a significant voltage drop at the connector for headlight. A relay right behind the headlights would work. The wiring for headlights doesn't look like it was hacked. I still wonder if this particular car didn't have a relay.

 

Bulbs are consumables. So I'll have to replace them at some point when they are blown. Sealed beams are old and may be difficult to find in the future. A cooler (reddish) LED would have the vintage appearance while being easy to find spares for. I'm not thinking about lights so bright that blind the on coming traffic. Hope the cops won't be bothered.

[varotone]

ADVICE NEEDED

After a thorough inspection, my conclusion is that this particular car did not have a factory fitted headlight relay. (I find it difficult to believe, but still, I'm convinced that the wiring was not hacked to that extent). I plan to fit one of those "headlights upgrade wiring kit" made for LED/Halogen ones and fix the existing sealed beam ones for now. The plan is to upgrade to a cooler color LED or halogens later to keep the vintage appearance and easy serviceability later after the tinkering and painting.

Appreciate the input from the AL "Light fetish club" @tiv @PreseaLover @Magnum before I go ahead with the purchase and modifications.

[PreseaLover]

3 hours ago, varotone said:

ADVICE NEEDED

After a thorough inspection, my conclusion is that this particular car did not have a factory fitted headlight relay. (I find it difficult to believe, but still, I'm convinced that the wiring was not hacked to that extent). I plan to fit one of those "headlights upgrade wiring kit" made for LED/Halogen ones and fix the existing sealed beam ones for now. The plan is to upgrade to a cooler color LED or halogens later to keep the vintage appearance and easy serviceability later after the tinkering and painting.

Appreciate the input from the AL "Light fetish club" @tiv @PreseaLover @Magnum before I go ahead with the purchase and modifications.

why don't you go for nightbreakers instead? 

[Hoonigan]

7 hours ago, varotone said:

ADVICE NEEDED

After a thorough inspection, my conclusion is that this particular car did not have a factory fitted headlight relay. (I find it difficult to believe, but still, I'm convinced that the wiring was not hacked to that extent). I plan to fit one of those "headlights upgrade wiring kit" made for LED/Halogen ones and fix the existing sealed beam ones for now. The plan is to upgrade to a cooler color LED or halogens later to keep the vintage appearance and easy serviceability later after the tinkering and painting.

Appreciate the input from the AL "Light fetish club" @tiv @PreseaLover @Magnum before I go ahead with the purchase and modifications.

If I remember right, what we did with the Capri is to wire a set of sealed beams through relays can't remember how many but I believe it was just one relay. the objective was to have lights without frying the wiring. Unless you're going for an absolute, no-compromise concourse restoration, the sensible thing would be to wire up new lights with relays. 

I used a set of LEDs (the kinds with the fan attached) in the headlights on one of my bikes. The light output is great and has way less strain on the battery. The light is white so they are legal. As long as the LEDs you plan to use are yellow or white, cops won't bother you. And personally I think red would be a tad too much. 

[varotone]

Thanks for the input gentlemen.

Osram nightbreakers looks awesome from the photos. Browsed through the products and found all of them are in the 5000-6000K color temperature. The bluish light will not give the age appropriate looks for the car. Something more towards red in the spectrum (around 3000K color temperature) would be more suitable.

Wire and relay upgrade kit costs around RS. 2000. So, I'm planning on buying one. I do want a perfect restoration without cutting corners. For now I'll fix the same old sealed beam halogens wired through the relay. When money fairy visits me again I'll upgrade to a LED/Xenon one. Investing on a conversation kit would be well worth the money in the long run.

I was referring to the reddish, filament bulb like color when I said red color bulbs. The color is also called warm but in fact it is a cooler color because it corresponds to black body radiation at 3000K. The bluish ones like the night breakers corresponds to 6000K. A much warmer back body. I'm sorry if I caused some confusion by calling a color 'cool'. (Excuse the geek in me ?) I'm pretty sure Sri Lanka doesn't regulate the color temperature of the headlights. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 

[tiv]

12 hours ago, varotone said:

ADVICE NEEDED

After a thorough inspection, my conclusion is that this particular car did not have a factory fitted headlight relay. (I find it difficult to believe, but still, I'm convinced that the wiring was not hacked to that extent). I plan to fit one of those "headlights upgrade wiring kit" made for LED/Halogen ones and fix the existing sealed beam ones for now. The plan is to upgrade to a cooler color LED or halogens later to keep the vintage appearance and easy serviceability later after the tinkering and painting.

Appreciate the input from the AL "Light fetish club" @tiv @PreseaLover @Magnum before I go ahead with the purchase and modifications.

Just saw this post, kinda hammered, pre friday night you know, let me get back to you asap tmrw morning

Edited November 29, 2018 by tiv

[Magnum]

double post

Edited December 3, 2018 by Magnum

[Magnum]

12 hours ago, varotone said:

Thanks for the input gentlemen.

Osram nightbreakers looks awesome from the photos. Browsed through the products and found all of them are in the 5000-6000K color temperature. The bluish light will not give the age appropriate looks for the car. Something more towards red in the spectrum (around 3000K color temperature) would be more suitable.

Wire and relay upgrade kit costs around RS. 2000. So, I'm planning on buying one. I do want a perfect restoration without cutting corners. For now I'll fix the same old sealed beam halogens wired through the relay. When money fairy visits me again I'll upgrade to a LED/Xenon one. Investing on a conversation kit would be well worth the money in the long run.

I was referring to the reddish, filament bulb like color when I said red color bulbs. The color is also called warm but in fact it is a cooler color because it corresponds to black body radiation at 3000K. The bluish ones like the night breakers corresponds to 6000K. A much warmer back body. I'm sorry if I caused some confusion by calling a color 'cool'. (Excuse the geek in me ?) I'm pretty sure Sri Lanka doesn't regulate the color temperature of the headlights. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 

Nightbreaker has a colour temperature of around 3900k, it's whiter than regular bulbs but yellow than OEM HID kits

The fog lamps and high beam are Nightbreaker 

[tiv]

On 11/29/2018 at 1:16 PM, varotone said:

ADVICE NEEDED

After a thorough inspection, my conclusion is that this particular car did not have a factory fitted headlight relay. (I find it difficult to believe, but still, I'm convinced that the wiring was not hacked to that extent). I plan to fit one of those "headlights upgrade wiring kit" made for LED/Halogen ones and fix the existing sealed beam ones for now. The plan is to upgrade to a cooler color LED or halogens later to keep the vintage appearance and easy serviceability later after the tinkering and painting.

Appreciate the input from the AL "Light fetish club" @tiv @PreseaLover @Magnum before I go ahead with the purchase and modifications.

As for the wiring, i'd suggest to do up the wiring new, with 2 relays one for each side, with high gauge wires and casings

Use good relays, either OEM Japanese headlight relays or Good brand new ones like Hella etc, also use a relay for parking lights

As for the seal beams, get rid of them

the first gen pajero came with a round light that was flat, not curved like the seal beams, it had a mitsubishi badge in the middle and letters halogen across etched in the glass, made by koito or stanley

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROUND-HEAD-LAMP-LIGHT-for-MITSUBISHI-PAJERO-SHOGUN-MK2-1991-1993-/380599713598 

the above is very common in shops here

then you have the capability to get the period correct upgrade, the bulb is H4

thereafter H4 you have the following options

Stick to a warm colour, so that it looks correct with the cars vintage

Standard koito bulbs or Pair of night breakers, or warm HIDs <4000K or LEDs <4000K all mounted to the H4 socket

Also sand down all grounding points and re-anchor them or you make have flickering issues or dim lights, lubricate the light stalk and connectors if they are rusty.