Continuous excessive vibration in Drive mode with brake applied

[asanka_rg]

Hello all,

I need to clarify that my suzuki swift 2003 car has a excessive vibration on D with brake applied. in N and P modes there is no (negligible) vibration. In R also the vibration is not mush it should be normal to my thinking. gearbox oil is in good condition.

I suspected the engine mounts and checked all are good according to the mechanic. Then he asked to do a throttle body cleaning along with a engine tuneup. please give me some advises to fix this issue. there is no vibration while accelerating (moving).

By the way there is a humming sound which is coming when only accelerating ?? give me some directions to sort out this too 

thank you...!

 

[PerfMad]

4 minutes ago, asanka_rg said:

Hello all,

I need to clarify that my suzuki swift 2003 car has a excessive vibration on D with brake applied. in N and P modes there is no (negligible) vibration. In R also the vibration is not mush it should be normal to my thinking. gearbox oil is in good condition.

I suspected the engine mounts and checked all are good according to the mechanic. Then he asked to do a throttle body cleaning along with a engine tuneup. please give me some advises to fix this issue. there is no vibration while accelerating (moving).

By the way there is a humming sound which is coming when only accelerating ?? give me some directions to sort out this too 

thank you...!

 

Hi @asanka_rg 

In conventional auto gear boxes, some vibration in D with brake pressed all the way down is expect-able.. but if its bit excessive, then first thing you need to check is all you mounts condition.. And as per you its all good..

Just curious is this vibration comes only when the AC is on or when AC is off as well? is there any difference in vibration when its on/off ?? Also Do this vibration remains same in COLD start as well as when engine is in operating temperature ??

however doing an engine tuneup won't harm your car.. vibration may be due to carbon in throttle body/ blocked IACV as well.. So the best thing is to get a proper tuneup.. During the procedure make sure to check ur fuel pressure, clean throttle body and all related sensors + injectors and also check the condition of ur spark plugs and ignition plugs..

Regarding your humming sound, is it coming from rear side of your car? if so it could be due to worn out  razors as well.. but this usually comes if u speed around 50+kmph mostly

[asanka_rg]

Thanks for the comment. 

the vibration is coming with AC & AC off without a clear difference.

vibration is similar in cold start and the engine running temp as well. 

Humming sound - I don't think it's the wheel bearings. even at high speeds only when the accelerator pedal pressed this sound comes (somewhat like a heavy vehicle engine)  once the accelerator pedal is free there is no sound. 

[GayanR]

I think your brakes are poor.Try stepping on peddle hard and see if the vibration is still noticeable.

[asanka_rg]

5 minutes ago, GayanR said:

I think your brakes are poor.Try stepping on peddle hard and see if the vibration is still noticeable.

brakes service was done very recently. 

[Rumesh88]

Does your engine rev up to around 1500 RPM (you may judge by the sound if you don't have RPM meter) and then slowly come down to about 800 RPM when you do a cold start with AC off and gear in P? Seems to me that your engine needs a tune up as suggested by PerfMad above. Make sure you get PCV valve cleaned in addition to things mentioned above. Humming sound (or is it a sound like a tractor?) can wait until you complete the tune up.

[asanka_rg]

15 minutes ago, Rumesh88 said:

Does your engine rev up to around 1500 RPM (you may judge by the sound if you don't have RPM meter) and then slowly come down to about 800 RPM when you do a cold start with AC off and gear in P? Seems to me that your engine needs a tune up as suggested by PerfMad above. Make sure you get PCV valve cleaned in addition to things mentioned above. Humming sound (or is it a sound like a tractor?) can wait until you complete the tune up.

yes. exactly the rpm going above 1000rpm mark and getting about 700-800rpm in cold start. could you suggest a good and reliable place to do an engine tuneup to a reasonable cost. (i'm live in Avissawella.)  

[Rumesh88]

2 hours ago, asanka_rg said:

yes. exactly the rpm going above 1000rpm mark and getting about 700-800rpm in cold start. could you suggest a good and reliable place to do an engine tuneup to a reasonable cost. (i'm live in Avissawella.)  

Good reliable place and reasonable cost do not always mix up very well . Let's see if someone else in the forum can help you with it. 

[asanka_rg]

anybody Please give me some reliable place to do the engine tune up to fix this issue will be highly appreciated. I can reach Colombo area easily.

 

[petrolHead1]

On 2/2/2017 at 0:41 PM, asanka_rg said:

brakes service was done very recently. 

The same thing happened to me with my Alto. I went to get the brake pads replaced and the brake disks faced but ended up with this scenario. After long hours of waiting in garages and A*W I figured that the problem was with the drive shafts. Some how the brake makabaas has damaged them. I replaced them with recondition parts from Jap*n La*ka for 8000 per axel (CV inner + outer + shaft) . Hope that you will not experience this. 

