Honda Civic 2018

[Dee Jay]

9 minutes ago, Eagle Eye said:

@Dee Jay, Idle stop does not get engaged always, I guess that is when compressor is running. During idle engine stop, engine restarts when compressor is needed for cooling. It's logical, isn't it.

Yes, if the cabin temperature increases beyond a certain limit the engine will kick in for the compressor to work and to cool down the cabin.. But, what got me interested was your start stop system working again after the AC repair.. to see if there is a connection like the AC or blowers running via the power from the auxiliary battery..

[Eagle Eye]

7 minutes ago, Dee Jay said:

Yes, if the cabin temperature increases beyond a certain limit the engine will kick in for the compressor to work and to cool down the cabin.. But, what got me interested was your start stop system working again after the AC repair.. to see if there is a connection like the AC or blowers running via the power from the auxiliary battery..

I can confirm that the blower was running at idle stop engaged while A/C was on. I felt that the compressor wasn't engaged at that time. What previously happened may be that the compressor had engaged almost fulltime due to poor cooling, though I did not feel "hot" the compressor may have been working overtime to keep me "cool".

[GWX777]

19 minutes ago, Eagle Eye said:

The important point is, do not jump into conclusion to replace the battery just because Idle Stop does not engage.

Can’t agree more.

If you are aware, there are about 20+ checks done by the car to engage idle stop. It even checks for the Barometric air pressure.

[Eagle Eye]

1 minute ago, GWX777 said:

Can’t agree more.

If you are aware, there are about 20+ checks done by the car to engage idle stop. It even checks for the Barometric air pressure.

Well, this is not how St*ff*rd advise. ?

[GWX777]

4 hours ago, misnad said:

I’m not sure about both refrigerants co-existing together however you can completely replace the r1234yf with r134a by the looks of it (assuming the manufacturer gives the green light). The issue is that both fluids operate at different pressures so having a mixture of the two in the same unit might be troublesome. The issue is whether the service stations here actually will empty out the previous refrigerant using their extractor machines or do a shoddy job at it and leave some of the old stuff in.

 

On another note, I’ve discovered something weird with the Civic. So I had to replace all 4 brake pads at the company (didn’t want to risk cheaper or knock-off aftermarket calipers) at a spine-tingling 78k. There was a horrible grinding sound from the wheels even when coasting so got that done before my rotors wasted out. Now remember when I said I needed to replace my car battery as the indicator showed the idle stop system couldn’t activate due to low charge? Well, for some weird reason it seems to have disappeared now and keeps activating like it did before without fail! Now I’m not sure this might be because there is less braking force required to come to a complete stop now (with the new pads and all), but this is just mind-boggling to me right now. Anyway, it’s going to be fun switching off the darned idle stop each time I start up the car now. On the plus side, I don’t need a new battery! New normal, I guess ?

@misnad well the oil used in the compressor for R134a is PAG and for 1234yf is POE. there's a difference. So if someone is fully aware of that those oil can work interchangeably, advise not to go for blind swap of R1234yf with R134a.

[GWX777]

51 minutes ago, RWD said:

did you ever get your brake pads cleaned during services? I don't service at Stafford but every time I do a service the garage would remove the pads and give it a good old cleaning, they were always coated with brake dust. 78K seems way too much- isn't that more than most Euros?

78K is way too much for both pad sets.

In UK Genuine front set cost about 60GBP and rear set cost about 50GBP. So cost would be roughly 110GBP = ~26,000 LKR (today's rate)

if these can be brought down, I'm sure, there'll be many to buy these.

Also, Brembo brake pads are available to buy in SL. Front pads were about 11K. Check BremboSriLanka fb page.

[RWD]

48 minutes ago, GWX777 said:

78K is way too much for both pad sets.

In UK Genuine front set cost about 60GBP and rear set cost about 50GBP. So cost would be roughly 110GBP = ~26,000 LKR (today's rate)

if these can be brought down, I'm sure, there'll be many to buy these.

Also, Brembo brake pads are available to buy in SL. Front pads were about 11K. Check BremboSriLanka fb page.

if these are genuine then its definitely a good deal. I may opt for these when its time to change mine.

