Triumph T R Restore Project

[MasterDon]

Anybody know a good gasket sealant apart from the widely available Shellac brand...Does brands like Wurth carry those stuff?Any info and where to buy would be highly appreciated cos I have to get it ASAP.

[Ripper]

Anybody know a good gasket sealant apart from the widely available Shellac brand...Does brands like Wurth carry those stuff?Any info and where to buy would be highly appreciated cos I have to get it ASAP.

if your talking about liquid gasket makers there are plenty other brands.... And Wurth too.

I remember buying either a german or brit brand a few years back for a top end job on my mtx.

Panchi shops should have em and even a decently stocked spares shops too carry them.

[MasterDon]

if your talking about liquid gasket makers there are plenty other brands.... And Wurth too.

I remember buying either a german or brit brand a few years back for a top end job on my mtx.

Panchi shops should have em and even a decently stocked spares shops too carry them.

Thanks machan! I got the ABRO silicone based one and another German one called Curil from Kiribathgoda.This is for the copper water seal gasket which fits between the bottom of the liner and the block.Actually now I'm not so sure if a sealant is needed at all cos all the online articles and a couple of experts said not use any and just put the gasket in normally.Some say the sealant may make things worse.Must talk it out with my mechanic.I'll let you know how it goes

[MeanGreenZ28]

if its a copper crush seal, you probably don't have to use any gasket maker with it. Although there are some spray surface preps you could use if you want. It it's a paper gasket, then I usually apply a very light coat on both surfaces to improve sealing.

[Ripper]

if its a copper crush seal, you probably don't have to use any gasket maker with it. Although there are some spray surface preps you could use if you want. It it's a paper gasket, then I usually apply a very light coat on both surfaces to improve sealing.

1+

imho...if there is a gasket or it has a copper crush sealing method you don't need liquid gasket makers. Gaskets and copper crush sealings need direct pressure from the jointing surfaces to work properly and sealants will only screw it up.

I found this out first hand trying to be extra safe on top end cylinder gasket job i did at home. after the motor heated up, it was leaking like crazy.

[MasterDon]

if its a copper crush seal, you probably don't have to use any gasket maker with it. Although there are some spray surface preps you could use if you want. It it's a paper gasket, then I usually apply a very light coat on both surfaces to improve sealing.

1+

imho...if there is a gasket or it has a copper crush sealing method you don't need liquid gasket makers. Gaskets and copper crush sealings need direct pressure from the jointing surfaces to work properly and sealants will only screw it up.

I found this out first hand trying to be extra safe on top end cylinder gasket job i did at home. after the motor heated up, it was leaking like crazy.

Thanks guys.Yup that's what I thought as well.Bugger was trying to be extra careful but I finally convinced the guy to not put any sealant.

[MasterDon]

Don't forget to watch tomorrow's episode of Motorque.Supra is testing a Triumph TR3A.The successor to the car being restored in this thread.

Skip to 9.34 mark for the TR3A test drive...

Edited May 28, 2012 by MasterDon

[terrabytetango]

@md ok so, i have to ask, was the green XJS V12 i saw on the back of the red truck this evening yours? i ask cos your avatar is sporting avatar is sporting a jag v12 badge and you mentioned a while back a v12 was on the way.

[Kavvz]

Skip to 9.34 mark for the TR3A test drive...

Wow, that was one hell of a restoration job. Kudos to the owner !!

[Sumiya]

Hi Don,

Good Luck with the rebuild mate all the best, Apart from Mine you have big advantage that you can take chassis apart from the car,

you can do a perfect job underneath,

I also has the same problem with my hand grinder used a Chinese one and had to replace brushed every weeks time,and also i have busted Bosch grinder which needs armature which costs me double of a normal hand grinder,

thought of going for another cheap makitha instead of that for the moment.

thanks

regards

sumith

[MasterDon]

@md ok so, i have to ask, was the green XJS V12 i saw on the back of the red truck this evening yours? i ask cos your avatar is sporting avatar is sporting a jag v12 badge and you mentioned a while back a v12 was on the way.

No dude my XJS is not roadworthy at the moment.But it is not a rust bucket either.You'll be able to see it on our roads very soon.

Edited May 29, 2012 by MasterDon

[MasterDon]

The Undercoat

The necessity of an Anti-chip underseal coat is still hugely debated among restorers.Then main criticism aimed toward it is that the coat itself tends to retain moisture and that over time it'll eat through the paint and rust the under side of the body tub.While there is some truth to this I personally apply a very thick undercoat layer to my cars.Let's just say it is a personal preference.And that layer tends to act as a sound deadening coat and adds a sense 'solidity to the whole car.

I highly recommend people to do this themselves provided they find the necessary equipment(compressor,spray gun etc) because not only is this quite easy to do but also saves you a lot of money than hiring a proffesional painter.

