My New Ride : Mistubishi Lancer CS1 GLX (A/T) YOM 2007

[iRage]

Well...tere are good Japanese/Malaysian/etc...parts but those are also relatively pricey. Whether you should go with the non-genuine ones you quoted depends on a few factors:

1. How much did the agent quote ? What parts range did they quote for ? (there are two line up of parts..one that has higher life spans and thresholds for vehicles under warranty and owners who want to maintain a higher level of service outcome, and then another line that is for vehicles out of warranty with slightly lower service thresholds).

2. Typically more than the parts whats costs is the labor charge. Even if you get the above non-genuine parts you will still need to go to a good garage to do the repairs and they cost as much as the agent. Remember..you are trying to resurrect the car for reliable usage. So you cannot use shoddy mechanics. I don't think the agent allows outside parts in.

[Hyaenidae]

2 hours ago, iRage said:

Well...tere are good Japanese/Malaysian/etc...parts but those are also relatively pricey. Whether you should go with the non-genuine ones you quoted depends on a few factors:

1. How much did the agent quote ? What parts range did they quote for ? (there are two line up of parts..one that has higher life spans and thresholds for vehicles under warranty and owners who want to maintain a higher level of service outcome, and then another line that is for vehicles out of warranty with slightly lower service thresholds).

2. Typically more than the parts whats costs is the labor charge. Even if you get the above non-genuine parts you will still need to go to a good garage to do the repairs and they cost as much as the agent. Remember..you are trying to resurrect the car for reliable usage. So you cannot use shoddy mechanics. I don't think the agent allows outside parts in.

OEM parts pricing is just ridiculous sometimes. @K.o.N.o.S was quoted 17k for an OEM brake cylinder by the agent, the OEM one does cost more than 10k on eBay w/o shipping (from trustworthy europe based top-rated sellers) while the same brake cylinder made by Brembo could be bought for 5k-6k including shipping by sellers of the same caliber. Why? Brembo can't be making products inferior to whatever company makes OEM brake cylinders for Mitsubishi, right?

[kush]

6 hours ago, iRage said:

Well...tere are good Japanese/Malaysian/etc...parts but those are also relatively pricey. Whether you should go with the non-genuine ones you quoted depends on a few factors:

1. How much did the agent quote ? What parts range did they quote for ? (there are two line up of parts..one that has higher life spans and thresholds for vehicles under warranty and owners who want to maintain a higher level of service outcome, and then another line that is for vehicles out of warranty with slightly lower service thresholds).

2. Typically more than the parts whats costs is the labor charge. Even if you get the above non-genuine parts you will still need to go to a good garage to do the repairs and they cost as much as the agent. Remember..you are trying to resurrect the car for reliable usage. So you cannot use shoddy mechanics. I don't think the agent allows outside parts in.

I had a 2001 CS1 and the original front shocks gave in at 30K km and the agent quoted Rs. 54K. in 2003. Got down KYBs from T**S for Rs. 17K for both and they were good when I sold the car 4years later at 115K

Some times the agent rip you off on parts and repairs.

[iRage]

8 minutes ago, kush said:

I had a 2001 CS1 and the original front shocks gave in at 30K km and the agent quoted Rs. 54K. in 2003. Got down KYBs from T**S for Rs. 17K for both and they were good when I sold the car 4years later at 115K

Some times the agent rip you off on parts and repairs.

Again..depends on the part as well...if you take KYB, the manufacturer might use KYB themselves, however, what we get in SL might be compatible parts and not the exact replacement part KYB would supply the manufacturer. This was the case when I replaced the shocks for the Mark X. Also the case why a lot of Axio/Allion owners keep saying that their cars feel higher or harder after the KYB replacement. If you look at the EXACT replacement part (not a compatible one)..the price does go up (sadly), albeit not as much as the agents. Also, some parts, the 3rd party parts can actually be more expensive than the manufacturer's part. The thing is we in SL need to come to the realization that a part having the manufacturers' name printed on it does not mean it is the best for the car. Manufacturers' parts are designed/engineered to meet the minimal operational requirements of the car (parts having anything more than that means costs go higher and customers get turned away from the car model for being costly to maintain).   