[iRage]

2 hours ago, RWD said:

if these are genuine then its definitely a good deal. I may opt for these when its time to change mine.

another alternative would be ProjectMu. Have them on the Trueno (with Dixell rotors). Love them...got a nice bite to them..also the pads are low dust pads. I believe @Magnumhas them on his HiAce or something as well ?

[Devinda_Z]

10 hours ago, GK_007 said:

Agree that not a good idea to cut corners with brakes, still I would have second thoughts on that price. May I know the mileage of the car ? 

 

3 hours ago, iRage said:

another alternative would be ProjectMu. Have them on the Trueno (with Dixell rotors). Love them...got a nice bite to them..also the pads are low dust pads. I believe @Magnumhas them on his HiAce or something as well ?

@Eagle Eye I agree with you fully about not cutting corners with the brakes - in fact it's the first thing anyone interesting upgrading or "modifying" their car should look at IMO!

That said, the price is eye watering 

I'm with @iRage on this and have discussed this on another thread as well - stock brakes from manufacturers are meant to be decent all-rounders so there are compromises made in terms of bite, feel, grip/friction, longevity, volume, dust level etc etc

If you're a keen driver, chances are you will notice the subtleties of how the brakes feel.

The way to not get shafted for future reference is to go for a reputed high end aftermarket brand . Some can be bought here as @GWX777 rightly mentioned with Brembo available at Semini Motors & Dixcel through @Abbas J or alternatively look at simply ordering online.

I'm a fan of STOPTECH personally - wear is heavy on the pad & disk but if you are an aggressive driver its a price well worth paying

[Senalw]

6 hours ago, RWD said:

if these are genuine then its definitely a good deal. I may opt for these when its time to change mine.

I bought genuine front and rear both break pads for 53k from tech motors, Panchikawatte. 78k is too much. 

[misnad]

The idle-stop ceased engaging way before the lockdown, but a battery load test revealed it to retain good charge and discharge rates and the voltage was spot-on too. This was at Br*wn’s and they polished up the terminals as there was a slight white corrosion build-up. Had the same issue again right after and it only went away properly after replacing the brake pads yesterday. The car was run and moved around every 3 days during the lockdown too so that kept the battery going.

As for the brakes, I noticed the rust build-up on rotors during the lockdown despite moving the car and engaging the brakes (I didn’t have much space to move the car though as there was a full-on police checkpoint right outside my gate). The familiar brake-music started about a week after lockdown ceased when I started driving more frequently, but was only on brake application. The weird grinding during coasting started up a few days back suddenly and it may have been a bad brake bind (rear brakes only though). Kept getting worse until it nearly gave me a headache!

I thought of the Brembo, but wasn’t sure if it was genuine. The last thing I’d want is something to eat into my rotors due to its suitability for more aggressive braking requirements or perhaps uneven wear depending on authenticity. 78k was steep however I do recall paying roughly 22k for the rear pair of genuine brake liners on my old 2007 Axio before and that wasn’t at the company (was at Mr. Potato Estate‘s). In any case, tyres and brakes are two things I wouldn’t cheap out on especially after spending circa 7mn on a car. I dread the day I need to change the tyres though!
 

I used to get the car serviced at the agent so I’ve no idea if they ever dusted the brakes. Although I do wash the car weekly and that area gets a good wash-through. The last time I washed it after the squealing noise, I got a whole load of brake dust draining out. I guess the rust accelerated its demise. Now that I think of it, I did use the Meguiar’s Ultimate All Wheel Cleaner that is supposed to dissolve brake dust and iron contaminants (the one that turns purple-red after spraying) intermittently (Every 2 to 3 weeks) with washes. I accidentally used to get some on the rotors and could notice rust build up pretty quick after that so I’m not sure if it had anything to do with the wastage. Mileage is at 22k km so far up to the brake change.

 

On another note, the car seems to want to suck me dry this month. Just got the “service due” indicator flash up and also a warning to change the key-fob battery. For the service, if the air filter is due for replacement I’ll probably go with a K&N from M*t*rcade. I’ll most likely service the car at H*br*d H*b this time and get a full wash up done at Kl**nP*rk especially for the undercarriage (there’s a load of red sand that’s stuck everywhere after my road-trip to Jaffna in January despite frequent washes afterwards).
 