First you shall need a specialized spray gun designed solely for applying undercoat paint.You can find these in most auto paint shops.

Then the undercoat paint itself.I normally go for the kerosene based one but this time i went with the brand below.Three of these should be enough to cover an average size car two times over.You can dunk the spray gun straight in to the can itself and spray cos its pre-mixed.Don't forget to give it a good shake though.

Before you apply the undercoat first apply a layer of primer and layer of black to the underside.After that apply two even layers of the undercoat.You do not need to let the first coat dry before spraying the second.

This is what the finished undercoat should look like.A rough textured grainy look is what we're looking for.

Edited August 28, 2012 by MasterDon

[harshansenadhir]

that's some useful piece of info Don and was always wanted to do this but couldn't as I was afraid the cost factor to be honest. once applied kerosene based undercoat using a brush though, that was dirt cheap but you cannot apply any paint over it, specially when it comes to inside the wheel arches, you might require to give it a paint in the body color.

How about this one, you used? can it sustain another paint coat over it? Further, don't you have to have a powerful compressor to handle this job?

[tiv]

No dude my XJS is not roadworthy at the moment.But it is not a rust bucket either.You'll be able to see it on our roads very soon.

If is not too much to ask a pic perhaps?

[The Don]

thought of going for another cheap makitha instead of that for the moment.

I don't think Makita is cheap to be honest. I have friends who prefer Makita to Bosch. The professionals seem to prefer De-Walt the professional brand of Black & Decker

[MasterDon]

that's some useful piece of info Don and was always wanted to do this but couldn't as I was afraid the cost factor to be honest. once applied kerosene based undercoat using a brush though, that was dirt cheap but you cannot apply any paint over it, specially when it comes to inside the wheel arches, you might require to give it a paint in the body color.

How about this one, you used? can it sustain another paint coat over it? Further, don't you have to have a powerful compressor to handle this job?

This undercoat is pretty ok Harsan,I'm happy with how it turned out.No, a paint coat over it is not possible(atleast it won't look great),as you can see I didn't spray it on the wheel arches as those will be applied with the colour same as the body.I'm not entirely sure about the compressor but my 2HP 125PSI one was enough to do the job.

If is not too much to ask a pic perhaps?

I'd rather not in it's current state.I'll upload some pictures to Autolanka when it is completed.

[Mani]

Don,

If available, you can also use truck bed liner. I like to roll it on and the advantage is that you can tint it to whatever color you want. Could be a good option for the wheel arches. You can also use this stuff on areas where a rock chip may occure like the leading edge of the back wheel arch since you have overfenders.

[MasterDon]

Don,

If available, you can also use truck bed liner. I like to roll it on and the advantage is that you can tint it to whatever color you want. Could be a good option for the wheel arches. You can also use this stuff on areas where a rock chip may occure like the leading edge of the back wheel arch since you have overfenders.

hmmm that's an idea.I'd hate to leave the wheel arches without any protection.Thanks for the tip Mani,I'll check it out see if it's do-able here.

Edited May 31, 2012 by MasterDon

[GTAm]

Nice resto work MD. Restoration is such an tedious and expensive process but when you sit back and look at the result stage by stage, it is so rewarding and exciting!

Any target date you have set? I can tell you that I have never ever hit any target date on any of my cars. Often missing targets by years!

Btw your XJS is a coupe or conv?

[MasterDon]

Nice resto work MD. Restoration is such an tedious and expensive process but when you sit back and look at the result stage by stage, it is so rewarding and exciting!

Any target date you have set? I can tell you that I have never ever hit any target date on any of my cars. Often missing targets by years!

Btw your XJS is a coupe or conv?

Hey GTAm.glad to see you active again on the forum.And i say Amen to your first sentence.It is indeed tough going but you can't help but feel excited when she's taking shape.I'm hoping to get it done by the year's end but it'll most definitely take longer,hoping to run it at Mahagastota next year at the CCC event.The Jag is a coupe with the original V12.I'll explain more of it at the next 'sunday run',(which should be a good one.gonna be longer run than usual I heard)

[MasterDon]

The Blacky comes home after a holiday drive.The rear right shock is bottoming out, needs replacing me thinks...

[terrabytetango]

The resto is done? Or is this one of your other TRs?

[MasterDon]

The resto is done? Or is this one of your other TRs?

No tbt this is another car,an mg.

[MasterDon]

Recently got myself a set of chromed TRIUMPH letters that comes in front of the car.But I'm in two minds wondering wether to actually put them on the car or not.I feel as if they'd clutter up the face and make it seem 'busy' and spoil it....

What do you guys think?...on or off?

With the lettters...

and without.

Edited June 19, 2012 by MasterDon

[terrabytetango]

Being a minimalist, I would say without. Anyone will (should) know it's a Triumph simply by looking at it. And as for the video, youtube is blocked at work, so for some reason I assumed it was of the project car. I dream of twin cam MGAs.