[trinity]

13 hours ago, Menakec said:

Dear All,

Thank you very much for your replies. 

I understood that this is JDM MX-E model, but when searched no much information of option comparison between these models.

The car went through the inspection process today. Main outcomes were as follows

1. U*M can't identify mileage tampering since data on ECU related to this is not there. Mileage tampering must have been done some time back.

2. Replacement of below parts/spares which are usual running repairs except last two points.

      Oil pump o-ring, all hub bearings, rack ends, ball joints, stabilizer bar bush, shocks, balance bar bushes, brake caliper pins, timing belt, engine mount, ABS sensor, windscreen and seat cushioning. 

Need your opinion on below points

1. Agent quoted a sky rocketed price for the spares and repair which I believe is not mandatory for 13 year old car. 

I checked with Da*na*y*k motors and W*mal motors for parts, they both have brand new Japan parts from other brands, not the genuine mitsu part importing by agent.

Out of the above list, I can't afford to do complete list at once, so decided to go in the order of engine mount, ABS sensor, timing belt, suspension parts, windscreen (small crack) and seat cushioning. 

I need your advice on selection of spares for the car. Budget would be my contraint, but I do not want to have un-reliable parts on the car since it's daily rider around 100 Km per day. 

Above mentioned shops had below parts.

engine mounts (Rs. 6000 each)- Malaysian or Thailand available - No Jap available  - Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine one

Timing belt only (Rs. 4000 each) - Jap brand - Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine

Hub bearing, Ball joint, rack ends - Jap brand -  Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine

Bushes - Malaysian brand - Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine

Can you please provide your opinions on selecting the spares.

I'm intended to buying the car still, as most of these are running repairs.

I’ve used those aftermarket products on my CS many times. They do give up easily. Usually an engine mount will last about 20k kms, the bearings NSK brand will last about 25k rack ends more or less the same.

Replacing rack ends is a fairly easy job and you only have to get a wheel alignment done after that. So in my experience going for after market product is ok considering the original at the agent is too damn expensive.

However when it comes to engine mounts, and wheel bearings, it’s a different story, the labor cost for these are high. Also you’d have to spend a day at the garage to get it done, that’s if you are lucky. Now imagine busting engine mount, bearing and rack ends at very close intervals. You’d get fed up with the car easily. 

Ive experienced this at one point of my ownership of the car. 

The other thing is that for spares like timing belt, it’s always better not to substitute as failure could have adverse effects. 

If you are using the car for a longer period of time and as you say runs a lot, it would be much easier to get the following replaced with genuine ones. 

1. Timing belt

2. Bearings

3. Engine mounts

4. Brake caliper pins ( you can import these from Partsouq as well)

You can use recon imported part for lower arm bushes. You can buy an entire arm for like 6 - 7 k from Mahinda. These will last way more than the Tai parts. 

Rack end and tie rods use OEM.

Since your brake caliper pins and bearings are bad , there the option for buying the entire assembly from Mahinda. That way you’ll get, fairly new discs, entire brake assembly, Genuine bearings. 

I’ve replaced the entire rear arm set as well as rear brake assembly, bearings and the drum set under 20k in my CS back in 2018 before I sold the car. 

Windscreen is the issue, insurance won’t pay for recon ones and these after market windscreens are very low in quality. 

BTW, is this car white white an  SP number plate?

 

 

[Husny]

Can I find a good lancer cs 1 for 2 million rupees? Because that's my budget. My technical knowledge about vehicles is very very low. Only know to check OIL level and few other things. Currently using a Wagon R, 
I'm thinking of buying of Lancer cs1 as everyone says that it doesn't give any troubles at all, just fuel up and ride. (This is the main reason im convinced with going for a lancer)
Going for an upgrade in performance, but downgrade in budget.

