How Conservative Are We?

[Supra_Natural]

Well the "Are Sri Lankan Car buyers too conservative?" thread brought out some interesting viewpoints, some of which were fairly out there, but all in all it provided some very good food for thought...

Following on from that, I was recently asked by an acquaintance to recommend a Car to fit a budget of 750-800k (maximum) to be used as his main car. The potential buyer is in his 20's, enthusiastic, and looking for something that fullfills the A to B role primarily.

other conditions

1. Should have 4-doors

2. Later than 1989

3. Compact

so i did a bit of digging around the AL classifieds and the papers and such and talking to a few people, I came up with a set of choices.... some are the obvious ones while others are much less obvious..... I have solid reasoning for all the less obvious choices btw . I

So guys please vote if possible explain your choices, and help me decide.... Opinions are welcomed, and other options can also be mentioned.....

Edited December 14, 2007 by Supra_Natural

[The Don]

I think I am the first to vote !.

My choice was between the Mitsubishi Lancer and the Mazda Interplay. In fact I think you should have included the Mirage as well (the 4 dour VIE saloon version 1993-1995).

The Lancer is a very tricky option, because you need to find a certain combination of goodies to make it an attractive purchase. But the chassy on that car is very good (Evo 1-3 share the same chassy) which means the car handles quite well, little body roll and very responsive steering. And as always the car is very nippy and responsive and if you get one with a decent engine fitted on can be a very enjoyable driver (speaking relatively here obviously) as well as when driver carefully return good fuel figures. Incidentally the turbo diesel version is very very good if you can find a good example.

The Mazda interplay on the other hand has all the good characteristics of the above but is a much safer and easier option to have since you do not have to go round looking for "the right combination". The interplay also has the sportier interior rock solid engine and the drive is as good as it gets within the parameters you have provided. Parts are relatively easy to find, body parts tend to be on the more expensive side though not by much and thus it lends itself to be a sporty car which is easy on your purse.

Thus my choice is the interplay.

The Don

[GTAm]

My Choices,

1. Alfa 33 - Should be cheaper to buy compared with the rest and easily the most fun to drive by a huge margin. It's also not likely to cost you more than the others to run provided you get one in decent shape. There are loads of disadvantages though - Build quality is very bad especially the interior (a product of Alfa's dark era), It's not easy to find a good one, AC s are locally fitted etc. But I really don't see myself passing a 33 for anything else on the list. It's got a good power/weight ratio as well .

2. Really can't decide between the Interplay and the E30. I've owned both - the E30 replaced my Interplay. Funny enough I am more attached to the Mazda. It was a lot faster than my 316i (or maybe it felt faster) and while the handling wasn't great it wasn't shabby either. The short throw gear box that my car had was a joy to use. Some other Interplays I drove had longer throw boxes though. That said you can't ignore the refinement and well engineered feel of the BMW. It might accelerate slower but once you're into 3 figure speeds it feels planted on the road the way only a German car can. And there were the excellent seats too. For a long journey I'd always choose the BM over the frantic Maz.

3. No 3rd as 2 is tied

4. Grand Civic - We had a twin Carb 35X. Quite decent in a straight line and refined. The low ground clearence was a pain in the a**. The Interplay had more grip and a lot more steering feel. And the seats were hardly comfy or grippy.

I have driven the other three but will refrain from typing on my views on them as I'm certain to offend a lot of ppl

[Devinda_Z]

I feel as though a number of rather realistic (& some other questionable ) cars that fit the purchase criteria have been overlooked - the list compiled is in alphabetical order, so please do overlook those that may strike you to be out there - but I’m certain none the less that all these cars meet the requirements, regardless of whether or not they would be recommended for purchase - but they are choices worth considering none the less

Alfa 146 or even a 155 possibly?

Austin-Rover Montego

Daewoo Racer

Daihatsu Charade

Fiat Punto Mk1 ?

