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My New Ride : Mistubishi Lancer CS1 GLX (A/T) YOM 2007


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Maintenance Update:

Mileage:  147,325km

Recently I replaced tyres and wheel balancing with wheel alignment (front wheels only) done.

Last Friday I observed an oil leakage and a broken boot. By December 2021, car has been used for 14 years and now I see mainly issues appear with rubber parts which under go natural weaken/decay due time factor irrespective of the mileage done. I always try to replace genuine rubber parts even they are costly but keep long last.

Taken car to the agents and was lucky to do a list of repairs within the day.

(1)    Power steering oil hose replaced ( Part No.: MR510411) and power steering oil replaced

(2)    Replaced right side rack end boot (previously had after market one) – Part No: MR297971

(3)    Replaced Rocker cover gasket (due to oil leakage) – Part No.: MD342281

(4)    Replaced Air Filter – MR552951 (The recently installed VIC air filter was shorter in width and did not mount well and started to absorb air from the gap and two technicians pointed out it just by listening engine sound.) I used this VIC part number in the past and (slight dimension change was there) This time unit has a huge deviation in dimensions.

(5)    Wheel alignment done (all four wheels)

(6)    Normal service done (changed engine oil with oil filter , washing and interior cleaning)

It was a costly and tired day , but was happy as I could done all jobs within one day.

Photos:

(1)    Power steering oil hose replaced ( Part No.: MR510411) and power steering oil replaced1.thumb.jpg.6f91387bc40498dd53231e45da09fb39.jpg3.thumb.jpg.6a51abdd85347dd17b27ded92d0d65ec.jpg4.thumb.jpg.170ddfbdca50acb12127b7d49aff701e.jpg5.thumb.jpg.c103fc27a23231c55c211810fe4ee9b5.jpg

(2)    Replaced right side rack end boot (previously had after market one) – Part No: MR297971

2.thumb.jpg.46a6fe3e6661746640bc83702d8eb2aa.jpg6.thumb.jpg.340dbec7dd7bd1adcdac57823260d1f4.jpg7.thumb.jpg.77540e94ba6527cd314e926ab26384e9.jpg

(3)    Replaced Rocker cover gasket (due to oil leakage) – Part No.: MD342281

8.thumb.jpg.51279493067a13bd255abff972475cde.jpg9.thumb.jpg.fe246c6510db444404b1a8dc090c8350.jpg10.thumb.jpg.c562102f6425de3a6c0a1597a0bc05d0.jpg11.thumb.jpg.b802fc059d1306566621384645d207a4.jpg12.thumb.jpg.642dc44fff36c2233b4d01c34da04a86.jpg

(4)    Replaced Air Filter – MR552951

13.thumb.jpg.5f690aa8e13b2c4ae2de3a38f0eea612.jpg14.thumb.jpg.9c201110746ad323eedaffbc978f349a.jpg

(5)    Wheel alignment done (all four wheels)

15.thumb.jpg.8f8fbcac94d05f754d472b853c88eb1c.jpg16.thumb.jpg.7b047f56886b4b695641e68f36f6a322.jpg

(6)    Normal service done (changed engine oil with oil filter , washing and interior cleaning)

17.thumb.jpg.dbdae57fdd19f7f1167a5ce32b7d961c.jpg18.thumb.jpg.f2b53eb84147ef6cf95f6e4331ee8afd.jpg19.thumb.jpg.c978ec777fb2c49a5a78ec8ac3151ac4.jpg20.thumb.jpg.673f2c607f5008927325372172067c6e.jpg21.thumb.jpg.42af7f1ebf6fdfa563404d29c1d28fef.jpg22.thumb.jpg.95224db7c412274a6f2b460e22fcb753.jpg

Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Wow that price for the power steering hose! 🤑

I had a similar leak on the same hose when I had my CS3 and fabricated a new hose for around Rs. 500 several years ago. The banjo fittings on either end were crimped onto a new hose. :) 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi experienced lancer owners ☺️,

I'm just a newbie to this whole Mitsubishi Lancer thread. Just bought a CS1 as my 1st car around 2 weeks back. I was able to find an unmolested Manual Transmission Lancer CS1 2007 manufactured . Just after the purchase, I did the engine tune-up from a popular garage for engines. Because when i was buying it, The car was not good at acceleration at all & i inspected several cs1 s for sale i was able to notice the low acceleration and misfires quickly. After the tuneup, the car came up to my expectations.