Please advice guys. 

[Sylvi]

On 6/11/2020 at 6:11 PM, Menakec said:

Dear All,

I'm replying to this tread as this refers to buying a Lancer.

Please pardon me if I'm using the wrong thread.

After selling my previously used car, I was checking for a CS 3 triptronic car from some time back, but unfortunately that was not a success. Though few cars have been inspected, all of those are not acceptable condition.

I came across a CS 02 car very recently and I'm satisfied with the condition of the car.

Details of car as follows

Lancer CS 02 recondition model

Model No:- CS2A STJE 2

In the model number I understand "CS2ASTJE" part , but not the number 2.

 

 

[Sylvi]

2 minutes ago, Sylvi said:

 

Members, 

I am not advertising.

I noticed about W/S crack on one reply to this topic. If that member can show me the car or send me a reply with a picture, I will be able to advice for that problem.

Sylvester Wijesinghe

Sylvi.

[Devinda_Z]

14 hours ago, Husny said:

Can I find a good lancer cs 1 for 2 million rupees? Because that's my budget. My technical knowledge about vehicles is very very low. Only know to check OIL level and few other things. Currently using a Wagon R, 
I'm thinking of buying of Lancer cs1 as everyone says that it doesn't give any troubles at all, just fuel up and ride. (This is the main reason im convinced with going for a lancer)
Going for an upgrade in performance, but downgrade in budget.

Please advice guys. 

@Husny keep in mind that no matter how good a car the Lancer is, it's still a used vehicle not a brand new one so you're going to have to deal with various running repairs that are common with age/use.

If you want something virtually devoid of any major maintenance they you need to buy a car with tried, tested & proven technology brand new from a reputed agent with a long warranty ?

Is the Wagon R problematic??

 

[Husny]

7 hours ago, Devinda_Z said:

@Husny keep in mind that no matter how good a car the Lancer is, it's still a used vehicle not a brand new one so you're going to have to deal with various running repairs that are common with age/use.

If you want something virtually devoid of any major maintenance they you need to buy a car with tried, tested & proven technology brand new from a reputed agent with a long warranty ?

Is the Wagon R problematic??

 

Wagon r has pros and cons, its not hybrid though its said a hybrid, i dont know what hybrid gives and why people go for it. .coz if drive the wagonr with hi pickup, in traffic, then it does about 10kmpl only.. only if i go very slow and smoothm it will do about 15.. 

and wagonr maintenance is costly, insurance is 80+ coz the parts are very expensive and demanding. 

But wagon r is a superb car with zero issues, huge space inside. 

 

But I felt like I want to go for a salon model now, for a change and some other reasons.

Also I need to get a car for 2 million or less, so best option seemed to be the lancer cs 1.

 

What do you think I can do at the moment?

[Devinda_Z]

3 minutes ago, Husny said:

Wagon r has pros and cons, its not hybrid though its said a hybrid, i dont know what hybrid gives and why people go for it. .coz if drive the wagonr with hi pickup, in traffic, then it does about 10kmpl only.. only if i go very slow and smoothm it will do about 15.. 

and wagonr maintenance is costly, insurance is 80+ coz the parts are very expensive and demanding. 

But wagon r is a superb car with zero issues, huge space inside. 

 

But I felt like I want to go for a salon model now, for a change and some other reasons.

Also I need to get a car for 2 million or less, so best option seemed to be the lancer cs 1.

 

What do you think I can do at the moment?