Ford Festiva

Ford Laser

Isuzu Gemini

Kia Pride

Maruti 800

Mazda Astina

Mazda MR 90

Nissan March K10

Nissan Pulsar

Opel Astra

Peugeot 306

Proton Saga

Proton Wira

Subaru Legacy Mk1

Suzuki Baleno

Suzuki Cultus/ Maruti Esteem

Toyota Starlet

Toyota Tercel

[dinosh]

Since i have only one vote, i used it on the BMW 316i . But the Interplay is a very good car for that price & can recomend with out hesitation since i used one (a hatchback) for a year & a half. Its hard to find either one of above which are in good condition.

But the vehicle purchased will always depend on the person & the background of him. We as enthusiasts will look for a 316i or an Interplay, but many who are not aware of these who just need a mode of transportation might settle with a FB13 or AE91. There people i know who only prefer Toyota or Nissan since they are perceived to be reliable & for economy.

[mazdaspeed]

Since I've used the Mazda Interplay - Im going to stick with it. Having said that my injectors were not firing properly as 1 was giving issues as per Mr. Alawatha, STILL she was flying - I had a very distinctive number - handling was great- however I suppose a BMW would be better in that department at high speeds.

The car had a bit of issues which was due to the previous owners neglect - but the good thing was I was not stranded on a single long journey; only when I got there did I have some trouble getting her started again.

Bias may be but defa a Mazda Interplay - has more character than the current 323 I got .

[sharkster]

voted for the interplay... never owned one let alone driven one but i think the car would probably be more economical to run than the E30 and would also hold its value to the point of flogging it in a hurry... car also has decent styling...

as much as i love the E30 AND having driven a 320i (almost died smiling on a wet road) there's only so much high speed running one would be doing in SL so its stability would play second fiddle to practicality...

though don't count out the FB13... i've owned one and it's never let me down... bloody good motor and the super saloons have excellent interiors (mine had climate control)...

Edited December 14, 2007 by sharkster

[Elvis_Pil]

Voted for the EF- as thats probably the easiest car to find spares for as the base is shared by the EG and EK. Wont go anywhere near a European car in that segment. 2nd choice would be the Interplay- used a brand new 323 which is running like new to this day, 3rd would be the Lancer after that I'd take bus.

[madmax]

Voted for the Toyota AE91. If your one and only goal is to get from point A to B then going Toyota way is the best.

I don't think there is anything else on the face of the earth as BORING as a Corolla (edit: hmm I think I was wrong here, coz I just realized the Hachi-Roku is infact a corolla, now that's not exactly boring.) , BUT it's reliable, will hold the value the most, and when you're sick of it there will be more than enough people to buy it from you!

The formula is simple

Get from point A to B =TOYOTA!

Edited December 15, 2007 by madmax

[gunat]

The formula is simple

Get from point A to B =TOYOTA!

I'll echo Max's sentiment. If its just A to B, you can't beat a Toyota- they're like the energizer bunny...keep going & going...

That said, i voted E30- as a former owner i can say a well maintained car will give Toyota equivalent service, with the added kudos of street cred. If you're mate is looking for a little <more> than just a set of wheels...this is my recommendation.

Yes, it *might be* more expensive when it comes to parts, but usually a replaced part will last the better part of 10 years...a well maintained car will be solid as long as you take care of it.

[Supra_Natural]

I'll echo Max's sentiment. If its just A to B, you can't beat a Toyota- they're like the energizer bunny...keep going & going...

That said, i voted E30- as a former owner i can say a well maintained car will give Toyota equivalent service, with the added kudos of street cred. If you're mate is looking for a little <more> than just a set of wheels...this is my recommendation.

Yes, it *might be* more expensive when it comes to parts, but usually a replaced part will last the better part of 10 years...a well maintained car will be solid as long as you take care of it.

Yeah, actually i realised that i forgot to add that my mate knows his way around cars more than the average person..... and doesn't mind the occasional repair job..

[viking]

It is interesting to see the views of our members on the subject of how SL people look at buying a car.

But in my opinion it is also very important to find out about the people who are handling a particular car in a given market. There are many good cars that come out these days from various manufacturers of diverse origins. It really does not have to be a Japanese car to be all that reliable these days. I personally feel that the Koreans are ahead in the looks department these days. If you look at some of their concept models, they are as interesting looking as some prestige European brands.