I'm still struggling to calculate the average fuel consumption. After the tuneup, I full tanked the car and drove 345 Kilometers City ( around 80KM ) and Highway ( around 265km ) and the fuel guage showed 2/3 of petrol is consumed.
When i calculated the average fuel consumption, it was 10.45 kmpl. Since fuel tank is 50ltrs, and 2/3 of tank is 33.3Ltrs, 345/33.3 = 10.36.
 
According to below image can someone confirm the fuel guage indicates that it has consumed 2/3 of the fuel tank which is 33ltrs ? And another 16.6Ltrs is remaining? 
image.thumb.png.a4478ec385cb70b7975a02b1e825086c.png

However, due to my old driving habits, On the highway, I drove at 100Kmph @ 3000rpm . For very few minutes may be at 120 , 130 (@ 4000rpm max ) whenever I was confident enough to do so. Even in Colombo I revved it up to 5000 rpm just to enjoy the car when accelerating.

From your experience, could you please let me know at what RPM and speed you get the best milage in city / highway / outstatation ? This would help me to calm down my driving style as well. I have many more questions. Will post here one by one later on. ^_^

TIA.

Edited by AsteriX
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On 4/27/2023 at 2:50 AM, AsteriX said:

Hi experienced lancer owners ☺️,

I'm just a newbie to this whole Mitsubishi Lancer thread. Just bought a CS1 as my 1st car around 2 weeks back. I was able to find an unmolested Manual Transmission Lancer CS1 2007 manufactured . Just after the purchase, I did the engine tune-up from a popular garage for engines. Because when i was buying it, The car was not good at acceleration at all & i inspected several cs1 s for sale i was able to notice the low acceleration and misfires quickly. After the tuneup, the car came up to my expectations.

I'm still struggling to calculate the average fuel consumption. After the tuneup, I full tanked the car and drove 345 Kilometers City ( around 80KM ) and Highway ( around 265km ) and the fuel guage showed 2/3 of petrol is consumed.
When i calculated the average fuel consumption, it was 10.45 kmpl. Since fuel tank is 50ltrs, and 2/3 of tank is 33.3Ltrs, 345/33.3 = 10.36.
 
According to below image can someone confirm the fuel guage indicates that it has consumed 2/3 of the fuel tank which is 33ltrs ? And another 16.6Ltrs is remaining? 
image.thumb.png.a4478ec385cb70b7975a02b1e825086c.png

However, due to my old driving habits, On the highway, I drove at 100Kmph @ 3000rpm . For very few minutes may be at 120 , 130 (@ 4000rpm max ) whenever I was confident enough to do so. Even in Colombo I revved it up to 5000 rpm just to enjoy the car when accelerating.

From your experience, could you please let me know at what RPM and speed you get the best milage in city / highway / outstatation ? This would help me to calm down my driving style as well. I have many more questions. Will post here one by one later on. ^_^

TIA.

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the purchase !
I strongly recommend that you start your own thread ! We would love to see tons of pics and your story with the car :) So..yes..it deserves its own thread.

As for fuel consumption....the best way to calculate fuel consumption is fill the tank up (until the auto stop clicks the hand pump off). Then drive for a few km (either drive 100km or a fair distance), then fill up the tank (again to the to point where the auto cut off stops the pump). Now you will see how much petrol was consumed to travel the distance you have put on the meter.

You can't go by the fuel gauge level. These analog systems are not accurate and not linear.

As for the rev range that gives you best economy...well..there is no hard and fast rule. It depends on the car (specifications, conditions, etc..) and the situation. Usually, most people will say best is to keep it somewhere around 1200 ish (when cruising) - 2500ish...but again..it totally depends on how the car is geared and where you have torque.