Hmmm depends on your requirements and the priority you place on whatever those requirement are @Husny

Older cars will have all the same costs (be it a little less purely because the vehicle value will be lower) & additional costs like maintenance - wear & tear items

You need to budget for consumables and general wear items like tires, batteries, rubber bushes, shock absorbers, timing belt, spark plugs, filters, etc etc 

The list is long so it depends on what exactly you are hoping to achieve  

[Husny]

8 minutes ago, Devinda_Z said:

Hmmm depends on your requirements and the priority you place on whatever those requirement are @Husny

Older cars will have all the same costs (be it a little less purely because the vehicle value will be lower) & additional costs like maintenance - wear & tear items

You need to budget for consumables and general wear items like tires, batteries, rubber bushes, shock absorbers, timing belt, spark plugs, filters, etc etc 

The list is long so it depends on what exactly you are hoping to achieve  

thanks brother. I can spend for them, anyway i want to do this upgrade to a better performance car than wagon r. Do you think I can find a better lancer cs1 for 2 million rupees ?

[Menakec]

On 6/13/2020 at 1:19 PM, trinity said:

I’ve used those aftermarket products on my CS many times. They do give up easily. Usually an engine mount will last about 20k kms, the bearings NSK brand will last about 25k rack ends more or less the same.

Replacing rack ends is a fairly easy job and you only have to get a wheel alignment done after that. So in my experience going for after market product is ok considering the original at the agent is too damn expensive.

However when it comes to engine mounts, and wheel bearings, it’s a different story, the labor cost for these are high. Also you’d have to spend a day at the garage to get it done, that’s if you are lucky. Now imagine busting engine mount, bearing and rack ends at very close intervals. You’d get fed up with the car easily. 

Ive experienced this at one point of my ownership of the car. 

The other thing is that for spares like timing belt, it’s always better not to substitute as failure could have adverse effects. 

If you are using the car for a longer period of time and as you say runs a lot, it would be much easier to get the following replaced with genuine ones. 

1. Timing belt

2. Bearings

3. Engine mounts

4. Brake caliper pins ( you can import these from Partsouq as well)

You can use recon imported part for lower arm bushes. You can buy an entire arm for like 6 - 7 k from Mahinda. These will last way more than the Tai parts. 

Rack end and tie rods use OEM.

Since your brake caliper pins and bearings are bad , there the option for buying the entire assembly from Mahinda. That way you’ll get, fairly new discs, entire brake assembly, Genuine bearings. 

I’ve replaced the entire rear arm set as well as rear brake assembly, bearings and the drum set under 20k in my CS back in 2018 before I sold the car. 

Windscreen is the issue, insurance won’t pay for recon ones and these after market windscreens are very low in quality. 

BTW, is this car white white an  SP number plate?

 

 

Hi All,

Thanks for helping me out with my CS 02.

I'm about to buy the required spares for the car during this weekend, namely

Engine mounts, timing belt - Getting from agent 

Rack ends, Hub bearing, Ball joint, Bushes - Please suggest good Japanese reliable brand & reliable place to buy

 Front two shocks - KYB brand - Is this good alternative solution and where to buy genuine parts?

Can you please suggest reliable Japanese brand for mentioned suspension parts and reliable place to buy those?

Most of the mechanics are complaining that the part quality differs a lot even though those are Japanese and propose to use 555 brand. Is it a good brand for suspension parts?

@trinity Mine is white CS 02 bearing wp number plate. 

[Devinda_Z]

20 hours ago, Menakec said:

Hi All,

Thanks for helping me out with my CS 02.

I'm about to buy the required spares for the car during this weekend, namely

Engine mounts, timing belt - Getting from agent 

Rack ends, Hub bearing, Ball joint, Bushes - Please suggest good Japanese reliable brand & reliable place to buy

 Front two shocks - KYB brand - Is this good alternative solution and where to buy genuine parts?

Can you please suggest reliable Japanese brand for mentioned suspension parts and reliable place to buy those?

Most of the mechanics are complaining that the part quality differs a lot even though those are Japanese and propose to use 555 brand. Is it a good brand for suspension parts?

@trinity Mine is white CS 02 bearing wp number plate. 