Finding a good car is one thing, but no matter how good the car is built or how well it is priced, maintenance is a very important area every car owner must consider before buying a car.

If parts and servicing is available freely, then less hassles. Of course exotic car owners do not have to worry about this as naturally they are reserved for wealthy individuals who will not mind spending the price of a small car to service it when they can afford to pay the price of a house to buy it. But for most of us who are looking to make a purchase sensibly and obviously within a budget, we must not fail to look in to the maintenance work of the car and the people who are going to be providing it for us.

There are some notorious dealerships in SL who will rip off the customer without a hesitation. The advantage with most Japanese cars is that there are many people and places out there that are capable of servicing them. But what about the rest. If you cannot find any body to attend to the maintenance work of your car out side the dealership, then you are trapped with the dealer for ever. Then starts the nasty part where the dealer dictates the maintenance costs and take you down all the way to hell.

So in this perspective, I cannot blame any body for being practicle and making their choices favouring popular brands. In my opinion, most Japanese cars are a sensible choice in SL. Hyundai and KIA is also quite popular for Korean cars and the build quality is coming in par with the Japanese now a days and you find many places and people who service them. So you should be safe with them.

As for the rest of the brands, one must be quite certain before spending as you do not want to find out you have dumped your money with the wrong people. Looks is one thing, build quality and reliability is another and servicing and maintenance is another thing all together.

Since in SL you get only one principal dealer for each brand, if you are going to be stuck with a lousy dealer, you will be much better off driving an established brand even though it may be the most boring thing to drive.

[GTAm]

I feel as though a number of rather realistic (& some other questionable ) cars that fit the purchase criteria have been overlooked - the list compiled is in alphabetical order, so please do overlook those that may strike you to be out there - but I’m certain none the less that all these cars meet the requirements, regardless of whether or not they would be recommended for purchase - but they are choices worth considering none the less

Alfa 146 or even a 155 possibly?

Austin-Rover Montego

Daewoo Racer

Daihatsu Charade

Fiat Punto Mk1 ?

Ford Festiva

Ford Laser

Isuzu Gemini

Kia Pride

Maruti 800

Mazda Astina

Mazda MR 90

Nissan March K10

Nissan Pulsar

Opel Astra

Peugeot 306

Proton Saga

Proton Wira

Subaru Legacy Mk1

Suzuki Baleno

Suzuki Cultus/ Maruti Esteem

Toyota Starlet

Toyota Tercel

Interesting list Devinda... Some of these will be well below the budget won't they? But some of the cars here I would not consider at all,

The Montego - Urrgh!!! 1275cc A-series dragging around that humungous body, with build quality that makes the 33 look like a Lexus!

Deawoo Racer - Are there any running? Wouldn't take one even if offered free!

Mazda MR90 - The underpinnings were outdated in the 1970s when it was launched. Recycled for the 90s. I actually owned a 74 wagon in Oz for 4 months. Scary on the freeway and anywhere above 90km/h despite the fat 5 slotter alloys and Bridgstone Potenzas !

Proton Saga - Urrgh!!! x 2 The build quality was terrible and it would be near impossible to find a well kept one. Again ancient under pinnings that hardly set any standard in its day.

Ok some of the others are actually what I like and would consider,

Alfa 146 and 155 - naturally . However you'll be going a bit over the budget for a good one. And if you do get lugged with a bad one, it's likely that you'll lose a lot of hair.

Punto Mk1 - Super. My bro owned one and I regularly used it. 75bhp and ideal city car. Decent handling too.

Ford Laser/Astina - Similar to the Interplay - I've never driven the equalent Laser though.

Legacy Mk1 - Yes with a Turbo please !

[Devinda_Z]

Interesting list Devinda... Some of these will be well below the budget won't they? But some of the cars here I would not consider at all,

Legacy Mk1 - Yes with a Turbo please !

Agreed GTAm - most of the cars on that list I personally wouldn't touch with a barge pole!

However, I was insistent that the Legacy not be excluded, hence the late entry into the pole! if my memory serves me right that generation of Legacy held an FIA sanctioned endurance record of some sort...