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On 4/26/2023 at 11:20 PM, AsteriX said:

From your experience, could you please let me know at what RPM and speed you get the best milage in city / highway / outstatation ?

Congratulations on your purchase.

 

Each car has its own "sweet spot" when it comes to fuel consumption. You will find a rev range where the engine "feels" happy. You actually feel that the engine likes to hang around that spot. Minimum strain, least noise, least vibration, least harshness. Just keep driving for some time and you'll instinctively know what the sweet spot is. It's purely orgasmic to cruise at that RPM. Take it slow and take time to bond with your car.

 

This is specially true for cars of this vintage where different components like the distributor, plug leads, spark plugs, injectors replaces with non-factory parts at different intervals and the general wear and tear makes each car unique. What works for another car of the same make and model with the same milage might not work for you.

 

On 4/26/2023 at 11:20 PM, AsteriX said:

I'm still struggling to calculate the average fuel consumption.

Use this method

1. Fill up the tank till petrol just starts to overflow from the overflow/breather hose.

2. Zero the trip meter. (Or note down the Odo or do both)

3. Drive till about half of the tank is empty. This doesn't have to be exact. Just drive a significant distance that reflects how your usual commute is.

4. Drive to a petrol shed.

5. Calculate how many miles you drove since the previous full tank. Let the distance be d (in km)

6. Fill the tank till petrol just starts to overflow. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUMP EXCESS.

7. Note the volume of petrol you pumped. Let this be v (in L)

8. Calculate the fuel efficiency in km/L by

FE = d/v

9. Sit down and cry

10. Wipe your tears and say "It's totally worth the pleasure of driving" and smile.

Repeat steps 1 through 10

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On 4/28/2023 at 8:06 AM, varotone said:

Congratulations on your purchase.

 

Each car has its own "sweet spot" when it comes to fuel consumption. You will find a rev range where the engine "feels" happy. You actually feel that the engine likes to hang around that spot. Minimum strain, least noise, least vibration, least harshness. Just keep driving for some time and you'll instinctively know what the sweet spot is. It's purely orgasmic to cruise at that RPM. Take it slow and take time to bond with your car.

 

This is specially true for cars of this vintage where different components like the distributor, plug leads, spark plugs, injectors replaces with non-factory parts at different intervals and the general wear and tear makes each car unique. What works for another car of the same make and model with the same milage might not work for you.

 

Use this method

1. Fill up the tank till petrol just starts to overflow from the overflow/breather hose.

2. Zero the trip meter. (Or note down the Odo or do both)

3. Drive till about half of the tank is empty. This doesn't have to be exact. Just drive a significant distance that reflects how your usual commute is.

4. Drive to a petrol shed.

5. Calculate how many miles you drove since the previous full tank. Let the distance be d (in km)

6. Fill the tank till petrol just starts to overflow. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUMP EXCESS.

7. Note the volume of petrol you pumped. Let this be v (in L)

8. Calculate the fuel efficiency in km/L by

FE = d/v

9. Sit down and cry

10. Wipe your tears and say "It's totally worth the pleasure of driving" and smile.

Repeat steps 1 through 10

Thank you mr. Highly appreciate your reply. 

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On 4/28/2023 at 6:02 AM, iRage said:

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the purchase !
I strongly recommend that you start your own thread ! We would love to see tons of pics and your story with the car :) So..yes..it deserves its own thread.

As for fuel consumption....the best way to calculate fuel consumption is fill the tank up (until the auto stop clicks the hand pump off). Then drive for a few km (either drive 100km or a fair distance), then fill up the tank (again to the to point where the auto cut off stops the pump). Now you will see how much petrol was consumed to travel the distance you have put on the meter.

You can't go by the fuel gauge level. These analog systems are not accurate and not linear.

