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Lancer EX Running Repairs and Maintenance


trinity

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12 minutes ago, trinity said:

Guys, Im thinking of lowering the car a bit as those hideous gap in the wheel well is a sore in the eye to me... Suggestions are welcome.

Ado by how many inches?

For sure it's going to be a bumpy ride in SL, I know you like that anyway ?

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36 minutes ago, trinity said:

Guys, Im thinking of lowering the car a bit as those hideous gap in the wheel well is a sore in the eye to me... Suggestions are welcome.

@E L N I N O is the guy with the experience... wonder if he is still around

Granted that lowering and upgrading the wheels would massively improve the looks but are you sure you don't want the extra ground clearance?

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14 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

That's quite a lot of gunk right there... did they flush your brake fluid too?

 

I too was surprised to see that much junk. Yeap they flushed the fluid. Total cost 8k. Further there were some signs of inner wear in the brake cylinder. So they suggested to replace both cylinders. I didn’t go with that because of the cost. (17k per cylinder) maybe I will wait until the next service to check if the repair was indeed a success.

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12 hours ago, trinity said:

Guys, Im thinking of lowering the car a bit as those hideous gap in the wheel well is a sore in the eye to me... Suggestions are welcome.

Ha ha you are welcome to the Lowlife club..?. Are you planning to do this with coilovers or just by lowering springs?

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35 minutes ago, K.o.N.o.S said:

I too was surprised to see that much junk. Yeap they flushed the fluid. Total cost 8k. Further there were some signs of inner wear in the brake cylinder. So they suggested to replace both cylinders. I didn’t go with that because of the cost. (17k per cylinder) maybe I will wait until the next service to check if the repair was indeed a success.

17k? WTH? You could get a Brembo brake cylinder from eBay for 5k!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BREMBO-Wheel-Brake-Cylinder-A-12-397/162695050515

https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/hydraulic/A_12_397

https://mega.nz/file/m41mWCjD#Pjmznpe42xUPT32wOi8tgxv0X_2G80TML6sj7eN8k1s

Edited by Hyaenidae
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  • 2 weeks later...

@trinity @K.o.N.o.S @Davy Guys, I'm going to get my coolant changed for the first time since I bought the car. When you got your coolant replaced, did they use a vacuum suction tool to refill coolant? The workshop manual recommends using one, apparently to ensure there are no air bubbles trapped in the system when refilling the coolant. Do you guys think it is mandatory to use this "LLC Changer" or just a simple refilling would be enough?

22LhUyV.png

 

Edited by Hyaenidae
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3 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

@trinity @K.o.N.o.S @Davy Guys, I'm going to get my coolant changed for the first time since I bought the car. When you got your coolant replaced, did they use a vacuum suction tool to refill coolant? The workshop manual recommends using one, apparently to ensure there are no air bubbles trapped in the system when refilling the coolant. Do you guys think it is mandatory to use this "LLC Changer" or just a simple refilling would be enough?

22LhUyV.png

 

I assume you are going to get it done at the agents? I do not think it is necessary to use a LLC changer. Anyway I am yet to change coolant and I thought this is something which we can DIY at home.

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9 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

@trinity @K.o.N.o.S @Davy Guys, I'm going to get my coolant changed for the first time since I bought the car. When you got your coolant replaced, did they use a vacuum suction tool to refill coolant? The workshop manual recommends using one, apparently to ensure there are no air bubbles trapped in the system when refilling the coolant. Do you guys think it is mandatory to use this "LLC Changer" or just a simple refilling would be enough?

22LhUyV.png

 

I did it myself at home. So I didn't use any special tool. Just followed the conventional method of replacing coolant. To bleed out air from the system, the engine was started with the radiator cap off and heater on for about 15 minutes until the thermostat opened up. This causes air bubbles to be pushed through the system and out the radiator filler port.

The tool suggested in the manual makes it quick and easy because you don't have to run the engine and just wait until the car does all the bleeding. But it is not mandatory to use it. 

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8 hours ago, K.o.N.o.S said:

I assume you are going to get it done at the agents? I do not think it is necessary to use a LLC changer. Anyway I am yet to change coolant and I thought this is something which we can DIY at home.

 

2 hours ago, Davy said:

I did it myself at home. So I didn't use any special tool. Just followed the conventional method of replacing coolant. To bleed out air from the system, the engine was started with the radiator cap off and heater on for about 15 minutes until the thermostat opened up. This causes air bubbles to be pushed through the system and out the radiator filler port.

The tool suggested in the manual makes it quick and easy because you don't have to run the engine and just wait until the car does all the bleeding. But it is not mandatory to use it. 

Thanks guys

@K.o.N.o.S Please post a DIY thread or post an update here when you do it :)

@Davy If air bubbles push through the system to the top of the radiator won't those get out through the expansion tank ? 

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14 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

@trinity @K.o.N.o.S @Davy Guys, I'm going to get my coolant changed for the first time since I bought the car. When you got your coolant replaced, did they use a vacuum suction tool to refill coolant? The workshop manual recommends using one, apparently to ensure there are no air bubbles trapped in the system when refilling the coolant. Do you guys think it is mandatory to use this "LLC Changer" or just a simple refilling would be enough?