There was another very obscure car in the form of the Daewoo Espero that I had left out

- I know I know, nothing to write home about, but Supra_Natural queried, in much the same manner as you did about the Daewoo Racer, as to whether these cars are actually still in use- and lo and behold within a few hours of that I found pulled up behind a fairly well maintained Green Espero on 18- plates and a Daewoo Racer a few moments later, which btw was trashed to the point were driving behind it became worrying for the fear of being struck by flying debris in the form of a rear bumper which was about to come completely undone!!!

There could possibly be a few more cars that were not really brought down in large volumes such as the Nissan Langley...

...i guess many cars now long forgotten are gonna re-appear , be it momentarily , on this thread...

[GTAm]

Agreed GTAm - most of the cars on that list I personally wouldn't touch with a barge pole!

However, I was insistent that the Legacy not be excluded, hence the late entry into the pole! if my memory serves me right that generation of Legacy held an FIA sanctioned endurance record of some sort...

They might have. I vaguely remeber something to that effect. Shame on me really as selling Legacys was my first ever job

There was another very obscure car in the form of the Daewoo Espero that I had left out

- I know I know, nothing to write home about, but Supra_Natural queried, in much the same manner as you did about the Daewoo Racer, as to whether these cars are actually still in use- and lo and behold within a few hours of that I found pulled up behind a fairly well maintained Green Espero on 18- plates and a Daewoo Racer a few moments later, which btw was trashed to the point were driving behind it became worrying for the fear of being struck by flying debris in the form of a rear bumper which was about to come completely undone!!!

Heh heh I remember there was a taxi company that ran lots of Racers. They and the Espero were ancient GM cars (Astra/Cavalier) recycled. BTW the Espero was styled by the famous Italian design house Bertone. That's why it looks a bit like a Xantia which was also penned there. Not enough an incentive to consider one

There could possibly be a few more cars that were not really brought down in large volumes such as the Nissan Langley...

...i guess many cars now long forgotten are gonna re-appear , be it momentarily , on this thread...

I can't remeber what the Langley looks like, although I remember the name. Was it a booted Cherry/Pulsar? Another car that I seriously like is the Opel Omega. Again I owned one in SL for a few months and really loved and respected especially when I compared it with the Pug 605 and E34 518i two of my pals owned. The Omega was better than the BMW and a lot better than the Pug.

However I then went and drove an Alfa 164 2.0TS and that was the end of the Omega affair .

[Supra_Natural]

I can't remeber what the Langley looks like, although I remember the name. Was it a booted Cherry/Pulsar? Another car that I seriously like is the Opel Omega. Again I owned one in SL for a few months and really loved and respected especially when I compared it with the Pug 605 and E34 518i two of my pals owned. The Omega was better than the BMW and a lot better than the Pug.

However I then went and drove an Alfa 164 2.0TS and that was the end of the Omega affair .

The omega missed nomination on this list (though i was sorely tempted) by the simple fact that my mate wants something compact..... It is a rather nice car though... haven't driven one myself, but have ridden in a few, and liked them.....

by the way, Omegas are ridiculously cheap now aren't they? any particular reason for this??

[GTAm]

The omega missed nomination on this list (though i was sorely tempted) by the simple fact that my mate wants something compact..... It is a rather nice car though... haven't driven one myself, but have ridden in a few, and liked them.....

by the way, Omegas are ridiculously cheap now aren't they? any particular reason for this??

Yes they're large.

Well the agents are the sleepiest I've ever encountered. They have no spares and they don't seem to be interested in their brands anymore. Besides the Omega never got replaced (since no one wants big non premium) so even the name is being slowly forgotten.

The fuel consumption was quite good too . Can't imagine a big car like that giving 8km/l but it did.

[miniace]

Its E30 my choice.Once I owned one and thats a lovely car.Its good to see thats leading the moment!

MINIACE

[GTAm]

Its E30 my choice.Once I owned one and thats a lovely car.Its good to see thats leading the moment!

MINIACE

How nice. It shows that there's good number on Autolanka members who have good taste and are less conservative than the rest .

[MrCat]

Thus my choice is the interplay.