Check for brake disk failure and then try to jack the car up and look for play in the tires. Good luck!!!

[asanka_rg]

On ‎2‎/‎2‎/‎2017 at 3:51 PM, Rumesh88 said:

Good reliable place and reasonable cost do not always mix up very well . Let's see if someone else in the forum can help you with it. 

hi, I went to Dammika Fernando's place to do a tuneup. He first scanned and tell me throttle body sensor readings are fine and no need to clean. He did only remove plugs and clean them and reassembled. He asked me to double check the engine mounts.he said one mount is podak behalaa. He asked me to lossen all mounts and check with a mechanic so then it can be clearly identified whether the mounts are good or bad.

but I got a another prob when I came home. Now when I accelerating the car is mis firing. It is hard to accelerate really. Car pulling power is not continues. (kadi kadi adinne). This is not happened before tune up anyway. Is that a prob of plug coils or plugs?? Normal acceleration is normal. Only hard acceleration is look messy. When like taking over another vehicle.

[Twin Turbo]

You should have changed the spark plugs.Prob the cause of your rough running from the begining.

It is also worth getting the injectors and indition systems looked at since they also can be traced as mis-fire/ rough run  causers.

Coul the vibe be caused from the breakes?

you might want to consider changing the atf before the transmission throws a fit.

Edited February 17, 2017 by Twin Turbo

[Crosswind]

18 hours ago, asanka_rg said:

hi, I went to Dammika Fernando's place to do a tuneup. He first scanned and tell me throttle body sensor readings are fine and no need to clean. He did only remove plugs and clean them and reassembled. He asked me to double check the engine mounts.he said one mount is podak behalaa. He asked me to lossen all mounts and check with a mechanic so then it can be clearly identified whether the mounts are good or bad.

but I got a another prob when I came home. Now when I accelerating the car is mis firing. It is hard to accelerate really. Car pulling power is not continues. (kadi kadi adinne). This is not happened before tune up anyway. Is that a prob of plug coils or plugs?? Normal acceleration is normal. Only hard acceleration is look messy. When like taking over another vehicle.

Cleaning spark plugs is not something I would do. Misfiring can occur if the plug gap is more or less than the exact amount (its usually in 1/10th of mm's - ex. 1.3mm). If the gap changes while cleaning, the plug wouldnt fire properly. Also if you have an iridium tipped plug, it might break or loose its alignment, thus not firing properly or not firing at all.

 

[Davy]

There's a chance that the coil packs were not properly installed after the repair. You can check this yourself and ensure they are properly secured and the connectors are also plugged in properly.

[Rumesh88]

It is also possible that one of the plug boots or plug wire on the coil-on-plug ignition packs or even a pack itself is leaky. Best approach is to refer the matter back to Dhammika now that the issue is different.

[The Stig]

On 2/12/2017 at 0:47 PM, asanka_rg said:

hi, I went to Dammika Fernando's place to do a tuneup. He first scanned and tell me throttle body sensor readings are fine and no need to clean. He did only remove plugs and clean them and reassembled. He asked me to double check the engine mounts.he said one mount is podak behalaa. He asked me to lossen all mounts and check with a mechanic so then it can be clearly identified whether the mounts are good or bad.

but I got a another prob when I came home. Now when I accelerating the car is mis firing. It is hard to accelerate really. Car pulling power is not continues. (kadi kadi adinne). This is not happened before tune up anyway. Is that a prob of plug coils or plugs?? Normal acceleration is normal. Only hard acceleration is look messy. When like taking over another vehicle.

I know dhammika is highly recommended in the forum but I also got the exact same issue after he did a tuneup to my car, it started knocking like hell. Thankfully I have a spark plug gapping tool and the gap had been set incorrectly at 1.3mm when it should be 1mm.

[asanka_rg]

On 2/14/2017 at 4:59 PM, The Stig said:

I know dhammika is highly recommended in the forum but I also got the exact same issue after he did a tuneup to my car, it started knocking like hell. Thankfully I have a spark plug gapping tool and the gap had been set incorrectly at 1.3mm when it should be 1mm.

Could u suggest a place where I can check the spark plug gap 

[asanka_rg]

what is the correct spark plug gap for suzuki swift 1.3 M13A engine? 

[asanka_rg]

On 2/2/2017 at 10:21 AM, PerfMad said:

Hi @asanka_rg 

In conventional auto gear boxes, some vibration in D with brake pressed all the way down is expect-able.. but if its bit excessive, then first thing you need to check is all you mounts condition.. And as per you its all good..