KYB is fine - get them directly from TAAS Agencies at Hyde Park Corner / Ibbangwala Junction

 

Check the Unit#d Mot#rs genuine part prices as well - sometimes they end up being better value for money than unknown aftermarket parts that aren't exactly durable 

 555 is reputed locally but I can't speak for the longevity 

Keep in mind there are additional costs to factor - if you repair your steering rack, or do any changes to the front suspension your suspension geometry may change which means ideally you should be planning to carry out wheel alignment post repair as well. There is obviously a cost associated with this. If you use substandard parts and then end up having to repeat the repair the additional cost of the labour +parts+ alignment should not be forgotten

145 Majeed Place, Orugodawatte.
Colombo - 09.
0114614917

Head Office & Parts Outlet
100, Hyde Park Corner,
Colombo - 02.
Tel :5333306

Branch Offices/Parts Outlets
Panchikawatta Branch
325, Welgama Building ,
Sangaraja Mawatha,
Colombo - 10.
0114715402

[Sampath Gunasekera]

12+ (Corrected the post)

Edited July 3, 2020 by Sampath Gunasekera

[Hyaenidae]

  

On 5/10/2017 at 12:41 AM, Sampath Gunasekera said:

On my way, I accidently found this 9 years old girl and could not miss her even she was a CS1.

Hence settled with her within a week.

 

17 minutes ago, Sampath Gunasekera said:

13+

You had to use the plus didn't you?

Perhaps it's my mind that is in the gutter but you sound jailbait-y whenever you mention her age ?

[Sampath Gunasekera]

18 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

  

 

You had to use the plus didn't you?

Perhaps it's my mind that is in the gutter but you sound jailbait-y whenever you mention her age ?

Ah, sorry ,it should be 12+ .Sorry for my mistake and corrected the post. Anyway you are thinking on her age too much than I do .?

Edited July 3, 2020 by Sampath Gunasekera

[Menakec]

High rpm of Lancer CS 02

In my car, lancer CS 2 EFI one, mgf in 2007, I observed below issues while driving.

1. High rpm (1100 rpm) when at idling and running in low speeds (most of the times in idling and running below 20 km/h, seldomly it becomes normal level of 700 rpm when at idling)

2. Small Vibration of car when increasing speed for 10- 60 km/h - mostly experienced when increasing speed after stopping.

3. Fuel consumption of 12.5 km/h on highway driving between 80-100 km/h - which I feel quite low.

Can you please provide your opinions on what the issue could be, will tune up provide a solution?

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 using AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk

[Davy]

25 minutes ago, Menakec said:

High rpm of Lancer CS 02

In my car, lancer CS 2 EFI one, mgf in 2007, I observed below issues while driving.

1. High rpm (1100 rpm) when at idling and running in low speeds (most of the times in idling and running below 20 km/h, seldomly it becomes normal level of 700 rpm when at idling)

2. Small Vibration of car when increasing speed for 10- 60 km/h - mostly experienced when increasing speed after stopping.

3. Fuel consumption of 12.5 km/h on highway driving between 80-100 km/h - which I feel quite low.

Can you please provide your opinions on what the issue could be, will tune up provide a solution?

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 using AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk
 

1. When you start the car in the morning (AC off), does the RPM rise to around 1500 and slowly return to around 700 as the engine warms up? Or does it settle at 1100? Also, when this happens, stop the car and let it idle with the AC on and observe if the fluctuation happens with the AC compressor engaging on and off. If the answer to any of the above questions is "no", then it's likely that you have a sticking or faulty Idle Air Control Valve. If you haven't done a fuel system cleanup (i.e "tuneup") recently, then I suggest getting one done first. 

2. Difficult to say without actually taking it for a test drive. But is the vibration coming from the front of the car? Maybe check if one or more of the wheel balancing weights have fallen off - this is probably the most simplest thing to check. Just do a wheel balance and that will address any balancing issues if there are any.