The Don

My choice would be the same.. I think is good value for money and for sure not "dull" as a Corolla or a FB13..

Especially a black Interplay would be a beauty..

Edited December 27, 2007 by MrCat

[xXx]

How nice. It shows that there's good number on Autolanka members who have good taste and are less conservative than the rest .

if the money is coming out of their own pockets i'm sure the 11 members who voted for the BMW will think twice even trice before taking the plunge.

taking the age of the car into consideration one must wonder weather that car was maintained well over those years to ensure trouble free running for couple of more years. since BMW's require specialist mechanics and parts compared to the japanies counterparts i'll pick the safe boring option of toyota or the nissan.

[GTAm]

if the money is coming out of their own pockets i'm sure the 11 members who voted for the BMW will think twice even trice before taking the plunge.

taking the age of the car into consideration one must wonder weather that car was maintained well over those years to ensure trouble free running for couple of more years. since BMW's require specialist mechanics and parts compared to the japanies counterparts i'll pick the safe boring option of toyota or the nissan.

Yes your point about finding a well maintained car of this age being tough is very true. But I would also think that you are more likely to find a two or three owner well maintained BMW with history than a AE91 Corolla that will most certainly have a million kilometers on the clock, crash repairs all around the body and 15 owners on the book.

[Pericles]

if the money is coming out of their own pockets i'm sure the 11 members who voted for the BMW will think twice even trice before taking the plunge.

taking the age of the car into consideration one must wonder weather that car was maintained well over those years to ensure trouble free running for couple of more years. since BMW's require specialist mechanics and parts compared to the japanies counterparts i'll pick the safe boring option of toyota or the nissan.

Already thought about it before voting mate They say you get what you pay for. Even on an old BM, the badge value is worth the parts prices. (IMHO) Besides, as much as people think Jap vehicles go on for ever, we are talking German Engineering here. And GTAm has a point on the maintenance. You have a helluva lot more choice to look thru to find a decent example with the Japs, but if you take well maintained cars per 10 cars examined, the BM has a better chance of winning.

[miniace]

if the money is coming out of their own pockets i'm sure the 11 members who voted for the BMW will think twice even trice before taking the plunge.

taking the age of the car into consideration one must wonder weather that car was maintained well over those years to ensure trouble free running for couple of more years. since BMW's require specialist mechanics and parts compared to the japanies counterparts i'll pick the safe boring option of toyota or the nissan.

I think many are wrong about the spare parts availability and the price of E30 spares.Just visit a Beemer spares vendor and get the true picture.E 30 I owned got nowhere near expensive repairs for two plus years.Neither wasted my time searching spares.

Dont be surprised to see my fleet is added again with an E30.

MINIACE

[MRM]

thought this might be usefull for the BMW fans ( of couse this is in US )

Looking to buy an E30 or another BMW?

Classic styling, superior performance, and bulletproof engineering make the BMW's a great car to own. However, like all cars, they require attention and repairs can be EXPENSIVE! It is very important that you know what to look for when you are searching for a BMW. If you go in blind, you can easily wind up paying what you paid for the car in repair costs. Use this page as a guide when you go BMW hunting.

BEFORE YOU SHOP...

Before you decide to start looking at E30's, you must promise yourself that you will not be afraid to get your hands dirty. Even if you find a gem, there will be problems that you should tackle yourself. BMW's are no harder to work on then other cars, but repair shops love to overcharge you just because you have a German car. Make a commitment to buy a metric set of tools, a Bentley manual, and a few hours of your time to keep your E30 in tip top shape without breaking your wallet.

If you cannot change your oil, replace a fuse, or tighten a bolt do not buy an E30 because the little things will kill your love for your E30 and your bank account.

However, if you don't mind spending a few hours every once in a while working on you car, then owning an E30 will be a great (and cheap) experience.

THE DIFFERENT MODELS

E30's were sold in the USA from 1984-1991 (1993 for convertibles). There were 2 door's, 4 door's and convertibles. Engines and options varied. Below is a quick rundown of the models.