As for the rev range that gives you best economy...well..there is no hard and fast rule. It depends on the car (specifications, conditions, etc..) and the situation. Usually, most people will say best is to keep it somewhere around 1200 ish (when cruising) - 2500ish...but again..it totally depends on how the car is geared and where you have torque.

Thank you mr. I should try the both methods you and verotone mentioned. and yeah will defenitely will start a new thread ^_^

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On 4/26/2023 at 11:20 PM, AsteriX said:

Just bought a CS1 as my 1st car around 2 weeks back. I was able to find an unmolested Manual Transmission Lancer CS1 2007

You seem to have good taste in cars as you have with comics. Welcome to the forum. Would love to read more about your car and maybe look at some pics.  A Lancer CS was something i regret not buying as my daily when I had the chance. Although I'm too lazy now to be driving stick as my daily I have massive respect for people who do. 

As for your fuel consumption test - These meters are NOT accurate. go for the Liters per 100 Km method. Fill up the car. Make sure the pump attendant stops at the cutoff point. Drive 100Km. Fill up again to the cutoff. See how many Liters you pumped. Example - 8 L per 100 KM ... 100/8 = 12.5 KM/L. 

As I said - we'd love to read more about your lancer - start a blog or a new thread you can even have a cool title - 'Asterix and the <<insert color of your car>>Lancer' has a nice ring to it. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/1/2023 at 1:21 PM, matroska said:

You seem to have good taste in cars as you have with comics. Welcome to the forum. Would love to read more about your car and maybe look at some pics.  A Lancer CS was something i regret not buying as my daily when I had the chance. Although I'm too lazy now to be driving stick as my daily I have massive respect for people who do. 

As for your fuel consumption test - These meters are NOT accurate. go for the Liters per 100 Km method. Fill up the car. Make sure the pump attendant stops at the cutoff point. Drive 100Km. Fill up again to the cutoff. See how many Liters you pumped. Example - 8 L per 100 KM ... 100/8 = 12.5 KM/L. 

As I said - we'd love to read more about your lancer - start a blog or a new thread you can even have a cool title - 'Asterix and the <<insert color of your car>>Lancer' has a nice ring to it. 

Thank you for your kind words! I will definitely start a new thread as soon as possible 😊

I might sound lame on this, I'm just curious about this as i've seen many people have mentioned this thing.. "Make sure the pump attendant stops at the cutoff point" is this where we hear the pump stops ? and any specific reason why we shouldn't allow the attendant to fill it up beyond that cutoff 😬

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1 hour ago, AsteriX said:

"Make sure the pump attendant stops at the cutoff point" is this where we hear the pump stops ? and any specific reason why we shouldn't allow the attendant to fill it up beyond that cutoff 😬?

Yes...when you pump fuel at some point the pump handle will go Thud and stop. You should not fill beyond that point.

Your car has what is called the EVAP system (Evaporative Emission Control System). It is used to stop gasoline fumes from entering the environment. Fuel vapor from the engine and the fuel tank circulates through the system (so there are pipes and hoses from the fuel tank and the fuel tank filler pipe connecting them to the EVAP system). It has a few chambers and a charcoal canister which captures petrol fumes and filters them so when the fumes enter the outside environment the petrol smell is removed. When the system fails you will smell gasoline after running the car or when it is left out for a long time even when there isn't a gas leak. When the system fails there might be slight fuel pressure issues as well, especially in old manual based systems. New systems are electronically controlled, that is why in some modern cars you hear a small buzz like a pump running a few minutes after the car has been turned off.

 

When you over fill the tank, what happens is that the extra fuel goes in to the EVAP system through the pipes/hoses that connect the fuel tank to the system. When this happens fuel can get stuck in the chambers of the EVAP system and make the system not work properly. As it keeps happening over again, this eventually makes the charcoal in the canister to go bad. So the system gets even worst. Then you will start getting the fuel smell all/most of the time. In most countries, if the EVAP system is broken and the fume smell is there it fails road inspection tests (not in SL as we don't care). Also, now there might be fuel related issues because one of the components in the entire fuel system is not working properly.

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