3. Marginally low I would say. Is this an automatic? And did you carry out the full tank to full tank method to calculate fuel consumption?  

Looking at issues 1 and 3, if you haven't got tune done recently, it's best you get one done. Get the throttle body cleaned up (be extra careful not to damage the IACV as spraying TB cleaner directly will most definitely damage it). Get the injectors cleaned and check the condition of your air and fuel filters and spark plugs and replace as necessary.

[Menakec]

Thank you for the guidance provided.
I did tune up last week, but after the tune up following observation was made by myself. Car is CS 2 auto EFI one mgf in 2007.

Now car's idel is at 1000 rpm (with A/C). When the car is at Parking gear and steering wheel is turned, there's little revv and idel up by around 200 points. When the steering wheel is released it comes to normal idel level.

This is slightly seen when the car is at Drive gear.

Is this normal for Mitsubishi cars, I have not seen this in Toyota or Nissan.

Appreciate your feedbacks

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 using AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk

[Hyaenidae]

12 minutes ago, Menakec said:

Thank you for the guidance provided.
I did tune up last week, but after the tune up following observation was made by myself. Car is CS 2 auto EFI one mgf in 2007.

Now car's idel is at 1000 rpm (with A/C). When the car is at Parking gear and steering wheel is turned, there's little revv and idel up by around 200 points. When the steering wheel is released it comes to normal idel level.

Idle speed should be 750±50 when all electrical loads are off (AC, Lights) and the engine has reached operating temperature. 

Edited July 18, 2020 by Hyaenidae

[Menakec]

46 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

Idle speed should be 750±50 when all electrical loads are off (AC, Lights) and the engine has reached operating temperature. 

Thank you.
It's currently around 900 while A/C is off and 1000 with A/C.
Any guidance on idel up once steering wheel is turned ?

[Hyaenidae]

40 minutes ago, Menakec said:

Any guidance on idel up once steering wheel is turned ?

That's normal, just like the AC compressor, the power steering pump causes idle to go up. The PS pump activates when you turn the steering wheel.

 However idling at 900rpm when there is no additional load and the engine is at operating temperature doesn't sound normal.

[Davy]

8 hours ago, Menakec said:

Thank you for the guidance provided.
I did tune up last week, but after the tune up following observation was made by myself. Car is CS 2 auto EFI one mgf in 2007.

Now car's idel is at 1000 rpm (with A/C). When the car is at Parking gear and steering wheel is turned, there's little revv and idel up by around 200 points. When the steering wheel is released it comes to normal idel level.

This is slightly seen when the car is at Drive gear.

Is this normal for Mitsubishi cars, I have not seen this in Toyota or Nissan.

Appreciate your feedbacks

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 using AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk
 

If the battery was disconnected during the tune up, the higher RPM could be due to the ECU being reset. Driving a few dozen kilometres should cause the RPM to settle. 

It's normal for the RPM to fluctuate slightly when load on the engine changes (i.e AC compressor or steering activity). 200 is above what I would call normal, but this too could be due to the ECU re-learning. 

Just out of curiosity, what was done as part of the tune up? Was the Idle Air Control Valve cleaned? 

[Menakec]

On 7/19/2020 at 6:47 AM, Davy said:

If the battery was disconnected during the tune up, the higher RPM could be due to the ECU being reset. Driving a few dozen kilometres should cause the RPM to settle. 

It's normal for the RPM to fluctuate slightly when load on the engine changes (i.e AC compressor or steering activity). 200 is above what I would call normal, but this too could be due to the ECU re-learning. 

Just out of curiosity, what was done as part of the tune up? Was the Idle Air Control Valve cleaned? 

During tune up, throttle body was cleaned. They mentioned that injectors and IACV has also cleaned, but I could not be physical be at location while this goes on. Plugs and air filter has been replaced.

Fuel filter not cleaned, which I have to get done by some other time within next months.

Shall I adjust idle rpm and see how things goes on