M3 (1987-1991)

The legendary E30. Powered by a 2.3 inline 4 (s14) that put out 192 horsepower, 166 lb/ft of torque, and redlined at a lofty 7,100 RPM. The M3 is easily recognized by it's flared fenders, deep front spoiler, ground effects, bulky trunk, and rear wing.

325i/is/ (1987-1991)

Powered by a 2.5 inline 6 (m20b25) that produced 168 horsepower, 164 lbs/ft of torque, and a 6,500 redline. The "is" model came fully loaded with leather, heated seats, OBC, sports suspension, air conditioning, premium sound, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, and "basketweave" wheels. These options were also available on the "I" but you had to order them. The "IS" models can be recognized by their deep front spoiler, rear decklid "heckspoiler" and the 14" "basketweave" rims

325i Convertible (1987-1993)

Obviously the convertible had a removable roof. It shared the same engine as the 325i (m20b25). Like the "I", you had to order the options you wanted. The Convertible was equipped with E30 M3 front seats (only difference between E30 M3 front seats and regular front E30 seats is the stitching pattern), and a different rear seat to accommodate the power top.

325ix (1988-1991)

The 325ix was the "four wheel drive" E30. It had the same 2.5 inline 6 found in the order 325i models (m20b25). The IX came with 15" basketweave rims, special side skirts, and small fender flares. Other options varied.

325 (1986-1988)

The 325 was the base model from 1986-1988. It came with the 2.7 ETA engine (m20b27). These cars were usually stripped of options and some even came without sunroofs! In the final year of production (1988), the car came with the "Super ETA" engine. The "Super ETA" had the 2.7 "ETA" block, but came with different pistons, an "I" head. and an "I" exhaust. The rev limit was raised to 5,500, and horsepower went up to 127.

325e/es (1984-1986)

Powered by a 2.7 inline 6 (m20b27) that produced 121 horsepower, 174 lbs/ft of torque, and a 4,800 redline. The "ETA" engine was designed for the economy not for power. The "es" model came fully loaded with leather, sports suspension, air conditioning, premium sound, power mirrors, power windows, power locks, and "basketweave" wheels. These options were also available on the "E" but you had to order them. The "ES" models can be recognized by their deep front spoiler, rear decklid "heckspoiler" and the 14" "basketweave" rims.

318is (1990-1991)

The 318is came with a high revving 16 valve 1.8 liter inline 4 (m42b18) producing 136 horsepower and 128 lbs/ft of torque. The car was advertised as a modern day 2002. Although most people opted for the 325is, the 318is provided a bundle of fun for a great price. (NOTE that the 318is came with the m42b18 engine and the 318i came with the m40b18 engine).

318i (1990-1991)

The base model E30 in the 90's was powered by a 1.8 liter inline 4 (m40b18) that produced 115 horsepower and 122 lbs/ft of torque. Options varied. A 318i cabrio was even available for a while.

318i (1984-1985)

The 318i was powered by the 1.8 (m10b18) inline 4. The engine produced 101 horsepower at 5,800 RPM. Needless to say it was slow. Options were limited, and the car only survived for two years in the US market.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The one thing I cannot stress enough is that low mileage E30's do not make the best buys for two reasons. First, the owners of low mileage E30's usually ask a premium (I will explain why it is a bad idea to pay a premium for low mileage E30's). Second, owning an E30 between the 100,000 mile and 150,000 mile interval can be extremely expensive. A lot goes on these cars in the 50,000 mile period. Why pay a premium for a car with 90,000 miles when you are 10,000 miles away from hell? It make much more since to grab a cheap e30 with 150,000 miles or more since the 100,000-150,000 mile problems SHOULD have been fixed. Please note SHOULD.

So what is so bad about the 100,000-150,000 black hole I keep referring to? Well between 100,000-150,000 the following parts usually need to be replaced or repaired:

Steering rack $ 500

Control arms $ 500

Driveshaft $ 800

Radiator $ 250

Brakes $ 500

SI Board $ 250

Timing belt $ 400

Battery $ 100

Clutch $ 800

Various electronics $ 0-1,000

Auto Transmission $ 1,000

As you can see, stuff adds up very quickly.