By the way, anyone thought of wrapping their Civic with vinyl? Had this little itch to get a matte psychedelic color wrap ?. Any idea about pricing for full body wraps, it’s effect on paint, etc.?

[Kavvz]

5 hours ago, Devinda_Z said:

 

@Eagle Eye I agree with you fully about not cutting corners with the brakes - in fact it's the first thing anyone interesting upgrading or "modifying" their car should look at IMO!

I'm a fan of STOPTECH personally - wear is heavy on the pad & disk but if you are an aggressive driver its a price well worth paying

Definately agree! Brakes are often overlooked....Never used the STOPTECH brand, will keep an eye out for it next time I buy pads. Thanks @Devinda_Z

2 hours ago, misnad said:

.......For the service, if the air filter is due for replacement I’ll probably go with a K&N from M*t*rcade.

While K&N is proven to be less restrictive (more airflow), its also worth noting that they do let in more dust and particles. Also the increased airflow only results in a 3-5hp or so gain, which for regular road use is negligible, and is a gain you probably won't even notice (verify it yourself via google and youtube). So for everyday use on our roads K&N filters may not be the best choice and the extra money spent could be used else where to better effect (on better brake pads?  ) 

Edited June 18, 2020 by Kavvz

[Kavvz]

12 hours ago, GWX777 said:

Also, Brembo brake pads are available to buy in SL. Front pads were about 11K. Check BremboSriLanka fb page.

Bought Brembo pads about a month or so pre-COVID lockdown (was super stoked to see them available for my car and since they were only slightly more expensive than the OEM pads I forked out the extra dough) but I haven't noticed a huge difference. Probably will just go back to OEM next time.

My hypothesis= These 'brembo' pads are as good as regular OEM pads, and by themselves are nothing special.

Don't expect these pads to make a huge difference when coupled with your stock calipers. Definately buy them if you can afford them, but no big deal either way.

Am I bitter? Nopes. Just wish I had fancy brembo multi-piston calipers as well  

Edited June 18, 2020 by Kavvz

[Magnum]

On 6/18/2020 at 10:56 PM, iRage said:

another alternative would be ProjectMu. Have them on the Trueno (with Dixell rotors). Love them...got a nice bite to them..also the pads are low dust pads. I believe @Magnumhas them on his HiAce or something as well ?

I will get it once my current pads wear out. I'm not sure if Dixcel makes pads mostly for JDM cars so i'm not sure if they will have anything for the UKDM Civic

[vitz]

Guys,

I am wondering why Civic 2018 is a kind of deviation to the good track record of the reliability of HONDA. Country of origin (UK) has anything to do with that?

I am commenting on this with the background of rock solid rigidity of the GP1 (except the inherent oil burning issue). We used our GP1 for 170,000 km with just only regular oil/air filter change (minimum maintenance). Only issue came was that front links had to be replace. Many of my colleagues used Hondas had similar experiences.

 

 

[Dee Jay]

10 minutes ago, vitz said:

I am wondering why Civic 2018 is a kind of deviation to the good track record of the reliability of HONDA. Country of origin (UK) has anything to do with that?

Is there anymore issues other than the famous AC condenser issue for the Civic X??

Yes, country of origin (UK) could be a contributory factor.. but, sadly we don't get to see the JDM Civic X that much here in SL due to the absurd tax structure  otherwise, that 1.5 Turbo unit would've been a pleasure to drive among the boring Toyota models we find at the moment..

Edited June 19, 2020 by Dee Jay

[Devinda_Z]

 

18 hours ago, Kavvz said:

Definately agree! Brakes are often overlooked....Never used the STOPTECH brand, will keep an eye out for it next time I buy pads. Thanks @Devinda_Z

While K&N is proven to be less restrictive (more airflow), its also worth noting that they do let in more dust and particles. Also the increased airflow only results in a 3-5hp or so gain, which for regular road use is negligible, and is a gain you probably won't even notice (verify it yourself via google and youtube). So for everyday use on our roads K&N filters may not be the best choice and the extra money spent could be used else where to better effect (on better brake pads?  ) 

@Kavvz in worrying news their parent company might be in trouble  

https://news.bloomberglaw.com/bankruptcy-law/apc-automotive-gets-access-to-30-million-in-bankruptcy-funds

 

Also with regard to K&N, be mindful of the oil seeping through and fouling the airflow sensor but it only applies to the old filament type sensors

[Devinda_Z]

18 hours ago, Kavvz said:

Bought Brembo pads about a month or so pre-COVID lockdown (was super stoked to see them available for my car and since they were only slightly more expensive than the OEM pads I forked out the extra dough) but I haven't noticed a huge difference. Probably will just go back to OEM next time.