22LhUyV.png

 

Mine was done as Davy mentioned. I didn’t  go to the agent for it though. Got it done at the local service station. No issue at all. 

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On 6/11/2020 at 10:02 PM, K.o.N.o.S said:

Ha ha you are welcome to the Lowlife club..?. Are you planning to do this with coilovers or just by lowering springs?

Sorry could not reply earlier. Never had time. After carefully considering the pros and cons, I gave up the idea. Also, I’m nearing the tire replacement which will put a hole in my pocket. Can’t spare money for anything else. 

Ima need to find a spoiler though. 

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2 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

@Davy If air bubbles push through the system to the top of the radiator won't those get out through the expansion tank ? 

Depending on the pressure rating of the radiator cap, coolant (and air) will push it's way out through to the expansion tank eventually. However, this doesn't happen as easily as when the radiator cap is open.

By the time the radiator cap's pressure relief valve is ready to open, the coolant is under high  pressure, and it's boiling point has rised above the value at normal atmospheric pressure. So there could be very hot air bubbles still in the system that are unable to escape for quite some time. If the air bubbles are deep within the engine, it can cause hot spots and even damage the block. So it's best to do it it beforehand. 

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21 minutes ago, trinity said:

Sorry could not reply earlier. Never had time. After carefully considering the pros and cons, I gave up the idea. Also, I’m nearing the tire replacement which will put a hole in my pocket. Can’t spare money for anything else. 

Ima need to find a spoiler though. 

Aw come on! ☹️

 

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6 minutes ago, Davy said:

Depending on the pressure rating of the radiator cap, coolant (and air) will push it's way out through to the expansion tank eventually. However, this doesn't happen as easily as when the radiator cap is open.

By the time the radiator cap's pressure relief valve is ready to open, the coolant is under high  pressure, and it's boiling point has rised above the value at normal atmospheric pressure. So there could be very hot air bubbles still in the system that are unable to escape for quite some time. If the air bubbles are deep within the engine, it can cause hot spots and even damage the block. So it's best to do it it beforehand. 

Ah, that makes sense.

The only reason I'm changing coolant is it's past the 5 year mark, the coolant itself and everything looks great with no discoloration or residue-forming... would it be enough if I only get the radiator and expansion tank drained and refilled without draining the engine block and doing a full flush? That way I won't get air bubbles inside the engine block, right?

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1 hour ago, Hyaenidae said:

Ah, that makes sense.

The only reason I'm changing coolant is it's past the 5 year mark, the coolant itself and everything looks great with no discoloration or residue-forming... would it be enough if I only get the radiator and expansion tank drained and refilled without draining the engine block and doing a full flush? That way I won't get air bubbles inside the engine block, right?

When the radiator is drained, coolant from the engine block will flow into the radiator under gravity anyway. Although your coolant looks good to the eye, over time, coolant loses its pH level and turns slightly acidic and loses its rust prevention properties as well. There are coolant test strips (basically a pH test against a given scale) which is probably an option for you if you want to make sure. 

My advice is to get a regular coolant change (not just the expansion tank) done if you're doing it. Don't worry, if you keep the engine running as explained above, air bubbles will be bled out of the system. If you are concerned, just keep an eye on the temperature gauge for a couple of days. ?

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2 hours ago, Davy said:

There are coolant test strips (basically a pH test against a given scale) which is probably an option for you if you want to make sure. 

 

I did the multimeter test last week, it didn't exceed 0.09V when engine is not running and 0.1V when the engine is running... they say coolant is good to go as long as it doesn't exceed 0.3-0.4V so based on that I'm guessing that the coolant haven't turned acidic and isn't conducting electricity in harmful levels... but I'll get the engine block drained too in any case, in for a penny in for a pound rite :D

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6 hours ago, Davy said:

Aw come on! ☹️

 

Ha ha if only I had a fried close by to help to go through with it.. ha ha 

2 hours ago, K.o.N.o.S said:

It is time to do some brainwashing.?

Hmmm I see, thing is sometime car scrapes even with this height.. I wonder how a lowered one would fare ?

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13 minutes ago, Davy said:

Okay let's see if this works...

IMG_20181229_114214.thumb.jpg.7060ea39a7f5d3e3b26b216c52058464.jpg

IMG_20181229_114232.thumb.jpg.1b444f5432c957efb3118bc5985a4d48.jpg

Convinced yet @trinity? :D Also this is why you need the high spoiler as well. :D :D 

Hamme yako.. ?????? she is a stunner isn’t it? Agreed on the high spoiler. Gonna need your bumpers and side skirts as well.. not to mention the wheels.. 

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On 6/27/2020 at 6:21 PM, Davy said:

Okay let's see if this works...

IMG_20181229_114214.thumb.jpg.7060ea39a7f5d3e3b26b216c52058464.jpg

 

t's like playing NFS MW back in the day... 2nd pic is buying an entry level car at the start of the game and 1st pic is the car after many visits to the tuning shop, ready to face Razor in his ill-gotten BMW :D 

Edited by Hyaenidae
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