Just curious is this vibration comes only when the AC is on or when AC is off as well? is there any difference in vibration when its on/off ?? Also Do this vibration remains same in COLD start as well as when engine is in operating temperature ??

however doing an engine tuneup won't harm your car.. vibration may be due to carbon in throttle body/ blocked IACV as well.. So the best thing is to get a proper tuneup.. During the procedure make sure to check ur fuel pressure, clean throttle body and all related sensors + injectors and also check the condition of ur spark plugs and ignition plugs..

Regarding your humming sound, is it coming from rear side of your car? if so it could be due to worn out  razors as well.. but this usually comes if u speed around 50+kmph mostly

I performed the engine tune up and mechanic (Dhammika) says the throttle body sensor readings are ok. no need to clean. 

vibration is same in cold and engine working temp. During the tuneup he only cleaned the spark plug and adjust the gap. he asked me to put a injector cleaner to the petrol tank. humming sound come from the front of the car. it's not from the wheel bearings. it's comming only when accelerating. I might need to double check the mounts with a proper place I think...

 

[Davy]

Deleted. Not relevant. 

Edited February 19, 2017 by Davy

[Rumesh88]

15 hours ago, asanka_rg said:

what is the correct spark plug gap for suzuki swift 1.3 M13A engine? 

Plug gap is 1.1 mm. You need not expect much expertise from the mechanic to do it. All what is needed is a plug box spanner and a feeler gauge (better if it is wire type). Of course, the gap adjustment is a bit more critical with the type of ignition coil arrangement found in M13A engines because of the "wasted spark" technique. Also get  the continuity of two carbon fibre plug wires checked with a muti-meter. The reading should be something like 3k -5k ohms.  You can get the continuity of the two ignition coil output windings checked (not sure of the exact figure but should be something like 3k to 5k ohms again. The value not important but it should not be open circuit) at the same time if that has not been done by the tune up guy.

Edited February 18, 2017 by Rumesh88

[asanka_rg]

On ‎2‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 7:32 AM, Rumesh88 said:

Plug gap is 1.1 mm. You need not expect much expertise from the mechanic to do it. All what is needed is a plug box spanner and a feeler gauge (better if it is wire type). Of course, the gap adjustment is a bit more critical with the type of ignition coil arrangement found in M13A engines because of the "wasted spark" technique. Also get  the continuity of two carbon fibre plug wires checked with a muti-meter. The reading should be something like 3k -5k ohms.  You can get the continuity of the two ignition coil output windings checked (not sure of the exact figure but should be something like 3k to 5k ohms again. The value not important but it should not be open circuit) at the same time if that has not been done by the tune up guy.

hi

I checked his tune up data sheet. There he mentioned that the plug gap is 1.1 mm. So no need to worry about that. Maybe the plug is leaking as u said. Can I use a tape to fix the issue temporally. Is it ok?. Coming back to the vib, I should mention that the vib is more noticeable when accelerating from zero velocity. Vib is spreading over the dashboard at that time. Is this a symptom of bad mounts..?? Thanks.

[Rumesh88]

1 hour ago, asanka_rg said:

hi

I checked his tune up data sheet. There he mentioned that the plug gap is 1.1 mm. So no need to worry about that. Maybe the plug is leaking as u said. Can I use a tape to fix the issue temporally. Is it ok?. Coming back to the vib, I should mention that the vib is more noticeable when accelerating from zero velocity. Vib is spreading over the dashboard at that time. Is this a symptom of bad mounts..?? Thanks.

Excessive vibration at a certain RPM is a sign of bad engine mounts. You need to decide whether the issue is with ignition system or the mounts. Does the vibration occur even if you accelerate in neutral? If so get someone to slowly accelerate and listen to exhaust sound for a miss in the engine beat. If you do not experience the vibration with gear in neutral but only when the drive is loaded then the problem is more likely to be with ignition system. Get the continuity of wires and coils tested just to be sure.

[asanka_rg]

On 2/19/2017 at 7:13 PM, Rumesh88 said:

Excessive vibration at a certain RPM is a sign of bad engine mounts. You need to decide whether the issue is with ignition system or the mounts. Does the vibration occur even if you accelerate in neutral? If so get someone to slowly accelerate and listen to exhaust sound for a miss in the engine beat. If you do not experience the vibration with gear in neutral but only when the drive is loaded then the problem is more likely to be with ignition system. Get the continuity of wires and coils tested just to be sure.

vib is comming in netutral too (bit lower than in D) idling after few seconds shifting from D to N. Anyway how to check the mounts good or bad in a proper way. not just looking at them?

[Rumesh88]

3 hours ago, asanka_rg said:

vib is comming in netutral too (bit lower than in D) idling after few seconds shifting from D to N. Anyway how to check the mounts good or bad in a proper way. not just looking at them?

Was your EGR valve inspected/tested during the last tune up? 

[Twin Turbo]

Is't it time you changed the plugs?