There are no guarantees that the previous owner took care of the 100,000-150,000 mile maintenance, or did the jobs properly. There is even the possibility that the car you are buying managed to crawl through the 100,000-150,000 interval with no problems. This could mean that you are gonna get hit hard with repairs in as little as a week!

Luckily there is an easy way to see what you are getting into. GET THE SERVICE RECORDS! I strongly advise buying an E30 without the service records. If the owner did not take the time to document the work done to the car chances are he wouldn't take the time to make sure the work was done properly. There is also the possibility the owner had the car serviced at an auto repair "chain," or "mom and pop" mechanic.

One of the worst things an E30 owner can do is to have their car serviced at a generic auto repair shop. BMW are special cars that need special attention from certified BMW shops or highly recommended local shops that specialize in high end cars. Using an automotive repair "chain" or a "mom and pop" mechanic can be murder on BMW's.

KICKING THE FENDERS

Here is a list of things to check for when you buy an E30.

Exterior

Check all body panels for damage or signs of repair. Look to see if all the VIN numbers match. Look for anything out of the ordinary. Aftermarket spoilers or bodykits can sometimes be used to hide dents or damage. Check the head and taillights for cracks or pits. Make sure that all the door locks work properly. Check all trim and moldings for signs of overspray from a possible paint job. The hood washers, bumper trim, side moldings, door locks, door handles, and wipers should all be a flat black. If these are painted the body color the car could have a cheap paint job. Ask the owner if it OK to place a piece of making tape on an inconspicuous spot. If the car has the OEM or quality aftermarket paint job the tape should come of with no drama. If the tape takes tape with it, the car has been to a cheap repair shop. Look at the tread life on the tires. Also inspect the rims for damage. I also suggest that you get down and look at the under side of the car. Check for rust on the floorpans, drivetrain, and exhaust.

Interior

Look closely at the seats. If the owner has seat covers ask to remove them. Reupholstering jobs run $ 500- $ 2,000 for the front seats alone, so make sure the interior is in satisfactory shape. Check the dashboard and console for cracks or signs of wear. The carpet should be in decent shape. Ask to pull back a section to inspect the floorpans for rust (The carpet easily pulls back in the rear of the cabin. Make sure all buttons work. See that all the lights on the instrument cluster light up when the key is turned to position 1 or 2, and go dark once the car is started. It is very common for people to disconnect or remove the light bulbs to hid problems. Be sure the radio, power mirrors, power locks, power sunroof, flashers, turn signals, brake lights, fog lights, headlights, interior lights and AC work.

Engine bay and Trunk

Inspect the engine compartment and the trunk for signs of repair (The carpet will need to be pulled back in the trunk). The VINS should be found on both front fenders. The rear fenders do not have VIN stickers. Inspect all shock towers for excessive weld lines as it could be a sign of repair due to an accident or collapsed shock tower. The engine should be relatively clean. Make sure there are no leaks coming from the headgasket. Inspect the dipstick for signs of coolant (this could mean a cracked block). Check the condition and color of all fluid containers.

Test Drive

Check for a rough idle, hesitation, and knocks. The engine should be pretty smooth unless it is modified by performance upgrades like camshafts. Make sure the car can pull to redline without drama. Make sure the shifting is smooth and swift (short shifters can feel notchy). Check for a hard brake pedal and smooth stops. The handling and ride should be up to usual BMW standards (stiff but sweet). Make sure the E-brake is tight and holds the car in place. Don't be afraid to drive it hard! BMW's are strong machines that can take tough love easily if well maintained.

I strongly advise that you take your car to an independent mechanic for a check up before you buy. However, using these tips can eliminate problem cars right away and save you the $ 100 or so for a professional inspection.

It's actually pretty simple...

1. Choose the model you are interested in and set your price range.

2. Search the local Classified and Autotrader for the model you are looking for in your price range.

3. Inspect the car and ask the hard questions.

4. Take the car to an independent mechanic for the final inspection.

5. If everything looks good, buy it!

Copyright 2000-2007 Lukas Motors LLC. All Right Reserved.

Edited December 28, 2007 by MRM