My hypothesis= These 'brembo' pads are as good as regular OEM pads, and by themselves are nothing special.

Don't expect these pads to make a huge difference when coupled with your stock calipers. Definately buy them if you can afford them, but no big deal either way.

Am I bitter? Nopes. Just wish I had fancy brembo multi-piston calipers as well  

@Kavvz it's that whole halo effect! I too ran Brembo's a while back and was very disappointed. People assume that Brembo's make everything better but like you said the caliper set up adds so much value and they also supply basic products as an entry level alternative to an aftermarket pad which I personally felt was lacking. These were made somewhere in eastern europe.

[Senalw]

Anybody in this forum faced issue with wet timing belt in fk6? 

I heard that some of fk6 owners had to face issues like blocking engine oil filters and damaging internal parts of the engine because of this wet timing belt design in fk6. 

This may happen because, most of us not using manufacturer recommended engine oil. 

If someone know where to buy honda 0w20 type 2.0 engine oil, please recommend me a place. 

Thanks!

Edited June 24, 2020 by Senalw

[GWX777]

6 minutes ago, Senalw said:

Anybody in this forum faced issue with wet timing belt in fk6? 

I heard that some of fk6 owners had to face issues like blocking engine oil filters and damaging internal parts of the engine because of this wet timing belt design in fk6. 

This may happen because, most of us not using manufacturer recommended engine oil. 

If someone know where to buy honda type 2.0 engine oil, please recommend me a place. 

Thanks!

Honda recommends to use a commercially available 0W-30 oil if Honda Type 2.0 engine oil is not available. Check your owners manual (book) for exact details as online PDFs are more generic.
also use the engine oil with ACEA specifications as well in addition to the recommended viscocity.

[Senalw]

8 minutes ago, GWX777 said:

Honda recommends to use a commercially available 0W-30 oil if Honda Type 2.0 engine oil is not available. Check your owners manual (book) for exact details as online PDFs are more generic.
also use the engine oil with ACEA specifications as well in addition to the recommended viscocity.

Currently using mobil 0w30 but its ACEA is A1/B1 and manufacturer recommend ACEA specification is A5/B5. From next time i'll try to find an oil with A5/B5 spec. 

[tbird]

17 hours ago, Senalw said:

Currently using mobil 0w30 but its ACEA is A1/B1 and manufacturer recommend ACEA specification is A5/B5. From next time i'll try to find an oil with A5/B5 spec. 

I also have a Ford with wet timing belt and recommended is ACEA A5/B5 similar to FK6. So agents use Castrol Edge Pro or Castrol Magnatec Professional, both are ACEA A5/B5 certified

[Devinda_Z]

3 hours ago, tbird said:

I also have a Ford with wet timing belt and recommended is ACEA A5/B5 similar to FK6. So agents use Castrol Edge Pro or Castrol Magnatec Professional, both are ACEA A5/B5 certified

@tbird doesn't Stafford now have the MOTUL agency? Haven't they got a suitable option from MOTUL for this kind of application or are they still limited to Motorcycle oil?

[GWX777]

5 hours ago, tbird said:

I also have a Ford with wet timing belt and recommended is ACEA A5/B5 similar to FK6. So agents use Castrol Edge Pro or Castrol Magnatec Professional, both are ACEA A5/B5 certified

ACEA spec differs from Civics with a GPF and without a GPF. Mine has a GPF hence I should use an oil which has ACEA C2 conformity. If C2 is not available I can use C3 but it’ll have a slightly less fuel efficiency as C2.

It’s stated as attached on the oil cap in mine.

[Senalw]

Honda civic FK6 came up with P10A2 three cylinder engine which includes quite new innovations done by honda. 

Read this article if you're interested.

https://web.archive.org/web/20190613083305/https://autotechreview.com/technology/new-1-l-three-cylinder-gasoline-engine-from-honda

Thanks!